Time & Direction
Wine Travel Beyond the Socials
A year ago, I sat down at my desk, opened my computer, and created my first Substack newsletter. I had the time, but the direction took a few issues to take shape. Now I have direction, but less time. My freelance work has nearly doubled (domestically and internationally), I’ve left wine production and moved into the front of house, I was selected as a wine judge for Concours Mondial, a speaker and moderator for my favorite grape (twice), and I traveled even more extensively than I was anticipating. But all of that said, if there is one thing I will create to be in this space - it’s time.
I love showing up here, writing, reviewing, sharing, and connecting. Between this newsletter and my social media, the opportunities and relationships formed around the globe are among the most enriching aspects of my life. But why so many jobs/projects and working seven days a week most weeks? It takes a lot to make a little in this industry, which is honestly, why if I didn’t love it so much, I could not keep up. Wine has taken me around the world, introduced me to people, places, cultures, and histories I would not otherwise have known, and it’s created a place where I can bring those opportunities and moments into the lives of others. I can both teach about wine and wine regions, while also inspiring others to make their own discoveries either in their glass or on the road. And at the same time, I am endlessly and continuously afforded curiosity, learning and discovery. It has given this wandering, nomadic soul direction and therefore, it gets my time.
So, here we are: one year in, 53 issues, 221 wines reviewed, 27 wineries and 32 wine regions in the spotlight, four guides/mini-books complete, and a continually expanding subscriber base in the hundreds (and that actually opens the email 🥰!). I’ll drink to that. And to you. Now, let’s pour it out.
In My Glass
If you’ve ever seen one of your favorite bands perform a concert at Colorado’s Red Rocks Amphitheatre, you know the ethereal feeling I’m about to describe, where each of your senses is engaged, in tandem, and you find yourself in an otherworldly, almost positively fugue state of being. (In my case it was Mt. Joy’s Orange Blood album played to the backdrop of an orange harvest moon and the glowing orange-hued natural rock walls of the surprisingly intimate venue.) Well, Spanish Garnachas can get me to a similar place, where a rhythm is felt by the whole of my senses at an internal depth that’s somewhat transcendent. And this juicy, mineral-driven version from the Terra Alta DO in northern Spain’s Catalonia region definitely skirted into this territory. From the inland area of Tarragona where the mountain peaks reach 3,000 feet, this Garnacha hits a body-swaying, downbeat, deep house electronic note with red berries, lavender, garden herbs, old leather, and yes, a minerality that throws Red Rocks. $26
2023 Approachment Wines WV Chardonnay
When you sit down to a Chardonnay dinner with wines from Bourgogne (Meursault) and Sonoma’s Kistler, you don’t expect to walk out talking about the inaugural release of a relative newcomer to Willamette Valley. Yet, that’s exactly what happened. I’ve previously written about Paden West and his Chardonnays at Benza Vineyards. He’s a talent and the reason I’m a club member. Well, get in while you can on this Chardonnay from Paden AND Jess West (Paden’s better half). They make wines together at Approachment Wines and have just released the label’s first Chardonnay. It is a mind-blower and nearly sold out because I’m not the only that knows it. I had just finished savoring my Kistler, when two sips into Approachment’s Chard, I looked at my husband and said, this is the best wine of the night. At first he looked at me incredulously, but it didn’t take long for him to come around. This Willamette Valley baller has it all: match-sticky reduction (but not too much), electric acidity balanced by a ridiculously pleasurable mouth-coating texture, a Chablis-like sense of barrel aging (aka perfectly oaked), orchard fruits, citrus, minerality, and even a touch of that chicken-fat I pick up in white Burgs. Serious balance, complexity and intensity for the win. Triple Crown. $35 (Yes! Only $35!!)
2023 Veyder-Malberg Liebecich Grüner Veltliner Wachau
After reading my Sauvy B and Grüner V guide last fall, you probably can guess, I’m a fan of the high-acid, mineral driven style of Grüner Veltliner from Austria with their telltale white pepper finish. And this one from the Wachau delivers in spades. It had that salt and pepper overture that rides across a bright citrus and pear driven chorus with melodic bursts of kiwi and melon on this food-friendly quaffer. Mozart. $48
2015 Champagne Pol Roger Winston Churchill
This is well out of my budget, but sometimes you gotta go big. Not only am I a Champagne fanatic, I spend most of my time reading historical nonfiction and historical, dramatic fiction set in Europe during the World Wars. As such, Pol Roger’s eponymous WC bottling of their reserve cuvée has always caught my eye. So, is it worth it? Yes, yes, and another resounding, yes! This Champagne took my mouth on a theme park thrill ride complete with multiple goosebump inducing drops, rises, curves, and loops. It was complex, incredibly lengthy, satisfying, and artfully focused. It is often risky to approach a hyped and renowned wine with high-expectations and hopes - the let down can be harsh. Not here, however. My anticipation was rewarded and expectations exceeded. The wine is aptly named. Winston Churchill. $300
In the Spotlight
Winery of the Week
Tucked in the Chehalem Mountains along the well-traveled wine road of Calkins Lane, is a small, boutique family winery focused on Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and a biodynamic approach to farming. This is de Lancellotti Family Vineyards. Here, Paul de Lancellotti tends 5.5 acres of biodynamic vineyards he and his sister planted in 2001. The wines are crafted at a multi-winery production facility in McMinnville, Oregon, and then shared with guests at the small tasting room at the family’s home and estate vineyard back on Calkins Lane. Paul and his family’s goal is to create wines reflective and respectful of the land, while sharing them in a way that creates meaningful connections. And I have to say, after spending 90 minutes with Paul, tasting and chatting wines, writing, family, travel, Italy, and a few other “natural medicine” based topics, a connection was formed. The experience reminded me of those I’ve had across Europe, where I was invited into a family’s home for wine as a stranger, but left as a friend. And this to me, is one of the best parts of wine. Not to mention, the de Lancellotti wines were well-crafted, nuanced, complex, and as approachable as the family is friendly. As for what I took home, aside from the buzz from a great conversation (not the wine which was professionally spit), I picked up bottles of the 2019 and 2023 Estate Chardonnays, and I’ll be going back for the Estate Pinot as well.
Wine Region of the Week
Established as an American Viticultural Area (AVA) in 1984, the Walla Walla Valley AVA sits in southeastern Washington and northeastern Oregon, and is a sub-appellation of the over-arching Columbia Valley. Walla Walla Valley, meaning “place of many waters,” sits at the base of the Blue Mountains and is one of three AVAs shared between Washington and Oregon. This unique cross-border AVA status emphasizes the interconnectedness of the wine regions and allows winemakers to draw from the diverse terroir on both sides of the state line.
Walla Walla, which sits between elevations of 400 to 2080 feet, experiences a semi-arid climate with hot growing days and cool nights. The well-drained soils, primarily a mix of loess and basalt, offer excellent drainage and contribute distinctive mineral qualities to the wines. Walla Walla has 3,000 acres of vines with more than 130 wineries, making it the area with the highest concentration of wineries in Washington state. The wineries are found divided among six wine districts: the Westside, Downtown, Airport, Eastside, Southside, and Oregon. And with 95% of the grapes planted being red varieties, it’s no surprise the region is best known for its production of Bordeaux and Rhône varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc. That said, there are plenty of white wines and rosés (even bubbles) to be noted.
My personal recommendations:
Westside: Gramercy Cellars, L’Ecole No. 41, and The Walls
Downtown: Avennia, Kontos Cellars, Mark Ryan Winery, Spring Valley Vineyard, Time & Direction, and Truthteller Winery
Airport: Ita Wines and Prospice Wines
Eastside: Abeja, Echolands, Figgins & Toil, and Jett Wines
Southside: Saviah Cellars, Sleight of Hand Cellars, and Valdemar Estates
Oregon: Cayuse, Delmas & SJR Vineyard, No Girls Wines, and Rotie Cellars
In the Room Where It Happened
Speaking of Walla Walla, a few weeks ago, I attended the Walla Walla Valley road show in Portland. Each year producers from across the region travel to Portland to showcase the latest vintage. The thing I was most surprised, and delighted by, was the amount of white wines on showcase, in particular, Viognier. I’ve often compared Washington state Syrahs to those of the Rhône Valley in France, so it makes sense to see the Rhône white grape thriving here as well. Overall, I came away realizing, I need to get back to Walla Walla and do some further exploration, not to mention stock up on my Syrah collection.
In the Moment
When I walk into a tasting, or a winery appointment, I never know what’s going to grab me most. I go in with an open mind, listen, taste, explore, and then, when I find something that moves me, I bring you “In the Moment.” I had two such moments at the recent Walla Walla tasting, and the first was meeting Steve Wells. Steve is the owner and winemaker at Time & Direction Wines. His tasting room is in the Downtown District of Walla Walla and was the last stop my family and I made on our visit last year. It was also our favorite - and not just for the wines, but the tasting experience overall. It was relaxed, cheeky, and had us laughing and learning.
Steve spent the early part of his career in hospitality, eventually making his way through the the Court of Master Sommeliers to become a Certified Somm and a beverage director at several New York City hot spots, before dropping everything to move west and become a winemaker in Walla Walla Valley. Today, Steve makes a range of Rhône-style wines, of which I had a hard time finding one I didn’t like, and sharing them in his and his team’s laidback style.
My recos: Space Pants Mourvèdre, Ceci n'est pas un vin rouge Grenache, Diamond Cutter Red Wine, Old School Syrah, and Gigawatts White Rhone Blend
And for that second moment, as I mentioned previously, the white wines at this year’s tasting were notable, with the Viognier taking center stage. One of those crisp, fragrant expressions came from a new-to-me winery, Prospice Wines. Prospice Wines was founded by Jay Krutulis and Matt Reilly, a lawyer and architect turned winemakers after cross-country moves brought them to Walla Walla. After completing studies at the local community college and working in cellars around the Valley, the two came together in 2017, to form Prospice Wines. I caught up with Jay (in the rain) to ask him how they crafted this exceptionally bright and crisp Viognier.
My recos: Gamache Vineyard Viognier, Lonesome Spring Ranch Rosé, and the Les Collines Vineyard Syrah
In the News
It’s no secret that Oregon sparkling wine is rising in popularity as a leading wine category. I wrote extensively about it here:
And in 2024, five Oregon traditional method sparkling wines were named to the Wine Enthusiast Top 100 list—including the #1 spot. In a state where more than 1,100 producers make wine, more than 100 now make bubbles, and many of those are producing it via the traditional method, or méthode Champenoise. And what’s even more exciting, 22 of those wineries just announced the Method Oregon Grand Tasting—a new tasting and education event set for Saturday, July 26, 2025. All wines featured at the event will be Oregon-made traditional method bubbles with a minimum of 15 months of tirage aging. This focus on traditional method sparkling wine is purposeful and designed to highlight the singularity of Oregon terroir for traditional method sparkling wine. Tickets are available now: Method Oregon.
In Production
I suppose this is also an “in the moment” capture, but sheep obviously can’t talk. Despite that, it’s pretty clear this guy conveys a total mood and I happened to catch him in Corollary’s vineyards last week. Sheep are a useful and environmentally friendly vineyard management tool for natural weed control and fertilization. Sheep graze on weeds and cover crops, reducing competition with the vines for water and nutrients, while naturally fertilizing the soil with their manure. By using sheep for weed control and fertilization, vineyards can reduce the need for herbicides, pesticides, and tractor passes.
In the Hopper
I’ve got two new guides in the works, plus more tastings, winery visits, and I’ll be embarking on another freelance writing gig. More to come!
In Appreciation
To all of my readers, whether you’ve been here since week one or have subscribed/followed more recently, thank you. For someone that can be a bit wordy at times, I have no words for how grateful I am for your readership, your notes and feedback, comments, friendship, and support.
Writing chose me early in life. From the time I could string together characters, I have loved expressing words, emotion, and communication through letters, essays, press releases, short stories, the occasional poem, feature articles, wine reviews, blog posts, social media content - all of it. My soul and proverbial pen are connected. But, I can say with certainty, the writing that has brought me the most joy, satisfaction, and pride is found here. So, thank you. Please, drop me a line anytime with feedback, questions, requests, or just a hello, and if you know someone else that finds joy, curiosity, and inspiration in wine and travel, I hope you will share this page. Here’s to another year wine traveling beyond the socials.
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