I’ve traveled a lot. Not as much as some, but more than many. Every time I visit, stay, and leave a new hotel, apartment, home, city, town, or region, having moved within new spaces, the same thoughts cross my mind. They are hard to put into words and somewhat existential.
I have these thoughts as I arrive to new places, while wandering, while experiencing, but primarily as I pack up to leave. I gather my things, return the space to the condition (or better) in which I found it - sheets/towels are gathered up and placed in a pile or in the washing machine, I sweep/vacuum, I move furniture to its original placement, wipe all the surfaces, remove all my trash/recyclables, and of course check under beds, in drawers, and around the space for anything left unpacked or overlooked and almost forgotten. It looks as though I was never there. But I very much was.
And as I look back before closing that door one last time, I think. I think about the movements made in that new space by me, by my family or friends, the thoughts had, conversations exchanged, the memories created, the people met, the emotions and energies felt, and more often than not the connection or two formed. I think about the confluence of so many things that led to those specific experiences, and how I may never be back to those spaces, cities, people, or regions again. These impressionable (and not) moments are past and gone, and will never be again.
I think about how those memories are packed up and carried with me, and will live with me in various intensities and clarities, change me, or not. But also, how there are pieces of me, my energy, the collective energies of the people that gathered there in those moments, that remain within those spaces. The invisible traces left behind. I think about the traces left before me, by others that have passed through those spaces too, and the many traces yet to come. There’s a sadness with it. A grief. But also satisfaction, contentment, pride even, knowing that in these places, I lived. I observed, experienced, felt, and created. I wrote permanent pages of a story. I was there. Perhaps in some of those same spaces, some of you were too.
And wines, to me, are much the same. A wine’s invisible traces and history become part of our existence and shared moments. It’s a beautiful confluence.
Here’s a few of the wines that wove their way into my story this week:
In My Glass
2022 Jean-Luc Colombo “Les Abeilles”
I’m a long-time fan of the wines of Jean-Luc Colombo. They are consistently solid quality-price-ratio wines and have yet to disappoint. A white wine blend of Clairette and Roussanne, this particular wine is named for the bees that inhabit the vineyards in the southern Rhône Valley where this Côtes du Rhône is produced. Colony Collapse Disorder is threatening these honey bees and so Jean-Luc Colombo along with their importer, Taub Family Imports, have developed the Bee Helpful Program. With every bottle of “Les Abeilles” Côte du Rhône Blanc or Rouge purchased, a donation is made to the UC Davis Department of Entomology in support of their research to help restore healthy honey bee colonies. And aside from that, this wine is fresh, round, dry, and absolutely pleasing on a summer’s evening. Don’t miss out and bee helfpul. Buzzworthy. $18
2021 Can Sumoi Garnatxa-Sumoll
Coming in with a last minute review of this juicy banger. I shared this with my husband over dinner last night at Pinch in Mcminnville (a must stop if you’re in Willamette Valley). Neither of us had ever had Sumoll, a rustic black grape found in the Penedès region of Spain, but given that it was blended with some Garnacha, we were absolutely game. After one sip in, I knew we were winning! This was a lighter bodied, lower alcohol (13%), crunchy, tooty-fruity quaffer that’s sure to please anyone that loves a good chillable red. Chillin’. $25
2022 Walter Scott “La Combe Verte”
I love Oregon Chardonnay. I love the flinty minerality and electric acidity they can express. And this is hands-down one of my favorite examples of the style. If I see this wine, I grab it. If you see it, grab it - fast. The husband and wife team at Walter Scott don’t produce much, aren’t open to the public for tastings, and those in the know grab it off the shelves and for allocations in the blink of an eye. And believe me, you’re not going to find another wine of this quality for under $40 here in the Valley. I don’t know how they do it, but I’m ever grateful they do. So many of the region’s Chardonnays are out of my every day wine price point - and frankly, only a handful of those reach this level of quality (at least for my palate). Invigorating. $35
2020 Dr. Konstantin Frank Brut
If you haven’t tried a traditional method sparkling wine from the Finger Lakes of New York yet, now is the time. With 4th of July on the way, a domestic sparkler from one of the region’s OG wineries and the first to produce Champagne-method bubbly with vinifera grapes, Dr. Konstantin Frank, is a must. Plus this Independence Day marks what would have been the good doctor’s 125th birthday!! The Finger Lakes' climate and soil type are ideal for producing high-quality traditional method sparkling wines, with the balance of acid and sugars that rivals the best of the style. This 2020 Brut aged in their underground cellars is a benchmark example of Finger Lakes sparkling wines and the beauties the 3rd and 4th generations of the Frank family put out. Bruce Springsteen. $34
In the Spotlight
Winery of the Week
Take a walk with me through the rugged and ever-vivid vineyards of La Rioja Alta S.A. group’s Bodega Áster in Ribera del Duero, from the younger trellised plots to the old bush vines, all planted in the sedimentary clay and silt loam soils strewn with areas of ancient marine sediment and alluvial rocks.
In the late 1980s, La Rioja Alta S.A. (of Rioja wine fame) began soil studies and weather analysis of many different subzones, including sites in the Ribera del Duero region of Spain. This site, sitting at 2600 feet in the village of Anguis (Burgos) was ultimately selected, and in 1991 they planted 216 acres of Tinto de País (aka Tempranillo).
Named for a Spanish flower, Bodega Áster sold the grapes for the first several years until their quality could be verified, and in 2000 La Rioja Alta S.A. released their first vintage under the Bodega Áster label. Today the state of the art facility still practices many of the traditional winemaking methods - a hallmark of La Rioja Alta S.A. - and produces three single varietal wines: Áster, Finca El Otero, and new to the market, El Espino.
The Tempranillo grapes for these three wines are hand-picked and optically sorted before being loaded into the fermenters on the main level by gravity flow. After fermentation, the wines are then moved again by gravity for pressing below ground after which the wine makes its way to the extensive barrel program. This all Tempranillo house ages the wines in French oak for various times depending on which label the wine is destined for, and like La Rioja Alta’s flagship winery (in Rioja), the wines here are also racked by candlelight. And as for those three wines…
Áster
First up is the namesake label, Áster. This Tempranillo wine comes from the Fuentecojo, La Cueva, and Otero Joven vineyards surrounding the winery in Burgos. The grapes for this wine were hand-selected, picked, sorted, destemmed and crushed, before their fermentation at which point the wine was pressed and moved to French oak barrels (75% new) where it aged for a total of 16 months.
Áster has an intense color. But it also has a more subtle and serious expression. It’s powerful but without the need to assert dominance, making its bold statement with pure elegance. Dark berries, mocha, baking spices, and licorice come together here with the wine’s fresh acidity and muscular tannins. And while you might think of a wine of this style as perfect in the autumn or winter months, it totally had me craving our summer paella on the grill. It’s a wine I’d be happy to sip year-round.
Finca El Otero
Finca El Otero is a classic and single-vineyard wine from this Ribera del Duero estate. The El Otero vineyard is a low-fertile plot on clay-loam at 850 meters above sea level. The grapes are hand-picked and optically sorted with the wine seeing 16 months in French oak after which the best barrels are selected for the single-vineyard bottling.
This is a classic - deeply colored, full-bodied with firm tannins and a lively acidity to balance it all together. Blackberries and currants, with tobacco leaf, warm spices, vanilla, earth, and a mineral undertone round out the complex palate. This is delicious now with charcuterie, grilled meats, stews, or heavier rice dishes, and will also age quite well in my opinion.
El Espino
The third wine, the newest in the line-up, Áster El Espino, represents a more modern take on Ribera del Duero. Coming from three plots of various slopes, soils, and aspects, El Espino is meant to express “elegance, power and finesse with terroir and distinction.” Half of the grapes undergo malolactic fermentation in stainless while the other half does so in French oak before the wine is finished all together in 20% new French oak for 12 months.
Now this beauty is for the rich and opulent, full-bodied red wine lover. It’s generous, fresh, fleshy, and remarkably lengthy. Dark berries with some blueberries, coffee, licorice, vanilla, and mocha. It’s a big red, ready to drink now and would be perfect next to a fire in the coming seasons. And it’s not half bad with s’mores either!
In the Moment
The 7th annual “National Prosecco Week” kicks-off tomorrow, Monday, June 24th to celebrate the number one sparkling wine in the United States. Yes, that’s Prosecco. It’s a combination of price point, availability, and crowd-pleasing nature that lands this Charmat* method sparkler in such an envious position. Not sure if you’ve had it? Well, if you’ve ever had a sparkling wine at an event, wedding, by the glass, at an airport lounge, or as a welcome wine, chances are it was Prosecco. So, what differentiates Prosecco from other sparkling wines? Several things. And those things make it completely different from Champagne and traditional method sparkling wines.
Prosecco comes to us from northeast Italy and primarily from two classified regions, Prosecco DOC and Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (additional classifications include Prosecco DOC Treviso and Asolo Prosecco DOCG). Prosecco is typically produced from the Glera grape, with varying percentages of other local and international varieties and is produced via the tank method, or Charmat method, by which the second fermentation takes place in a pressurized tank. The tank method helps to preserve the fresh fruit aromas and flavors of the wine, while also allowing for production in greater quantities and at greater efficiencies.
Prosecco DOC covers a wide range of the Veneto and Friuli areas of Northern Italy, whereas the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG wines must be grown between the two towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. The same can be said of Prosecco DOC Treviso and Asolo Prosecco DOCG, the grapes for these sparklers must come from specific regions within Treviso. And there’s rosé too (it was approved for production as a DOC wine by the Italian government in 2020)! Prosecco DOC rosé must be made from Glera and Pinot Noir grapes. And of those grapes, only 10-15% of Pinot Noir is allowed. You’ll also only find certain styles, all less than 17 grams/liter dosage. No “dry” or “demi-sec” styles are permitted. Additionally, the wine must be made via Charmat method and be released only after January 1st, and having spent at least 60 days in the tanks. The Prosecco DOC rosé must also be vintage designated with at least 85% of the fruit coming from the stated year.
So, with the vast array of Prosecco options available for purchase, knowing what to look for will help in selecting the right wine for the occasion. When it comes to Superiore DOCG, DOC Treviso, or Asolo Prosecco DOCG, the first thing to look for are the identifiers on the bottle’s label. Here you’ll want to look for the name of the region and the government neck strip indicating its authenticity and DOC or DOCG quality status.
Next, you’ll want to note the style of Prosecco, and this is often where people get confused. The terms Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Dry and Dry indicate the level of sugar and resulting sweetness in the wine – and they may not be what you think. Here’s a quick run-down with a few suggested pairings for each:
• Extra Brut – 0 to 6 grams per liter of sugar – this is the driest style of Prosecco available that highlights bright fruit flavors on a crisp, intense delivery to the palate. Consider serving this style with seafood and mushroom pastas or risottos.
• Brut – 0 to 12 grams per liter of sugar – this style is identified by its citrusy aromas with vibrancy in the mouth and clean finish. Serve Brut Prosecco with fish, vegetables, pasta or rice dishes and throughout an entire meal.
• Extra Dry – 12 to 17 grams per liter of sugar – here you’ll find apple, pear and citrus flavors with soft floral notes. The wine will be sweeter and more rounded, but also balanced by a lively acidity. This style makes for a pleasant aperitif or can be served with soups, pastas with delicate sauces, or fresh cheeses.
• Dry – 17 to 32 grams per liter of sugar – this is your sweeter style of Prosecco with fruity and floral notes. You’ll find white peaches, apples and tanginess on the palate. The sweetness can be offset by serving it at colder temperatures. This style is idea for spicy Asian dishes, fusion cuisine or dry pastries.
Finally, when serving your Prosecco, it is best to do so within the same year as harvest to preserve the intended fresh, fruit flavors (there are of course exceptions to this rule). Serve the wine between 32 to 36 degrees Fahrenheit and if you’ve selected a DOCG, try drinking it from a larger tulip shaped glass rather than a typical flute. The more open mouth of the glass will help to enhance the fresh aromas. And lastly, remember, not all Proseccos are created the same, nor are they meant to drink like Champagne. These crisp, zesty sparkling wines are intended for presenting the freshness of the fruits and in the case of Superiore DOCG, regional designates, and vintage bottlings, also the culture of wine preserved in the region for centuries.
So for this 7th annual National Prosecco week, I encourage you to go beyond the grocery store bottles and taste around the Veneto. Here are a few Prosecco producers I recommend: Bellenda, Ca’ Furlan, Valdo, Bottega, Bele Casel, La Trodera Brunei, La Vigna de Sarah, Tenuta degli Ultimi, Villa Sandi, Loredan Gasparini, Le Spinee, and Sommariva.
*In the Charmat method, the second fermentation - which creates the effervescence in a sparkling wine - takes place when yeast and sugar is added to the base wine held in bulk in a pressurized tank (versus the traditional method in which this happens in the bottle). The yeast consumes the sugar and emits carbon dioxide creating the bubbles. The wine is then clarified, dosage is added (or not) and the now sparkling wine is bottled under counter pressure (sometimes on an as-needed basis as determined by market demand).
While this method is often derided in wine circles as being inferior to the traditional method, it has its place. First, it is far more economical and less labor intensive. But for consumer purposes, it’s also not meant to create Champagne-style wines with yeasty, bready and toasty notes. Rather the tank method helps to preserve the fresh fruit aromas and flavors of the wine and is meant to be consumed within a year of harvest. It’s simply a different style for different tastes and preferences. We can all certainly have our preferences (I know I do), but it’s also helpful to remember that the traditional and tank methods create different products and that each has their place.
In the Know
Tempranillo goes by numerous aliases including Tinto de País in Ribera del Duero, as well as Ull de Llebre, Cencibel, and Tinto Fino in other areas of Spain, and Aragonez or Tinta Roriz in Portugal.
In the Hopper
And stay-tuned for more, because in a week, we’re going to the very soils of Asolo Prosecco DOCG! Italy, here I come! It’s time to go write some new pages and leave a few more traces.
Oh how fun!!! Italy is so awesome, I'm a tad jealous I must say!
I can't wait to hear all about the next trip!