Le 14 juillet. Bastille Day commemorates the Storming of the Bastille, a medieval armory, fortress, and political prison raided in 1789 during the French Revolution, as well as the unity of France at the Fête de la Fédération on the same date a year later in 1790. A national holiday in France, Bastille Day is celebrated by French communities around the world, and also occasionally by French-wine loving connoisseurs looking for a reason to “open (or saber) that special bottle.” Yes, I will be among them. I’ll report back, but for now, enjoy this week’s revolutionary summer whites.
In My Glass
2022 Anjou Blanc Thibaud Boudignon
Admittedly, when I hear Anjou, one thing comes to mind: Cabernet Franc. I never even gave a thought to this Loire Valley region’s white wines of Chenin Blanc. Until now. And I won’t stop thinking about this wine anytime soon. It was dry, crisp, complex, and akin to a high-quality white Burg. The grapes were harvested from +35-year-old vines planted in biodynamically farmed soils of schist and siliceous rocks. The wine was fermented with indigenous yeast and aged in varying sizes of oak barrels, of which 20% were new. It denotes ripe orchard and tropical fruits with spice, toast, and zest. It’s a rarity and worth your time (and dime). A flex. $50
I don’t recall the last time I had this Pinot Grigio, but I know it was first introduced to me at a former go-to wine bar in Chicago by a talented Sommelier and good friend that has since moved on (the place unfortunately, has not been the same since). What was the same - the impressiveness of this anything but ubiquitous Pinot Grigio. Like I said, it’s been years, but as soon as I saw the name on this hinterland shop’s neighborhood wine bar and bistro by the glass list, I instantly remembered how much I liked it. And I still do. This isn’t a simple PG. It’s swarthy, layered, textural, and the perfect match with the neighborhood joint’s special recipe of the night: peach and burrata panzanella. Paradoxical (the place and the wine - both worth checking out). $28
2023 Augustina Aurora Vineyard Arneis
I may have just been traipsing about in Italy, but these Piemontese grapes were grown in the Laurelwood soils of the Chehalem Mountains AVA in Willamette Valley, and hand-crafted in Portland, Oregon by Diana Marie Augustina Schultz of Augustina Cellars. This dry white wine is reminiscent of the aromatic northern Italian vino, but more expressive of its Oregon roots with a vibrant and notable acidity. Less floral than a Roero Arneis, here I found more prominent notes of chamomile, stone fruits, and a subtle finish of fresh fennel (hello taralli semi di finocchio!) with a pithy dusting of lemon. I paired this with a melon-prosciutto risotto shared by Jason Wilson and as Augustina intends, this wine paired well with the home-cooked meal. Fusion. $28
In the Spotlight
The Bellini
Gently stir two parts Prosecco DOC and one part fresh (or frozen) peach purée, serve in a chilled flute.
If you’ve been to, or read about, traveling to Venice, Italy, chances are you’ve heard about Harry’s Bar located just off the Grand Canal in a tourist rich area of the Lagoon City. It’s been frequented for decades, most recently by throngs of Americans, but historically by the likes of the famous artist set (also Americans) including Ernest Hemingway, Truman Capote, Alfred Hitchcock, Charlie Chaplin, Orson Welles, Humphrey Bogart, and more currently, George Clooney.
The peachy-dreamy cocktail, perfectly refreshing on a sweltering summer evening after walking through the streets of Venice and the crowded Piazza San Marco, was invented here by the bar’s founder, Giuseppe Cipriani, in or about 1948. The drink was inspired by the region's fresh, locally grown white peaches and sparkling wines (hello Prosecco!). Coined “Bellini” by Cipriani, the name is believed to be inspired by the paintings of 15th-century Venetian artist Giovanni Bellini.
Patrons of Harry’s Bar are said to have been drawn to the understated destination for Cipriani’s conversation, the simple menu, and its relative quiet. Well, it’s certainly no longer quiet; nearly every tourist book, guide, and blog and Instagram post references this iconic watering hole. That said, it’s those aforementioned international guests, among others, that spread the word about this low-alcohol pre-dinner treat.
So, is it worth it? I’ve been to Venice four times. It wasn’t until the fourth time, I bit the bullet. I mean, after all, I’ve done all the other touristy things (and plenty of off-the-list explorations) in this fascinating, one-of-a-kind city. Why not complete the guide book list? The place, well, it is understated (except for the white-jacketed, formally dressed bar tender). I managed to hit it up at a somewhat quiet time. And I did find good conversation with other patrons at the bar. The drink, however delicious, was priced for people just like me - stopping in to see what Harry’s is all about - $22.
Do I need to go back? No. Am I glad I went? Check.
Note: In 2001, the Italian Ministry for Cultural Affairs declared Harry's Bar a national landmark.
Wine Tasting Room
Those that know me, or have followed me for any length of time, know that I’m a proud proponent of Michigan wine. I spent five years working in cellars and vineyards in the Lake Michigan Shore AVA, was a tourism advocate for the same as well as the Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission AVAs further north, was a judge in the State’s wine competition, and I was also a marketing consultant for the Lake Michigan Shore Wine Trail. I’ve even taken these wines on the road, to show them off in California at this year’s CabFrancAPalooza, held a few months ago. I’ve explored Michigan’s wine regions top to bottom. I know the people, the stories, the landscape, and while I will tell you there’s some absolute swill out there (as there is anywhere and mostly everywhere), I’ll also tell you that I’m a whole-hearted believer and I have been since 2011, or thereabouts.
Being from Chicago, and having moved to Willamette Valley in the PNW, my short and infrequent trips back “home” don’t often include a trek up to the Mitten State. Time is short and my Chicago family (chosen and of origin) comes first. But that doesn’t keep me from getting my hands on Michigan wine, or still keeping in touch with my Michigan winemaking friends. And one of the ways I get my mits on those Up North nectars, is by visiting the only Michigan wine tasting room outside of the state’s borders: Up North in Geneva, Illinois.
Up North is a mother-daughter owned tasting room in the far western reaches of the Chicago area. The cozy and tastefully appointed, always buzzing destination features Michigan wines from both the Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsula AVAs, hence “Up North.” The selection rotates monthly with a “featured partner” predominantly showcased. And like the tasting rooms of yesteryear (aka pre-pandemic), you can do tasting flights seated or standing at the bar, or you can purchase glasses, bottles, and snacks, as well as an assortment of Michigan ciders, beers, and soft drinks to enjoy inside at any number of seating areas (high-tops, standard tables, salon-style seating areas), or outside on the patio weather permitting. Board and card games are also on-hand to play among friends or family, and I can personally attest, these make for fabulous and laugh-filled evenings.
I love it here. I discovered Up North about two months before we moved, and I’ve been back three times since (once every return trip to Chicago in the last 18 months). The staff is well-trained. Not only do they all know each producer and every wine, they also taste every wine individually as well as within a team setting. And they get to know their guests. What they like, what they don’t, allergies, pre-dispositions, who might be more willing to explore, and how to encourage getting out of the box. They offer winemaker pop-ups, pairings, classes, and a wine club.
So yes, I stop in because I want to stay on top of my Michigan vintages, but I will keep going back because Cathy Humphreys & Amy Goedken are not only equally as passionate about Michigan wines as I am, they also have a good thing going, and they’re damn fine people. If you live in the Chicago area or are passing through, are curious about or just want to revisit your favorite wines from your last Traverse City, Michigan vacay, stop in, say hi, and plan to spend a few hours in Pure Michigan - in Illinois.
In the News
Speaking of Michigan…this just in:
Michigan Wine Collaborative Partners with Travel Retailer Hudson to Launch MI Wine Bar & Book Store at Gerald R. Ford International in Grand Rapids, Michigan
Open now, the Ink by Hudson location at the Gerald R. Ford International Airport in Grand Rapids, Michigan, will feature Michigan wines within the iconic airport chain bookstore. The “Ink by Hudson” bookstore now offers travelers a taste of Michigan right in the airport terminal at a self-serve wine bar. These Michigan-only wines are offered on taps activated by an RFID bracelet and available to enjoy while browsing your book/magazine choices pre (or post)-flight.
“Hudson is dedicated to tailoring airport retail and dining to the unique tastes of travelers, offering them exploration and discovery during their journey,” said Brian Quinn, Chief Operating Officer, Retail, North America, Avolta. “Our partnership with Michigan Wine Collaborative celebrates the state’s rich cultural heritage and local flavors, narrating a compelling story, and cultivating a sense of place.”
Looks like it might be time to accept that connection through Grand Rapids!
In the Moment
untitled/unedited: Scenes from a Venetian Balcony
Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to Kristy's Wine Travels to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.