Something Old, Something New

Wine Travel Beyond the Socials

I’ve been a writer for years. My entire life really having started with lengthy, emotional, often angsty letters I’d either hurl down the stairs at my parents when I was angry, or lovingly present to them at birthdays or holidays. I wrote through my emotions - my anger, my grief, my joy, and most certainly my love (which I still do on rare, but inspired occasions to this day).

Writing eventually trickled into my academic and professional careers. I’ve written millions of words, thousands of Instagram posts, hundreds of press releases, dozens of websites and marketing pieces, and emails…oh my god. I’m certain I’ve composed hundreds of millions of words to my “live diary” (a pen pal since high school) alone. So, no, words and lengthy pieces at that, are not new. But in this space, this week’s bonus newsletter is something new: my first feature length article on Substack. I hope you enjoy it (and if not, pour yourself a glass of domestic sparkling wine and read it again). Everything is better with bubbles after all.

Uncaging Domestic Sparkling Wines

by Kristy Wenz

Who doesn’t love sparkling wine? It seems everyone has jumped on the bubbles’ train in the last few years, and as they should, bubbles are both delicious and fun! In fact, once reserved for special occasions or New Year’s Eve, sparkling wines are now opened at the start of dinner parties, on Tuesday nights, for brunch, to start and end wine tastings, and even served throughout entire meals. Today’s wine lovers are embracing them, generally spend more money for quality, and wineries around the world are answering the call.

Anecdotally, I’ve witnessed the rise in bubbles, both in availability and sales, on a local level (in the Willamette Valley), amongst my international friends, and in tasting rooms around the world. The amount and diversity of sparkling wines available today is notably greater than it was even five years ago. And people are certainly popping them more than they used to - often for no reason other than they just want them. But it’s not just my opinion. I recently spoke to winery owners and makers across the U.S. to weigh in on the rise of sparkling wine worldwide, as well as what they’re seeing on the ground.

“The sparkling wine market has exploded in the last decade. There has always been a demand for traditional method sparkling wine, but this has greatly increased due to more education and a greater appreciation for the style,” said Meaghan Frank, Vice President of Dr. Konstantin Frank winery in the Finger Lakes of New York. “And Prosecco really launched the market into a sparkling frenzy. There has also been more spotlight on the Crémant styles, Cava, Franciacorta, and of course Champagne too. We are riding that wave and we hope it never goes away.”

Mike Laing, Owner and Director of Mawby on Leelanau Peninsula in Michigan agrees, “We’re riding the Prosecco train. Owing to the volume and price of Prosecco on the market in the last few years, we’ve seen a growth in sparkling wine production and sales.”

And the numbers for Prosecco illustrate the aforementioned observations. According to Drinks International in 2007, roughly 50 million bottles of Prosecco were produced in total. By comparison, 42.9 million bottles of Prosecco were imported to the U.S. alone between January and April of 2024, as cited by Wine Industry Advisor. It’s no wonder U.S. wineries are increasingly looking to add sparkling wine to their repertoire, and rightly so with the latest data for the U.S. market from drinks’ market analyst IWSR showing the sparkling wine category with a sales growth of 6% between 2017 and 2022. Additionally, they noted a projected continued growth of 1%, between 2022 and 2027, at a time when overall wine sales show a 2% decline in that same period. The theory? Roughly 38% of sparkling wine lovers drink it weekly, a statistic up 22% in 2019.

The Domestic Innovators

Sparkling wine production certainly isn’t a new phenomenon in the United States, in fact, the first Champagne method bubbles were made from the Catawba grape by Nicholas Longworth, near Cincinnati on the hillsides of Mount Adams in the 1830s. And of course, California has been producing sparkling wine for decades with the first American “Champagne” bottled by Isaac Cook as “Cook’s Champagne,” in the late 1850s with Korbel to follow in 1882. By the mid-1960s, the French-led sparkling wine ventures in California began with Domaine Chandon, and in a real volume game changer in 2007, Rebecca Faust and Bruce Lundquist established Rack & Riddle Custom Wine Services providing custom Méthode Champenoise winemaking and bottling for small wineries wanting to get into the sparkling wine game.

Today, California’s sparkling wine production eclipses the rest of the country, and is often the first state that comes to mind for U.S. wines, and certainly U.S. sparkling wine. But, it might surprise you to know that sparkling wine has also been produced in New York’s Finger Lakes since the 1850s. In fact, in the four years post-prohibition, New York made 772,000 gallons of sparkling wine compared to only 350,000 gallons made in California during the same period. And it was in 1985, Dr. Konstantin Frank winery in the Finger Lakes of New York became the first in the region to produce Méthode Champenoise sparkling wine from Vitis Vinifera grapes, specifically from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay clones from Champagne.

“We were an early pioneer in traditional method sparkling using the vinifera varieties,” Ms. Frank said. “My grandfather wanted to build upon the legacy of his father and create a niche for himself, and since New York has had a traditional method sparkling tie going back nearly 200 years to pre-prohibition times using the native grape varieties (Concord, Catawba, Niagara), this seemed to be the next frontier.”

The venture wasn’t without challenges, however, noted Ms. Frank, “Although the initial reception was positive, it was a very small base. But my grandfather, Willy, labeled every bottle “Finger Lakes Champagne,” in an effort to legitimize the sparkling wines and foster credibility. At the time, in 1985, very few knew about the Finger Lakes as a world-class wine region so it was a bit of an uphill battle creating a name for the region and these styles of wine.”

Simultaneously, in the Great Lakes state of Michigan, Larry Mawby was experimenting with sparkling wine production. Given that specific volumes aren’t necessary to produce sparkling wine, it was easier to experiment with the style at scale, and in the mid-1980s and early 1990s, he did just that finding that the cold climate of northern Michigan was also well-suited to the early harvesting of sparkling wine grapes. And with the planting of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, he was able to further invigorate the style.

“While Larry’s efforts were successful, it was a slow process both to produce the wine and make the sales,” Mr. Laing said. “Larry would load up a truck and make personal sales calls around the state as well as set up tastings with both consumers and trade professionals to get feedback on the product. The sales and marketing took a tremendous amount of time, but ultimately, that’s the most important part of the business and it paid off.”

But success doesn’t happen in a vacuum, and as is the case in regions around the world, collaboration is key. Both Dr. Frank and Mawby have since worked with other wineries within their regions as well as consultants nationally and internationally to further the sparkling wine category. From tastings and symposiums, to collaborations and sales support from local trade organizations, these early pioneers have been laying the groundwork for success. The same can be said for more recently emerging sparkling wine producers and regions found in Oregon and Washington.

“Sparkling wine has been happening in Willamette Valley (Oregon) since the 80’s, starting with Domaine Meriwether, but ultimately really pioneered by Argyle,” said Jeanne Feldkamp, Co-owner & Co-winemaker of Corollary Wines in Willamette Valley. “We’ve seen a real explosion of activity, though, as people like Andrew Davis with Radiant Wine Company have helped build-out more of the infrastructure needed to create world class sparkling wine, like their bottling truck and riddling/disgorging facility. Radiant’s services have opened the door for new producers to focus just on sparkling wine.”

Devyani Isabel Gupta, Winemaker for Valdemar Estates in Walla Walla, Washington, also found collaboration as well as local academic programs to be key to the success of their sparkling wine program.

“During my time as a student at Walla Walla Community College’s Center for Enology & Viticulture, we covered the fundamentals of making sparkling wine, and as students, we took part in the various steps of making traditional method blanc de noir. It was an introduction into the overarching framework for a sparkling project.” Ms. Gupta added, “When I began to develop a protocol for Valdemar’s sparkling project, I tried to speak with over 10 winemakers nationally to trace some hardline do’s and don’ts, and was most thankful for the insights from my neighbor, Matt Austin of Grosgrain winery in Walla Walla. He not only openly and transparently shared ideas, but let us bottle and disgorge on his in-house sparkling line.”

Ms. Feldkamp found a similar spirit of neighborly support in the Willamette Valley, “We would not be where we are today without the help of so many others. Even before we started making wine, people like Michael Lundeen (Lundeen Wines), Jessica Cortell (Vitis Terra Vineyard Services and the Cortell Collection), and James Frey (Trisaetum) took the time to drive us around, show us their vineyards, share their experiences and their wines. Their generosity really fast-forwarded our education.”

Gabriel Crowell, Co-Founder & Director of Winemaking for Tirridis in Prosser, Washington agreed that local support was tantamount to their new sparkling venture. “Washington might be the best state to start a winery in right now in the USA,” he said. “Many people want to see success and have never told us no. There is such a pull and passion here for investment in long-term agriculture, and simply put, the stories and farming dynasties in Washington state could fill a library twice over.”

Pressure Points

As the domestic sparkling wine category expands, and more labels line the tasting room and shop shelves, competition for the wine lover will increase. And although most wine drinkers are willing to spend more money for quality today than they were even a decade ago, the price of domestic sparkling wines can still come as a surprise to many, particularly for producers and regions they may yet to be familiar with.

In the wine business, it’s said you need a million to make a million. Most people aren’t going into winemaking or starting a winery for the cashflow. It’s an expensive venture with often little, and delayed, returns - and it’s especially the case in sparkling wine. While it is possible to find high-quality sparkling wines under $20, and even more between $20 and $50, many of those are produced internationally, at scale, or in more cost-effective methods (tank method or forced carbonation). For traditional method sparkling wines produced in smaller quantities, and particularly those made stateside, the costs are likely to be reflected in the bottle price and felt in the wallet. In fact, some might even match or exceed a bottle price of Champagne (from France). As for the “why’s,” there are many ranging from the cost of grapes, equipment, and labor to time, resources, and the general costs of marketing and business.

“Sparkling wine equipment is very specialized and expensive, and for those hand riddling and disgorging it makes the process more labor intensive too,” said Ms. Frank.

Mr. Laing added, “In Michigan, we’re not anywhere near the sparkling wine equipment producers or vendors. If something breaks, or needs maintenance it can be a challenge.” Mr. Laing also noted, education and awareness can be a challenge for small producers, and for wineries in emerging regions, “Even with having national distribution of our wines, awareness for the product outside of the state is still a significant marketing hurdle.”

Ms. Feldkamp concurs, “We’re absolutely not on the radar yet of most sommeliers nationally. We have a lot of education to do today. Part of that, is we as an industry (in Oregon) still make such a small amount of wine. But, you put our wine in front of people and they have this “aha” moment. It’s great fun to see.”

But even when there is a general base of regional and producer knowledge, there are further education hurdles. As Ms. Frank states, “It continues to be a challenge to educate consumers that the traditional method sparkling wines are the most labor-intensive and expensive to produce and therefore are going to be more expensive on the shelf compared to a CO2 infused or tank method sparkling. And while the pet-nat trend has helped bring in new consumers to the marketplace, it has also led to further confusion on pricing.”

The Future is Bright

While the price of domestic sparkling wine might currently be a challenge to the wineries for sales to restaurants and national consumers via retail outlets, many wineries are seeing sales success in their tasting rooms. In fact, some wineries are even reserving their bubbles solely for their wine club members owing to the gap between supply and demand. And of the sparkling producers I’ve had the chance to speak with, both the established and the newcomers, most are keen and passionate about the future of their regions and projects.

For Mr. Laing, he believes sparkling wine is the right style for the region and hopes more producers will try their hand at it. “We hope to be a leader in encouraging our neighbors and colleagues in Michigan to make a foray into sparkling wine. And for those entering the market, it’s important to look at new places to plant and grow vines with that in mind. It is something to consider from the beginning. And the more we talk to people, the more I’m optimistic about the growth of sparkling wine in the state overall.”

In the more established wine regions on the West Coast, although not necessarily renowned (yet) for sparkling wines, there is a general positivity for the category.

“Washington state is equipped with the terroir, talent, and resources to make all types of wine, sparkling wine very much included in that,” said Mr. Crowell. “Washington sparkling wine speaks to a Washington quality of transfiguration and modality. We have so much to work with, and some of that might be different from what is thought to be classically traditional, but it is those differences, I think, that make it the most interesting to explore.”

Fellow Pacific Northwesterner, Ms. Feldkamp is also optimistic, “Sparkling wine in Willamette Valley gets better every year. Producers are tasting each others’ wines and learning from each other very quickly. We’re also seeing more and more producers build up reserve wines for blending or releasing long lees aged wines. There are some really stunning wines coming out now, and we’re poised to see even more producers dedicated to Willamette Valley sparkling, with different voices, more national awareness and distribution, and certainly more kick ass wines from awesome producers.”

And critics (yours truly included) agree. In fact, just a few weeks ago Willamette Valley’s 2013 RMS Brut Delayed Disgorgement 10-Year Sparkling Blend from ROCO Winery earned the #1 spot on Wine Enthusiast's Top 100 Wines of 2024. And while I might not have placed the ROCO bubbly (although delicious) in the top slot, that achievement, along with the four other Oregon sparklers making the pub’s top 100 (including one from Corollary Wines), certainly broadcast what locals and visitors have been experiencing for the last few years. It’s time to take note of Oregon’s sparkling wine scene. It should also be noted the recognition of Oregon wine goes beyond the domestic market. In 2021, Champagne Bollinger bought Ponzi Vineyards in the Chehalem Mountains and the Marzotto Family of Santa Margherita USA became majority owner of ROCO Winery in 2022, making ROCO their first U.S. acquisition (their second being Marsh Estate in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA of the Willamette Valley just this week*). Additionally, in 2023, Italian wine giant Marchesi Frescobaldi expanded into the U.S. with their purchase of Domaine Roy & fils, also in the Dundee Hills. Is it a coincidence that high-quality sparkling wines are produced at all three of the acquired wineries? Maybe, but maybe not.

Ms. Frank sees international acquisition within the Finger Lakes as inevitable as well. “In the near future I do believe we will have outside investment from major sparkling producers to the Finger Lakes region,” said Ms. Frank. “We are one of the last cool climate regions in America and have the potential to own that category. The future is exceptionally bright for our sparkling wines here in the Finger Lakes.”

“We’re really excited to work with others to help establish the Willamette Valley as a world class sparkling wine region—nationally and, hopefully someday, internationally,” added Ms. Feldkamp. “Even though Argyle got things started 35 years ago, it still seems like we’re just at the beginning of something big.”

I will admit, I’m extremely partial to Champagne, Franciacorta, and Crémant, but I agree domestic sparkling wines are at the beginning of something big. Domestic sparklers have often lacked a kind of tension and character to me, and frankly, sometimes quality. Here in Oregon, only a few have personally risen to the level of outstanding, but I will acknowledge that the number of labels that have risen to very good, and that I’m willing to spend money on, has multiplied significantly in the last year. I’m also very partial to the sparkling wines of the Finger Lakes and the few in production in Michigan. There’s so much potential. And while the price point may be a sticking point for some, and certainly will keep many domestic bottles from being a random, Tuesday night pour, I will continue to explore, enjoy, and buy - particularly from the producers I find revolutionary, passionate, or just downright good people making damn good shit. And I encourage you to do the same. There’s a world of sparkling wine to discover, and a lot of the most promising is in our domestic backyards.

---

Thank you to the fascinating and dynamic personalities quoted above for your time and insights. Keep doing the damn thing! You’re each amazing and inspiring, and producing sparkling wines I’m happy to enjoy as much as possible.

And thank you all for reading, commenting, sharing, sending notes, and supporting my work. If I could present you each with a lengthy, emotional love letter of gratitude I would. I’d even hurl it down the stairs with passion (not anger) if I could. I hear that gave my parents quite a laugh at my youthful, and yet to wane, flair for the dramatic.

And if you’re interested in checking out the wineries noted above, you can find their websites linked below. I’ll also be happy to email you my personal recommendations should you be interested. Just shoot me a note via the big button, also found below.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery - Finger Lakes, New York

Mawby - Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan

Corollary Wines - Willamette Valley, Oregon

Valdemar Estates - Walla Walla, Washington

Tirriddis - Yakima Valley, Washington

*Santa Margherita Gruppo Vinicolo, through ROCO Winery, acquired Marsh Estate in the Willamette Valley’s Yamhill-Carlton AVA. The estate spans over 50 acres at 330 feet above sea level. Marsh Estate is LIVE-certified and was acquired to focus their expansion on sparkling wine, Pinot Noir, and hospitality.

As printed by Gambero Rosso International, according to Andrea Conzonato, CEO of the Fossalta di Portogruaro-based group, “This investment aims to increase Roco Winery's production capacity both qualitatively and quantitatively (current production volumes are around 180,000 bottles annually), with ‘ambitious goals for business expansion. Market signals,’ concludes Conzonato, ‘are entirely encouraging, especially for the sparkling wine category and Pinot Noir, which fully align with the preferences of new consumers.’” #heardchef

---

Now, for a few bonus fun facts, Q&A’s, and interesting revelations….thank you for your donations to support my work - these are for you….