Everything, Everywhere

Wine Travel Beyond the Socials

I did not grow up with wine on the table. Or even in the house. My first sip was someone’s homemade purple hooch in college - and honestly, I’m surprised I was ever willing to try it again after that night (and the morning that followed). But the roomies and I wanted to get “fancy” for our first “adult” Thanksgiving, and so Franzia’s White Zin became the next wine across my palate. I stopped drinking wine after that. For a few years.

Fortunately, both my palate and I eventually matured. After meeting my husband (on a pub crawl - a story for another time), our favorite dates revolved around food and wine, albeit more for the company than the quality of our meals. We sipped often, but not a lot - Napa Cabs, Merlot, Zin, Aussie Shiraz, the occasional low-budget Bordeaux or Burgundy (again, thinking we were fancy). And then we found Rioja. And Ribera. Again and again. Spanish wines lit a spark that whet my appetite, shaped my palate, and ultimately drove what has become an insatiable curiosity for all things wine.

Then came our first winery visit in Temecula, California, an unplanned pit stop mid-road trip because we were basically in the middle of the desert and needed a restroom. What was meant to be two minutes became two hours. After that, we started cutting our teeth on wine by tasting all across the U.S. Piling into the car for the holidays? There’s a winery on the way. Driving the kids to the Rockies? Wineries make fabulous lunch stops. Eventually, our European sabbatical became an extension of those stateside adventures. And just like at home, we still weren’t chasing points, vintages, or big names. Our discoveries were driven entirely by curiosity. We loved seeing what different regions were capable of, which grapes could and couldn’t grow, and most of all, sipping where the locals sipped - because that’s where the real stories live.

I love observing the role of wine within local communities - from Hector, New York to Eger, Hungary - because wine is a way of life. And the majority of those wines, in the majority of those communities, aren’t the highly revered, collectible variety. They’re local. Specific to that place - what’s made there, or simply what’s available. That’s something too often lost in the broader wine conversation. It’s not all points and prestige. The people chasing specific bottles, vintages, and producers are the minority. For most people, it’s simply about the wine that’s liked, known, affordable, and on hand.

That’s not to say I don’t geek out with my wine friends, splurge with my husband, and drink the wines I’ve come to love, I do for sure. But I’m also still buying the $10 bottles, stopping at the winery in the middle of the desert, doing the flight in a tasting room in Southern Illinois, having the random glass in someone’s garage in Italy, and trying varieties from regions not yet well-known or even well-regarded. And when the “Somm” on Instagram sends me a vomit emoji for talking about (and god forbid liking) one of those wines, I’ll raise my glass to the packed tables of locals and tourists laughing, sharing, and enjoying life all around me. Because that’s never been what this is about. Wine isn’t a test to pass or a hierarchy to climb. It’s an invitation - and everyone’s welcome at the table. At least my table.

It’s been a long time since those early days of Yellowtail Shiraz, and a lifetime since the homemade hooch. I’ve explored, studied, tasted, and collected a few certifications along the way. I’ve devoted both my life and my career to this beverage. But wine, for me, has never really been about the wine; although I do love what it brings to a meal, when its aromas stop me in my tracks, the way it can delight my palate, and when it brings me to a goosebump moment. But really, it’s the people, the stories, and the places that made me want to keep filling my glass.

Here are a few wines to fill your glass and get those memories going around your literal and figurative tables. Maybe one of them will even stop you in your tracks. Cheers!

In My Glass

2024 Frescobaldi Castiglioni Chianti DOCG

I’m an explorer at heart. But I’m also not going to settle for poor quality when I’m shopping for or opening wine either. And some nights I just want something I can count on without overthinking it (because I’m likely overthinking everything else!). Thankfully, there are plenty of wines under $30 and even under $20 that not only make the cut, but often exceed expectations. And Chianti is one - particularly from Frescobaldi, who’s been at the game for more than 700 years and across 30 generations. This budget-bev was exactly what I’ve come to expect from this Tuscan winemaking family: trusted quality and expression of place. The 2024 Chianti is predominantly Sangiovese, but it does have a touch of Merlot and does not see any oak - all of which make this wine fresh, fruit-forward, and approachable. In other words, it fit exactly what I was looking for on a post-work decompresh sesh with the hubby. Exhale. $12

2024 Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Rosé

I have strong feelings about rosés of Pinot Noir. I often find them boring and over-priced. Pinot Noir is not inexpensive fruit. And it’s a challenge to grow. So nine times out of 10, the grapes that are going towards the rosé aren’t the best stuff. Okay, maybe that’s an exaggeration and oversimplification, but when rosé got trendy, quantity seemed to prevail. Of course, that’s not true across the board, and the one I know I can count on year-over-year is at Bethel Heights Vineyard in the Willamette Valley’s Eola-Amity Hills AVA. This is an intentionally crafted rosé. It’s a showcase versus an afterthought. Until recently, the winery used only its own-rooted Pinot Noir vines from 1977 for this blushing beauty. Unfortunately, that section of the vineyard was eventually lost to phylloxera, but that didn’t deter the family who transitioned to another trusted estate block of Pinot planted in 1999. And the 2024 version is another winner. It’s confident, assertive, and dripping with quality. Not to mention ripe strawberries, juicy watermelon, and all things summer and sun. It’s not only good, it’s mood boosting. Seasonal Affective Remedy. $30

2021 Domaine Michel Lafarge Meursault

White Burgundy. I could just stop there. Those two words complete me. But in case you need more, this sometimes splurge is an every time satisfier. The aromas alone sent a shiver down my spine and my eyes back in my head. And the silky, enveloping texture with its insanely complex array of flavors lit up every taste bud, while the lightning energy had my mouth watering and toes curling. It’s certainly occasion-worthy, but you can also just make it the occasion. And you won’t be sorry. Had me at hello. $80

In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

In the spirit of sharing some of those lesser known wine regions across the United States, let’s take a brief look at Verde Valley AVA.

Located southwest of Sedona, Arizona, and about 100 miles north of the Phoenix area, the Verde Valley AVA encompasses around 200 square miles within the greater Verde Valley. The Verde River flows through the center of the valley from northwest to southeast, with steep higher terrain rising on all sides. The AVA sits at elevations between 3,000 and 5,000 feet with most vineyards around the 3,800 feet elevation marker. The region is sun-drenched with little rain and the soils are mostly alluvial with limestone and clay loam. Irrigation is permitted and often necessary; however, one of the most distinguishing factors for the AVA is the diurnal temperature swing which allows for more balanced ripening of the grapes. The grape varieties here are a mix including Cab, Merlot, Syrah, Grenache, Barbera, and even Aglianico for the reds. For whites: Malvasia Bianca, Viognier, Vermentino, Sauvignon Blanc, and more. Verde Valley is home to around 20 wineries, 130+ acres of vines, and over 25 tasting rooms.

Winery of the Week

Caduceus Cellars was founded by musician and Grammy-winning Tool frontman Maynard James Keenan in 2004. Caduceus and its sister winery, Merkin Vineyards, maintain 110 acres of high elevation vineyards across Arizona, including six in the Verde Valley and one in the Willcox AVA. The vineyards range in elevation from 3,300 to 4,900 feet in a variety of soil compositions (granite, chalk, volcanic, alluvial, limestone, loam, and clay among them), and are managed sustainably. Grapes grown include Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, Aglianico, and Malvasia among dozens of others. Caduceus Cellars and Merkin Vineyards operate two tasting rooms, one open to the public in the historic town of Jerome, Arizona and one available for private tastings in Cottonwood, Arizona. Pp poop They offer a wide range of white, rosé, and red wines including blends and single varietals. The Caduceus line is crafted more representative of Old World-style dry European wines while the Merkin Vineyard line is more of a New World fruit-forward style. They produce around 14,000 cases of wine annually and are easily one of the more recognized labels from this relatively unknown AVA, which they also helped to officially establish in 2021.

Recommendations: Based on my tasting of the red wine flight from the Caduceus line, I would recommend the 2022 Primer Paso (a blend of Syrah, Durif, and Malvasia), the 2021 Le Cortigiane Oneste (100% Barbera and my personal favorite), and the 2022 Anubis (a blend of Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, and Aglianico). I brought both the Oneste and Anubis home and plan to age the Anubis for a few more years. That Barbera though…that one will be going down soon!

In the Spirit

I have met more women winery owners and winemakers in Spain than most other wine regions or countries in which I’ve traveled (the only exception maybe being the Willamette Valley in Oregon). Granted, this is not hard data and more of an anecdotal and personal observation, but one that I have certainly noted. And since it was recently International Women’s Day and I’ve been writing a lot about Rioja recently, I wanted to share one more of my insights from Rioja Camp, the exciting news that Raquel Pérez Cuevas was elected as the first female President of Rioja DOCa and the Rioja Wine Interprofessional Organization - a significant development in one of the most renowned wine regions of the world.

Raquel, who welcomed our class to Rioja Camp, is a proprietor and fourth generation winemaker of the Ontañón family. The Ontañón Family winemaking company represents four generations and produces wines from their family-owned vineyards in the DOCa Rioja, DO Rueda, and DO Ribera de Duero appellations, through Bodegas Ontañón, Queirón, and Rippa Dorii. Raquel holds degrees in agricultural engineering, oenology, and business management, and is fluent in Spanish, English, and French, positioning her as a natural global ambassador for Rioja. In her leadership role with DOCa Rioja, she hopes to emphasize unity, transparency, and shared responsibility across the region as well as promoting Rioja’s diversity - in grape varieties, soils, climates, wines, and beyond - on an international level.

So, in the spirit of Women’s History Month, here’s a peek inside the Ontañón Family’s newest winery, in Raquel’s home village of Quel, Queirón. Quel sits in the Rioja Oriental zone of DOCa Rioja in the Cidacos River Valley, between the Sierra Yerga and Sierra la Hez mountain ranges. It’s a unique area and home to the “Barrio de Bodegas,” ancient winemaking caves from the 18th century that were built into sheer sandstone cliffs.

Queirón, a long-time dream of Raquel’s father Gabriel, is a four-level, gravity-flow winery built into a historic, existing cave within Quel where they process grapes from more than 30 separate vineyard parcels located in and around the village, including the Garnacha vineyard “El Arca,” planted in 1892, and the “La Pasada” Tempranillo vineyard planted at some of the highest elevation vineyards in the entire DOCa Rioja. The six limited collection wines produced here are intended to express the soul of Quel and are as such labeled under the DOCa’s village-level classification of origin, Vinos de Quel.

In the Room Where It Happened

This past weekend, I had the opportunity to attend the first annual Oregon Truffle Dinner at Anacréon Winery, as part of the winery’s new intimate dinner experiences.

Nestled in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, Anacréon Winery is the realization of a long-time dream for husband and wife, Kipp and Danell Myers. The Utah-natives began as wine travelers, but after a few visits to the Willamette Valley, they decided to open their own winery and share their passion with others. And that’s exactly what they do through their privately hosted tasting experiences where you share in this special time, often with Danell and Kipp, because for them, wine is connection and community.

The Truffle Dinner was held at the winery’s newly opened Tasting House, which sits at the heart of the Belle Colline Vineyard overlooking the Ribbon Ridge, the Dundee Hills, and of course, the Chehalem Mountains. The intimate dinner, much like the winery’s ongoing tasting experiences, featured the clever creations of Chef Erick Caballero paired with the Estate’s wines. And while the delectables are the star of the experience, it’s the connections made that will leave you fulfilled - whether those are with your own company, newly met friends, or Kipp and Danell themselves. It’s that whole thing about wine bringing people to a shared table again. And if that table includes truffle-laden dishes, well, that’s all the better.

In Depth

Let’s keep rolling on unusual grapes this week because I’ve found a few winners in my recent travels, like this Pineau d’Aunis from Domaine Colin and the little known Coteaux du Vendômois region of the Loire Valley. I first came upon this wine a few years ago in the Loire, but again more recently at a restaurant in Chicago.

Pineau d’Aunis is a grape variety used to produce single-varietal and blended red wines. It brings a distinct character, producing a range of bright red fruit flavors, to herbal and peppery notes, with a notable tannic structure and acidity. Prior to my visit to the Loire, I had heard of neither the grape nor the appellation, but that’s no surprise as 90% of Vendôme’s vineyards were pulled out after WWII. Fortunately in 2001, the region was designated as an AOC for wine in France and producers started to refocus their efforts on the local grapes. Now that said, there’s currently only around 20 producers, and I’ll be honest, a lot of it still needs refinement, but that’s also to be expected in a region that is reviving its winemaking. But there were also a few producers that stood out for exceptional quality, talent, and some beautifully crafted wines - and for me Domaine Colin was at the top of that list.

Domaine Colin has been farmed since 1735, and today Patrice Colin and his son, Pierre François represent the eighth and ninth generations farming 28 hectares of Pineau d’Aunis, Chenin, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, and Chardonnay. They focus on winemaking with natural yeast and minimal intervention. And they do it expertly. I had the opportunity to taste their Chenin, red blend of Pineau d’Aunis and Pinot Noir, and several vintages of their limited edition “Red Intuition,” a 100% Pineau d’Aunis (including a 2008 that has aged exquisitely). The Red Intuition comes from vines planted in 1890, where soil work is done by horse and carried out in harmony with the moon’s phases. It’s then vinified and aged in both barrels and amphorae. Unfortunately, the Intuition is not available here in the states, but the Domaine’s current vintages are imported and absolutely worth seeking out.

In the Moment

We’ve all likely seen images of barrel rooms, have maybe walked through them, tasted from them, or even had the opportunity to work in them. But have you seen *racking take place?

*Racking is the process of transferring wine from one vessel to another and serves a number of different purposes, from removing wine from the gross lees (dead yeast cells and other solids leftover from fermentation), or to provide oxygen to the wine as part of maturation.

In Rioja, when it comes to racking, a few cellars continue an old tradition of carrying out this process by candlelight. They begin by releasing wine from a full barrel into another empty barrel or vessel as seen here at Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta.

As the wine flows, the cellar master checks the clarity of the wine by candlelight. The moment they see sediment in the wine as it’s transferring, which indicates they are nearing the bottom of the barrel where the sediment has settled, they stop the flow and move on to another full barrel. The process then begins all over again until every barrel has been racked.

The number of times this process takes place depends on the cellar. For example, in the case of La Rioja Alta S.A., this process occurs every six months for its barrel aging wines - and that’s across some 50,000 barrels!

In Production

Something new, fun, and exciting is fermenting. The thing I love most about wine is sharing it. I do it often with friends, family, fellow travelers, writers, and of course nearly anyone that I meet through my various channels or organically around the world. Well, I’m now spreading that love of wine and sharing it with anyone visiting (or living in) Willamette Valley, as well as officially for travelers staying at the fabulously chic, cozy, and woman-owned Compass McMinnville.

My tastings, which kicked off last month, are built around the guest’s curiosities and interests, whether it’s discovering more of what makes the Willamette Valley so fascinating, or adventuring beyond. For example, you can compare Oregon bubbles to Champagne, taste local Pinot Noir or Chardonnay next to those from around the globe, dive deeper into Willamette Valley favorites without the rush of hopping from place to place, get geeky on the basics of tasting, wine 101, or even explore wines from around the world. It’s truly a choose-your-adventure tasting, thoughtfully curated, story-driven, and hosted without crowds or pretense - just exceptional wine and great conversation. And of course, guests are also treated to a random bottle from my own collection, because it’s still all about sharing!

Visiting the Willamette Valley or know someone that is? You know where to find me. (When I’m not buzzing around the world collecting more wine and stories! )

In the Hopper

Speaking of buzzing around the world…The wine is calling. Obviously, I’m answering. I’m currently in route to Japan where grape-based wine is on the scavenger hunt! Then it’s off to Italy, California, and Armenia, all in the coming weeks. Travel season is here and it’s about to get real! Stay-tuned. But before things get too chaotic, I promise to get you that Willamette Valley Guide reboot before the end of the month. More wine, more world, more words. See you on the other side.