Roundabouts
Wine Travel Beyond the Socials
My need for travel is innate. But it hasn’t always been comfortable. Despite a need to see the world, wanting to do big things, and an ongoing desire to live like a nomad, I have also been prone to intense bouts of homesickness and malaise. Take the time I was in first grade (ish), I was very excited to go to a three-day summer camp with my best friend. I still remember packing my little bag and feeling like such a “big girl” to be going away on my own, but as soon as my mom and sister drove away, and my best friend was sorted into a different group, I lost my shit. I panicked. I cried. I wet the bed. I cried some more. I felt so small and lonely. I sulked through camp and sobbed myself to sleep all three nights.
Sure there were camp fires, crafts, and fun (all of which I remember proudly showing off to my mom when she picked me up, as if none of the aforementioned things had happened). But what I privately, and still remember, is my grip on the ropes crossing the wooden suspension bridge of death to the cafeteria, and how all I would eat was canned corn and applesauce, partly because I was a picky eater and also because they forgot about the dairy allergy I had at the time. There was also that time my camp counselor lodged our canoe in muck on the opposite side of the “lake” from whose waters I always emerged covered in a stubborn algae. But perhaps the most upsetting to my seven-year-old self, was when I lost my underwear on the way to the shower. I’m not sure what was most upsetting - that my name was in them, or that I had no clean undergarments. And yes, much to my horror, someone did return them to me the next day. You would think after this experience, I would never have left home again.
But for every sleepaway camp-like experience (imagined and realized), there are also the inspiring moments of random chance, unexpected adventures, and new discoveries. One of my most memorable came about on that 2016 family sabbatical I mentioned last week. We were visiting a winery in Ronda - in the Andalucía region of southern Spain - that we chose both for its Roman ruins (to entertain/educate the kids) and the visits available in English. As we were leaving, we asked our host for a lunch recommendation in the area. She couldn’t think of much that would be open, but made some calls and found a small, family winery that was willing to offer some lunch with a tasting. The owner spoke English and was on his way back from running errands, but his (Spanish-speaking) wife would welcome us in the meantime.
We arrived to a small, rural property, where Zabel kindly greeted us and led us to a great room where a small table had been set. We were all clumsy not knowing how to communicate past formalities, so Zabel had us sit while she went back to the kitchen. I remember the four of us looking around to each other as we nervously realized we were sitting in their home, and my husband and I sharing a look that said, “Well, this is either going to be really special, or weirdly uncomfortable.” Miguel returned in short order and was equally as gracious as Zabel. He began pouring wines and sharing the story behind each label - one based on his wife’s nickname. Each of the wines was crafted as a small batch and from international varieties grown on the property. As we were tasting, Zabel would silently swoop in with dishes of food - tomatoes and onions, olives, bread, tortilla Española, Jamón, cheeses, olive oils…it was a never-ending train of delectables. After at least an hour of feasting (my kids were in heaven), Zabel began clearing dishes and we began preparing to make our purchases and head home. Then out came Zabel from the kitchen with an iron skillet filled with paella. A true, homemade Spanish paella with meats, seafood, and that enviable socarrat.
Miguel and Zabel left us to eat, but later returned for dessert. And conversation. Hours of conversation. Zabel and I spoke together in broken versions of the other’s native language, but primarily in the common language of motherhood. We shared stories about Chicago and they talked about life in rural Ronda. At one point, Zabel, who’s children were grown, embraced mine as any good grandmother would, taking the kids on an adventure to discover the native wildlife in the backyard. By the time we left, we were past our clumsy niceties and embracing as friends. We returned the next day to bring them a few gifts from Chicago, after which we departed again with hugs, but this time also tears (well at least from Zabel, my daughter, and I).
This unexpected afternoon came to define our time in Spain - much like the Rioja wines that were the first to spark my passion for this fermented grape juice - unforgettable and fulfilling. And so it’s been since. Even with the occasional hiccup or road block along the way. Spain connected. Connects. It’s why it stays in my skin.
Now, much like the roads throughout Spain, wine discovery can be a series of roundabouts. Sometimes you get it right, sometimes you end up circling, sometimes you go wrong, and sometimes you lose your underwear on the way to the shower. But every time, you move forward taking with you all that came before, so here are a few wines that came before, and in my opinion deserve a circle back.
In My Glass
2023 Valle Reale Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC
My favorite white of the year (so far)…and it’s not what I expected. I’m guessing it’s not one you’d expect either. I opened this wine to do a quick tasting for this review, and well, it went from a tasting pour, to our dinner pairing (with steak over tomato risotto). Maybe I was just in the mood for a white that wasn’t a “usual suspect,” but this 2023 Valle Reale Trebbiano d’Abruzzo surprised and delighted. I’m generally a fan of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, but this one is a standout for its notable nuance. Florals, fruits, herbs, a flinty minerality, and a long finish - it felt good, tasted good, and I didn’t want it to end. If you told me a Trebbiano d’Abruzzo would stick in my memory, I’d probably say “yeah, I like those wines.” But to have a specific producer and bottle stay with me for weeks, well, that tells you everything. Stock up. Like really, Get Greedy. $20
2019 Vinedos del Jorco Las Cabañuelas
I’ve been on something of a Madrid Garnacha kick in the last few months. Okay, maybe I’ve been on that kick since my first taste of one in 2020, but seriously, these Garnachas are too delish to miss. I mean take this one from Raúl Pérez, Spain’s wizard of Mencia wines from the Bierzo region, he’s been dabbling with Garnacha in Madrid, and damn if he isn’t wielding his magical powers yet again.
This particular wine is made with grapes grown organically and biodynamically (although not certified) in the sandy, granite, and slate soils typical of the Cebreros pocket of the Madrid DO. It’s fermented with native yeasts in concrete and then aged for six months in neutral French oak. It’s juicy and crunchy, but with more finesse than I typically associate with those descriptors. It’s fruit forward, floral, and of course loaded with that ethereal minerality that I crave from this region, but the real wizardry is its price point. Accio. $16
2024 Comm. G.B. Burlotto, Verduno Pelaverga
Let’s take a walk on the wild side of Piemonte. I’m not talking Nebbiolo, or even Arneis. This my daring darlings, is Pelaverga, a dark-skinned grape found in relatively small quantities in Piemonte, Italy, and primarily in the Verduno Pelaverga DOC. The wines are often described as sharing similarities with Pinot Noir - lighter body and color, with softer tannins, and hints of strawberries. Interestingly, I likened this bottle more to a Blaufränkisch owing to its prominent spicy, black peppery overtones, which I loved. It did, however, denote more red than black fruits, with some herbs, and minerals too, and it was light, bright, and most certainly quickly disappearing. Go wild. $32
Bonus bubbles! It is Valentine’s tomorrow after all. Plus, it’s never a bad time for Champagne, especially from the 5th-oldest house in the region. Delamotte, founded in 1860, is located in the Côte des Blancs in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, which is the origin of this NV brut rosé. A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced from Grand Cru vineyards, this pink drink is made via the traditional saignée method. I’m a big fan of the depth and complexity a saignée rosé can bring. It’s bold, rich, zippy, supple, and brimming with red berries, tangerine, spice, and minerality, and it’s made for cozy evenings and canoodling. Be mine. $98
In the Spotlight
For context, Spain has around 70 wine Denominaciones de Origen (DO) and two Denominaciones de Origen Calificada (DOCa) and it’s been growing grapes for around 3,000 years. It’s also the third largest country in Europe, and it leads both France and Italy in area under vine with 2.4 million planted acres. That said, fewer vines are planted per acre to manage yields and water stress, so it actually comes in at third in overall wine production. And although difficult to state definitively, it has around 200 indigenous grape varieties, with 20 of the varieties (both native and international) making up 89% of the grapes grown and wines made. Spain is also the 2nd highest country in elevation in Europe with almost half covered by the Meseta, a large central plateau. It has one of the most diverse climates in Europe ranging from maritime and Mediterranean to continental. There are areas of heavy rainfall, deserts, places with extremely hot summers and cold winters, and those that maintain more moderate temperatures. And as you might imagine, with such geological and climatic diversity, there are quite a range of different soils too, running the gamut from metamorphic (shale, slate, and schist), to sedimentary (limestone, chalk, clay, sand, and alluvial), and volcanic (including granite).
In other words, there is a lot to dive into, but this week, we’re going to dive into its leading wine region and its first DOCa: Rioja.
Wine Region of the Week
Based along the Ebro River, 60 miles south of Bilboa and 210 miles north of Madrid, Rioja was one of Spain’s first wine producing regions dating back more than 3,000 years. It was also the first DO, established in 1925, and the first DOCa, since 1991. Rioja encompasses all or parts of three autonomous communities (think of them like provinces or states) including La Rioja, Navarra, and Basque Country. It is also broken down into three grape growing/wine producing sub-zones: Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta, and Rioja Oriental (formerly Rioja Baja). The region is bordered by mountains to the north and south which protect it from harsh weather, and it ranges between 985 to 2950 feet in elevation with soils classified into three types: calcareous clay, ferrous clay, and alluviums.
Across Rioja, 165,000+ acres are planted to vine, of which 91% are red grape varieties. There are 14 approved varieties in total with only five, surprisingly, being red. Tempranillo of course making up 88% of the plantings, but you’ll also find Garnacha Tinta, Mazuelo (Carignan), Graciano, and Maturana Tinta. For the white grapes, Viura (Macabeo) is predominant, but with white wine production on the rise, you’ll also find Verdejo, Tempranillo Blanco, Malvasia, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Garnacha Blanca, Maturano Blanca, and Turrentés (Albillo Mayor). Wine styles here include a diverse range of reds, rosés, whites, and even sparkling all of which are bottled under four wine classifications, which we’ll get into below.
In Context
Rioja Alta
Rioja Alta is one of the three sub-zones of Rioja. It sits in the westernmost portion of the region, with the Ebro River to the north. It is generally a cooler region influenced by the Atlantic with significant diurnal temperature swings and elevations between 1300 and 1950 feet. The soil here is limestone-clay, although less rich in limestone than in Rioja Alavesa, ferrous clay, and alluvial with iron throughout giving the soils a more orangish-reddish coloring. Rioja Alta has a long history of winemaking and viticulture going back into the 18th century in one of its key cities, Cenicero. The other key city in Rioja Alta is Haro, which is home to the Haro Oenological Station, established in 1892, and many renowned wineries including La Rioja Alta S.A., Bodega Muga, Lopez de Heredia, CVNE, Bodegas Bilbainas, Bodega Roda, and of course, Lopez de Heredia.
Rioja Alavesa
Rioja Alavesa sits in the western part of the Rioja region with the Ebro River to the south and the Sierra de Cantabria mountain range to the north. It is planted to 33,900 acres of vines and encompasses 18 municipalities. Laguardia, a medieval, fortified city of 1,500 inhabitants, is the key city of the region. Rioja Alavesa is defined by its rugged terrain and higher altitude. Its soils are a mix of clay, iron, limestone, and like the Rioja Alta zone, it sees more of a climatic influence from the Atlantic Ocean than Rioja Oriental. The wines from this area of Rioja are generally described as classic, elegant wines with higher acidity and fine tannins, and the ability to age extensively. Here are some producers to note: Marqués de Riscal, Bodegas Bideona, Sierra de Toloño, Bodegas Aiurri, Ysios, and Bodegas Amaren.
Rioja Oriental
Rioja Oriental (formerly Rioja Baja) is the largest and easternmost sub-zone of Rioja. It extends southeast from Logroño to the town of Alfaro and sits mostly south of the Ebro River, with a small portion to the north. Rioja Oriental has a more Mediterranean influenced climate than the other sub-zones with very dry and warm summers. The soils here are primarily silt and alluvial with ferrous clay and small amounts of chalk with most vineyards between 980 and 1300 feet. But despite its textbook reputation, Rioja Oriental also has vineyards going up to 2900 feet with some of the coldest climates in Rioja. For the grapes, Garnacha is widely planted here, but you’ll also find many white varieties as well as Tempranillo, Graciano, and Mazuelo among others. With around 36,000 acres of vines, Rioja Oriental is home to 94 wineries and several co-operatives. They are also responsible for about 40% of Rioja’s wines owing to the many grapes from the sub-region being used in blends from wineries across Rioja. Wineries of note include: Palacios Vinos de Finca, Finca Vistahermosa, Arizcuren, Carlos Mazo Gutiérrez, and Bodegas Queirón.
In the Spotlight Cont.
Winery of the Week
You’re likely familiar with the labels of Marques de Riscal, or perhaps it’s iconic hotel designed by the late Frank Gehry, but did you know it’s considered the first winery in Rioja and that it houses a bottle of every vintage since its first release in 1862?
Marqués de Riscal was founded in 1858 by D. Guillermo Hurtado de Amézaga and his son, Camilo Hurtado de Amézaga. Guillermo, holding the hereditary noble title of the Marqués de Riscal, was originally from Spain’s Basque Country. He was living in Bordeaux when he inherited land from his sister in Elciego, Spain within the Rioja Alavesa zone of what is today the Rioja DOCa. Prior to her passing, his sister, Marceliana Hurtado de Amezaga, had been making wine from the property’s vineyards - early drinking wines for local consumption as was the fashion. In fact, it was so on trend, that it was in oversupply and the local government was trying to resolve the problem by finding solutions to both aging and selling wine. It was for these reasons, Guillermo sent his son Camilo, a journalist with many diplomatic connections, to oversee a new winery and its operations. This was the beginning of Herederos del Marqués de Riscal.
Camilo relocated from Bordeaux to Elciego within the province of Álava where he hired Jean Pineau, an oenology expert from Bordeaux to demonstrate to the local government the Bordeaux methods for aging wines. It was during this time, Rioja began to adopt the French methods of both aging wines in 225-liter French barrels, as well as bottles stored horizontally. After working alongside Jean Pineau, Camilo not only incorporated these aging methods at Marqués de Riscal, he also brought in the first 9,000 French vines to Rioja, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which he had planted at the estate. As production ramped up, a new space for the aging wines was needed, and so Camilo built a new winery modeled after those in Bordeaux (which also included an onsite cooperage for making barrels). He then bottled his first vintage under the Marqués de Riscal label in 1862, making them the first wines ever bottled in Rioja.
Now, as you might imagine, these “aged” wines were vastly different (and more expensive) than the typical wines of the time. They quickly became favored by Spain’s noble class, and gained even more notoriety after becoming the first non-French wine to win a Diploma of Honor at the 1895 Bordeaux Exhibition. As such, Camilo not only began developing expansive distribution networks for exporting the wines, he also commissioned the use of gold mesh netting for their bottles to ensure authenticity and help prevent fraudulent imitations.
Today, the grapes used to make Marqués de Riscal’s Rioja DOCa wines are grown on 3,700 acres in Elciego and the neighboring villages within Rioja Alavesa including Leza, Laguardia, and Villabuena. The soils, from the various terraces above the Ebro River, are generally chalky clay, producing grapes with notable acidity and structure. The winery currently offers 12 labels of Rioja DOCa wines, including two rosés as well as wines across each of the classifications (Genérico to Gran Reserva). They also continue to export 60% of their wines, which are available in more than 110 countries.
Recommended wines: I’d highly recommend exploring the range, but if you’re looking for a few options, I’d say either the Reservas or Gran Reserva for a traditional taste of Rioja, and the Barón de Chirel for a more modern take on the classic style.
Fun fact: Marqués de Riscal also makes white wines from Rueda, where they were instrumental in establishing the renowned white wine D.O. in 1980.
In the Moment
During Rioja Camp, I had the opportunity to taste a vertical of Marqués de Riscal’s “Barón de Chirel” label, a more modern take on Rioja’s traditional wines, developed in 1986 in response to worldwide interest in fine wines from the region. This wine is crafted from vines aged between 80-110 years in Rioja Alavesa at elevations around 1500-feet, and is a blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon (the percentages are variable by vintage). The inclusion of Cabernet Sauvignon is a nod to the Médoc Reservas produced in the winery’s early days, but with today’s more expert winemaking. It’s also permitted in the DOCa as a special exception given the winery’s history in the region. The wines, which age in 225-liter French oak for around 20 months, are meant to showcase the identity of Marqués de Riscal as well as both the traditionality and modernity of Rioja.
The wines I had the privilege of tasting ranged from 2016 to 1995, and honestly, it’s difficult to find the words to describe this experience. The Barón de Chirel is a complex, structured wine which in its youth demonstrates a richness of fruit, well-integrated oak, sweet tannins, and the vibrancy characteristic of Rioja Alavesa. While it’s hard to resist opening the current release of these wines, patient cellaring brings incredible rewards - the goosebumpy, ethereal kind. As proven by this tasting, Barón de Chirel can age for decades, but honestly, anywhere from six to 10 years after the vintage is generally considered ideal. That said, my favorites from this tasting were undoubtedly the 2004, 1996, and 1995. The 1995 was admittedly past prime, but my goodness, when a wine is still that good after 30 years…whether it was the best or not, it was an absolute honor.
In the Room Where It Happened
Have you ever seen a bottle of wine opened with hot tongs that slice cleanly through the glass?
This process of opening a wine bottle can be referred to as thermal shock or Port-tonging. The practice began in Portugal in the 18th century as a way to open old Port bottles whose corks were too brittle for a regular corkscrew. Basically, specialized metal tongs, known as Tenaz in Portugal, are heated in a fire or with a torch until red-hot and then clamped around the neck of the bottle for between 20-30 seconds. A cold, wet cloth or brush, as seen in the video above, is then applied to the heated area as soon as the tongs are removed. That rapid temperature change breaks the glass cleanly at the site and keeps the cork from coming into contact with the wine.
In Practice
Since Rioja wines, and Ribera del Duero wines as pictured below, are known to age for decades, it’s not uncommon to come across back vintages, so here’s something to keep in mind should you be considering making a purchase: ullage. As wine ages in bottle, small amounts are lost to evaporation through the cork, leaving an increasing amount of space between the wine and the cork. This gap, or fill level, is known as ullage. Note the red line drawn on the photo below.
While ullage is a natural occurrence, a low ullage can indicate seepage and oxidation of the wine. In general, for wines in Bordeaux-shaped bottles (such as those typically used in Rioja), a fill line around the base of or into the neck of the bottle is considered ideal at any age. A wine level at the very top of the shoulder of the bottle is considered excellent for wines around 20 years old, while levels slightly lower at the top of the shoulder are normal for wines 15 years and older, but are considered excellent for those 35 years and older. But not to fear, even a mid-shoulder fill level for bottles 40 years and older is considered normal. Of course, there’s always risk when acquiring back vintages, especially when the provenance and storage of the bottle is unknown. That said, it can also be a lot of fun, and occasionally even inducing of one of those goosebump, pinch-me moments.
In Brief (ish)
The amount of quality control that goes into every bottle of Rioja DOCa wine is both impressive and astounding, as well as overseen by a regional Control Board. This is not a region that cuts corners, and it’s not one that is going to put its brand on a label unless the provenance and quality are tested and proven.
The Rioja DO was established in 1925 and became Spain’s first DOCa in 1991. It remains one of only two in the country (Priorat being the other). To become a DOCa a region must have maintained DO status for a minimum of 10 years and it must undergo annual sensory tests on the wines as well as adhere to strict regulations as established by the regional Control Board. The Rioja DOCa encompasses 144 municipalities across La Rioja, Navarra, and Basque Country. To use the Rioja DOCa name, all vineyards must be registered with the Control Board and maintain planting density between 2,850 to 10,000 vines per hectare. Only the 14 approved grape varieties are permitted for use (excepting rare and special circumstances like in the case of Cabernet Sauvignon at Marqués de Riscal). The Control Board also dictates the number of buds permitted per vine - Garnacha Tinta and Blanca are allowed 14 buds, the other grape varieties are allowed 12 max - as well as the number of kilograms per hectare, 6,500kg/ha for red grapes and 9,000 kg/ha for white grapes.
In addition to vineyard planting and vine management regulations, the Control Board also produces reports to help growers determine the timing of harvest. Each grower is required to notify the Control Board within 48-hours of a pick to be included in the DOCa, and must present their Grape Growers Card to the Control Board at the pick. The Grape Growers Card is a smart card which records weights, quality, potential alcohol levels, and tracks the transport of the grapes from vineyard to the winery. There are a number of additional requirements and regulations at this stage and prior to which an affidavit must be submitted post-harvest by November 30th. But that name assurance is not done yet, at the winery all wine movement is tracked electronically to ensure authenticity and provenance. Additionally, to use the Rioja DOCa label, samples of each wine to be included must be sent to the Control Board for testing between December 1st and February 28th. Five tasters, overseen by the Control Board, assess the wine’s alcohol, acidities, sulfur dioxide levels, sugar, density, dry extract, color index, and polyphenol index. The tasters then determine if the wine is Rioja DOCa quality as well as then publish the Official Vintage Rating for the region overall.
Like I said, there are no corners cut in assuring the quality behind wines labeled with Rioja DOCa, which must also include the wine’s classification and the optional classification of origin on each label - which provides us with information on exactly what’s in the bottle. Here are the wine classifications to know and what they mean:
Guarantee of Origin/Genérico - guarantees origin and vintage (green label)
Crianza - must see 12 months in barrel and can only be released two years after harvest (red label)
Reserva - need a minimum of 12 months in barrel, six months in bottle and 36 months prior to release (garnet label)
Gran Reserva - must go for 24 months in oak, 24 months in bottle, with a minimum of 60 months prior to release (blue label)
As for those optional classifications of origin, there are three permitted for use:
Viñedo Singular - single vineyard or parcel with a minimum vine age of 35 years and must be Rioja DOCa accredited for 10 years
Viños de Pueblo - all grapes are exclusive to one village
and Vinos de Zona - the grapes are exclusively from one of Rioja’s 3 zones.
It may seem like a lot to take in at first, but really once you look at a label or two it becomes clear. And really the most important thing to remember is:
If it says Rioja DOCa, it’s going to be a quality wine. Now whether it suits your palate is another question, but they most certainly do right by me.
In the Know
Rioja sells around 328 million bottles of wine globally each year - in around 136 countries! It’s largest markets are the UK, the U.S., Netherlands, and Germany.
Rioja is home to 528 wineries, 13,078 growers, and over 1.3 million barrels. Of the 528 wineries, 214 of them are open to the public and see nearly one million visitors each year (36% of which are international visitors).
In the Hopper
Well, that’s a lot to digest this week. Take your time, reread it, save it for future reference, and of course share it with anyone you think might find it useful or just enjoy reading it. In the next issue, believe it or not, there will be even more Rioja! I’m also working on a special feature article about Cab Franc you won’t want to miss. As always, thank you for reading, sharing, and supporting my work, and if you have any questions or there are any topics you’d love to know more about, I’m only a message away. Cheers and ciao!
P.S. You can find a few of my recommended Rioja wines available in my most recent wine guide
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Can I have a WOW!
Love the personal history! It is so important to have that perspective sometimes