Let’s keep this wine train rolling. This week we’re taking a spin through the hills of Ribeira Sacra, Spain; Asolo, Italy; and Dallas (Oregon), with a few extra stops along the way. No tickets necessary. All aboard!
In My Glass
2018 Ruby Vineyard Chardonnay Reserve
I love Oregon Chardonnay. Full stop. The classic Oregon Chards have everything I want from this grape: flintiness, minerality, bright citrus notes, electric acidity, and that rounded, ethereal mouthfeel that makes me swoon. They also typically have none of that buttered popcorn, sweet, or toasty vanilla bean thing that I’m personally not into. And this Reserve Chardonnay from the Chehalem Mountains’ Ruby Vineyard is a stellar example of the more reductive style (aka flinty) I literally crave. We opened a bottle this week from our winery visit a few months ago and after the first sip I said, “This. This is exactly what I needed today.” You know those friends that give the best hugs? It’s like that, an embrace you feel from head to toe. Ruby Vineyards is a high-quality hugger. Home. $50
Mencia is a red grape native to Bierzo, Spain that typically produces lighter, vibrant wines with soft tannins. Sometimes they can be floral, other times more earthy, but most often they are notably red-fruited. Last summer in Spain, with temperatures in the upper 80s (or higher) Mencia was our go-to wine of choice. It’s perfect with a slight chill (55 to 60-degrees), and so too was this version from the steep slopes of Ribeira Sacra and the dexterous folks at Fedellos. Produced in a gentle, minimalist style, this is a juicy bottle bursting with fresh, crunchy cranberries, raspberries, cherries, and strawberries, with layers of earth, brushy herbs, minerality, and dusty tannins for an all-around satisfying experience. Spanish reds aren’t all big and bold, but Mencia for all its easy-drink qualities, is still distinctively Spanish. Cap’n Crunch. $30
Cleto Chiarli Vecchia Modena Premium Lambrusco di Sorbara
Once upon a time there was a girl who swore she’d never enjoy Lambrusco (aka a fizzy red sparkler from Italy). Friends and sommeliers tried to convince her with various bottles, food pairings, and sheer inundation of information, but alas, their efforts were all in vain. Then one sunny summer evening in a rooftop garden overlooking her fair home city, she was presented an unnamed glass of bubbles. She smelled and sipped. “It smells kinda like Lambrusco, but it can’t be! It tastes too good.” But much to her disbelief it was indeed a Lambrusco! Cleto Chiarli’s Sorbara Vecchia Modena in fact. And now, to this day, that girl is still singing the praises of Lambrusco wherever she goes. True story. It’s also true that there is ALWAYS a bottle of this Lambrusco in my house. Always.
Lambrusco comes from Modena in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, and this one in particular is produced by one of the oldest wineries in the region. In fact, founded in 1860, Cleto Chiarli was the first to make and sell Lambrusco. The Vechhia Modena is derived from the Lambrusco di Sorbara grape from the estate’s alluvial loam soils. It’s produced in the tank method (like Prosecco) for a soft frizzante style, and it’s bottled as Brut with only 8g/l of sugar. This fizz is dry, popping with strawberries, cherries, and juicy watermelon, and it finishes with a touch of sour apple jolly rancher alongside a refreshing wave of acidity. It may sound like a grown-up summer popsicle, but this magenta sparkler actually makes for sensational food pairings year-round with pizza, pasta, spicy sausages, roasted squash, charcuterie, glazed ham, burgers, veggie lasagna, Jimmy John’s Spicy East Coast Italian samich… Goldilocks. $18
In the Spotlight
Winery of the Week
Bresolin BIO was founded in Asolo Prosecco DOCG in 2012 by three young brothers: a farmer/viticulturist, a winemaker, and an economist. But, their story didn’t begin here, rather, they found their love for vine growing and winemaking in their grandparent’s vineyards in neighboring Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG. It was here they developed an understanding for and an appreciation of the land on which they lived and of those that surrounded them. The brothers, however, decided to bring that appreciation and commitment to the land back to their home village of Asolo, which at the time was still a relatively new DOCG, and they planted roots - for vines and olive trees.
Matteo, Davide, and Enrico now organically farm their Asolo Prosecco DOCG vineyards and olive orchard. They know the hills, the plants, animals, and people that call them home, and so they made the decision to be as organic and natural as possible from the onset. They are even experimenting with the PIWI grapes, which are painstakingly bred (typically for 20 years) before put to commercial use. The goal for these varieties of grapes is to combat fungal diseases by producing grapes that are of high-quality in regard to flavor and structure, but that are also adaptable to challenging climates, various terroirs, and changing weather patterns. You can get a refresher or read more about that here, but basically, everything the Bresolin brothers do is with the intention of quality wines without sacrificing the environment in which they live.
As for their wines, they produce a line of Asolo Prosecco DOCG from Col Fondo to Extra Dry. You’ll also find red wines from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, to the regional varieties of Recantina and Montello Rosso. They even produce a Rosé Vino Spumante (sparkling rosé) from Raboso Trevigiano (making it not a Prosecco although it’s made the same way). And I’ll add that their passion both in the vineyards and for the care they take in the cellar is evident in the wines. They may be young, but these three brothers could teach some older winemakers a thing or two!
In Their Words (and a few of mine)
A few months ago, I had the pleasure to meet Meghan Olivier, the co-owner of the family-owned St. Merry Vineyard in Dallas, Oregon. Meghan is also the vineyard operator, manager, and the 24-7 devoted caretaker of this 50-acre farm and regenerative vineyard. Meghan and her husband, Andy, live with their two young children on this hilly, high-elevation area of Willamette Valley dotted with forest, vines, Kunekune pigs, chickens, ducks, and dogs. But it wasn’t talk about wine and vineyards that brought us together over a communal dinner last spring, it was Spain. It was Europe. It was relocating to rural communities after living in big cities most of our lives. But, once I did learn about the vineyard, I had questions. Lots of them. How does a young family of three make the leap from DC to Willamette Valley? And how, now, does this family of four juggle it all? I sat down with Meghan earlier this week to talk about the ins and outs of starting a vineyard, running a farm, practicing regenerative viticulture, and…how she came to be growing Spanish grape varieties in the vineyard.
Kristys_Winetravels (KW): How did St. Merry Vineyard Come to Be?
Meghan Olivier (MO): (laughing) Well, Andy always jokes that as soon as we bought a house, I wanted a farm.
KW: Was farming always an interest?
MO: In DC I was a project manager for an international organization, and I was on the other side of the desk from these awesome projects where we’d send US farmers to other countries to learn and share. I started to realize I was more in love with the farming than being a desk worker. So, I became a hobby bee keeper. I had hives on a farm in Maryland and I loved it.
KW: So that was it? Bees to a vineyard!
MO: (laughing again) No, no. Andy is a city guy. I figured my bees were as close as I was going to get to a farm. Until a trip to San Diego for a friend’s wedding in 2012. As part of that trip, we booked a weekend in Temecula, California. We were burned out and stressed from the DC rat race, so we thought some time in wine country would be good. One day, as we sat looking out at the vineyards, Andy said, “This is the kind of farming I could do.” That was all I needed to hear. That day we went out and bought books, hatched a 10-year plan, struck up conversations with winemakers and growers, and started to look-up places I could go to school.
KW: You move fast! So how did you end up in Oregon only four years later?
MO: Well, our 10-year plan became a four-year plan. The cost of living in DC had become too much. I had my son in 2015, at the same time Andy’s job allowed him to work more remotely. It was a transitional time and I started to think about my Grandfather battling Parkinson’s, and how in his later years how he would always end conversations by saying, “Enjoy life.” He had worked hard all of his, always, and I knew he was saying this with a sense of regret - a regret I didn’t want. And so, we decided to put the house on the market. Knowing California was too expensive for us, we took a scouting trip to Willamette Valley and before we left, I was enrolled at Chemeketa Community College. Our house sold and we packed up when my son was 11 months old and moved to Salem.
KW: So, you completed a two-year wine program, had another baby and managed to find a vineyard?
MO: Sort of! We would take the kids driving - they would nap and we would scout land. We came across our property in 2018. The former owner had always envisioned a vineyard on the site. He had cleared and prepped the land, but he realized planting a vineyard in his 80s wasn’t the best idea. He was also hopeful that he would find buyers that needed the houses too - there are two on the property but several growers who viewed the property did not have anyone to live on site. We asked my mentor and professor, Jessica Cortell, to come see the property with us to get an opinion. Jessica not only taught viticulture at the time, but she managed some of the Valley’s top vineyards as well (still does). With her nod of approval, and Andy’s parents joining in to make it a family business, we had found our dream property. That September, the cover crop seeds were down, and the vines were ordered.
KW: When did the vines go in? Pinot and Chard?
MO: The first vines were planted in 2020 and we’ve planted continuously through to the spring of 2023. We started with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but now we also have Gamay, Mencia, and Albariño.
KW: The spring of ‘20? That was the fire season out here. How did that go?
MO: That was a surreal year. We really started to wonder how this was all going to turn out. Not only was it the fire year, but it was also Covid. So, we were all home, and the skies were a weird orange and it was so hot and dry. It was like we were living on scorched earth and we were so isolated. But I spent my time learning more about tractors and how to establish the vineyard. The vines were mostly ok, but we quickly learned how low-producing our well was, and how much water baby vines need. And, since I didn’t want to drain the aquifers, or put in a reservoir that could be a danger to my kids, that was another project - figuring out how to set up a rain water harvesting system.
So, now we have what I call the “shark tank.” It’s a large tank that’s fed by the rainwater collected off the barns and house. It’s so big and weighs so much when it’s full, that its concrete pad was required to be greatly reinforced by rebar to make it earthquake proof. It was definitely an expense we had not considered, but so was losing some of our vines. And when this is full, it’s enough to provide water to the vineyard once it is mature. At times it has even provided water to our house!
KW: I can’t even begin to imagine, but now about that Mencia and Albariño. Those are two unusual grapes for the area. How did you decide on those?
MO: We had a winemaker approach us about it, actually. He had been to Galicia, Spain and thought the land and climate was very similar to ours. He asked us if we’d consider planting them for him and not only did it make sense to us, but it sounded fun too!
KW: How would you describe your farming philosophy?
MO: I think I came into it not realizing I had one. I was doing organic gardening before, so I knew I wanted to continue with sustainability. And I really don’t like to kill things. I’m fascinated by the symbiosis of life - like if you kill off one thing, what impact does that have on everything else. But I’ve also learned that I can’t be too dogmatic. There are going to be issues that need to be addressed.
For example, in conventional farming – and in the first year of a vineyard – tilling is necessary to help loosen up the soil so the plants can take root, but turning up the soil felt like an aggressive approach to me and it kept the invasive weeds coming back. So, I started researching “no till farming,” and that ended up opening a Pandora’s box to regenerative farming for which there’s several tenets including: always leaving the land undisturbed and covered with living roots, incorporating animals, and increasing biodiversity all towards improving the health of the soil and ecosystem. The ethos fit. Now we have Kunekune pigs, ducks, and chickens that not only help manage invasive plants, but also increase the organic matter in the soils, and greatly increase its water retention capacity. They basically help the land to act like a sponge, which will eventually mean less watering.
KW: Okay, so now you’ve got a family, vines, pigs, dogs, ducks, and chickens. What does your typical day look like - if there is one?
MO: It depends on the season, but right now I drop the kids off at their summer camp or school, feed and settle the animals, and I scout the vineyards. I irrigate when necessary and do the mowing. As harvest approaches, I’ll be walking the rows a lot more. Then at night, I secure and feed the animals and let the dogs roam to keep them safe from predators. In the winter season, I spend more time with the animals. Basically, having a regenerative vineyard is like having another child. When it needs me, I have to be there - 24/7 and 365 days of the year. If it’s freezing and ice is covering the ground, or if I’m sick or just plain tired, the animals still need to be fed and the vines tended.
KW: Those are definitely challenges, so what are some of the surprising joys you’ve found?
MO: I loved planting the Albariño and Mencia. It’s cool to get to grow something so different and it’s gotten a lot of interest. I also like the way we farm with an ecological approach. I like rotating the animals to different parts of the property. It’s literally boots on the ground, and I get to know every corner of the land. I’ve discovered new plants, trees, and animals. One day, I saw an owl. The next day, in that same spot there was a red-shouldered hawk, and then that very next day it was a red-tailed hawk. Three days, same spot, three different birds of prey. It’s amazing to see the land come back to life.
KW: Alright, now that we’re talking joy, let’s get a little out of the box with some questions. What’s the last picture taken on your phone?
MO: Hmm. Probably one of the kids or the animals. (Looks at phone) Nope. It’s pictures of a cluster of grapes! I took this yesterday because some of the Pinot has started veraison*.
KW: Most used app on your phone?
MO: Instagram. For sure. It’s how I share about the vineyard, how we’re farming, and the grapes we have available. Know anyone that wants a small batch of Pinot grapes for a garage project? It’s all we have left!
KW: What’s a myth you’d like to bust?
MO: It may not exactly be a myth, but unlike with fresh fruits, he grapes aren’t washed before the wine is made. Whatever is on there, is on there. Everything sprayed - organic, biodynamic, or otherwise - has a window of time it needs to stop being sprayed before harvest for sure, but if you are someone who thinks a lot about what you are putting into your body, you may want to ask how your winegrapes are being farmed.
KW: Best Halloween costume you ever wore?
MO: (laughing again) I don’t know if it was the best, but I did win an award at the office that year. I was a honeybee complete with Andy’s onion slicing goggles. And there was the “waggle dance.” When honeybees swarm, they do a waggle dance to direct the queen where to go. And yeah, I did the dance. I think that’s what really won me the contest.
KW: Okay, rapid fire round! Where do you want to travel next?
MO: Patagonia
KW: Favorite childhood cartoon?
MO: DuckTales
KW: Favorite podcast?
MO: Beyond Organic Wine Podcast
KW: Would you rather meet a ghost or alien in the vineyard?
MO: A ghost
KW: Did you play sports growing up?
MO: I did. I played varsity softball until I was 16. Shortly after my braces came off that year, I took a grounder to the face and had to have dental work and stitches.
KW: The most useless skill you have?
MO: (laughing) Speaking fluent French.
KW: Well, maybe now that you have a vineyard in Willamette Valley it will come in handy!
MO: Actually, I randomly had an entire conversation on the phone in French yesterday. And I met a parent at the library’s story-time that spoke French. We’d speak to each other and our kids in French and it was so much fun! But it is hard to find people to practice with here.
KW: Favorite way to spend a Friday night?
MO: Not that I get to do this very much, but a night out with Andy and friends at a wine bar, talking and relaxing.
KW: What’s your guilty pleasure?
MO: Anything with chocolate. I’m eating a lot of that as harvest approaches. Ha!
KW: Okay, so what’s next for the future of St. Merry Vineyard?
MO: For now, I’m focused on getting it all up and running. Harvest is like planning a big event - that lasts for weeks. I’ve established some great partnerships and would like to keep fostering those and making new ones. It’s such a great community. Eventually, I’d love some goats to help thin out the 22 acres of woods. I’d love to make the forest a restored habit as well. But that’s definitely down the road.
KW: And what’s next for Meghan Olivier?
MO: I’m quite happy here doing my thing. I figured out what I like to do. And I’m enjoying life. Maybe someday I could enjoy life in Europe too. But for now, I’m in love with Oregon’s natural beauty, the coast, the mountains, the forests, and the climate. And although he is still a city personI think Andy is really enjoying life here too. We’re very lucky. Tired. But very lucky.
You can follow Meghan and family’s farming adventures @stmerryvineyard on Instagram (Which, if you’re curious, is named for Saint Mederic, who came to Paris on a pilgrimage and later died there in the year 700. In 884, Mederic was named the patron saint of the Right Bank - Rive Droite - and which was abbreviated to St. Merri. Meghan and Andy had a comically bad day there on their honeymoon - think Alexander and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day level - but it’s the story they always tell. And it reminds them of how life leads you on unexpected adventures that sometimes end up in a bit of merry-making!)
*Veraison is part of the ripening process of the grapes, when the changing of color occurs. Black grapes go from green to shades of purple. White grapes go from shades of green to more translucent shades of green, yellow, or gold.
In Production
A few updates to share here. While I’m made the decision to step out of wine production for the time being, I did have the opportunity to pop back in at Ricochet to check out the final Pinot blends from the 2023 harvest. My favorite from harvest has held…it’s still the one I’m most enamored with. I’m going to keep tracking it through bottling before I share. It’s got some time to rest yet. Then, I’ll tell you the story.
And in other news, for the next few months, you’ll catch me pouring the traditional method bubbles of Corollary Wines in Eola-Amity. The all-sparkling producer featured here before, is a team of two (three if you count me) and Dan and Jeanne are needed in the vines and cellar to begin the 2024 harvest and production. It’s a fun flip of the hat to be on the other side of the tasting table, and I couldn’t be more excited about the wines I’m pouring. I do kind of have a thing for bubbles, and these in particular. Besides, I couldn’t really sit out harvest altogether; although, I will miss the pigeage*! If you’re in the area, stop on out and see me for some of what I believe are among the best of Willamette Valley’s bubbles. And I’ve said that long before I worked here. 😉 p.s. Check-out the drone footage on their website’s homepage. This place is an architectural marvel with some stunning views!
*Pigeage, also known as punch down, is a winemaking process that involves breaking up and submerging the layer of grape skins, stems, and seeds that forms on the surface of fermenting red wine (known as the cap). The process is used to extract color, flavors, and tannins. It can be done manually or mechanically; and even with the feet!
Loved this, Kristy! That As Xaras is so dang tasty, when I was a wine rep it was part of my portfolio and what an easy sell!
Lucky you, that Fedellos is absolutely banging!