This is Italy After All
Wine Travel Beyond the Socials
“We’re closed for the evening,” said the forlorn chef taking a last puff before stuffing his cigarette butt into a bottle of Biondi Santi Brunello turned make-shift ash tray. This is Italy after all.
“Grazie, nessun problema,” my drinking companion for the evening and I replied. It was late and we too were tired. We weren’t expecting much to be open nor looking to tie one on. We mostly just wanted a place for a decompressionary night-cap after a long day of learning, spitting, and soaking up the Umbrian sun. As we started back up the hill, Paolo, the owner emerged.
“Wait! This is Kristy. My friend. Kristy what can we get you. The wine list? Sit, sit.”
I met Paolo 24 hours earlier.
This is Italy after all.
Never underestimate the value of sharing a bottle, genuine kindness, and gratitude. You never know what doors or bottles will be opened and what connections will change the course of an evening — or a storyline.
Here are a few wines that told their own story, changed mine, and might inspire yours:
In My Glass
2024 Les Chevaux Ivres Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc lover? You need this wine. Seriously. This is the most Loire-like expression I’ve tasted in the States and she’s a beauty! I’m not exaggerating either. The notes in my tasting book lead with “Oh! Hell yeah!” If this was a blind, I would have guessed — in full confidence — that this was either Chinon or Saumur-Champigny. It gave savory aromas, red crunchy fruits, spice, pepper, and an ever so slight hint of funk. And after that initial sip, I sat there for a long time, repeatedly brining my nose back to the glass, taking tiny sip after tiny sip, marveling. Mais oui. $42
(This wine will be released to the public at the Indie Wine Mixer in the Willamette Valley on Sunday, May 24, 2026, with sales open on the winery website to follow.)
2024 de Lancellotti Family Vineyards “Onelia” Estate Pinot Noir
I don't buy Pinot often. Living in a veritable sea of it here in Oregon, I get picky — particularly about the relatively ubiquitous expressions. It takes a certain balance of quality, character, expressiveness, feel, and distinctiveness to catch my attention. Well, guess what? After a recent visit to check out Paul de Lancellotti's newest releases, I was smote. The entire line-up showed well, but I kept finding my nose back in the glass of Onelia, affectionately named after Paul's Italian nonna. The assertive salty minerality laced over a subtle florality and red and dark berries was simply too captivating to ignore — and the lush, intoxicating freshness in each rousing sip before the slow, lingering goodbye sealed it. Tapped. $75
2021 Benanti Pietra Marina Etna Bianco Superiore
This shared special pour caught me be surprise this week. Admittedly, this wine is well out of my price range, and I likely wouldn’t drop two bills for it even if it was — although I certainly wouldn’t fault you if you did. It’s really fucking good. From 80-year-old vines on Sicily’s active volcano, this is Carricante like I’ve never experienced. It’s silky, soft, and explosive all at once — somehow seamless and graceful despite the notable tension. It’s intense and concentrated, exceptionally balanced, luring you in with a flinty minerality before it unleashes a dizzying kaleidoscope of flavors and sensations inside your unsuspecting mouth. And with its long, salty finish, don’t be surprised by the full on hedonistic urge to take that next taste. Snaring. $195
I cannot find this wine currently in the states, but I had to share it on the off chance you come across it, or wines from the Lison DOCG (in Venezia) in general. I LOVED it. It was my by-the-glass pour over the course of a week. It’s flavors weren’t particularly remarkable - citrus, herbal, mineral - but the way they came together with elegance, vigor, and length (in an almost Chenin-like way), took this wine from an ordinary white to a notable pleasure. I looked forward to my nightly glass with a childlike glee, getting even more excited each time knowing what was in store and curious to see it play out with yet another pairing. Could I have easily polished it off in one night? You bet, but this wine was way more fun as the carrot dangling at the end of a long day. Carrot Method. 10.50€
In the Spotlight
Wine Region of the Week
I have a lot to share about the Campania DOC region, which I’ve briefly touched on here before (and visited last week). But for today, I want to hone in on one of its five provinces, Avellino, and its wine growing area, Irpinia. Avellino is the most inland province of Campania, sitting about 30 miles east of Naples and aptly referred to as the “green heart of Campania.” After last week’s visit, I’d say that tracks. Characterized by mountainous terrain and high altitude, Avellino is home to the Irpinia DOC and its three well-regarded and self-contained DOCGs: Taurasi (red: Aglianico), Greco di Tufo (white: Greco), and Fiano di Avellino (white: Fiano). There is also one Irpinia DOC sub-appellation: Campi Taurasini DOC (red: Aglianico).
Sitting in the foothills of the Apennine Mountains, Irpinia’s continental climate is tempered by elevation and the rain shadow provided by the mountains, though the four seasons are distinctive with spring frosts and autumn rains an ongoing challenge. The indigenous grape varieties benefit from significant diurnal temperature swings and a long growing season, with harvest generally occurring in October and November. Soils are predominately limestone with calcareous clay deposits and outcroppings of sulfur — unlike most of Campania, volcanic influence is minimal.
Irpinia has more than 2,000 years of winemaking history and is best (although not widely) known for its white wines of the ancient and native Greco and Fiano white grape varieties, as well as its red wines from Aglianico. You’ll also find other notable winemaking grapes including whites from Coda di Volpe and Falanghina, and reds from Piedirosso and Sciascinoso, all of which produce a range of styles including sparkling, white, amber, rosato, and red. As for producers, you’ve likely come across wines from Mastroberardino, a 10th generation Irpinian producer with a significant and largely monopolistic presence in the U.S. marketplace. These wines arguably and single-handedly put Campania on the map, and for a good many reasons — least of which is their delectability. That said, there are a number of emerging names and labels from Campania worth noting and seeking out — a few I’ve named previously (Fratelli Addimanda and Fiorentino), more I’ll name in the coming weeks, and one, I’ll share now…
Winery of the Week
Situated on a remote, picturesque landscape in Irpinia, near the village of Montefalcione, Donnachiara is a female-owned, multi-generational winery focused on the native grapes of the region with an eye towards modernity, style, and international distribution. The winery is currently led by fourth-generation and stylish firebrand Ilaria Petitto, but the story began during the World Wars when her great-grandmother Chiara Mazzarelli Petitto dedicated her life to maintaining the vineyards on her family’s land. Ilaria’s mother, also Chiara, created Donnachiara Winery in 2005 as a tribute to her grandmother — a way to say, her work had not been in vain. As Chiara developed the brand, built out the cellar, and began exporting the wines, her daughter Ilaria was working as a lawyer and traveling internationally, with no plans of returning to Irpinia. But, at her mother’s urging and after seeing how her great-grandmother’s love for her land could be shared worldwide, Ilaria returned ready to use her business acumen and put her international stamp on the family business.
Since taking the reins in 2015, Ilaria has worked tirelessly to ensure the wines express both the grape and the terroir with elegance, establish a well-recognized and respected brand name, and share both her family's story and their wines with an extensive distribution network. The results speak for themselves — Gambero Rosso awards, a Wine Spectator Top 100 ranking, and a placement with Total Wine in the USA among them. Now she's turning her sights toward international enotourism, combining viticulture, wine, art, and hospitality as a way to showcase her family's land, heritage, and passion for sharing what they love: wines from their organically managed vines planted in the windy hills of Montefalcione, Tufo, and Lapio between 1,300 and 1,975 feet in soils of clay and tuff. No recipes. No formulas. Simply the best of each unique vintage.
My take: These wines are indisputably polished and elegant — expressive of Irpinia’s natural landscape and the uniqueness of the varieties, but also clearly aimed at a more mass-consuming international market. And that’s not a bad thing - it’s award-winning and successful. Mostly, I state that to illustrate that Donnachiara wines are different than the majority of wines I’ve experienced from the region, much of which showcase more of an old world rusticity. Now, some might argue such differences represent quality level, and while that can certainly be true, I personally feel it can sometimes also be a matter of style and interpretation. Honestly, I’m here for both ends of the spectrum — polished and rustic — particularly when it comes to Aglianico.
And I’m here for Donnachiara’s wines. I found the whites to be expressive, complex, and ageworthy - particularly their “cru” expression of Irpinia’s aromatic Fiano, “Esoterico,” of which we tasted the 2025, 2013, 2008, and the 2007. Each vintage of this wine blossomed in the glass, an ever-evolving encapsulation of place, beauty, and above all, the very essence of Fiano. And while it was all I could do not to keep sipping that 2007, it was the 2024 “Aletheia” Greco di Tufo Riserva that remained in my glass throughout lunch. It was creamy, tart, herbaceous, ethereally mineral-driven and near impossible to put down - especially when paired with the expertly roasted, fresh, seasonal vegetables. Fortunately, most of these wines, including the Fiano and Greco, are easy to access in the states, so make sure you do. But as for what came home, well, that was the Tre Bicchieri-awarded 2021 Taurasi DOCG. I just can’t quit Aglianico.
In Brief
Aglianico is one of the oldest native vines of Italy. Its grapes are thick-skinned, late-ripening and believed to be related to both Syrah and Teroldego. It needs a lot of sun and generally results in wines with intensity, prominent tannic structure, high acidity, and average levels of alcohol. The vineyards in Taurasi DOCG mostly sit above 1,300-feet with several of the best sites found even higher. Now in my experience, having tasted probably close to 200 Taurasi in the last few years, while these wines can come across as bold owing to the tannins, they don’t feel overly heavy because of their acidity. That said, you will want some food with these age-worthy reds.
In the Moment
Following our tasting and lunch at Donnachiara Winery in Irpinia, I was able to snag the project’s new consulting winemaker, Marco Giulioli to chat about his technique for taming the aforementioned Aglianico while still maintaining its distinctive essence and nuanced character.
In short, the technique Marco is using during harvest is one of minimal extraction. When making a red wine, the juice from the red grapes soaks with the skins during fermentation. This adds structure and color to the resulting wine. It is typical during this stage to either “punch down” or ‘pump over” the fermenting juice - each is a process of releasing the carbon dioxide forming below the “cap” of grape skins that settles to the top of the vessel, as well as extracting more color and tannin. In the case of the highly tannic Aglianico, Marco is limiting such activities. He wants as little extraction as possible from the skins.
Now, the fermentation process can normally take anywhere from 10 days to several weeks - depending on yeasts used, temperatures, etc. - and the skins typically macerate with the juice until the sugars have all been consumed by the yeast and the wine is rendered dry. It’s at this point the wine is drained, and the skins are pressed before the resulting red wine is moved to an aging vessel. Marco, however, is experimenting with different maceration times. In other words, depending on where he and his team judges the wine is at in terms of structure, body, smell, and taste, he might remove the skins from the juice prior to the completion of fermentation and let the wine finish its ferment without them. It’s a matter of extreme observation, detail, and a lot of extra work (not to mention much more cleaning) as the decision can change within a matter of hours. He once even removed the skins for several hours, before adding back a lesser amount to achieve the balance he was striving to achieve.
And yes, this is a lot of geeky winemaking science. As a former cellar rat, I’m admittedly fascinated and Marco is exactly the kind of voice I love learning from. He’s a skilled, sensory winemaker and the Taurasi DOCG and Taurasi DOCG Riserva speak for themselves. Donnachiara is in good hands.
In the Room Where It Happened
Later this summer, I will go into greater detail on my recent visits to Campania, Lazio, and Montefalco, Italy. I have so many stories and wines to share. In the meantime, I want to briefly touch on the highlight of the last press trip: Campania Stories. Campania Stories is an annual opportunity for media and beverage professionals to discover the wines of the region — far more vast and varied than I anticipated. The event immerses you in winery and vineyard visits, cultural excursions, intimate meetings with growers and makers, and a multi-day tasting spanning each of Campania's sub-regions, varieties, styles, and vintages. It was a peak into the very soul of this Southern Italian winescape and the opportunity to begin to understand not only its depth, but its heart. This isn’t a polished or posh destination. While sprawling villas, immaculately landscaped vineyards, and cypress-lined drives greeting international visitors are commonplace in Tuscany, Campania is far more rural, understated, rustic, and wildly authentic. But it is equally as welcoming, charming, breathtakingly beautiful, and filled with a delicious diversity of food and wine - you’ll just need a car and a good translation app. More on all of that to come — the regions, the grapes, the wines, and how to get them into your glass. Until then, here are a few visual highlights:
In Case You Missed It
Welcome to all the new followers and subscribers. We’ve been on quite a run here and I can’t thank you enough. You are the reason this work keeps going. I am truly grateful for each of you that takes the time to open the email, read the stories, and spread the word. I love to share wine, wine travel, and how they each inspire curiosity, community, and a life well-lived. And hopefully, it’s brought some inspiration to your glasses and tables as well.
With this growing support, I decided to open the archives for a while, so you can now go back and discover things you may have missed, reread things that you want to revisit, shop for a bottle, or maybe even plan a trip or two. And to the community new and old, please don’t ever hesitate to reach out with questions, thoughts, or comments. I’m a button away and always personally respond.
From the archives, here are a few of my favorite issues:
And here are a few of your favorites:
In the Press
This will be my third time attending the annual Chehalem Mountains AVA wine tasting, “Magic in the Mountains.” It’s an incredible opportunity to taste a diverse range of wines and wine styles all in one place - and in a celebratory, welcoming, and community driven atmosphere. No intimidation or pretense here, just a great afternoon tasting what has made this AVA so special for the last 20 years.
Magic in the Mountains - Saturday, May 30th from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. - The Allison Inn & Spa in Newberg, Oregon. 39 wineries, 78 wines, 4 local food purveyors, plus live music from Marcus Logan Glaze! Tickets are available here.
In the Hopper
I’m making a return to Livermore, California this week. Regular readers will recall previous visits to this lesser-known, but hidden-gem of a wine region just outside of San Francisco - including my stint at CabFrancAPalooza. I will again be exploring the region, revisiting a few of my favorites, checking in on the new vintages, and likely finding a few new wines and producers to share with you as well. But, this time around, I will also be judging for the California Signature Wine Awards, a national wine competition being held next week at the Alameda County Fairgrounds. Over the course of two, full days a panel of 18 judges will blindly evaluate 400 wines across six categories. I’m looking forward to participating in an all US wine review again. My last was several years ago and centered entirely on Michigan wine - an adventure I’ll have to share at some point! Rating wines qualitatively is very much my thing, but domestic (particularly California) wines largely are not, so I am excited to learn, discover, and ultimately share with you what I come to ascertain — the great, the good, the bad, and the befuddling. See you soon!
C’mon Kristy, you can’t leave us hanging with the story like that!! It felt like there was so much more and I wanted to read more of it❤️
Good stuff. Love the intro, love the Campania pics, cab franc review and really want an Aglianico, and amazed as always at how much stuff you do.