Two Guys Walk Into a Bar
Wine Travel Beyond the Socials
Two guys walk into a bar. My bar. In my small town. They are not from here. Nor am I. And that is immediately evident. There’s a shared energy. A knowing. My husband and I had just paid our tab, but two minutes into a conversation about hockey and pizza with these random newcomers, and he says, “let’s get another glass.” I note that because it’s unusual. That’s my MO, not his. But, this is wine. Or maybe it’s a bar. Alcohol. But I think it’s wine. Wine is different. It’s not about people looking to get wasted — even if they may be (vacationers are in a different place). It’s about those shared moments, connection, a meeting around a table with something that brings you to a common place. We all drank different wines. What we drank was briefly mentioned, but then conversations turned to everything else: life, careers, politics (gasp!), healthcare (the horrors!), the once-upon-a-times. Could this happen at any random bar? Maybe. But there’s something different about wine - wine bars, wine people, wine connections. And it’s not a pretention. It’s generally a positive extroversion. It’s not an I’m here to be alone or wallow. It’s an I’m here to experience something. There is no pretense, no sadness, no looking to hook-up (in this scenario) - just a hey, you travel, you seem cool, we’re from out of town, and let’s have a moment. By and large that’s my experience with wine. It’s a wanting. A wanting to connect, to experience, to be in the moment - and there’s a shared place regardless of demographics. Maybe cocktail and beer people experience something similar. I don’t know. I’m not one of them. I’m a wine person. And this is my wine experience. The connections, the moments, the shared experiences, and more often than not, the resulting lifelong memories and connections. (And a shout-out to the two Québécois gents that changed the course of our Sunday evening - cheers!)
In My Glass
País, aka Listán Prieto in Spain, was all but abandoned in Chile in the 20th century. Fortunately, some vines were quietly preserved, which is the source for this rustic quaffer. From vines over 100 years old, this is an intensely aromatic wine with notes of wild flowers, red berries, and savory herbs. It’s light bodied with rippin’ acidity, 12.5% abv, dusty and supportive tannins, and a surprisingly long finish. It’s more provincial than refined, chillable, and incredibly food friendly. You won’t want to abandon this glass. Charmingly homey. $25
Barolo. Under $35. I don’t feel like there’s a need to say more. But, I will. If you love this variety and region, do not sit idly by. And don’t worry about the youthful vintage. This wine is approachable, refined, characteristic of its name, and will keep you from opening your more expensive Barolo in the cellar. G.D. Vajra is a long-standing, family producer with a philosophy built around finesse over power. These are wines of place. And their Albe is the place to start. Say less. $32
2025 Masseria Li Veli Askos Susumaniello Rosato Salento
I want this rosato swishing around my mouth all sunny season long. It’s electric. Satiating. Loud. Delicious. And it’s absolutely anything but boring. It’s practically the embodiment of Puglia. Made from the Susumaniello grape, of which only 125 acres are planted in all of Italy, this is one of Masseria Li Veli’s three unforgettable rosés. It’s made for wherever the day takes you - the park, the pool, the patio, a backyard BBQ, or a cozy chair overlooking the sunset. It doesn’t need an occasion, it makes one. Diversion. $30
2022 Delrieu-Ducleux La Joue Chenin Vin de France
Fresh, textured, and savory. This matchstick-y, flinty, jolt of electricity shocked my system in the best of ways. It leads with fruit flavor, enlivens with saline minerality, and finishes with a crave-worthy sensation of savory umami. It’s mouth-coating, long-lasting, and will transport you right to a natty wine bar in the Loire. At least it did me, and I have zero complaints. Sapid. $32
In the Spotlight
Wine Region of the Week
Arguably one of Japan’s oldest vine growing regions, the Yamanashi prefecture is certainly its largest with more than 30% of Japan’s wine grapes cultivated here. The region is situated southwest of Tokyo on the other side of Mt. Fuji. In fact, half of Mt. Fuji sits within the Yamanashi prefecture. The region has a basin climate, owing to the protection of the surrounding mountains. It is one of the warmest regions in Japan with the greatest amount of sunshine hours, and it has four distinct seasons. The majority of its annual rainfall, between 31 and 39 inches, falls during the growing season, making for more humid conditions. The majority of the region’s vineyards are planted around two rivers, the Kamanashi and Fuefuki, where the well-draining soils of sedimentary rock, gravel, granite, and andesite are advantageous to the vines. Elevations within the Yamanashi prefecture range from 820 to 3,200 feet with the average for most vineyards around 1,475 feet. It is believed vines were first cultivated in Yamanashi 1,000 years ago with winemaking taking hold around 130 years ago. The first official winemaking license was granted to Marufuji in 1890. Today, they are considered the oldest, continually operating family winery. Grapes grown in Yamanashi are predominately Koshu, Muscat Bailey A, Delaware, Merlot, and Chardonnay. In recent years, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot have also been showing well. Yamanashi is home to around 90 official wineries accounting for more than 110 brands.
Winery of the Week
Grace Wine is a fifth generation Japanese winery, originally founded as a cooperative in 1923. It was incorporated by third-generation Kazuo Misawa, in 1953 and renamed Grace Wine after the Greek goddesses the Kharites (aka the Graces), in 1957. The winery was one of the first to bottle their Koshu wine in 720ml bottles versus the standard 1.8L “farmer’s bottles.” They were also among the first to bring Japanese wine to international markets and have received multiple awards at the Decanter World Wine Awards. The winery is now led by fifth-generation Ayana Misawa who studied at the University of Bordeaux and trained in Bourgogne, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, and Argentina. Just as the previous generations did, Ayana focuses on the Koshu grape variety with an emphasis on single-vineyard expressions.
The family has 50 acres of vineyards within the Yamanashi prefecture, all farmed organically and regeneratively without the use of herbicides or chemical fertilizers. In the region of Katsunuma, the family has vineyards in the Toriibira and Hishiyama districts. Katsunuma is surrounded by high mountains and has a continental climate with plentiful sunshine and well-draining soils. The Toriibira district is a very small area on the south-western slopes of Mount Kashio at an altitude of around 1,475 feet with soils of gravel and clay. The Hishiyama district is the highest viticultural area in Katsunuma, situated between 1,640 and 1,960 feet with a complex topography of rivers, large granite rocks, and gravelly clay soils. Grace Wine also has vineyards in the Akeno region, which is protected from rain by the surrounding mountains and has the greatest amount of sunshine hours in Japan. Their Misawa Vineyard sits at 2,300 feet in soils of clay, volcanic ash, and chalk. The Koshu vineyards of the Foothills of Mt. Kayagatake, also within Akeno, are planted between 1,300 and 2,300 feet in volcanic, gravelly soils.
Varieties planted include: Koshu, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. Grace Wine produces around 20,000 cases of wine per year from four vineyard sites.
Although we did not have the opportunity to visit any of the Japanese wine regions on our recent holiday, I did bring home the 2024 Toriibira Vineyard Koshu from Grace Wine. After tasting and loving several Koshu wines throughout our travels, I was excited to bring one home to experience without the proverbial vacation blinders on and with foods I’m more accustomed to pairing wines with. The grapes for the Toriibira Vineyard Koshu were harvested in the second week of November from the best lots, carefully sorted, and fermented in neutral French oak. The wine matured in stainless prior to release. The aromas are rich and brimming with orchard fruit and spice, while the palate is clean, dry and laced with minerality. The Toriibira demonstrates power and elegance with a combination of intensity and rounded acidity. If I had to compare it, I’d say it’s most akin to Pinot Gris or Pinot Blanc. It lingers on the palate extensively and it was perhaps one of the best examples of Koshu we tasted - even outside of its cultural context. This Grace Wine confirmed my overall positive impression of Koshu and further lends to my belief that these wines deserve a spot on the global stage.
Restaurant of the Week
Julia is an intimate omakase owned and operated by a husband and wife team: she is the chef, he is the sommelier. This gem came recommended by a good friend that knew our first trip to Japan wasn’t for wine, but knows my predilection for fermented grape juice. It’s against my nature to travel to a place and not learn about their wine. I was assured, this was the place to be. Tokyo. High-end dining. Phenomenal food. A chic vibe. And Japanese wines. He was not wrong, and I couldn’t have been happier. Was it slightly above my “normal” place of being (both in terms of price point and “class”)? Yes. Especially with my family in tow. But we’ve often pushed our kids into experiences beyond what’s “normal,” and not only did they rise to the occasion with their curiosity and awe, but the team had a way of making the exceptional feel deserved. And when you have two big moments to celebrate - sometimes the splurge is necessary. That said, for 10-courses (with pairings), the price point was not out of bounds. Upon arrival, we were treated to an aperitif and appetizers in the first-floor hi-fi lounge before moving upstairs to the main dining room overlooking the open kitchen. The attention to detail, hospitality, quality, and inventiveness of the dishes, as combined with the thoughtfulness of the pairings, and the overall atmosphere went above and beyond what I could have imagined or hoped for. The hospitality was unpretentious, welcoming, but also exquisite and deftly executed.
The menu featured light, flavorful, and inventive Japanese dishes - we’re talking fresh cut fish with fruit, and local vegetables seamlessly interwoven with texture, flavor, and subtle nuance. Everything was thoughtfully and masterfully paired alongside Japanese wines or homemade juices - each equally complementary. My wine highlights were easily the Koshu — the sparkling orange Koshu and the more traditional expression — the Delaware orange, and the dessert wine from Merlot. The fact that I enjoyed two orange (skin-contact white) wines is telling of their quality. Unexpected and enjoyable.
Is Julia a traditional Japanese meal you need to experience? No. But is it uniquely cultural, wine-centric, and something unlike you’d experience in a westernized setting, absolutely. It’s worth every minute, every dollar, every bite, and every sip. The team at Julia brings a western-level of comfort to a distinctively eastern experience.
In Depth
Koshu is the best known and most revered indigenous grape variety of Japan. Growing in Japan for more than 1,000 years, you’ll find 90% of Koshu’s plantings within the Katsunuma area of the Yamanashi prefecture. It is likely a descendant of the vines carried along the Silk Road and has been found to carry DNA from Vitis vinifera as well as a wild Chinese grape species. It was the first Japanese grape to be recognized by the International Organization of Vine & Wine (OIV) and accounts for roughly 18.5% of the total wine grapes grown in Japan.
Koshu is distinctive for its pink skins, which are thick and bitter. It has high natural acidity and generally lower levels of sugar, which often result in wines with lower alcohol by volume. Koshu’s thick skins and loose bunches help protect the variety from humidity-born diseases. Koshu grapes are traditionally grown via the pergola trellising method, known locally as “tanashiki;” although some growers are experimenting with vertical shoot positioning (VSP) trellising systems. (Grace Wine was one of the first to successfully grow Koshu using VSP at their Misawa Vineyard.) In general, Koshu wines are a pale straw color with clean, delicate, fruity aromatics with overtones of orchard fruits, citrus, peach, and jasmine. Koshu is typically fresh, light to medium-bodied depending on the winemaking, and a good match for Japanese cuisine. You will find Koshu expressed in a variety of styles including sweet to dry, still and sparkling, and aged under flor*. Skin contact Koshu is gaining notice and popularity for its more subtle and less astringent qualities than many V. vinifera skin contact white wines. Koshu is mostly planted in Japan, but it is also being cultivated in California, Oregon, Germany, and Nepal.
*Flor is a film-forming yeast that develops on the surface of certain wines during aging. It creates a thick veil that protects the wine from over-oxidation while imparting distinct savory, nutty, and briny aromas and flavors.
In Living Color
Tokyo & Kyoto Wine Hot Spots
As I mentioned, my recent trip to Japan was not wine-centric, but wine is my way of life, and so, there was wine. The following are a few of the destinations we discovered: places for wine with wines of place.
First: Ginza Wine Bar G5. Their motto: No Wine, No Life. This is a wine-only destination. No beer, no cocktails. High-end wines by the glass or bottle near Ginza station. It has a “downtown” feel. High-rises. Glitz. The tony neighborhood. The quiet of Japan, but with humming conversations more familiar to a western ear. Ginza has an air of exclusivity, but in a way that says, “You belong here.” It’s open late and the menu equally welcomes those in the know and the curious.
MIDAIR. French cuisine and wine bar. While only a three-minute walk from the aforementioned Ginza Wine Bar, MIDAIR is exclusive. It’s a place you go knowingly and walk in knowing it. Is this a place I would frequent on the regular? Absolutely not. But is it worth a one-night splurge, you bet. This was our night of “go your own way.” After eight days together, everyone needed space, a nap, or stimulation. For me, it was wine with a view. A neighborhood spot that spoke to the culture, destination, and offered an hour’s respite. MIDAIR has all the feel of a private club. Upon walking in they said, “We only have wine.” Perfect. And the list - Burgundy and Bordeaux. No exceptions. No apologies. A glass of white and a glass of red, please. My window seat overlooking rainy downtown Tokyo gave me my city fix and a bird’s eye view. The service was perfectly attentive without being obtrusive, and the fact that I was alone, normal. It’s a business stopover. A place that rewards with quiet, luxury, and privacy. And yes, very good wine.
Now, we move to Kyoto. If I had to make a brash comparison - Tokyo is more New York while Kyoto is more Chicago. Kyoto is bustling but manageable, consuming, and adaptable to the mood. We spent five days exploring the sights, sounds, tastes, smells, and all-around vibe of Kyoto - and came to find three wine bars that more than delivered. First up, Rokka.
A quiet neighborhood bar with an unlikely double focus: Ayurveda and wine. Warm water in medieval goblets. Champagne. French and Spanish wines. Locally sourced cheeses. It shouldn't work as well as it does, but that's Rokka. An oasis of tranquility where the attention to aesthetics and taste prove that calm can pervade even the most bustling city.
I’m a Champagne loyalist and Rencontre in Kyoto is of the same ilk. It’s a Champagne-only bar. And specifically grower Champagne. It’s woman-owned, and carefully curated. These are wines that the owner has vetted. She knows the winemakers, their stories, the land, and what’s in the bottle. This isn’t about name, prestige, or marketing. She knows her shit and she’s sharing it with those willing to take a chance. It’s not inexpensive, but it is exquisite. It’s warm, cozy, intimate, and all about the best of Champagne.
Lastly, Wine Bar Musée is a small wine bar in Kyoto, just a three-minute walk from Shijo-Karasuma station. Located on the third-floor in an unassuming mid-city location that you have to work to find, Musée offers a stellar wine list - focusing mostly on Bourgogne. There are 15 rotating wines by the glass, alongside more than 200 different labels in the walk-in wine cellar. The Burgundian selections are both rare and/or stellar, but you can also find a top-end selection of options from the states, Spain, Australia, Italy, Australia, and more. It’s another intimate, quiet location overlooking a particularly soothing Zen garden. You can’t help but truly be in the moment with your glass. If you end up here, it’s for the wine. Period.
In the Know
Japan consists of four main islands divided into 47 prefectures. The main island - Honshu - is divided into five regions. A mountain chain runs through the center of each of the main islands with Mt. Fuji is the highest peak at 12,388 feet. Approximately 77% of Japan is mountainous with the majority of wine grapes grown in Yamanashi, Nagano, and Hokkaido. Globally, Japan is 42nd for grapevines grown with 43,560+ acres of vines (both table and wine grapes). Koshu is the most planted variety, with Muscat Bailey A being the only other grape currently used for fine wines of global recognition. There are currently more than 350 wineries in Japan, most of which are small-batch and family-owned.
In the Room Where It Happened
This week I attended the Hart Davis Hart Champagne Tasting in Portland. The line-up included both Grandes Marques and Grower Champagnes. A few of my takeaways:
The Grandes Marques are renowned for good reason - consistency in style and quality. That said, vintage will play a role and not every one of them rises to expectation (ex. the 2013 Dom Perignon did not speak to me).
Grower Champagne is an exceptional value for the quality.
Grower Champagnes typically have more vintage variation, but they can also have a “house-style.” For example, some winemakers will ferment in oak, others will not. Some may use partial or full malolactic fermentation to create a more rich style, while others will not. And dosage, while used for balancing acids, can also be partly owing to a winemaker’s preferred style.
Non-vintage is not to be overlooked, often offering better value, reliability, and immediate fruit-forward enjoyment. They are also often a representation of the house-style meaning there’s typically a high level of detail in crafting the blends to assure quality.
With some labels, you’re paying for marketing, prestige, and a name. Pricing is not always commensurate with quality. (Ex. NV Armand de Brignac, Blanc de Blancs which sells for $595)
Champagne is just damn delicious and as good as sparkling wines get — nothing else compares.
And my physical takeaways this year include:
NV A. Lamblot, Brut Nature, Mouvance 21
NV Pierre Peters, Cuvée de Reserve, Blanc de Blancs
NV Bérèche et Fils, Brut Reserve (Base vintage: 2022)
2012 Drappier, Grande Sendrée Brut
Others I would recommend: the 2016 Robert Moncuit Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru, Les Chetillons; the 2015 Billecart-Salmon, Le Rosé; the 2014 Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs; and the Krug, Grand Cuvée, 172nd Edition
In the Moment
Now, with the aforementioned case having just been made for Champagne…this domestic producer has consistently made me stop and take notice in a “holy shit” kind of way. They sit in my number one spot for Method Oregon sparkling wines, but also domestic sparkling wine overall, and they have for the last three years.
Arabilis.
Kenny and Allison McMahon’s venture stands alone in the uppermost echelon of Method Oregon sparkling wines. Yes, this is my opinion, and I’ll stand by it every time. Arabilis wines express a combination of terroir, expertise, passion, and remarkable quality. The detailed precision, the interwoven whispers of nuance, the notable balance struck between tension and delicacy — these wines are memorable. And this weekend, marked the unveiling of their newest releases, including their first sparkling rosé. More on those wines below, but first, I was able to catch up with Kenny for a few minutes to talk about a project they’ll be releasing this fall: the perpetuals.
While I look forward to the release of the perpetuals, I’m going to be enjoying the newest releases I picked up this weekend:
2020 “Sequence” Willamette Valley - Extra Brut - 60 months en tirage - 70/30 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir - Disgorged March 2026
2021 “Sequence” Willamette Valley - Extra Brut - 48 months en tirage - 64/36 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay - Disgorged March 2026
2022 Willamette Valley Rosé - Extra Brut - 36 months en tirage - 51/46/3 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay/Meunier - Disgorged March 2026
And because it has consistently been one of my favorites, I also picked up an extra bottle of the 2020 Columbia Gorge - Extra Brut - 70/30 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay - Disgorged 2025
Curious? You can shop for Arabilis wines here. Note that some of the sparkling wines are allocated for club members only.
In the Hopper
Let’s go to Italy! This week I’ll be returning to Campania and Umbria - each home to red wines that sit in my Top Five: Aglianico and Sagrantino.
This is the first of my trips to span the next eight weeks and will include in-depth studies, vineyard and winery visits, and tastings of the current vintages. I previously visited the Taurasi region of Campania in December 2024, but this visit to attend Campania Stories, will provide a more diverse education into the overall region, its many producers, and the various native varieties and wines including Fiano, Greco di Tufo, Falanghina, and of course, Aglianico.
The latter half of the trip to Umbria marks my return to AMontefalco, which you can read about here. I’m excited to compare last year’s notes with my impressions of the new vintages, as well as both discovering and revisiting favorite producers.
As always, if you have any questions or would like me to dive into something particular from either region, send me a note.