Although there have been a few hundred wines in my glass this past week, most of what was actually consumed were Coronas and Mezcal. Viva México! But here are a few of the wines that did go down:
In My Glass
2022 La Santísima Trinidad Vino Espumoso Rosé Metodo Charmat Brut
Okay, so this Mexican wine isn’t going to compare to good Cava or traditional method sparkling wines, it is a tank method bubbly after all, but it is damn drinkable, more vibrant than many Proseccos, and perfect for summer. It’s crunchy red fruits and light fizz make for a good starter, sushi wine, or late night solo sipper under the stars by the fire pit. I’d also happily pop this in my beach bag and head to the coast for some surf, sun, picnic, and frisbee action. It’s clean, it’s simple, but it’s also tasty and just all around happy. Olé. $499 (pesos) or $27 USD
I saw this Grenache-Carignan wine hailing from the Rhône’s region of Ventoux on the by-the-glass list at Portland’s OK Omens restaurant, and after having recently attended a Ventoux selection dinner at the Hospices du Rhone, I knew what I had to do. In short, you should too. This wine was listed under the “chillable reds” and was perfectly matched with the crispy duck leg cured in 6 spices and served over red wine braised flageolet beans and lardons with sauce verte. The organically and biodynamically farmed, partial carbonic wine, aged in 100-year old Spanish amphora had the right combination of red fruit, brushy herbs, and that southern French garrigue with a lively acidity. Naturally good. $24
Albeit young and bold if you’re not going to pair it with food, and instead sip it poolside at 1 a.m. with wine loving friends from around the world. This wine is a Syrah lover’s dream. It’s a classic, full-bodied Syrah with notable elegance owing to the fresh acidity and well-balanced tannins. It’s black fruit and olive driven, with aromatic highlights of wild flowers, graphite, and a lengthy finishing flavor of black pepper. In other words, fruity, savory, spicy, briny, and oh, so good. Tenacious. $90
NV Cava 57 Palomas Brut Nature
After sampling this traditional method, brut nature (aka no dosage) sparkling wine at the Vive el Vino tasting in León, Mexico this week, I bought two bottles. A blend of the traditional Spanish Cava grapes, this fresh apple and citrus-driven sparkler is made just north of Mexico City in the Querétaro region and its every bit as good as a high-quality Spanish Cava. It was crisp, dry, fresh and cleansing - particularly after the snack of roasted crickets. If you can get past the fact that they are six-legged creatures, they’re not half bad (especially with garlic). Plus, when in Rome (or León), live adventurously! But I digress, whether you’re eating bugs or not, this wine is a win for Mexico in my book. Crispy. $25
In the Spotlight
Region of the Week - Ventoux, Rhone Valley, France
Welcome to the Southern Rhône’s coolest microclimate, Ventoux AOC. Viticulture in the Ventoux dates back to ancient times and it is also where the first known wine amphorae in France were produced in the 1st century BC. The Ventoux AOC sits in the southeastern region of France within the Rhône Valley, nearby to Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, spanning across 51 communes in the Vaucluse, bordered in the south by the Calavon.
More than 6,600 hectares of vineyards are planted in Ventoux at varying altitudes ranging from 200 to 600 meters. Those elevations combined with the Mistral wind contribute to Ventoux being relatively cool compared to surrounding areas in the Rhône Valley, which has a beneficial effect on the vines including very late grape ripening, higher natural acidity levels, and notable freshness and balance in the finished wines. Ventoux's terroir is also influenced by the proximity to the Mediterranean and the sheltering effect of Mont Ventoux, which towers above at 1900 meters and is listed as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The soils here range from limestone and clay, to sand and gravel, and rounded cobblestones.
As for the grapes found here, the region is predominantly known for its red wines of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, with Cinsault and Carignan occasionally along for the ride. And while red wine accounts for 58% of production, rosé and white wines are also found.
In the Room Where It Happened
This past week I was honored to attend the Red & White session for the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles as one of 300 tasting judges from 45 countries around the globe. The annual event was held in North America for the first time since the competition’s founding in 1994, in the wine region of Guanajuato, Mexico. Our collective task: to professionally, honestly, and meticulously judge 7,000 wines from 30 countries around the world.
Facts
The Concours Mondial is an international wine competition, founded by the publisher of the Belgian publication Revue Belge des Vins, Louis Havaux (who incidentally celebrated his 89th birthday during the competition - Happiest Louis!). The first event attracted more than 850 wine entries from 29 countries. Today, the Concours Mondial is split into four sessions - Red & White, Rosé, Sparkling, and Sweet Wines - assessing more than 9,000 wines from around the globe.
The competition itself is organized rigorously and professionally (for years) with the profile of each judge being carefully reviewed. The selected diverse group of international wine professionals then taste the wines blind, independently assessing each on its merits. In other words, not personal preference, but rather a typicity, style, and quality assessment. And to ensure integrity, the results are then monitored by the Statistics Institute of the Catholic University in Louvain prior to the awarding of medals.
Process
The Red & White session takes place over three consecutive days of blind tasting. Five judges are seated at each numbered table, and in most cases represent five different countries. A table captain is pre-selected by the Concours Mondial and seated at the head of the table. It is the captain’s job to assist new judges, ensure the wines are in correct order, not faulty, that the review process keeps pace, request second bottles if necessary, and to submit the table’s collective scores.
Tasting begins with the presentation of one to two wines to be assessed by the entire room together as calibration wines. The wines are carried out by a processional of sommeliers, set to music, and poured simultaneously. The pomp and circumstance of the moment is palpable and establishes the tone for the significance of the next four hours. As the sommelier presents the wine, he/she introduces themself as the table host and discusses pacing and protocol with the captain. For instance, does the captain want all three wine glasses filled at once, will breaks be planned, etc. Once the group’s collective scores and wine are revealed, the official judging begins.
Each table is responsible for assessing between 45-50 wines per day in a roughly four hour time span. The wines are poured in flights of varying numbers, beginning with the whites. The variety, region, and style are unknown. The only information presented is the vintage. The professional assessment, completed on a touch-screen device, includes a numeric scale for sight, smell, taste, and overall quality with multiple sub-categories within each for intensity, condition, quality, and persistence. Additionally, each judge is asked to record professional tasting notes via keyboard prior to submitting the results for review by the table captain.
Once the individual results are submitted to the table captain, the process varies slightly based on the captain’s methodology. For my table, our captain shared the scores with the judges. If we were all within the same range, we confirmed that a medal (siler, gold or grand gold) was deserving or not. If the scores ranged significantly, a brief discussion was held as to why we voted as we did and whether or not a medal was indeed deserved or not. Typically scores are not changed unless a mistake was made. In most cases, the captain is ascertaining if the scorer has a valid reason for the rating. At this point, the group scores are submitted and the panel moves onto the next wine. This process is repeated at least 45 times (with the occasional break for espresso, a small beer, or a brief refresh).
In the rare case of a faulty wine, or a wine that is perceived by the table or a panelist as faulty, a second bottle can be requested. In our case, we requested the review of a second wine for three bottles, which was then re-presented at the end of that flight. If it is better, the judges continue with the rating. If it is not, the judges have two options: to reject the wine or to rate the wine with the understanding it might be a winemaking style (as in the case of volatile acidity or oxidation). For my table, two of the second bottlings were improved and rated accordingly. In the other case, we determined it was likely the winemaking style and proceeded with our rating as well.
At the conclusion of each day, the scores and tasting notes are printed for each individual taster along with the wine reveal. The sheets also indicate how you fared with the repeat wine, of which there was typically one (unknowingly) per day. This system is part of ensuring the accuracy and consistency of the results. The next stage of the process is where technology takes over. The scores are analyzed, assessed, and tabulated for not only the awarding of the coveted medals, but also to create individual tasting wheels for each wine, which are then shared with the producer to assist with their marketing efforts. Additionally, each judge will receive the collective results as well as an assessment of their individual results.
(BTS: the sommelier and volunteers also work tirelessly throughout the tasting, emptying spittoons, refreshing water bottles, pouring the next wines, keeping the bread rolls fresh and plentiful, and napkins at hand. And when the day is done, they clear the table and ready it for reset for the next day. The workload is large. The task is big. And the patience, skill, and enthusiasm - well, they are all in abundance. This team is trained, professional, and not without grace.)
Impressions
Let me start off by saying that I’m not necessarily a fan of wine ratings. The traditional point system, in my opinion, ranges from highly flawed and biased, to completely subjective. That said, if you find an individual reviewer that tends to align with your palate, that can certainly be helpful in shopping for bottles.
I do, however, find ratings from (most) competitions, to be more valuable. The wines are tasted blind, by professionals, and rated according to quality vs. preference. Does this mean you’ll love every wine awarded a medal? Of course not. But it does mean every wine awarded is of high quality and typical of the style or region; giving not only the shopper a sense of confidence, but the winery a useful marketing tool.
And in the case of the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, the extra levels of independent review and analysis, and the methodological rigor of the program are second to none. The tasters include buyers, importers, writers, sommeliers, and educators with years of experience and well-established credibility. But perhaps of even more importance and further lending to the value of the Concours Mondial, is the level of diversity represented at the tables. At this year’s event, not only were there judges from 45 different nationalities, but also varied age ranges, genders, and career expertise. Everyone is coming to the table with a base knowledge in wine and tasting, but also with an understanding of trends, tastes, preferences, and wines available to them through the course of life and work. It allows for a valuable cross-section of assessment. And that is why this competition is of the greatest significance to many wineries around the world, and why the symbol of the Concours Mondial on awarded bottles is trusted by shoppers.
In my opinion, this competition is one of the most fastidious in the world with an unmatched level of professionalism, integrity, and verifiable accuracy. And it was an absolute honor to participate.
In the Moment
It wasn’t all work at the Concours Mondial. The event also combines a rich cultural immersion in the host city and region. Each afternoon at the conclusion of the tasting, attendees were treated to lunch, shows, and toured through local wineries and villages. The community puts its best foot forward to showcase their history, culture, cuisine, drinks/wines, and stories, which in this case tied the community’s wine culture to its independence.
North America’s first vines were planted here in the Guanajuato region of Mexico. As Mexican wine grew in popularity in the 18th and 19th centuries, Spain asserted more and more state control and regulations by way of the King’s orders. But it wasn’t all about wine. As in any revolution, many other social, economic, and political factors were at play. Tensions were growing and many Mexicans began pushing for social justice and freedom from the “mother” country.
One such social justice crusader, Miguel Hidalgo, a well-respected local clergyman from the town of Dolores was also a grape grower and winemaker. He was a community leader, helping others to grow and establish vineyards and wineries. However, when the Spanish vice king of the region got wind of Miguel’s work as a social justice fighter, he ordered his troops to burn Miguel’s crops - in September - the very heart of harvest! Well, that was the last straw for many of the locals and from that moment, led by Miguel, they declared their independence with the cry of “Grito de Dolores!” And so began the Mexican battle for freedom from Spain.
To this day, the president of the republic shouts a version of “el Grito” from the balcony of the National Palace in Mexico City, “Viva México! Viva la Independencia! Vivan los héroes!” And now, as Mexican wine is once again on the rise, with the region of Guanajuato as one of its leading areas, you can find the Ruta del Vino here in the “Valle de Independencia,” where the history of Mexican wine and freedom are on display with pride.
In Box
You asked: How do you travel with wine?
On most of my international travels, I bring my 12-bottle wine suitcase from VinGuardeValise. I typically pack a few local and domestic bottles to share on these trips, and then replace those bottles with the new discoveries made. The suitcase when full sits just under the 50-pound weight limit for checked bags (before they tack on the extra charges $$). And yes, it is allowed to transport wine for personal consumption without having to declare the value (provided it’s under $1,600). In many cases, I also travel with a few wine sleeves, which I then wrap in clothes for extra protection. These are also useful if I don’t feel like taking the big bag, or I know I won’t have the opportunity to bring back more than a few bottles. Happy travels (and never underestimate the value and appreciation of a shared bottle from your home country with others)!
In the Hopper
We’re not done with highlights from the Concours Mondial! Later this week, we’re going to touch on some of the wines and regions I experienced, including Mexican wines, Chinese wines, Moldovan wines, and more. I’m also working on a downloadable rosé guide and a few features stories. Thank you for subscribing and reading my weekly newsletter. If you like what you see, I’d be honored if you’d spread the word. Cheers!
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