Full of Sediment
Wine Travels Beyond the Socials
A full one this week — in every sense of the word.
In My Glass
2021 Chateau Simone Palette Blanc
This is perhaps the most unique and beguiling white to grace my palate this year. A rare find - at least stateside - a white Provence wine largely derived from Clairette but blended with Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Bourboulenc, Muscat Blanc, Picpoul, Furmint, and Sémillon, some from vines over 150 years old. The aromas were ethereal - wax, orange blossom, minerals, and stone fruit - and the flavors were an exquisite intermingling of minerality, baked apple, and lemon peel with herbal undertones and a hint of oxidation for a nutty, but lifted finish. But while all of that is very well and good, it was the sumptuous, rounded texture with a counter-balancing electricity that made this wine one I wanted in my mouth again and again. A pegasus. $65
Ah, Madrid. I picked it up right out of the gate, or glass rather - that illustrious, deeply mineral, earthy and grounded aroma that sends chills down my spine, and that only comes from the Sierra de Gredos Garnacha. It’s magical and mysterious. At least to me. I’m utterly spellbound. And while some of this region’s wines can be an acquired taste to the masses - or at least a jarring, initial surprise - Rico Nuevo is an entry-level gateway, leading with crunchy red fruits and a subtle florality. Its juicy, easy flavors will bring you in, but it’s likely going to be that terroir-defining minerality, expressed here as an elusive backdrop, that keeps these mountains calling. John Muir. $23
2021 Marius by M. Chapoutier Vin de Pays d’Oc Rouge
I love when a bottle unexpectedly wows. My experience with M. Chapoutier wines is consistently positive, but this wine delivered quality and a hot-damn deliciousness at quite the value. Now, you’re not going to confuse it for a premium, fine wine, but for what it is - a carefree, easy-drinker - it will not only satisfy, but please. It’s dark-fruited, savory, spicy, and meaty, and delivers a gracefully bold wine that pairs solidly with a white bean and sausage stew while streaming The Pitt. Scrub in. $15 (for vintage 2024)
In the Spotlight
Wine Region of the Week
The Languedoc is France’s largest wine-producing region, with roughly one-third of all French wines produced here. The Languedoc is home to 23 appellations, including Minervois, situated just north of Corbières in the foothills of the Black Mountains within the Massif Central. The appellation is home to 24 villages divided into five climatic zones ranging from cool and Atlantic-influenced to dry and Mediterranean: the Côtes Noires, La Clamoux, La Zone Centrale, Le Causse, and Les Serres. The soils of Minervois are highly diverse, featuring a mosaic of limestone, clay, shale, schist, sandstone, and quartz, often covered in stony, heat-retaining gravels.
The majority of wine production in Minervois (90%) is red, led by Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Lledoner Pelut as well as Carignan, Cinsault, Piquepoul, Terret, and Rivairenc. But since this is the Languedoc with its rebellious and experimental nature, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir will also be found. The appellation also allows for rosé and white wines, and it requires all wines be blended from at least two grape varieties. Minervois is known for its old, low-yielding vines, which produce supple wines with dense character and rich flavors, particularly from the area’s single cru appellation, Minervois La Livinière.
Winery of the Week
Last summer I visited the Languedoc - my favorite French region outside of Champagne - for the third time, and had my first introduction to Château de Fauzan. Located 31 miles from the Mediterranean in the aforementioned Minervois, on a clay-limestone plateau at an altitude of 1,150 feet, Château de Fauzan was founded by the Bourrel family, who moved to the area in 1956.
It wasn't wine that originally brought the family to Fauzan, but Albert Bourrel's passion for trout fishing. Fortunately for us, the family took to wine, and today the vineyard and winery are run by Albert's grandson Jean-Philippe and his family. The estate vineyard overlooks the lower Minervois plains with a backdrop of the Montagne Noir and is planted to Syrah, Carignan, Chardonnay, Cinsault, Grenache, and Pinot Noir. Jean-Philippe crafts high-altitude wines showcasing the minerality of the rugged soils and a freshness derived naturally from the region’s climate - a not-to-miss producer in Minervois. Public visits are welcome.
Recommended wines: While I enjoyed all the wines I tasted, none stayed with me quite like the Cuvée Albert Cru de La Livinière - a tribute to Grandfather Albert and 100% Syrah. It was rich, savory, and mineral-laden, with deep, dark fruit flavors and a lingering finish — and a lasting memory.
In Depth
Aligoté is a white grape with origins in the Bourgogne region of France. It’s commonly referred to as the “other Bourgogne grape,” as it sits in the shadow of white Burg star, Chardonnay. Like Chardonnay, Aligoté traces its lineage to Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc and can grow in a variety of soil types. It is an early-ripening grape and is well-suited to climate change in many regions. It's known for its high acidity and vigorous vines, though with widely varying yields. Wines produced from Aligoté are generally dry, with floral and herbal notes. When fully ripened, the grape can produce whites with verve, depth, and exceptional balance. It is produced both as a single-varietal wine and used in blends to lend acidity and aroma to richer, less-structured wines. It is grown throughout Bourgogne and in parts of the United States, but has a particularly significant presence in Eastern Europe.
In Production
On any given weekend in the Willamette Valley, you can likely find a themed walk-around tasting. I recently poured wines (under the wing of the Spruce Goose) at the McMinnville Food & Wine Classic and am currently planning the upcoming Chehalem Mountains AVA tasting, Magic in the Mountains, for May 30th.
Other upcoming events include a few AVA tastings (Yamhill-Carlton and Eola-Amity Hills), Method Oregon, and one of my particular favorites - highlighting small, independent wineries - the Indie Wine Mixer. Varietal tastings have also come onto the scene, including those dedicated to Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, and Malbec, and of course there’s the anything-BUT-Pinot tasting, the Alt Wine Fest. New to the mix this year is the recently announced Aligoté Affair.
Dedicated entirely to Aligoté, this debut Willamette Valley event marks the first of its kind in the United States focused solely on the “other white grape” of Bourgogne. The event will take place on Saturday, May 2, 2026, at Balsall Creek Vineyards, with 12 producers pouring various expressions and vintages of the variety. The Willamette Valley has long been renowned for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but in recent years, varieties like Aligoté, Grüner, and Sauvignon Blanc have been making an increasingly strong showing in regional tasting rooms, offering a fun, fresh spin on the WV terroir - and honestly, I’m here for it. I think these varieties are thriving, and many of the wines are showing exceptionally well.
Producers at this inaugural tasting include Abbey Road Farm, Andante Vineyard, Balsall Creek Vineyards, Beckham Estate Vineyard, Björnson Vineyard, Concinnitas Farm, Domaine Divio, Flâneur Wines, Limited Addition Wines, Lumos Wine Co., Moffett Vineyard, and Suzor Wines, representing the Yamhill-Carlton, Van Duzer, and Chehalem Mountains American Viticultural Areas. Alongside the wines, guests will enjoy French-inspired bites from Alchemy NW, curated specifically to highlight Aligoté’s affinity for food. And knowing how well this variety pairs with a range of foods, this tasting is sure to satisfy.
In the News
Oregon’s traditional method sparkling wines are getting a new label! As a quick review, traditional (or Champagne) method sparkling wines are those in which the second fermentation that creates the bubbles occurs within the bottle. Here’s a primer on all things sparkling:
Long story short, in the US it can be difficult to differentiate between wines made via the traditional method and those that aren’t. Sometimes a label will denote the production process, but all too often it’s a mystery. Well, Oregon has an answer to that: Method Oregon. Method Oregon is a new nonprofit, labeling standard, and an annual Grand Tasting (held in July). Founded by 45 wineries, Method Oregon unites pioneering producers and emerging brands, all focused on making world-class traditional method sparkling wine. The organization aims to celebrate exceptional wines, sustainable farming practices, and the distinct sense of place that defines Oregon sparkling wine. But what has me most interested and excited is the new labeling standard.
The Method Oregon mark will be available to wineries that meet the organization’s rigorous standards for traditional method production. In order to use the label the following guidelines must be met:
100% Oregon production using fruit from the Willamette Valley, Columbia Gorge, or Southern Oregon AVAs
Traditional method production, including second fermentation in bottle
A minimum of 24 months of aging en tirage
Labels must include disgorgement dates and AVA identification to enhance transparency
And beginning in 2029, additional sustainable farming requirements will require that fruit used for Method Oregon wines be farmed with OMRI-approved organic inputs only, or in LIVE-certified vineyards farmed without synthetic herbicides
This new standard will not only bring more transparency to the industry, but also make it easier for wine lovers to identify traditionally made wines. While I don’t discriminate against bubbles made via the tank or forced carbonation methods, I do like to know what to expect from a bottle - and for my money. The differing methods aren't intended to produce the same quality of bubbles and are generally not suited to the same scenarios and pairings. For example, a good force-carb bottle of bubbly makes a great picnic wine or cocktail addition when you don’t want to spend more than $20. And Prosecco is a fab choice for parties, to pair with appetizers, or when you’re in the mood for something fruity and floral rather than complex and yeasty.
I strongly believe that sparkling wine is Oregon’s next big thing. The climate is right, the grapes are here, and the talent is on the rise. I’ve said it before: keep an eye on this category. I believe Oregon will be the number one region in the US for bubbles within the next 10 years, and Method Oregon is proof that the industry is ready to make a serious, committed move in that direction.
In the Moment
While we’re on the topic of Oregon sparkling wines, I recently had the opportunity to taste through Corollary Wines’ new spring releases. For those unfamiliar, Corollary has sat in my top three for Oregon bubbles for the last two years - honestly the reason I stuck around hosting tastings there a year longer than planned, and why I'll continue to pour them for anyone curious about Oregon sparkling wine.
Created in 2017 by Dan Diephouse and Jeanne Feldkamp, a husband-and-wife duo, Corollary Wines is one of the Valley’s only all-sparkling producers. Their 57-acre property, planted to 13 acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Meunier, and Pinot Blanc, is one of the few vineyards in the state dedicated solely to the production of sparkling wines. The estate vineyard was planted in October 2023, however, meaning those grapes won’t see a glass until 2030 or beyond. In the meantime, Dan and Jeanne source grapes from vineyard partners across the Willamette Valley and craft their wines using the Champagne method. To-date, they have favored barrel fermentation and extended tirage aging for their range of extra-brut and brut cuvées, Blanc de Blancs, and rosés. Now, about those new releases…
In the Spirit
Corollary Wines are leap years ahead of most domestic bubbles I’ve tasted. They have depth, vibrancy, nuance - and are, honestly, gorgeous. Here are my takeaways and recommendations from the Spring 2026 lineup, plus a bonus sparkling Aligoté from Andante, one of the upcoming Aligoté Affair’s featured producers:
2022 Cuvée One - This is the house classic: a tribute to the Willamette Valley representing numerous vineyards in a vintage-varying blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Meunier, and Pinot Blanc. Disgorged after 30 months with a dosage of 3.5g/L, it makes for a pour you can count on vintage after vintage. The 2022 reminds me of a Champagne house’s non-vintage cuvée in that it expresses a creamy, rich, and brioche-laden palate. Honestly, this wine offers consistency in style regardless of vintage. It’s satisfying, food-friendly, and a solid QPR. $50
2022 Cuvée One Rosé - The pink version of the house cuvée is also a vintage-varying blend of grapes from multiple vineyards. The 2021 vintage marked the first to incorporate Meunier, featured alongside Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Prior to 2021, the blend typically included Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc. For the 2022 vintage, Pinot Blanc returns to the blend alongside Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Meunier. It spent 30 months in the bottle and has a dosage of 1.25g/L. The return of Pinot Blanc is notable, bringing more zesty citrus notes back to the game. $60
2021 X-Omni Blanc de Blancs (Eola-Amity Hills AVA) - If you'd asked me my favorite of the lineup any time in the last two years, I'd likely have answered X-Omni - depending on the day. It's typically mineral-rich, intense, and showcases a complex array of aromas and flavors. The 2021 hits the mark again, but with a few notable differences. I found the palate to feel more like the 2019 vintage - rounded, full, and enveloping. And while the 2020 was mineral-forward, the 2021 leans fruitier, butterier, and a touch savory. It underwent partial malolactic fermentation (80%), spent 42 months in the bottle, and received a dosage of 3.25g/L. It encapsulates the vintage and the site - a co-planting of 17 Chardonnay clones - and showcases why Oregon is heading toward becoming America's top sparkling wine region. $85
2021 Namaste Blanc de Blancs (Van Duzer Corridor AVA) - If I didn't answer X-Omni to that question, it was Namaste. This was the first bottle I acquired after getting acquainted with the winery. The Chardonnay comes from the oldest vines of the variety in the windswept Van Duzer Corridor. Made nearly identically to the X-Omni - 75% malo and a dosage of 3.75g/L - these two wines couldn't be more different. Side by side, they are an eye-opening example of terroir's impact on a wine. The Namaste is generally the more fruit-forward of the two Blanc de Blancs, and that holds again with the 2021. It had shades of a lemon-filled sandwich cookie in a racy liquid format. Delish! In my opinion, it’s the most balanced and focused bottling of this vineyard to date. It has a lot to say, and I know I’ll be sitting down for a few more listening sessions while supplies last. $70
2022 Momtazi Carbonic Rosé - Okay, I'll be honest: this one typically wasn't for me. That's not to say it hasn't been a quality wine - it most certainly excels there - and it has legions of fans. It just wasn't for my palate. Until now. The 2022 Momtazi achieves a new height in balance, nuance, and elegance. It's a bold wine bursting with candied red fruits, garden herbs, and citrus peel - and given it has about 24 hours of skin contact, it carries a bit of weight in the mouth too. In years past, I compared this wine to a Negroni - it had a Campari-like bitterness on the finish, which many people loved - and while that comparison still stands (with a bit less bite), the 2022 is a more seamless interweaving of flavors, with a finesse I hadn't found before. I tasted this bottle over a few days and a several meals, with my top pairings being sushi maki rolls and Thai food. I can also see this pairing gorgeously with anything duck. The Momtazi is more of a specific-occasion pour than one I’d drink any or every day, but I’ll absolutely be drinking it again. And it’s one I’ll now wholeheartedly recommend. $75
My top 3 recommendations from the new line-up: the 2021 Namaste, the 2021 X-Omni, and the 2022 Momtazi. Pro tip: If you plan to pick-up a bottle or two, make one of them a magnum. You’ll thank yourself - and me - later.
While this is not a traditional method wine, it's a force-carbonated bottling of exceptional quality - and a cheery, lively, downright delightful expression of Aligoté. The Andante sparkler is soft and delicate, with lingering flavors of orchard fruit and crisp white peach. It’s the perfect spring picnic wine and would make a delicious accompaniment to any salad - especially one topped with orchard fruits, walnuts, and blue cheese. If you’re curious about Bourgogne’s other white grape, this is a pleasantly playful place to start. $35
In the Know
Aligot - not to be confused with Aligoté wine - is a classic dish from the Aubrac region of France, and it’s basically the best cheesy mashed potatoes ever. Do they sit like lead in your stomach? Absolutely. But my god, they’re worth every extra pound.
Aligot is made by blending mass quantities of butter, cream, garlic, and of tomme fraîche cheese into hot, velvety, pureed potatoes. The result is a creamy yet gloriously elastic, stretchy texture loaded with comfort and flavor. And yes, you’ll definitely want some wine to help wash it down - perhaps an Aligoté.
In the Hopper
Willamette Valley Guide 2.0 coming this weekend.
In Memoriam
This one is tough.
I've completed six harvests over the course of my wine life, and in my experience it's something one either loves or hates. I loved it. Aside from writing, I don't think anything has ever given me more energy or joy. And while much of that passion was certainly for the making of wine, it was also because the connections formed were priceless and unmatched. A harvest, particularly one processing tons of fruit with a micro-team of two to four, is an incredibly intimate experience. It pushes, tests, strains, breaks, builds, and enlivens all at once.
People often say: if you want to really get to know someone, travel with them. I say, do a harvest with them. A harvest is like a small theatrical production. It intertwines a hodgepodge of individuals, working day and night, thrust into immediate collaboration to achieve peak performances for a limited run. But unlike a theatrical production, there is no acting on the crush pad, no pretending to be someone else. It forces you to be exactly who you are - exposing faults and weaknesses, highlighting strengths and talent - without exception or apology. And this all happens in one short, intense season. That combination, those circumstances, are never again repeated. They can be replicated, but never quite the same; nor fully understood by anyone but that vintage's cast of characters. And today I want to honor one such character, whose name and light will forever be etched in my story - as well as the stories of all he knew and touched.
Mark McBride - a son, a brother, a father, a grandfather, a friend, and an all-around incredible human who brought depth, humor, compassion, and loyalty to everything he did - was taken from us tragically, unexpectedly, and senselessly in a hit-and-run accident this past week. Mark was only 51. And while others can better tell his life story and share more accolades and years of memories, I want to briefly honor the few but impactful moments I had the opportunity to share with Mark at Hickory Creek Winery in Buchanan, Michigan, between 2019 and 2021.
I began working at Hickory Creek in 2018 with winery owner Adam McBride, Mark’s younger brother. At the time, both Mark and I helped out in the tasting room and cellar when we could. On the few occasions we worked the tasting room together, we made a hilarious, lively, and efficient team behind the bar - cracking each other and the guests up in equal measure. We planted Chardonnay vines side by side in the small estate vineyard, bottled and labeled hundreds of bottles of wine, and shared many a beer. But it was the harvest of 2020 that will stay with me most. It was the pandemic year. Everyone and everything was on lockdown, but grapes grow and wine must be made. The season started with caution, masks, and nervousness - but it proved to be the connection we all so desperately needed and craved those long, lonely months. Not only did we give everything we had that vintage - it was returned to us twofold - and in no small part thanks to Mark. Mark: a man whose character displayed honesty, thoughtfulness, humor, protectiveness, tenacity, and willingness. I remember laughing until it literally hurt - over the wetsuit, antics with the pallet jack, my "surprise" birthday party, the grunge band album covers, sing-alongs, and countless chats about spiders, bands, and Star Trek vs. Star Wars - as well as the heavier conversations about family, life, and finding meaning in it all. We were family - for one short season.
As I said, many of those tales and inside jokes aren’t likely to resonate with anyone who wasn’t a part of our small cast - in which Mark played such a large role. But hopefully this offers some insight into his character, a testament to how connections - regardless of size or length of time - can make and leave an imprint. I’m still without adequate words to do him or my feelings justice, but I wanted to raise a literal and figurative glass and say: To Mark. Thank you. I love you. And to the ensemble cast of harvest 2020 - the same. I miss you all.
Alternate subtitle, perhaps, might be, “Sedimental Journey?” Just a thought.
So much great intel packed up in here. And a lovely tribute to your friend. Very sorry for your loss. ❤️