From the NapCab ✈️
Wine Travel Beyond the Socials
In My Glass
Last week I received the new releases from one of Willamette Valley’s best-known producers, Evenstad Estates, more commonly known as Domaine Serene. Evenstad Estates is the culmination of Grace and the late Ken Evenstad’s vision to produce Pinot Noir and Chardonnay across multiple world-class wine regions. Their wine journey began with Domaine Serene, in Oregon’s Dundee Hills in 1989 and eventually expanded to Bourgogne, France with the acquisition of Château de la Crée and 24 acres in the Côte de Beaune in 2015. The family also took on a negotiant project, Maison Evenstad, where they feature wines sourced from throughout the Côte d’Or. Most recently in 2021, Domaine Evenstad was added to the portfolio, offering wines from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, including Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, and Nuits-Saint-Georges.
I tasted the new releases blind last week. Here’s my hot take:
I’ll preface this by saying that in the past, I have gravitated towards their French wines. Without question. So this time, I went in blind to try and remove any bias I might have. My approach was to taste them qualitatively at first, as I would if I were judging the wines in a competition, after which, I sat with each of them on a more personal level. If you know or have heard of Domaine Serene, the fact that they are all excellent wines, won’t come as a shock. On a competition scale, they would excel. That said, in my opinion, the Domaine Serene wines from the Oregon estate are decidedly more “new world” in style with bolder fruit aromas and flavors, a touch more oak (although here it was quite moderate and well-integrated), and just a bit more sass. The wines from the French estates were more layered, mineral, and giving more class than sass.
What did I end up liking best? Well, much to my surprise, I leaned Oregon when it came to the Chardonnay, and French for the Pinot. The 2022 Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Chardonnay was flinty and floral with a mouth-watering opulence that absolutely won me over. It walked a fine line between electricity and elegance with both grace and panache. It’s incredibly balanced and lasts for ages on the palate. Now, don’t get me wrong, I would never turn down a glass of the 2022 Château de la Crée Santenay Premier Cru Les Gravières. The aromas alone are intensely alluring and it’s definitively precise. The best way I can think to illustrate their differences is in how I would pair them. For the Oregon Chard, I want a rich meal — roast chicken, pork, or a creamy pasta — and for the Santenay, I’m craving oysters, shellfish, or a lighter leek risotto. Either would be a solid choice, but that silky, mouth-coating texture of the Oregon expression is, frankly, crave-worthy.
As for my Pinot-picky perspective, I have to say, while I did lean towards the 2022 Maison Evenstad Savigny-lès-Beaune, I was impressed by the restraint of the 2022 Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir. I have typically found their Oregon Pinots to lead with, or at least be overtly dominated by, oak aromas and flavors. That was not the case this time around. While still present, the OR Pinot was a comingling of fruit, spice, and minerality — I’d say a good representation of Willamette Valley. But in the case of these two wines, I’d lean hard towards the Bourgogne bottling for its notable complexity. I seriously could have listed about a dozen different aromas and flavors. The wine continued to evolve in the glass, revealing each layer slowly with poise. There’s definitely some aging potential here. And just some downright, “Thank you, sir, I’ll have another.”
Overall: the 2022s are excellent wines. And I’m newly impressed by the Domaine Serene line. They showed restraint, maturity, and a level of knowingness. I’ll be looking forward to seeing where their 2023s will lead.
In the Room Vineyard Where It Happened
I spent last week in Livermore, California, where I spent two, full days with 17 colleagues evaluating more than 400 wines as part of the newly organized “California Signature Wine Awards.” The event merged together the Alameda Wine Awards and the Uncorked: Best of Livermore Valley Wine Awards and opened the competition to wines from across the country.
We were seated at six tables of three, with ballots for hand-written evaluation and scoring. On day one, each table tasted roughly 65 wines across various categories. It was our job to collectively determine the top three wines in each grouping, first by personal assessment and then by group discussion before coming to an agreed upon consensus for the table. Ultimately, each wine was designated as a Double Gold, Gold, Silver, or No-Award. The next day, each table then evaluated the top wines from every category to narrow the field down further. This was a much more individualized effort, culminating in the final vote for best red and best white wines after several “elimination” rounds and about another 65+ wines. And let me tell you, when you’re tasting the “best of’s,” it’s far more challenging to determine a winner. The wines that made it to this point were, for the most part, all contenders from a quality standpoint.
As I’ve said before, judging places me in a different mode than how I write here. It’s technical, qualitative, and my bias gets set aside. But it also feeds everything I bring to you on this side of the screen, and one of those things is honesty. It’s damn hard to judge that many wines in two days. Not only is palate fatigue very real, it’s also both a physical and mental challenge to maintain the same level of alertness and focus throughout the exercise. But that is key and something I consider my professional responsibility. Every wine needs to be considered on its own merits, and every wine deserves the same level of attention, respect, discernment, and evaluation. So to that end, I snack on way more breadsticks than should be humanly possible, I drink lots of water, and I take breaks to move, reset, and keep at it.
I’ll have more to share on the competition once I receive the complete results and the list of wines we tasted. I’m curious to see if there were any interesting patterns to note or observations to make based on variety, origin, vintage, etc. Until then, what I can say is that I was particularly impressed with the aromatic white wines: Albariño, Verdejo, and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as Sangiovese for the reds, and I look forward to breaking that all down for you soon.
For now, I’ll leave you with the best part of this experience: watching Livermore Valley wines show up! While I don’t have the complete list, I do know quite a few were awarded with Double Golds and Golds. And I can also share, the Best of Livermore honors went to Darcie Kent Estate Vineyards for their Albariño and Wood Family Vineyards for their GSM — two wines that make a genuinely strong case for a region that deserves more attention.
In the Moment
Speaking of “Best of Livermore’s” Darcie Kent — I met Darcie, an artist, winemaker, and entrepreneur, at her music and wine venue, Almost Famous Wine Company, in 2024. Darcie and I connected right away over Cabernet Franc, Missouri wines, family, and careers. You can read more about her story and Livermore wines here, but today, I want to share with you a brief interview with Darcie about an international collaboration developed right here in Livermore: The Global Artisan Vintner’s Alliance (AVA).
Established in January 2025, the Global AVA was created as a mutually-beneficial alliance of partner wine regions across the globe to promote collaboration and share best practices around viticulture, agri- and eno-tourism, marketing initiatives, and economic development. In other words, it’s like-minded people in similarly sized regions around the world coming together to share ideas, struggles, solutions, inspiration, and stories. The group has already helped each other identify vineyard pests and solutions, share winemaking techniques, and in some cases, even inspired wine families to persevere despite market hardships. Seeing Darcie’s eyes water as she spoke with an obvious passion about the program, I knew right away that it was this week’s “In the Moment.”
This — communities and cultures coming together at a shared table — this is the richness, wealth, and connecting force of wine.
In Depth
Sauvignon Blanc is an aromatic white grape which makes some of the world’s most distinctive white wines. Although today it is grown around the globe, it most likely originated in the Loire Valley of France where the most renowned versions, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, are found. It’s noted for its herbaceousness, high acidity, light to medium body, and intense aromatics. While it’s typically found as a dry white wine, it can also produce sweet, botrytized* wines (Sauternes from Bordeaux being the most notable). Its name, “Sauvignon” is derived from two French words: sauvage (“wild”) and vigne (“vine”). And indeed, it can be wild in the vineyard.
Sauvignon Blanc likely originated in the Loire Valley of France where it’s still renowned for Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. One of Sauvy B’s parents was the ancient grape, Savagnin, making Sauvignon Blanc a sibling of Grüner Veltliner, Chenin Blanc, and Silvaner, among others. Sauvignon Blanc then likely spread to Bordeaux where in addition to producing the white wine we all know, it spontaneously crossed with Cabernet Franc to create Cabernet Sauvignon. Honestly grape vines are about as prolific as rabbits! As for the Sauvignon Blanc from these most well-known French regions, Loire Valley expressions are noted for high acidity and flavors of green apple, citrus, herbs, flint, and minerals. Bordeaux Blanc wines often lead with Sauvignon Blanc and feature varying percentages of Sémillon. These expressions tend to have slightly less pronounced aromatics and flavors of lime, grass, grapefruit, baked apple, and chamomile.
Sauvignon Blanc is an early ripening grape which can grow vigorously (too vigorously if not properly managed) and is easily adaptable to various growing environments; although it’s particularly well-suited to cooler climates where it can retain its natural acidity and freshness. It’s grown most commonly in France, New Zealand, Chile, South Africa, Moldova, and the United States with lesser plantings in Australia, Romania, and Spain among many other vine growing locations. Sauvignon Blanc is typically matured in stainless steel or concrete vessels, but there are expressions aged in oak or acacia. This style is sometimes referred to as Fumé Blanc, as coined by Robert Mondavi in the 1980s. And like most grapes, Sauvignon Blanc will take on a slightly different character depending on where it’s grown and how it’s made. That said, it is generally best consumed within one to three years from harvest, but again, there’s always exceptions to the rule, most notably when it comes to the sweeter styles.
In Practice
Admittedly, Sauvy B is not my desert island wine. Nor one I talk about often, despite enjoying it fairly regularly. Safe bet or seriously underrated? Yes.
Sauvignon Blanc is a classic — distinctive, rarely mistaken for anything else, and typically bright, sunny, and refreshing. At any reception, open house, or party with an uninspired wine spread, I’m reaching for it every time. Predictable in the best way: rarely offensive, low oak risk, and almost always drinkable. But it’s not just a safe bet, Sauvignon Blanc can be beautifully expressed, complex, and wonderfully paired with the right dishes.
Here are eight bottles I recently tasted and my honest take on each for the sunny season:
2023 Cadgal — Piemonte, IT — Softly perfumed, textural, and refined. Citrus blossoms and a balance that earns it: Prima Ballerina. (currently unavailable but typically runs about $35)
2024 Crowded House — Marlborough, NZ — Classic, clean, grapefruit and grass, without the litter box. Don’t Dream It’s Over. $14
2025 The Better Half — Marlborough, NZ — Swagger and class. Grassy and herbal with enough citrus to keep things bright. Miami Vice. $14
2025 Jules Taylor — Marlborough, NZ — Light, breezy, bell peppery. Classic NZ SB batting well above average. Overachiever. $18
2024 Ponga — Marlborough, NZ — Tropical punch, grapefruit, green herbs. Who needs caffeine when you have this. Giddy-up. $15
2025 Darcie Kent Pistachio Lane SB — Livermore, CA — Fruit-laden and citrus-forward with subtle herbaceous notes and a touch of ginger spice. Begging for hummus, a light salad, or white fish. Verano. $35
2024 Dark Rock SB — Columbia Valley, WA — Getting serious. Fumé-style, food-pairing worthy. Orchard fruits and buttercream with a Sweetarts finish. Dinner Time. $18
2014 Darcie Kent Late Harvest SB - Livermore, CA — And don’t sleep on the sweeter side — hello Yquem 😍 — or this late harvest SB from a decade gone by. A whole other world.
In the News
While we’re talking Livermore, this upcoming event is worth noting — featuring my fave grape of course.
In Good Conscience
I may have missed Earth Day round these parts, but there’s no wrong time to share the good works of producers around the globe that not only honor the land from which they harvest, but that also make on-going, committed efforts to ensuring its health and longevity for generations to come. Today, I want to introduce you to a longtime favorite from the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France: Domaine Lafage. I’ve come to know and love their wines — from their crisp, sea-sprayed rosés to their old vine, high-elevation complex and elegant reds of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah, and Mourvèdre that scintillatingly evoke their Mediterranean origin. But the story behind their two newest labels - Contaca (Chardonnay/Petit Manseng/Chenin/Sauvignon Blanc) and Moutou (Grenache/Syrah) recently came as a pleasant surprise.
Recognizing that climate change wasn’t merely a futuristic possibility, but was verifiably happening in real-time, Domaine Lafage began to adapt their vineyard practices and their approach towards sustainability to better address the developing and expected challenges that lie ahead. With many experiments underway, one technique has proven significantly successful for the family: regenerative agriculture. Through this sustainable farming methodology, the Domaine has implemented numerous practices including the integration of compost and biochar to the soils, planting of cover crops, terraced plantings with no plowing, animal grazing, and water cultivation.
For the past three years, Domaine Lafage has been incorporating compost and biochar into its soils. Biochar is a porous carbon compound valuable for storing nutrients and water. The results have demonstrated an increase in natural organic matter in the soil, greater carbon sequestration and water retention, as well as better vegetative development. Additionally, by both planting cover crops and incorporating a flock of sheep into the vineyards for grazing and fertilization, the family has seen a diversification in flora and fauna develop, which has brought more birds and insects to the vineyard. The increasing biodiversity has also benefited the Domaine’s native bat population, used for natural pest control, which has increased by 37%.
And since water is an essential, and depleting resource, for the vineyard, Domaine Lafage implemented both vine leaf surface reduction and “conservation” irrigation. A reduction of the vine leaf surface area during the growing season limits vine transpiration, the process by which the plant releases water into the air. By limiting the atmospheric uptake, the plant is able to keep more moisture throughout droughts and peak heat. Plant-by-plant irrigation was also instituted, whereby each plant is constantly monitored and individually supplied water at specific moments and in precise, limited quantities. Although a time consuming process, the Domaine now uses 2 to 3 times less water than the average vineyard in the region and believes it has improved the overall freshness of the fruit produced by these vines.
Now, outside of a controlled study, it’s merely circumstantial to say that the wines crafted from these regeneratively farmed vines are any different or better than those from the more conventionally farmed vines. What I can say, is that they are fresh, layered, and just downright drinkable — much like many of the wines from Domaine Lafage — and the fact that they do good by our shared planet, well that’s certainly a bonus.
In the Know
Bats provide significant benefits to vineyards by acting as natural, eco-friendly pest control, consuming mass quantities of insects — including the damaging grape moth. The nocturnal creatures can consume between 500 to 1,500 insects each per nightly hunt. This all-natural pest control reduces the need for synthetic insecticides and pesticides. According to a study conducted in Chile and cited in the journal of Agriculture, Ecosystems & Environment, bat activity can lead to significant reductions in crop damage, saving up to 7% of annual production in some vineyard areas.
News to me — I’ll definitely look at local bats differently, but I’m still going to irrationally and frantically run from them too.
In the Hopper
I wrote the majority of this in my private NapCab in the Frankfurt airport en route to Yerevan, Armenia for the Concours Mondial Red & White Session where I just completed judging for the third consecutive year (previous iterations you may recall from Mexico and China).
I’m now staying on for an extra week to explore this historic wine region - 6,000 years of wine history and counting. So, stay-tuned - there’s so much more to come!
Love your article and esp your SB commentary. I’m with you! I recently had some SB from some special sites in Touraine (Chenonceaux- Domaine de la Chaise and Oisly- Domaine de Marcé), and I loved them. (It was a GuildSomm event on wines of the Loire). I am going to see if a wine buyer friend can bring them in- they weren’t as minerally as Sancerre but gorgeous fruit and restrained green/herbal notes. Worth seeking out if you have a chance to try!