In My Glass
Started the week on the coast with my two kids, spent 24 hours in Boulder, Colorado leaving one there, have poured 158 or so glasses of bubbles, dried 80 plus glasses (dishwasher washes them), written well over 2,000 words (they’re in too many places to total up), hiked up more than 1,000 feet, booked and rebooked plane tickets, and planned a trip to Chicago for the holidays. I think tomorrow is Monday - and that we are still in August - but I’ll be honest, I’m not sure. It’s been a whirlwind start to what’s going to be a busy, busy season. It’s funny, even though I’m not in school anymore, the end of summer still always seems to be the start of something. But while it is the season of change, one thing remains the same - there are wines in my glass. Let’s dive into this week’s picks.
2021 Bodegas Puiggros 'Exedra' Amphora White Single Estate
Garnacha Blanca was my first pick in Boulder this week at Gemini, the Spanish tapas restaurant on the Pearl. It’s become a tradition with my kiddo, copious amounts of tapas for us both, and a glass or two of Spanish wines for me. This week’s pick was a refreshing white wine from Catalunya. This Garnacha Blanca was fermented in clay amphora for about four months, then aged another few months on the lees in a mix of amphora and cement. It was dry, crisp, tart and tangy, and a killer match with the patatas bravas, pan con tomate, and roasted red pepper, walnut dip with pomegranate molasses. Padrísimo. $25
2020 Jose Antonio Garcia Bierzo Unculin Tinto
By the glass number two at Gemini this week was a Mencia from the Spanish region of Bierzo. As I’ve mentioned before, this has become my go-to Spanish red. I find Mencia can often be reminiscent of Cab Franc; specifically, Cab Franc from the Loire in that earthy, dirty, savory, leafy, and crunchy berry way. Well, this one was so similar, I had to order a taste of the same Mencia again later in the week at my local wine bar to compare next to a Cab Franc from Chinon. The results: both wines are solidly in my wheelhouse. The Chinon was definitely more intense, slightly less fruity, and a touch more acidic, but that Mencia was a close relative. And with the Spanish fare that extra red berry pop of the Mencia is mouth-watering perfection. It’s well-known that Cabernet Franc is my boyfriend, but this Mencia, it’s a budding situationship. $23
I know there are a lot of Barolo fanatics out there. And while I’m not one of them, I get it. Every time I have the pleasure, I get a chill down my spine, in the best of ways. Barolo commands attention and presence - and typically a lot of patience to let these expensive beauties age (thus why I don’t have many). But every now and then, and with the right meal, you can find one that’s ready to go sooner than later. And this Brovia Barolo, well, it’s a special level of good from its aromas of dried rose petal, tar, and cherries, to its both structured and mouth-watering sensations. This one was so bold, classic, and nerve-tingling it almost had me wishing it was fireplace season and time for a big bowl of truffle laced short-rib pasta. And that’s saying something, cuz this girl isn’t ready for the rainy season yet. Sacrificial. $75
2013 Sekthaus Raumland Bürgel Blanc de Blancs Reserve Extra Brut
I don’t know about you, but I haven’t had much sparkling wine from Germany, and if I have, it’s been Riesling. That’s why this traditional method bubbly of Chardonnay was a total shocker in my blind tasting group this week. It was yeasty, nutty, laced with forest floor and orchard fruit, and a lingering hint of citrus. It had depth, character, and length, and had all of us guessing it was an aged Champagne when in fact it was an aged bubbly from the Rheinland-Pfalz. Unfortunately, I can’t find this one available in the States, but I had to share, because if you do come across a sparkling wine from Sekthaus Raumland, buy it. Don’t waffle, waiver, or waste time. Mercedes-Benz. 55.00€
In the Spotlight
Winery of the Week
My first taste of Champagne Henriet Bazin at Pops for Champagne in Chicago, several years ago, was love at first sip. But after a visit to the winery in Villers-Marmery located in the Montagne de Reims in the Champagne region of France, I quickly came to understand that these wines were far more special than I could have imagined.
Fourth generation Marie-Noëlle is the winemaker for the estate and her husband Nicolas gently tends the vineyards. They work they land and the grapes as artists, with an innate appreciation, respect for, and intuitive understanding for nature and its gifts. Nicolas gave me an in depth tour of his vineyards last year, 7.75 hectares of vines (34 plots) spread between Verzenay and Verzy, classified Grand Cru, as well as Villers-mery, classified Premier Cru. The soils and subsoils are varied featuring very healthy mixtures of alluvium, clay, silt, marl, limestone, and chalk across vineyards ranging in elevation from 110 meters to 230 meters above sea level. The aspects and orientations are also varied, but all share Nicolas’ holistic viticultural practices as he works the vines utilizing the energy between the moon and the earth, as well as people and the vine. The vineyards felt alive and almost soulful.
Winemaker Marie-Noëlle’s style in the cellar is equally as thoughtful as the stewardship in the vines. After plot-based fermentation, in which the wines spend nine months on their lees in enamel vats, the wines are tasted to determine the blend for the new cuvées. The final decision to bottle a wine as a single-vineyard or single-varietal vintage wine, or as a NV cuvée with their reserve wines kept in Solera since 1968, is determined entirely on the unique expressions from each vineyard and vintage. Regardless of style, each Champagne ages a minimum of three years in the bottle on the lees before disgorgement and dosage is kept to a minimum.
This grower Champagne house has two series of labels, the “terroir series,” representative of the specific regions and plots from 1er to Grand Cru, and the “character series,” which speaks to the vivid personality of the wine. It’s difficult to choose a favorite, each being so distinctive, balanced, complex, and emblematic of the care and heart poured into these wines at every step, but my recommendations would be to start with any or all of the following:
The NV, Blanc de Blancs, Premier Cru, Villers-Marmery, Extra Brut
The NV Meunier, Faverolles et Coëmy, Mono Parcelle, Brut
The Marie-Amélie, Premier Cru, Blanc de Blancs, Millésime 2014, Brut Nature
And, the Arsène, Grand Cru, Vintage 2015, Extra Brut
These grower Champagnes are available, albeit scattered, in the states and absolutely worth seeking out for anyone that loves a high-quality, distinctive bubbly. And if you’re not yet convinced of the passion, artistry, and heart behind these Champagnes, I’ll leave you with this: Nicolas plants a tree for every visitor that comes to the winery. In his own words, “Our visitors often come from far away to meet us and discover our vineyard and our methods that respect our terroir, our plots and above all the environment. From this spring (2023), for each visit, we will plant a tree. We know it's a meager compensation, but it's a way to keep you by our side and make us all aware of the environment.”
When Nicolas finds seedlings and young trees in the vineyard, he gently removes them, brings them back to his nursery where he raises them until they are strong enough to be replanted. He then has guests select “their” tree to be replanted in a special area of the forest, overlooking the vineyard. I couldn’t have been more touched by this heartfelt gesture and what it represents to nature.
My little oak is the one just coming out of its shell on the left side of the photo - it’s reportedly doing well overlooking the vineyards in the Montagne de Reims.
Wine Region of the Week
The Van Duzer AVA in the Willamette Valley, seen sprawling in the distance in the photo above, was established in 2019. It spans approximately 60,000 acres, with around 1,000 acres planted to vine. The AVA is largely known for and characterized by its exposure to the cool, marine breezes that funnel through the famed Van Duzer Corridor, a low-elevation gap in the Coast Range. This constant and daily airflow (usually beginning around 2 p.m. each afternoon) helps to moderate temperatures throughout the year and create a significant diurnal temperature swing during the growing season which helps the grapes retain their natural acidity. Elevations range from 150 to 650 feet above sea level in the Van Duzer with soils of marine sedimentary rocks and basalt, interspersed with volcanic and alluvial deposits. With around 18 vineyards and six wineries, the Van Duzer Corridor AVA is planted predominantly to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, and even some Sauvignon Blanc.
My recommended stops: Van Duzer Vineyards and Andante Vineyard.
In the Know
An American Viticultural Area (AVA) is a federally-recognized region in the United States that defines the geographic origins of vineyards. AVAs are determined by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), and are based on specific geographic, geological, and climatic features that set them apart from other grape growing regions. These regions are often used on wine labels - Napa Valley, Finger Lakes, Columbia Valley, Willamette Valley, Lake Michigan Shore, as examples. In most cases, to use an AVA on a label, at least 85% of the wine must come from grapes grown within the AVA. Some AVAs, like Willamette Valley have stricter regulations, where 95% of the grapes must be from the named AVA. The Augusta AVA in Augusta, Missouri was the first federally designated AVA in the United States in 1980. Prior to Prohibition, Missouri was the second largest wine-producing state in the US, and this 15-square-mile area was delineated for its unique terroir and rich history of viticulture and winemaking. As of now, there are 273 recognized AVAs in 34 states, with more than half of them in California.
In Box
You asked: What do you think about the FDA guidelines potentially moving towards the World Health Organization’s statement that there is no safe amount of alcohol consumption?
Oof! Well, I am not a doctor, nurse, nutritionist, or anyone generally qualified to make any recommendations about health and alcohol intake. That said, alcohol certainly has an impact on health and in excess is proven to be quite damaging. I suppose my opinion on the matter - and again this is not a qualified statement - is that yes, it’s generally not a healthy substance. That said, I believe when consumed in moderation and with an otherwise healthy lifestyle, the negative impacts do not outweigh the net benefits. I’ve read that even moderate consumption can take a few years off of your life. And I guess, for me, the trade-off is one I’m willing to make. Sharing wine with friends and family, over meals, at wineries overlooking vineyards, from barrels, and even with strangers around the world, has enriched my life in ways that I never could have imagined. So for me, as part of my lifestyle (which includes a relatively balanced diet and regular exercise), it’s a calculated risk I’m willing to take. That said, it’s a personal choice and everyone is coming to that decision from a unique place.
In the Hopper
We have a lot coming up! I’m still putting together that next wine guide. I’ve been gathering a few more samples to review and hope to have that ready in the next few weeks.
I also have a special interview with a new Brunello producer as well as some exciting travel news, my first regional wine/travel guide, and a deep dive into a relatively unknown wine region. The ideas are spinning and many! Thank you for following along and if you enjoy what you’re reading, please consider sharing my newsletter with other wine loving, wine drinking, and travel enthusiasts, friends and family. Cheers!