Firing on all Cylinders

Wine Travel Beyond the Socials

In My Glass

2020 Terre Stregate Falanghina

This Falanghina, a white grape native to Campania, has already been enjoyed with seafood, at a poolside bbq, and with my best girl around the fire. This is number four, paired ahead of my next wine travel adventure, where I just might finally get to meet the makers at the place!

Falanghina is one of Campania’s most widely planted white grapes and produces distinctive wines ranging from simple to complex. This bottle from Terre Stregate is definitely one of the more complex styles. Found in the fabled hills of Guardia Sanframondi, is the ancient Sannio DOP village of Benevento, and the winery Terre Stregate (meaning bewitched lands). An area rich with folklore, the winery takes its name for the legend of the witches born in Benevento, who would reunite around a boiling pot, under a walnut tree near Calore river, where their magic is said to have taken place.

As for this magical elixir, we enjoyed it without a boiling pot, but instead near a warming fire, under the glow of agnostic Christmas tree lights, and it was at once distinctive and bewitching. Definite notes of citrus and salinity with an acidity that truly thrills, but for me it was the herbs and richness that dominated. It reminded me of a savory Slovenian bread, called potica, I’ve had that was stuffed with cream and tarragon. It might sound odd, but the tarragon was definitely present, and after six months on the lees, those creamy, doughy pastry notes make sense too.

If I repeat any wine, let alone four times…long story short, it was unique, memorable, and captivating. As my Campania-enthusiast, friend Stefano Franzoni, who introduced me to the producer, called it: Spirited. $28

2019 Ossian Vinas Viejas de Segovia

With five centuries of winemaking and some of the oldest pre-phylloxera vines, between 150 and more than 200 years old, Ossian was the first certified organic vineyard in the Rueda DO. This Segovian Verdejo is planted in soils of sand, pebbles, and slate at elevations of 2,900 to 3,200 feet, and to see them is an experience in an of itself. The Ossian is made from these very 150-year old vines, and a 30-something winemaker that knows what’s going on, plus nine months in French oak of various sizes for a rich, polished, and balanced Verdejo. It’s both taught and lavish with its fresh, lifted acidity and rounded, weighty finish. A slight hint of oxidation just adds to the mystic and etherealness. You haven’t had a Verdejo, until you’ve tried Ossian. Transformative. $55

2019 Daterra Viticultores Azos de Pobo

I went to the store seeking a Mencia - the dirty, funky kind that not only makes my spine arch and tingle, but also gets my brain running on all cylinders - and not in the over-thinky, analytical way, but the enlivened, stimulated way. And while this isn’t a 100-percent Mencia, or even Mencia-dominant, I was promised it would deliver the funk. From mixed plantings of 80-120 year old vines, this juicy red is comprised of 50% Gran Negro and Garnacha Tintorera, with the balance being Mouraton, Mencía, Merenzao, etc. Made by Laura Lorenzo, the grapes were destemmed and foot-trodden (love that!), fermented in open-top, used 500 and 225 liter barrels, and then aged for 11 months in neutral 225 liter barrels. Long story short, this has all the markers of the juicy, crushable, high-acid reds that I love - the ones that get under my skin and that light a fire of unsatiable desire. Okay, maybe that’s cliche and a bit much, but is it? It’s certainly something unexpected, that makes you take notice, won’t let you forget it, and keeps you coming back for more. Now I’m not saying this is the best wine out there, but when something surprises you, makes you smile incessantly, and delivers with an omnipresence, well, for me that’s a wine that surpasses want. Necessito. $60

1997 La Rioja Alta "904" Gran Reserva Rioja

There are shows and then there are SHOWS: mind-blowing, otherworldly, profound experiences. One visit to Colorado’s Red Rocks Park Amphitheater—the only naturally-occurring, acoustically perfect amphitheater in the world— to see your favorite band, well, your musical world will forever be changed. And for me, an aged Rioja elicits a similar phenomenon. Like the venue itself, the wine here is both accessible and unassuming... until you’re in it. And then, fuck—it’s an intensely emotional experience that envelops all of your senses from beginning to end. Dark cherries, prunes, leather, sweet tobacco, sage, and a hint of cocoa with noticeable acid and a soft but textural mouthfeel that hits all the touchpoints. You won’t want to be anywhere else. Enigmatic. $275

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In the Spotlight

Winery of the Week

When highly-acclaimed Bourgogne and other French region wine icons begin buying vineyards in the States, it’s likely a good - or at least significant - sign. And such is the case at Résonance Wines. In April 2013, Bourgogne-based Maison Louis Jadot’s Thibault Gagey and Jacques Lardière set out to survey a well-established vineyard in Yamhill-Carlton. The connection to the place and recognition of its potential was immediate and a new transatlantic venture was begun. Today, Résonance Wines has 139-acres of vineyards spanning three AVAs including Yamhill-Carlton, Dundee Hills, and Eola-Amity producing only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay made by French-born winemaker, Guillaume Large.

Reservations are recommended at either tasting room location – the Grand Tasting Room in Yamhill-Carlton, or the Tasting Salon in Dundee. The Grand Tasting is hosted at the main winery and tasting room in Carlton, set atop a dramatic hillside with expansive vineyard and Valley views. The Tasting Salon is found at the winery’s Dundee Hills location, and set amidst the cozy amphitheater of Résonance’s Découverte Vineyard. No matter your selection you’re sure to feel the interconnectivity between old and new worlds. It’s an elegant, yet down-to-earth stop sure to inspire; not to mention send you home with the best of both worlds – Willamette Valley and Bourgogne wines.

Click these links for more regional information on Willamette Valley’s Dundee Hills, Yamhill-Carlton, and Eola-Amity AVAs. (The link to Yamhill-Carlton is also the same issue as my early contender for wine of the year…will it hold up at the end of this month?)

Resort of the Week

I touched on this place in last week’s issue, but here’s the full run-down because I cannot get this place out of my head: Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge, found in the wilderness along the Rogue River just outside of Southern Oregon’s Gold Beach.

Recently renovated and now debuting stunning glass cabins with reflective one-way glass and 360-degree views along the river and throughout the property, in addition to the main lodge and traditional cabins, Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge is now open year-round. And with the new restaurant, culinary and wine program helmed by executive chef Derek Piva (previously of Musket Room, STARR Restaurants and Tao Group), a wood-burning sauna, a year-round pool, coastal hiking trails, and a cozy fire lit lounge, this is a haven for the soul and a must stay.

Tu Tu’ Ton Lodge was a slow exhale into my being. As I said before, I was convinced the place might swallow me whole and I was strangely content with that - I would have welcomed it. It was a revelation of reflection. And while I’d love to experience the beauty of this space in all the seasons, right now, the rain, winds, clouds and all, was exactly what I needed and when I needed it. It’s a precious paradise I can’t recommend enough.

Plus they have some upcoming events worth noting:

The Hive + Honey spa pop-up throughout the month of December offers a wide range of holistic spa services including full body massages, exfoliations, and polishes, facials, and more.

Tu Tu’ Tun’s first annual Wellness Weekend is 12/6 - 12/8, with breathwork sessions, sauna and river cold plunges, sound journeys, yoga classes, energy work lessons, and more.

Also throughout December, Tu Tu’ Tun will feature festive musical programming by local pianist David Searing every Thursday-Sunday from 5-7PM. Side note: he was one of the most fascinating people I met during my stay. The stories this man has and can tell! (And David, thank you, my friend, for sharing that very special and personal musical piece with the four of us that evening after dinner. I’ll never forget that moment.)

The Tu Tu’ Tun team is also offering weekly sommelier-led wine tastings, every Thursday-Sunday at 3PM, featuring unique pours from Johan Vineyards and Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden, the properties’ nearby sister vineyards.

Seriously, if I could have moved in, I would. This is a must in any season, but especially now. I cannot recommend this enough - solo, as a couple, or with a group (although for me, solo was everything and then some).

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In the Moment

A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to taste the vineyard designate wines from Résonance Wines with Winemaker Guillaume Large. Not only was it a showcase of how the specific terroir of each site plays a role in the development of the wine, but it also shone a spotlight on the increasing potential and exquisite beauty of Willamette Valley Chardonnay. In this week’s “In the Moment,” I chat with Guillaume about his thoughts on why this region is capable of producing such high-quality Chardonnay, and about how we’ve only just scraped the surface. Many thanks to Guillaume and the team at Résonance for the insightful and inspiring morning at the Découverte Vineyard.

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In the Room Where It Happened

This past Saturday, I was among the welcoming committee for the 2nd annual Friendsgiving held at Stillwater in McMinnville. The event showcased 12 wineries and delicious bites inspired by holiday food memories from Chef Brett Uniss of Humble Spirit.

Now, in my opinion, this was one of the best showcases of Willamette Valley’s up & comers I’ve experienced. Small and intimate enough to meet with every winemaker, and a high-quality representation of such a wide variety of what makes this region more than just Pinot Noir - although there were some incredible expressions of our signature grape too.

While I didn’t try every producer there (I was working after all), I did get a chance to try those that weren’t yet familiar to me, among them: De La Boue Wines, Call Me Dolores wines, and Sealionne Wines (okay - I know Sealionne’s Cab Franc, because, duh! but these selections were new to me). And my winners:

De La Boue - Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Chardonnay was acid-driven, clean, and riddled with verve. A little birdie told me about their hyper-ox* techniques (which I learned on the crush pad in Michigan, so was slightly stoked), and how it’s about the site and the fruit - not the winemaking here. That said, I know damn well, it takes a good winemaker to know these things - so credit due where credit’s due. Hats humbly off to you, Travis. And as for that Pinot - this “Pinot picky” palate was stoked. Crunchy red fruits, lively acidity, and ever-so-up-my-alley!

Call Me Dolores - A new brand by Willamette Valley’s renowned and enigmatic, Kate Payne Brown, is a focus on small lots and small production. Coined “Dolores,” these wines are an homage to Kate’s mother, Charlene Payne, who was nicknamed "Dolores" while living in Spain, because "Payne" is derived from '“dolor” meaning "pain" in Spanish. The label is an ode to her adventurous spirit and willingness to explore beyond her boundaries. (Feels. Plus a Spanish connection, so double feels.) And as for my winner: the Non-Vintage Sparkling Pinot Gouge Blanc. Yup. Pinot Gouges. Another mutation of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gouges was first discovered in Nuits-St. Georges in Burgundy by Henri Gouges in 1936. Pinot Gouges then apparently arrived in Oregon in the 1980s, and this sparkler is a multi-vintage cuvée of this lesser known variety. It’s creamy, brioche-laced, with a touch of that darker side - “mmmm” - that gets into my skin. And at $55, this is one you need to know. Trust.

Finally, from the Chehalem Mountains, Sealionne’s 2023 Phoque Rosé. I’ve been clear that I’m not a big fan of Pinot Noir rosé, but this isn’t really a rosé of Pinot Noir, although it’s in there. This, rather, is in fact, Chardonnay driven. And it’s a banger! An acid bomb. A fruity, mineral-laced, quaffer that I’m happy to put down anytime.

P.S. I did bring a few home too. Of this one. Cuz, dammit, it’s prodigious.

*Hyperoxidation: a winemaking technique that involves intentionally introducing oxygen to the juice from white wine grapes prior to fermentation in order to both reduce the amount of phenolic compounds in the juice, which can cause bitterness and browning in the wine, and also lead to a more stabilized wine that requires less sulfur dioxide. Hyper-oxed wines are also typically more stable and less likely to fluctuate when they eventually do see oxygen post fermentation.

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In the Hopper

Well, it’s off to Italy, but frankly, I have no idea what I’m going to write next. Whatever hits me in the moment I suppose. That’s how I work best anyway. We still have previous iterations of Italy to cover, Spain (oh, Spain!), and Southern Oregon. Not to mention places I’ve traveled by bottle. So, honestly, your guess is as good as mine. But I swear there are bubbles coming - as soon as I have a few hours at my desk. Cheers all!