Issue number 25 and wine review number 100 today! Thank you for being here.
We are all familiar with silver and gold. Precious metals no one would ever compare or confuse. They have different values and different purposes. In other words, they are what they are, and again, both precious. (And I’m betting some of us now have the little ditty sung by Yukon Cornelius stuck in our heads.)
Well, since this is the 25th issue, it got me to thinking about silver. Sure it’s meant to be a gift for 25 years, but hey, 25 is 25 and I’m pretty excited about where this newsletter has gone (and is going). I believe in celebrating all the wins, which then also got me thinking about bubbles.
So, if Champagne is the gold standard of traditional method sparkling wine, and arguably the category as a whole; perhaps Prosecco is the silver standard. Again, both precious, but you’d never confuse the two. Different values, different purposes. And so this week, I’d like to dedicate this 25th issue to Asolo Prosecco DOCG. If you think you know Prosecco, guess again. And if you think you know Prosecco and don’t like Prosecco, let me attempt to change your mind. But first…
In My Glass
Christophe Mignon Champagne ADN de Foudre Meunier NV
Alright, so there was a Champagne in my glass this week, because Champagne. And because Christophe Mignon is a true steward of Meunier. Christophe is a 5th generation farmer with 6.3 hectares of vines spread among 30 parcels in the Vallée de Marne of France, which were planted by his great-grandparents. He practices biodynamics, phytotherapy (plant-based medicine), homeopathy, and geobiology (the science of exploring the interactions of the earth with the biosphere). The moon guides all actions in the vineyard and the cellar, and it has for 20 years. He’s scientific and philosophical, and utterly dedicated to harmony (even employing one person per hectare in his vineyards to ensure synergy between what’s happening above and below ground).
Now whether or not this makes a difference in the final wines, all I can say is that I have been emotionally and tangibly moved by every single expression of his Meuniers. Perhaps this one most of all. It was a moment of clarity. (And I first tasted it on a “root” day, so go figure.) The ADN Foudre initially delivers an almost feral expression, but immediately settles into an arresting elegance. This zero dosage sparkler denotes marzipan, chamomile, and hints of dried, spiced orchard fruits. It’s more savory than fruity with a distinctive minerality. Since this wine is raised holistically, my word for this one has to be: Obsidian. $95
2014 Remelluri Rioja Reserva (2015 available at link)
I’ve been on somewhat of a Spanish wine kick recently. They are the wines that I first fell in love with - even before Cabernet Franc (which does have its origins in Spain though!). This bottle of 2014 Reserva is a primarily Tempranillo with touches of Garnacha and Graciano. It was rounded, elegant, and somewhat chewy with notes of fresh red and black berries, earth, spice, and a touch of leather. Pair it with Spanish fair, sausage and rice, or even some summertime brisket. Or better yet, paella on the grill. The 2014 is drinking really well right now, so if you see it grab it and open it ASAP. 10. $53
Villa Sandi Vigna La Rivetta Prosecco Superiore di Valdobbiadene Cartizze DOCG
Although not an Asolo Prosecoo DOCG, this is another Prosecco DOCG worth your time, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG and in the case of this bottle, specifically from the Cartizze hill. What sets these Proseccos apart? Cartizze covers just 265 acres of vineyards and sits on some of the steepest hillsides in Valdobbiadene.
It has the perfect combination of a mild microclimate and ancient soils of moraine, sandstone, and clay. It’s also hand-harvested and the maximum yield per hectare of grapes is only 12 metric tons. In other words, these grapes have some concentration! And indeed, so does this Brut from Villa Sandi with its complex expression of acacia, apples and pears, citrus, and a clean, striking minerality. It’s delicate but complex. I’d even call it pretty, and it’s truly unforgettable - especially with a shrimp risotto. Acclivitous. $43
In the Spotlight
Wine Region of the Week - Asolo Prosecco DOCG
Asolo Prosecco lies in the Veneto wine region of northeastern Italy between the towns of Cornuda and Asolo in the Province of Treviso. Here the undulating hills formed by millennia of erosion, run northeast to southwest with peaks rising to 1,500-feet. Sitting at the foot of the Venetian Alps (and specifically Mount Grappa), with the Dolomites and Montello highlands rising in the distance and creating a climatic shelter to the northwest, Asolo Prosecco gently slopes southeast towards the Adriatic Sea, the Venetian Lagoon, and Venice, a mere 30 miles away. Note on the map below how the two DOCG regions of Asolo Prosecco and Conegliano Valdobbiadene sit on higher elevations at the base of, and separate from, the Venetian Alps with the Piave River separating the two regions.
Asolo Prosecco DOCG encompasses 18 municipalities including the ancient village of Asolo, which dates back to the Roman Empire when the town’s symbol the “Rocca,” a fortress atop Mount Ricco was built. In the 14th century, Asolo and the surrounding countryside, drew the wealthy Venetians who built their country homes in the region, many of which remain today either in full grandeur or more dilapidated states. Asolo and Asolo Prosecco (whose hillsides were taxed a third higher owing to their ability to produce outstanding wines) remained a part of the Venetian empire until Venice fell to Napolean in 1797. The region eventually moved under Austrian rule, where it remained for a century and was a crucial frontline in World War I.
Fortunately, the region is much more calm since and the Asolo wine consortium was established in 1985. A few years later, in 2009, the area of Asolo Prosecco received its DOCG status. Eighteen communes, including the village of Asolo, comprise the DOCG region with a population of 129,000 people. While only 6% of the region is planted to vine, there are 433 vine growers and 64 wineries, including three cooperatives. Asolo Prosecco produced 27.5 million bottles (2.25 million cases) in 2023, which was a 118% increase in production since 2018, and 830% since 2014. Exports of Asolo Prosecco sit at around 60% , the majority of which goes to the United States.
The best vineyard sites in Asolo Prosecco are found in the hills and mountains of the Dolomites, Mount Grappa, Colli Asolani, Monfumo, and Montello, and have a southern-facing aspect in well-draining soils of primarily limestone, clay, silex, and sedimentary rock. Montello is the exception, noted for its soils of red clay. The region is also interspersed with forests, orchards, olive trees, botanical herbs, and vegetable crops.
The climate in Asolo Prosecco is continental with a Mediterranean influence, notable by its a lower humidity in the hot summers, and little risk of frost in the moderate winters. These advantages are owed to the elevation and winds from both the Dolomites and the Adriatic Sea. Rainfall is typically spread throughout the year; although this year late spring/early summer saw a significant amount of rains. The region is also known for having a notable diurnal temperature swing, helping to preserve the acidity and freshness of the grapes.
As for those grapes, the majority planted are Glera as the wine made here is of course, Prosecco, a sparkling (spumante) style wine made in the Charmat method. There are around 5,500 acres of Glera grapes grown in Asolo, which must be grown to a yield of 5 tons per acre. In addition to Glera, you will also find plantings of native Venetian varities including Verdiso, Banchetta Trevigiana, Perera, and Glera Lunga, as well as a few international varieties including Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It should also be noted, no new plantings of vines are permitted in Asolo Prosecco.
For the production of Asolo Prosecco DOCG, a minimum of 85% of Glera grapes must be used, and in order for a wine to be labeled Superiore, it must achieve a minimum of 11% alcohol by volume. That said, you will find a range of styles of Asolo Prosecco DOCG from the sweetest, Extra Dry, to the driest Sui Lieviti/Col Fondo. Extra Dry accounts for the majority of production at 68%; however, as more wine drinkers are trending toward the drier styles, there has been an uptick in the production of the Brut and Extra Brut styles. In fact, Asolo Prosecco was the first Prosecco area where an Extra Brut style was produced. And depending on the style, you’ll find a range of aromatics and flavors in Asolo Prosecco including subtle vegetal notes and delicate expressions of citrus, apples, white flowers, and honey. The wines are often well-balanced with the notable acidity being well-integrated, and the finish often long and dry. It’s also not uncommon to denote salinity in Asolo Prosecco as well as herbs including thyme, saffron, basil, fennel, sage, and minerality.
(Note: Although rosé Prosecco was approved for production in 2021, it is currently not sanctioned in Asolo Prosecco DOCG.)
Wineries of the Week
I will go into several of the wineries mentioned below in greater detail and on a more individual level in upcoming newsletters. For now, however, I want to share my favorite wines from last month’s explorations in Asolo Prosecco DOCG. I tasted numerous Proseccos (and several red wines from Montello Asolo), and as is to be expected anywhere you taste a wide range of wines, there was a mix of quality levels as well as a mix of those suited to my palate. That said, I was seriously impressed and had a difficult time narrowing down my selections, so here are my seven favorites.
Bele Casel
2021 Bele Casel Col Fondo - Made in the traditional method, where the secondary fermentation creates the effervescence within the bottle, this Asolo Prosecco was “complex AF.” In fact, you’ll find those exact words scribbled in my notebook next to multiple asterisks and the words, “soooo good,” because I was temporarily at a loss for words as I took this wine in. It was herbal, mineral, saline with a core of yellow orchard fruits, soft bubbles and a lifted, lengthy finish. It had a delicacy despite its intensity and was more a frizzante style, closer to a still wine than a spumante. It was mind-bendingly balanced. It’s one of those wines that demands your attention and brings you into that precise moment, much like the 2009 of the same wine we tasted next to it. The ‘09 while showing its age in color and nuttiness, retained that yellow orchard fruit, elevated acidity and was even a touch more briny. I could go on because I’ve since found my words and have many for these wines, but I’ll leave at this: Mind-bending.
2019 Bele Casel Vecchia Uve - Now this one is made in the typical Prosecco method via tank, but again, there is nothing typical about this Bele Casel. The Vecchia spent 18 months in tank and another seven to eight in bottle before release. For Prosecco, that’s very unusual, but good God did it payoff. Perhaps it was the very steep walk up the heroic rows of the vineyard moments before that made me thirsty, but again, I found myself scribbling - “Excellent,” and “Incredible.” This Prosecco was popping! The acidity was electric, alive even. Another complex wine, this one showcased notes of white flowers, herbs, apple, and toast. But the note that dominated for me - a clean, mouthwatering chalkiness that drove you back for more. This one left me longing. Obsessive.
Bresolin
"Di Fondo" Col Fondo Agricolo Colli Trevigiani - I think the strongest statement I can make about this organically-farmed wine: This one came home with me. Another Col Fondo where the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle, this Prosecco showcased the more savory side of Glera with notes of salinity, minerals, white flowers, woody herbs, yellow apples, and both fresh and pithy citrus. It was a pleasant and enjoyable experience as it passed my lips. It was gentle, expressive, and almost comforting. It was as if they had bottled up an easy, sunny Sunday morning. Contentment.
"Benny" Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Brut - If Di Fondo is the one I took home, Benny is the one I want to take out for dinner. Made in an Extra Brut style with only 4g/L dosage, this one captured the essence of Asolo Prosecco for me. It was as fragrant as the hills on which the grapes are grown with florals and aromatic herbs. The palate, despite the notable citrus, apple, and tropical fruit notes, presents with more of a savory, herbal tone making it a perfect pairing for a seafood meal, roast pork and pork tenderloin, or if you’re not super hungry, an easy charcuterie board. If you want to know what Asolo Prosecco is - this is it. Embodiment.
Giusti
2022 Giusti Wine Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Brut by Graziana - Where’s the zero dosage fans? And not to worry, if you often find the zero dosage style too bracingly acidic, this is not the case here. This is one helluva balanced beauty with the intoxicating aromatics of a citrus orchard nearing harvest. It’s fresh, juicy, with a salinity that runs through bringing forth even more fruits, toastiness, and minerals. It’s an attention grabber. Even the elegant bottle, emblematic of the rolling hills and intentionally similar design of the winery itself, is a showpiece. This is the one to bring to the party, share with friends, or bust out for the holidays. Not that you can’t enjoy it at home as well, but this is a festive celebration, and one that will outshine all the other Proseccos on the table. A-Lister.
Martignano-Vignaioli
Martignano-Vignaioli NV Asolo Prosecco Extra Brut - This one is a palatial Venetian garden with whisps of wisteria, jasmine, fennel, saffron, and citrus blossom. The palate is equally as luxurious with fresh citrus, almond skin, minerals and salinity. Hailing form silex soils, this is a crisp and elegant Asolo Prosecco that evokes the grandeur of 14th century Venice. It’s lush and colorful with a subtle undertone of evocativeness. This is anything but ubiquitous and I’d be happy to pour this all spring and summer long while dancing in a flowy white cotton gown in my (imagined) garden. Alright, maybe I’m not really doing that. Or am I? Fanciful.
Leterre
2023 Leterre Asolo Prosecco Superiore Millesimato Dry - As I mentioned, and you’ve probably inferred if you’ve been following along, I’m more a fan of dry wines. I occasionally dip into sweeter styles, particularly at the holidays, but they’re just not suited for my palate. And that extends to desserts and sweets in general. Now, that said, this Dry Lettere Asolo Prosecco was anything but dry; yet, I kept going back for more. It had a soft and delicate nose laced with florals and sweet strawberries. It was brightly acidulous which balanced with the sweetness of the wine. It even had a dry, somewhat saline, finish that made me want to go back for another refreshing sip. And what’s more, this was even delicious with a laidback familial dinner of fried vegetables, cheeses, and pizzas of myriad toppings. Let them eat cake, I’ll have another glass of this Leterre. Sweet relief.
If you’re curious to try any of these wines, hit me up and I’ll help you find them, or connect you to the importer.
Village of the Week - Asolo, Italy
“Where you taste the wines with the concept of elegance.”
Asolo is known as the “Pearl of Treviso” as well as “City of 100 Horizons” owing to the favorable climatic conditions and the mountainous terrain. Once home to 4,350 villas belonging to the wealthy residents of Venice, this romantic and picturesque town retains its Renaissance charm. From the ancient Roman ruins including an aqueduct, a Roman theater, and the town’s symbol, the “Rocca,” to the elaborate villas and cobble-stoned piazza, Asolo is a haven for international artists, poets, writers, and adventurers. It’s a diverse, almost cosmopolitan, community tucked away in the hills and winding streets of this charming little village in northeastern Italy. And, fun fact, Italy keeps a list of its +300-year-old trees, and several are found in Asolo.
In Depth
Glera was the name designated in 2009 for the “Prosecco grape.” Prior to that the grapes grown primarily in the Veneto region of Italy had been referred to as Prosecco. However, the European Union ratified a decision to rename the grape in order to protect the wines made in this region. In other words, any sparkling wine made from the Glera grape outside of the Prosecco region cannot be called Prosecco.
So let’s meet Glera.
Glera is a white, high-yielding grape that ripens late. It’s naturally high in acidity with fairly soft and neutral aromatics and flavors, making it ideal for sparkling wine. When grown in valleys and at high yields, like much of the region, it can be a more neutral and simple wine. However, it can also express depth, complexity, and elegance, particularly in higher elevations, specific soils, and when yields are more restricted. For instance, in Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG, Glera tends to express more floral characteristics, while in Asolo you’ll find more citrus and salinity. Overall, Glera is typically associated with orchard fruits, melon, white peaches, and floral notes and it must comprise a minimum of 85% of the finished wine. The grapes produce wines that are generally light-bodied, high in acidity, and that can range from low to medium levels of alcohol (8.5 percent is the minimum permitted ABV for Prosecco wines).
The other grapes of Asolo Prosecco DOCG (which can comprise up to 15% of a blend):
Verdiso - A white grape documented in the Treviso area of Italy since the 18th century, Verdiso is also productive grape variety with high levels of acidity. These grapes can have a distinctive mineral and slight bitter character with notes of fresh-bread, apple and citrus flavors, with occasional hints of green pepper and florals.
Bianchetta Trevigiana - A rare white grape cited in 16th century documents in the area, this is another high-yielding producer. It’s a thin-skinned grape noted for its delicate flavors of pear, green apple, kiwi, melon, minerality, and florals.
Perera - Also known as Pevarise, Perera is a white grape cited in the 18th century in the area. Again, a vigorous and a late ripening grape variety, Perera is known for contributing orchard fruit flavors and golden highlights to wines.
Glera lunga - An ancient cultivar recently identified as having its own dna, separate from that of Glera, Glera lunga was previously known as Prosecco lungo. And as you might expect, it’s high-yielding and high acidity. It expresses best at higher elevations and lends greenish highlights, green vegetable aromatics, structure, finesse, and sustained acidity to blends.
In the Moment
Scenes from Asolo Prosecco DOCG.
In My Opinion
Honestly? I will never think of Prosecco the same again. In the past, I’ve very much enjoyed the Proseccos of Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG and figured they were the best of Prosecco. And while I still very much revere those wines, the Proseccos of Asolo Prosecco DOCG are now at the top of my list. I’d say, like our discussion of silver and gold above, Conegliano Valdobbiadene and Asolo are of equal quality, but also vastly different. And for my palate, I have a slight preference for the more mineral and saline driven expressions found in Asolo Prosecco.
Now, while I do tend to strongly favor the Brut, Extra Brut and Col Fondo styles, I did find several Dry and Extra Dry versions in Asolo Prosecco that were elegant, balanced, and options I would happily repeat again, and that’s saying something for my typically dry-wines-preferred palate. These sweeter styles retained their minerality and salinity, and for the most part, never came off as cloying.
Additionally, I was struck by the strong tie between the community and the viticulture and wine. Asolo Prosecco is very much engrained in the fabric of the culture. It’s a legacy the community cherishes and wants to preserve. It’s a strong pride not only in the quality of the wines, but for the land on which its grown. And while you’re there, it’s impossible not to connect the land and villas with World War I, and the extensive loss of life that took place right in and on these hills. It’s something that as an American is difficult to appreciate, but these stories are woven into the fabric of the culture. Sustainability of these lands and providing for future generations are paramount. It’s more than a wine business here, this industry is deeply personal on both a communal and individual level. And this very thing is why I personally believe you can’t extract humanity and community from the terroir of wines. It matters. It makes a difference.
I encourage you to seek out the wines from Asolo Prosecco DOCG. If you prefer the drier styles of sparkling wines, like me, go for the Col Fondo, Extra Brut, and Brut expressions. But that being said, don’t close your mind to some of the sweeter styles. They have their place and in the hands of the right grower and maker, can be quite exceptional.
And if you happen to be traveling to Venice, I would also highly encourage a side trip to Asolo for a few days. Stay local (I recommend staying here or at an Airbnb in town) and visit the vineyards, trattorias and osterias in the surrounding communes. The terrain is rustic, rugged and the vineyards are even *heroic. And while you’re at it, tack on a few extra days for Bolzano and Conegliano Valdobbiadene. I really think you might be surprised by what you find.
*Heroic vineyards are vineyards grown in challenging conditions, such as on steep hill and mountain sides, remote volcanic islands, or even in war zones. In other words, places where the conditions make it difficult, or impossible to tend to the vines with traditional viticulture methods. This can include manual pruning, caring for the vines, and harvesting the grapes, or even getting equipment safely to the vineyards. In other words, it takes heroes to tend these vines!
In Context
DOCG
Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, or DOCG, is a legal category established in Italy in 1963 for its highest quality wines. Where as a DOC controls the rules and regulations around the growing of the grapes and making of the wines, a DOCG also guarantees the quality of the wines which must undergo governmental panel tasting. There are currently 77 DOCG in Italy, two of which are found in Prosecco - Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG and Asolo Prosecco DOCG.
Col Fondo and Sui Lieviti
Col fondo is an Italian term that translates to "with the bottom.” Sui Lieviti means “on lees.” Both terms refer to a type of traditional method sparkling wine where the secondary fermentation takes place in the bottle. However, in each of these styles, the wine is left on the lees for distribution. There is no disgorging or dosage. The result is a cloudy wine with sediment that makes for a more complex and savory style. Traditionally the subtle difference between the two styles is in the amount of pressure in the bottle. Col fondo has a more frizzante level of effervescence where as Sui Lieviti has a more intense Spumante level.
Refresher of dosage levels (find their pairings here):
Extra Brut – 0 to 6 grams per liter of sugar
Brut – 0 to 12 grams per liter of sugar
Extra Dry – 12 to 17 grams per liter of sugar
Dry – 17 to 32 grams per liter of sugar
In Gratitude
Thank you for reading, subscribing, sharing, and donating. I’m enjoying this immensely and hope you’re finding some interesting tidbits and delicious wines. I also love hearing from you, the questions you have, the wines you’ve found, the ways something you’ve read here has trickled into your life. It’s my favorite thing about wine - how it brings us all to a common table, where we don’t all have to agree, but we’re all happy to show up. It’s a connection across time, culture, oceans, and lands. If there’s anything you want to know or read about, please don’t hesitate to drop a line in my In Box. Cheers!
I definitely need to bookmark this for our Italy trip in October! Love, love LOVE Zero Dosage and am excited to try a different region that the norm! Sounds like I will have a few to choose from at the bottle shop!