Every Little Bit
Wine Travel Beyond the Socials
I didn’t think I’d have time to pull this together this week. But I was reminded today that every little bit of time spent, no matter how little or much, on finding a bit of joy or a moment for oneself in a day counts. A little can go a long way. So today, I sat down to write “a little bit” because writing about wine and the stories and places that surround it, is my “me” time in many ways. It brings me energy, joy, satisfaction, and a sense of purpose and accomplishment. No one is telling me I need to show up in this space. I have no deadlines, no boss, no sponsors. I just love it, and honestly, those of you that subscribe, follow, share, and read, the very fact that you are here is greatly valued and keeps me coming back. You enable and encourage me to do what I love, and that’s worth every little bit. Thank you. And thanks also to the many folks behind the wines in my glass this week from which every little sip was savored and every word was inspired. Let’s get this thing started!
In My Glass
2019 I Custodi “Aetneus” Etna Rosso Contrada Muganazzi
I came across this wine at a local restaurant recently. The description on the wine menu stated simply, “It’s perfect.” That’s high praise, and frankly a bold statement, so I had to give it a go. Plus it was from Etna and I kind of have a thing for wines from that region. So, was it perfect? Well, I bought two bottles. One to enjoy with dinner, and one to take home for prolonged enjoyment. I’d say that’s the mark of a wine that hit the freaking mark. It had it all - balance, texture, length. It made my mouth water and my eyes light up. Maybe it’s the volcanic energy, maybe it was my mood, but this wine in that moment, was certainly nothing less than perfect. Erupting. $39
2023 MAN Family Wines Chenin Blanc
On the heels of my Loire holiday, I thought it would be fun to taste through and compare the Chenin Blancs I had at home from around the world while the benchmark region was still fresh on my palate. I’ll break down my takeaways on the tasting soon, but for now, this was the fan favorite in the seven-bottle lineup. I often think Chenin can sometimes resemble Chardonnay. but also sometimes Riesling. In this case, it had more Chardy vibes, but with the intensity and brilliance of Chenin itself. This South African quaffer from Cape Coast was viscous, long, and popping with a complex range of flavors. Really kinda remarkable at this price point. Man! $10
2015 Goodfellow Family Cellars Heritage No. 4
I was gunna hold off on this one until I found my words and I will likely find more words. I will also most certainly dedicate more space here to this producer soon. So today, let’s start here: I’m Pinot picky. I say it often. I’ve also had only one Pinot Noir producer sitting in my top slot for the 2.5 years I’ve lived in the Willamette Valley, with the other places in my top three in constant flux. There are a lot of good - outstanding even - wines in this Valley, but to make my top three, it has to be high-quality AND one that I personally enjoy. It’s a tall order for a wine that’s admittedly not my grape. That said, I can recognize when a Pinot Noir is in the top tier for quality and this one achieves that in spades. It also, well, it frankly made me swoon. I’m still kinda sitting here in awe about it. So, while I gather my professionalism and composure, make sure to check out this library wine from Goodfellow and Whistling Ridge Vineyard before it’s gone. Verklempt.
2019 Adrien Dhondt 'Chetillons de Haut' Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger Grand Cru Extra Brut
Yeah, it’s another pricey one for this week. I don’t often spend this kinda money on one wine. And I didn’t on this one. It was graciously shared with me and some fellow wine lovers. But, given the opportunity and the right moment, I most certainly would. In other words, this isn’t a bottle I’d pop on a random Tuesday, unless for a really good reason. It’s a Champagne I’d reserve for a special occasion, an important moment, and most certainly real connections (that also love Champagne). On opening, the wine definitely demonstrated some oxidative notes (caramel and nuttiness), but as it sat in the glass over the course of several hours, holy moly! The breadth, depth, tension! It just kept coming alive, wafting with aromas and flavors of florals, spice, citrus, orchard fruits, chalky and saline minerality, beeswax, and brioche. Reverberation. $205
In the Spotlight
Wine Region of the Week
It is said sparkling wine got its start in Limoux in the Abbey of St. Hilaire in 1544, when a group of monks accidentally discovered the sparkling wine process. After laying down the wines in the Abbey’s caves to rest for the winter, they came back in the spring to discover the wines had developed an effervescence (generated from remaining yeast eating the residual sugar in the sweet-style wines and thereby releasing carbon dioxide in the bottle). And so, the world’s first pet-nat was born - aka Methode Ancestrale.
Fast forward a few hundred years and “Cru Limoux” was the Languedoc’s first controlled appellation, established in 1929, with additional appellations and appellation names added until each was grouped under two overarching AOCs in 2009: AOC Limoux and AOC Crémant de Limoux. Within the two AOCs there are three sparkling appellations, AOC Limoux Blanquette de Limoux Méthode Traditionelle, AOC Limoux Méthode Ancestrale, and AOC Crémant de Limoux, as well as two still wine appellations, White Limoux and Red Limoux.
The region of Limoux is found in the Languedoc appellation of southern France and can be broken down into four distinct terroirs: Terroir d’Autan, Terroir Méditerranéen Terroir Oceanique, and Terroir Haute Vallee. Although each of the terroirs has unique features and microclimates, they all benefit from a climate influenced by winds, and both the Mediterranean and Atlantic weather patterns. The vineyards are planted at elevations between 650 and 1,500 feet, providing cooler temperatures that help preserve acidity in the grapes. The soils are predominantly limestone and clay, which lend to the structure and minerality of the wines typically made from Mauzac, Chardonnay, and Chenin Blanc grapes.
For the sparkling wines, Blanquette de Limoux is the oldest sparkling wine in France and made from the local Mauzac grapes. It has a delicate taste with notes of green apple and lemon. Crémant de Limoux is primarily made from Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc grapes, and is known for a more complex and elegant taste and longer finish. Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale is made using the oldest method of sparkling wine production, and has a more creamy texture and a lightly sweet to sweet taste. As for the still wines, the whites are made from Chardonnay, Mauzac or Chenin, while the reds must be comprised of three varieties of which Merlot, Cot (Malbec), Syrah, and Grenache are primary varieties with Cabernets Franc as Sauvignon as secondary varieties.
Wineries of the Week
This week I want to highlight two rising stars of the AOC Crémant de Limoux. I’ve had the pleasure to personally taste these sparkling wines - in one case several times - and I’ve consistently been impressed at the overall quality and value, as well as the talent and genuineness of the winemaking families. (I should also note that these families also make still wines under the AOC Limoux designation, but I have not yet tasted those, so can only speak to the sparklings - but if their quality is any indication…)
Domaine Delmas is a third generation vineyard and winery. The family cultivates vines in the extreme southwest of the Languedoc, at the foot of the Pyrenees, where you’ll find both Mediterranean and Atlantic climatic influences. Situated specifically in the Upper Valley of the Limoux AOC, the Delmas family’s 76 acres of vineyards take in 300+ days of sun and just the right amount of rain. A cooler region owing to the elevation, the east-facing vineyards are sheltered from oceanic influences. And it’s here you’ll find the family organically tending Chardonnay, Mauzac, Chenin, and Pinot Noir and producing around 12,500 cases of wine including Blanquette de Limoux, Crémant de Limoux, and still Limoux wines.
My recommendations: Audace, Sacres, and the Blanquette de Limoux Mémoire.
Next up is Domaine Pasquetto, which is relatively new to the scene, but in my opinion, about to take it by storm. In 1992, Jean Marie and Maria Angeles began tending the family vineyard in the foothills of the Pyrenees where the climate is notably cooler than in much of Languedoc. In 2019, they launched their own line of wines and in 2023, their two sons, Clément and Adrien, took the helm leading with experience, innovation, and passion. Together, they craft some delicious, quality wines from 60 acres of vineyards in two communes: La Digne d'Amont and Pauligne. You know I don’t mince words when it comes to sparkling wine, and the two recommendations below made a strong and positive first impression. I look forward to watching the trajectory of this family production.
My recommendations: Le Brut AOC Crémant de Limoux and La Promise AOC Crémant de Limoux Brut Rosé
In Depth
Mauzac is thought to be native to the Limoux region. It’s a white grape often referred to as “Blanquette” for the fine white bloom on the leaves of the vine. The grape variety has a tendency to ripen late, which helps it to retain its naturally high acidity, making it well-suited to sparkling wine production for which it is used in both the Limoux and Gaillac appellations of Southern France. Mauzac typically displays aromas and flavors of green apple, acacia blossom, and apricot, with occasional toasty notes.
In Kindness
A few weeks ago I shared the news of the fires in Languedoc. Unfortunately, more wildfires have raged since my story - including one of the largest in France in 75 years. This massive blaze devastated the Corbières region of Languedoc to the tune of 42,000 scorched acres! For context, that is greater an area than the city of Paris. The fire has since been contained, but it took 2,000 firefighters, 500 firefighter vehicles, cost the life of one woman, and injured 11 firefighters. Villages were burned, homes were destroyed, families displaced, and century’s old vineyards and wineries were lost.
Earlier this week, I came across this LinkedIn post from Le Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc:
“In recent days, the northern Corbières region has been hit hard by a fire of exceptional magnitude….Among the victims of this tragedy, the cooperative winery*
Cellier des Demoiselles has been particularly affected. A true institution, anchored for 111 years in the history and heart of this territory, it has gone through a century of challenges and transformations before finding itself today facing the cruellest test: ravaged vines, threatened work, and members forced to rebuild everything.”
The Cellier des Demoiselles was founded in 1914 and is named for the women of the village that took over for the men that had gone to the front during the first World War. It was one of the first winegrowers' cooperatives in France and has made 111 vintages within those now fire-ravaged walls. The cooperative is a collective of 15 families spanning four appellations across 865 acres, which they farm with the environment in mind. Now, unfortunately, that environment has turned.
So, in the spirit of “every little bit,” please consider making a donation - of any amount to help this wine community and these families to rebuild not only their physical losses, but also their spirits. The one thing that has always struck me about the Languedoc is the collaborative and welcoming nature of its community, not only toward its native inhabitants, but to outsiders from far and wide. The Languedoc embodies kindness and generosity, and I know, they would appreciate every little bit of ours.
(p.s. The linked page for contributions can be translated to English, and the site does accept credit cards securely.)
*A cooperative winery is a collection of member winegrowers that come together to execute their harvests at a shared facility with a qualified team. It’s an opportunity for small family farmers and producers that otherwise might not have the means or resources to manage their production, or make wine themselves, to pool those resources, while also earning income. The aforementioned Cellier des Demoiselles, fosters a collaborative environment while also celebrating the independent spirit, the family winegrowers have the opportunity to develop their wines either individually or collectively, but always with the support of one another.
In Production and In the Hopper
Phew! What isn’t in production right now. I’m in the final crunch for Slow Wine Guide USA reviews, due at the end of the month, and working on a host of stories to share here including more from this summer’s adventures, Chenin and Albarino comparatives, book reviews, Paris travel recs, and a deep dive back into Taurasi.
In the Moment
And now, in the spirit of taking a little bit more time for self-care and finding a few more moments of joy in my busy day, I’m gunna venture off to my local wine bar to taste and likely fail at the blind wines of the week, and perhaps even sip something you’ll find here in a future issue. In other words, I’m off to do some research. The work never ends. Ha! My glass will be raised to each of you, thank you.
I've been on a Chenin kick myself lately! Lars has discovered a few that are in a similar price range and very good!