I am not Italian. My daughter reminds me of this regularly. Why? Because I have long been convinced that some part of me, somewhere down the line had to be. I talk with my hands, I love to make Italian food and wine, I love Italian culture, I love Italians, and I feel a deep connection with the Mediterranean country every time I visit. Now, I imagine I am not alone in this, it’s hard not to fall in love with all things Italian, but my family likes to tease me that I’ve taken this to a level of delusion. Although I do suspect there’s a modicum of truth in their playful jabs, and when I bust out words in an Italian accent, I suppose their eyerolls are justified.
For a brief moment in time I considered myself vindicated when my mom’s ancestry DNA result came back with a small percentage of an Italian lineage; however, that elation was short-lived when “corrected” results were sent and did not include a single thread of Italian DNA. I’m still in the denial phase of that grief and hanging on to those first results having more truth than the latter. Wishful thinking or delusion? I suppose I don’t really care as the only way it “hurts” my family is in the excessive amount of carb-laden calories at the holidays, of which no one complains. I don’t hear anyone whining about the copious amount of Italian wine that gets poured either. In fact, here are a few poured to much acclaim recently….Salute (said in an accent)!
In My Glass
2019 Donnafugata Fragore Etna Rosso DOC - Just think of it - the crunchy fruits, savory umami of forest floor and brushy herbs, the volcanic minerality with that mouthwatering acidity cutting through the cheesy goodness and baked layers of mushrooms, spinach, and fresh made pasta…specifically the Etna Rosso Fragore from Donnafugata alongside a homemade mushroom and spinach lasagna. From a family-owned winery synonymous with expressing the essence of Sicily, this wine, and pairing, is an eruption of flavor. A true sensory adventure. Explosive. $90
NVLini910 Labrusca Lambrusco Rosso - This zesty sparkler was fruity, dry (aka not “Reunite” read below for more on that reference), and popping with red and black berry flavors. It’s predominantly from the Salamino grape with a bit of Ancellotta and made via the Charmat method (2nd fermentation happens in the tank). The wine ages on the lees until winemaker Fabio Lini deems it ready, giving it a touch of a flaky biscuit note interwoven with all that fruit. It’s lower in alcohol (only 11%), which also made it a delight on a 90+ degree September evening. But don’t worry, it’s equally as satisfying in fall’s more normal temperatures too. Pizza night. $16
2014 Barboursville Vineyards Virginia Cabernet Franc Reserve - Okay, so this one is made in the USA, but Barboursville Vineyards is owned by the northern Italian Zonin family, which has been making wine for seven generations since 1821. So, in my book it counts as Italian. Plus, it’s just damn good. And frankly unreal - a 2014 Cabernet Franc from Virginia, and it still boasts structure, acidity, red fruit and bell pepper alongside minerality, earth, and a touch of sweet tobacco?! Now I might be flabbergasted if I didn’t know that Barboursville put out some amazing wines, but I have to admit, I was still surprised at the balance and complexity of this Cab Franc 10 years in. It’s a crooner. Unfortunately, the 2014 isn’t available online, but perhaps if you visit in person (highly recommended), they might still have some back vintages in their library. Frank Sinatra. $25 (for the 2022)
In the Spotlight
Winery in the Spotlight
In the northern area of Montalcino, which sits in the south-central part of Tuscany, Italy, is the 21-hectare estate of Tenuta Pinino. Nestled in a natural amphitheater in the hillsides of Montosoli, the Tenuta Pinino estate was built in 1874 by Tito Costanti. In 1950, the estate was one of the first inscribed into the Brunello Winemakers Register, and in 2024 the estate winery was acquired by Il Borro, a Ferragamo family business.
The 21-hectare property is largely planted to vine with 16.24 total hectares of Sangiovese grapes - 7.67 hectares for Brunello, 5.42 hectares for Rosso di Montalcino, and 3.15 hectares for Sant’Antimo Sangiovese. Pinino’s vineyards are planted in two different areas, each with its specific terroir. The vines around the ancestral home of Pinino and within the amphitheater are south-facing with well-structured soils comprised predominantly of galestro (a rocky soil of schist and clay). The soil combined with aspect and local climate lends to the production of full-bodied wines with notable acidity, elegance, and pronounced fruit flavor. The vineyards in Canchi, located to the northeast are southeast facing with ancient soils rich in galestro, alberese (a compact clay and limestone), and tuff (a volcanic soil), alongside looser sandy and clay soils. The particularly mild climate of Canchi allows for a slow and progressive ripening of the grapes.
Tenuta Pinino’s vineyard management is key for the healthy and optimal growth of the grapes at lower yields and their careful and rigorous selection at harvest. Only the best grapes make it to the winery and once there, modern winemaking techniques are used to enhance the traditional methods ensuring the highest quality. And as for those wines, you’ll find the Brunello di Montalcino, the Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Pinino DOCG, the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG (only in exceptional vintages), as well as an entry-level wine that should not be overlooked, the Rosso di Montalcino.
Region in the Spotlight
Tuscany has long been romanticized as Italy’s quintessential dreamscape for wine lovers, and for good reason. The hilly terrain laden with vineyards, olive groves, cypress trees, and both rustic and luxurious wine estates not only looks like paradise, but tastes like it too. From Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, to Bolgheri and Brunello, the wines are as delicious as they are renowned, and when paired with the local cuisine, well, it’s damn near perfection, and a lot to digest. So today, let’s focus on one particular denomination, and my favorite, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG.
Montalcino is a medieval village about 25 miles south of Siena and 70 miles south of Florence. The area’s climate and elevation are the most notable factors for its DOCG* status. Vineyards in Montalcino are planted in varied soils of galestro, alberese, and tuff at elevations up to 1,650 feet on the hills, slopes, and ridges that surround the village. The climate is warm and dry. In fact, Brunello is the most arid of all of Tuscany with an annual rainfall of only 28 inches (compared to 35 inches in central Chianti Classico). The region is also known for its consistent, cool maritime breezes that provide ventilation for the grapes and bring the temperatures down overnight (key to retaining the telltale acidity of Brunello).
How do these climate, soil, and elevations impact the grapes? Well, in Brunello, Sangiovese is known for achieving unmatched levels of elegance, power, complexity, and aging potential owing to the high acidity, notable tannins, and higher alcohol. As for the DOCG requirements, Brunello di Montalcino must be comprised entirely of Sangiovese and see a minimum aging of four years, two of which must be in oak. Riserva wines must see a minimum aging of five years, two of which must be in oak. Today, styles range from the more traditional with well-integrated oak and aging carried out in large oak casks (or botti), to the more modern styles with wines aged in 225-liter barrels (or barrique). “Traditional” Brunello tends to denote higher acidity and tannins with earthy, dried floral, wild cherry, and tobacco aromas and flavors. “Modern” Brunello tends to be fruitier, riper, and more plush with softer tannins, and notes of cherry, plums, licorice, and vanilla notes, making them more approachable to drink sooner.
Traditional or modern, I don’t know about you, but I’m now ready for a Brunello!
*Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, or DOCG, is a legal category established in Italy in 1963 for its highest quality wines. Where as a DOC controls the rules and regulations around the growing of the grapes and making of the wines, a DOCG also guarantees the quality of the wines which must undergo governmental panel tasting. There are currently 77 DOCG in Italy.
In Their Words (and a few of mine)
I first came to know of Ferragamo in a former life (aka my previous career in commercial real estate PR). A client of mine was constructing the Italian luxury goods retailer’s new Chicago location on Michigan Avenue. In brief, Salvatore Ferragamo S.p.A. is an Italian luxury goods company, headquartered in Florence, that specializes in shoes, leather goods, and ready-to-wear clothing for men and women. Fast forward nearly a decade, and I again came to know the Ferragamo name, this time not for fashion, but instead for wine. Il Borro Toscana has been owned by the Ferruccio Ferragamo family since 1993. The estate spans 1,100 hectares of organic farmland in the Valdarno Superiore basin of Tuscany, and in recent years I have had the distinct pleasure of enjoying three of their very memorable wines.
Il Borro is managed by Salvatore Ferragamo, son of Ferruccio (pictured together above), who has been responsible for significant growth of the viticulture and enology side of the family business. His focus has been both to reinforce and expand the family’s offerings in the premium wine category, but also to enhance its offerings and presence in the US wine markets. To that end, in July of this year, the company announced the acquisition of Tenuta Pinino in Montalcino, Italy. While the acquisition only expands the Ferragamo’s Tuscany vineyards by 25%, it will add 80,000 bottles of high-quality wine to the portfolio annually, including three Brunello di Montalcino DOCG labels.
When I heard the news, I was definitely intrigued. Not only do I love Il Borro wines, but Brunello happens to be my favorite Italian red wine style. And knowing a few Brunellos are now in the hands of the Ferragamos, I can hardly wait to taste their next vintage. In the meantime, I had the opportunity to virtually sit down with Salvatore to talk about the family’s plans, the wines, and of course, a little food, fashion, and life. In his words….
Kristy Wenz (KW): Ferragamo has been one of the most famous names in fashion for nearly 100 years. What led to the decision to make a foray into wine with Il Borro Toscana in 1993?
Salvatore Ferragamo (SF): My father and the family have always been passionate about agriculture, and when faced with the opportunity of purchasing Il Borro, we felt we could transform this property into a unique destination and experience for wine lovers and travelers alike. And in many ways, the attention to detail in our service at our hotel and restaurant, and in producing our wines, is not too far from the attention to detail we dedicate to fashion.
KW: Il Borro has been a very successful venture, and you have made significant investments towards sustainability throughout your ownership. What have you seen to be the most successful?
SF: Solar energy has been very successful. It produces very low cost energy that we sell to the grid, which also qualifies as a negative carbon footprint. It’s been a valuable communication tool when talking to our guests or marketing to travelers, many of whom are becoming more conscious of sustainable travel options. Additionally, our organic farming practices have been really successful in producing wines of more character and personality, as well as all the various farming products available in our restaurants and that are used in our dining experience.
KW: The newest acquisition of Tenuta Pinino represents the family’s first investment in Montalcino. What was it about this property that attracted your attention?
SF: Pinino is found on the north, northeast side of Montalcino and is producing some of the top wines from this region. In fact, we conducted the blind tastings of these wines to better understand how they compared with famous brands of the region and the results were very impressive, and definitely encouraged us to proceed to the acquisition.
KW: Do you have any changes planned for the management of the vineyards or in the cellar?
SF: We will, of course, collaborate with Il Borro’s winemakers and our consulting winemaker, but no real changes are planned.
KW: Brunello di Montalcino is one of the most well-known premium wine styles around the world, and is known for both its traditional and more modern expressions. How would you describe the Brunellos historically made by Pinino?
The Brunello from Pinino are very classical Brunello style wines - beautiful fruit structure, with cherry, dark chocolate, and orange peel notes. They have great balance and structure, and well-integrated tannins for a textured, rich finish.
KW: What similarities do you see between Il Borro and Pinino? And differences?
SF: The wines from Il Borro follow the concept of terroir driven production owing to the site’s diverse soil composition, which also allows us to produce more international grape wines for our Super Tuscans. Pinino only produces Sangiovese grapes for Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello wines.
KW: Do you plan to market these wines in the US market? And if so, how do you see them complementing your current US portfolio?
SF: Yes, we will sell the Brunella Pinino wines in the US alongside the Il Borro wines, creating interesting sales and marketing synergies and expanding our premium wine offerings.
KW: If you could personify the wines of Pinino, who would they be and what would they be wearing?
SF: I feel the wines from Pinino are more traditional and classic. So, I might think of Tom Hanks wearing a double breasted blue suit with no tie.
KW: What fashion accessory best pairs with Brunello di Montalcino?
SF: A red cashmere sweater.
KW: As you have expanded from fashion into wine, dining, and hospitality globally, what have been some of the biggest challenges? And most surprising sources of pleasure?
SF: One challenge we have faced over the years is to be recognized as a hotelier, a restauranteur, and as a wine producer. The Ferragamo name is often associated only with the world of fashion. But in other ways, this has been helpful in establishing the new brand under the name, Il Borro. It has been very rewarding to create a unique experience of Il Borro with the production of world class wines, unique hospitality in a 1000 year old village, and farm-to-table dining, all creating unique and authentic experiences with a strong sustainable approach.
KW: What are you most excited to be working on right now?
SF: In developing Pinino as well as sales and marketing efforts to establish this beautiful property as one of the more recognized brands in the Brunello area.
KW: Is there another wine region you’d eventually like to expand to if the opportunity arises?
SF: Yes, Bolgheri.
KW: Outside of Tuscany, what is your favorite wine region(s) in the world?
SF: Bordeaux and Burgundy.
KW: What’s the oldest wine you have in your library?
SF: Sassicaia 1982
KW: How do you balance family and professional life?
SF: I feel today we’re all incredibly busy - my wife and I with our jobs, me at Il Borro and my wife with the Café Odeon in Florence, and with our children at university. We do still enjoy our August holidays, where we spend two weeks together. This is a special family time for us all.
KW: What is your favorite Italian dish and pairing?
SF: Simple tomato sauce spaghetti with Rosso di Montalcino wine.
KW: What is your favorite American dish and which wine would you pair it with?
SF: 25-day dry aged Ribeye steak, with Il Borro Toscana wine.
KW: Describe one of your favorite wine moments.
SF: September with harvest. All the efforts and challenges of the season come to fruition.
KW: Name three things on your bucket list:
SF: Sailing around the world, learning to play a musical instrument, and learning to cook.
KW: What’s your favorite activity outside of work?
SF: Tennis.
KW: Tuscany is one of the most well-known wine regions of Italy, what’s a little known fact about the region or its wines?
SF: I feel the DOC and the DOCG may be challenging to comprehend, but it also provides you with incredible diversity and discoveries.
KW: Where can consumers in the US find your wines?
SF: Mainly on the on-premise in fine dining restaurants.
In the Know
The origin of Brunello is largely connected to Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, the first to bottle and give the red wine style its name in 1865. Ferruccio and his father, Clemente, had successfully isolated a superior clone of Sangiovese, the Sangiovesse Grosso - aka Brunello (or “little brown one”). Only four vintages of of the wine were declared in the first 57 years of production (1888, 1891, 1925, and 1945), adding to the exclusivity of the prized wine. By the 1960s there were 11 producers of Brunello and in 1968 the region gained a DOC status. It wasn’t until 1980, that Brunello di Montalcino, with its now 50+ producers, was designated as a DOCG. Today, there are more than 200 producers of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG.
Fun fact: Brunello and Lambrusco have a unique connection! In the 1960s, Brunello was largely known for its production of a sweet sparkling wine from Moscadello. American-owned Banfi bought up large amounts of land at the end of the 1970s to capitalize on the sweet fizz of Moscadello and add to their success with the sweet style of Lambrusco. The plan failed and most of the vines were regrafted to Sangiovese after which Banfi took Brunello to new heights of popularity. Interestingly, Banfi’s sweet "Reunite” Lambrusco continues to serve as the stereotypical Lambrusco in the minds of many Americans, thereby hampering sales of Emilia-Romagna’s red fizz in the states - much of which is not sweet today, but rather dry, and even complex.
In Living Color
I recently finished a novel, The Glassmaker by Tracy Chevalier, and while this isn’t a wine book, it is centered around Murano and Venice, Italy. It follows the life of a glass bead maker, Orsola Rosso from her childhood in 1486 into her 70s in 2020. That’s right, a 534-year span of time in which she and much of her family only age 60 or so years. The premise: Venice and its islands operate on a different space in time than those of us on “terrafirma.”
But more than that, it’s the story of, oftentimes, what can be competing priorities: love, passion, family, career, individual autonomy, and survival; and how life’s uncontrollable and unpredictable events can reshape those priorities in unexpected ways. It’s a fast-moving, eloquently written depiction of not only one’s emotions and choices, but also a vivid and captivating portrayal of the ever-enigmatic island city of Venice.
Having just returned from the city of bridges (many of which were surprisingly built by Austrians during their occupation of Venice), I can attest that time does indeed move differently on those cobblestone streets intersected by water, and I love how imaginatively Chevalier captures that very thing. If you’ve been captivated by Venice, or are curious and want a sense of its bewitching nature, I highly recommend this book. And as for a wine or two to match your reading sessions, might I suggest:
A Raboso from Venezia, a Friulano Collio DOC, an Asolo Prosecco DOCG, a Franciacorta Brut Nature, or a Schiava from Alto Adige. Or one of each over Venetian space and time.
Love this! I found myself reading in an Italian accent in my head - LOL
Hoping that time permits for us to get to Franciacorta next month!
Everyone is hyping Donnafugata right now. I have not had any of their wines, Etna Rosso is one of the 3 places in Italy I really enjoy wines from.