I’m going to venture a guess that you’ve been here before. If you haven’t, you’re lucky. Airport delays. Now this can either be good or bad. Mostly, not great. But if you have the opportunity to meet some interesting, even captivating, people in your transit (planes, trains, cabs, Ubers, cafes, wherever) - and I often do - it can be more than tolerable. Gratifying even. I’ve met people in all walks of life, from around the world, different ages, cultures, places in life, some similar, some vastly different, but mostly engaging. I’ve even ended up in a stranger’s wedding (as a bridesmaid, not a bride), by a lake listening to acoustic guitar until the early morning hours, and once even in a limo with the Secret Service. True story.
And stories are fascinating. They say “truth is often stranger than fiction,” but I’d say, truth is often more fascinating than fiction. Maybe it’s a writer thing, but I don’t think so. Some conversations last minutes, others hours, but I think if you’re paying attention, an observer, open-minded, and probably an extrovert, these kind of conversations and connections can be in some ways, everything - in that moment.
That’s where I am now. Sitting in an airport: O’Hare. My old home airport - which is a weird thing to be home but also not home - and stuck. For hours. Hours, that had you known, you would have escaped to see your people. But you didn’t know. So you couldn’t. Instead, you were in a place, in time, where you met new people and shared stories with these people you never would have met otherwise. I do this on the regular, mostly in wine; but wine, wine stories, wine education, wine travel, and my wine writing aside, these random, unexpected connections are really why I travel. You never come back the same as you were.
In My Glass
Champagne Pierre Moncuit Grand Cru Millesime 2006
Ooooh baby! This was good. Now for my palate, this was hitting its peak. It was definitely showing signs of age - nuttiness and hint of caramel - but it still had verve, yellow orchard fruits, and an acidity to keep you wanting more. If you’re into aged Champagne, you’ll appreciate this and might want to keep letting this one go. If you’re into young, fruity or even brioche-y Champagnes, you could give this a try, but know it won’t be what you’re used to, and may not be what you’re into. In other words, it’s a type - you’re either into it, or you’re not. I suppose that’s true with any wine, but this one will likely be a bit more polarizing. That said, for me, it was in the perfect place, in the perfect moment - the last of three enjoyed over the past few years from my cellar, and shared with friends (and strangers). Swipe (right/left). $130
Ridgecrest Vineyard 2017 Riesling
Oregon Riesling. I have thoughts. I’m a big fan of (dry) Rieslings from Alsace, Finger Lakes, and Germany - hell, even Michigan! I also appreciate well made, off-dry, and sweet Rieslings, but the acidity has to balance the sugars in this case, for my palate anyway. But to-date, Oregon Riesling has honestly been a struggle for me. That’s not to say I haven’t had some great ones, and some typical of the variety, but on the whole, I’ve been markedly unimpressed - until recently. I found Ridgecrest. This is Riesling. It’s textbook. Benchmark. No, actually it’s beyond those things. It’s memorable. It’s everything I want in a Riesling. It’s dry with notes of orchard fruits, citrus, minerality (so much minerality), and a touch of both herbs and petrol with lingering, textural pleasantry and brightly, shining acidity. Bar exceeded. $40
2020 Antoine Sanzay”Les Poyeux” Saumur-Champigny
Yes, I’m back with another Cab Franc. Shocker, I know. But this one isn’t a Saumur or a Chinon. It’s a Saumur-Champigny. This region of the Loire Valley is prized for its limestone soils and its ability to express a fruity and balanced wine with silky tannins and notable freshness. This wine will be a prime example… in a few years. For now, if you can get past its mouth-puckering tannins (and I very much can), you’re in for a real treat. Plums, dark fruits, and earthy hints of soil and root veggies (aka beet, but I don’t want to admit that because I find them icky in most forms), this wine is as complex as CF gets. You’ll need a meal with this one - a rich dish of beans and rice, cassoulet, roasted duck, coq au vin, etc. But if you’re a Cab Franc freak like me, go for it. You won’t be sorry. Beats beets. $49
In the Spotlight
Restaurant of the Week
From its humble beginnings dishing up bowls of mushroom soup to the area’s early settlers in Pennsylvania, to becoming a first class dining destination in Oregon’s wine country, the Czarnecki family has kept tradition at the forefront for four generations at The Joel Palmer House in Dayton, Oregon.
Located in the heart of Willamette Valley wine country, this is a must-stop for anyone in or visiting the area. Now admittedly, this is a splurge (at least for me), but it’s also well worth it. Not only will you leave satisfied and smiling, but you’ll also take with you some great memories steeped in tradition, family, and local culture. The mushroom-laden recipes have been passed down for generations and the wine list includes over 600 local Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs. And then, there’s its commitment to impeccable hospitality. In other words, you’re not rushed out the door to turn a table. Your seat is yours for the duration of the evening and the dedicated team led by Director of Hospitality and Lead Sommelier Levi Seed, will guide and serve at your pace.
And with the delicious, thoughtful, and plentiful creations of Chef/Owner Christopher Czarnecki, you’ll likely want to take your time soaking it all up. The menu changes seasonally, but is always mushroom infused and is available Omakase style (aka chef’s choice) or a la carte by course. And Levi and the team of expert sommeliers will certainly not steer you wrong on the wines to pair.
Long story short, do NOT miss this experience in the Willamette Valley.
My favorites - the three mushroom tart, pan-seared scallops, tandoori duck breast, oysters, and bone marrow (with the whiskey slide of course - don’t ask, just do it).
Things to note: If you have the opportunity to peak into the cellar, note the two sides of the stairwell leading down - one features old wine labels dating back many vintages, the other the autographs of local winemakers. It’s a true slice of Willamette Valley history.
And speaking of wine, take your time perusing the EXTENSIVE menu. The Joel Palmer House boasts some of the only and best verticals of Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs. It’s a mushroom pairing thing. And a good one at that.
Bonus: Wine & Food Pairing of the Week
If you are in the Willamette Valley, run, don’t walk, to the new casual dining space in the cozy Cellar Room at Abbey Road Farm. Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. every Saturday and Sunday, The Bistro features a unique menu curated by Chef Will Preisch that features a mix of small bites and inspired main dishes. Abbey Road Farm wines are also available by the glass or bottle to pair, which brings me to one of the best food and wine pairings I’ve experienced in a long time. Seriously.
Now, I’m not saying I haven’t had pleasing pairings recently; rather, I’m saying this pairing was off the charts insane. It lit up my palate, fired me up, and took both the dish and the wine to new heights. It was so good, I ordered two. What was it you ask? It was the most inventive mussel dish I’ve ever tasted, a Mussel Escabeche Toast. The mussels were steamed and preserved in a mixture of vinegars overnight, served over saffron aioli, topped with pickled fennel, herbs, and edible flowers on sourdough toast. It was hitting all the discerning parts of the palate with tang, spice, salt, crunch, and with hints of both sweetness and bitterness to boot. But when this was paired with the 2022 Trousseau Gris, holy bleeping expletives! The acidity of the wine, which was notable on its own, took the flavors of this dish to even more epic heights. And the dish, in turn, brought out the stone fruit and floral flavors of the wine, making your mouth water for more of each. I’m obsessed.
And while truthfully every dish from the homemade Chex Mix and pork rillette to the pasta Carbonara were bursting with nuance and flavor, but that Escabeche…Damn!
In Living Color
Book Review
I have two book titles from Rebecca Rosenberg sure to provide a whimsical escape this summer. The Champagne Widows and Madame Pommery novels are fictional stories based on the real-life accounts of two of Champagne’s leading ladies, Veuve Clicquot and Madame Pommery.
The tales are charming, easily digestible, and even inspiring as these spirited widows take on society, preserve past the patriarchal norms, and even challenge Napoleon himself! Whether reading for the pure pleasure of fanciful fiction, or as an entertaining launching point for further fact-based research (anyone else binge watch “based on real events” and spend half the night Googling?). These books are easy, feel-good reads for the Champagne curious or enthusiast, a Sunday afternoon, Thursday evening, or Saturday bubble bath. In other words, anytime you’re ready to escape, relax, and unwind. Pairing with a glass (or split - let’s be real) of Champagne obviously isn’t necessary, but it’s certainly recommended.
In the Know
Being new to the Willamette Valley, hearing about prized “Willakenzie” soils was new to me, but then I also just recently learned, “Willakenzie” also refers to two of the Willamette Valley's major rivers: the Willamette and McKenzie.
First up, Willakenzie soil. This is a well-drained, moderately deep, fine loamy, sedimentary soil that's mustard-colored, and is one of the oldest soil types in Oregon's Willamette Valley. Willakenzie soil is typically described as adding more dark fruit character to a wine (Pinot Noir, in particular), like blackberry and black cherry, and sometimes a more earthy note as well.
Now, I’m guessing you might be familiar with the Willamette River for which the Valley is named, but if not, the Willamette River is a major tributary of the Columbia River (the largest river in the PNW running 1,200 miles across 7 states and 1 Canadian province). The Willamette runs 187 miles long and lies entirely in northwestern Oregon in the United States.
As for the McKenzie River, which was new to me, this is a 90-mile tributary of the Willamette River. Volcanic activity in past years has shaped the McKenzie River into pools, dramatic waterfalls, and cascading whitewater rapids (popular with rafters).
Something for everyone I guess - rafting, fishing, hiking, geology, maybe a swimming hole. I live in Oregon now. River swimming is a thing. (I don’t recommend that in Chicago.)
And of course, there’s also wine. There’s even WillaKenzie Estate wines, which I’m definitely here for - especially a glass of their Chardonnay in their newly renovated tasting room overlooking vines in Willakenzie soils (see what I did there?).
In the Hopper
As you’re reading this, I (hopefully) just arrived in Asolo Prosecco DOCG…more to come, plus a personal side trip to Venice…cuz I’m a romantic at heart.
I love how you turn a travel negative into a positive. I've met fascinating people when unexpectedly stuck (especially in airport bars) and it's always such fun. But I think that only happens when you maintain a positive attitude!
My truth is legitimately stranger than fiction- and easier to tell strangers. Weird how that works. I used to travel a few times a months, thankfully I don’t these days (I am forever turned homebody since cancer), but travel delays used to drive me off the wall! I’d love to get to Oregon one day, but outside of short car travel currently I am unable to do much. But our next drive out west we think we will- just gotta get my body better!