My love for Cabernet Franc is well documented (it even has its own hashtag: #cabernetfrancismyboyfriend). Our story began in the Finger Lakes of New York, deepened through Michigan’s AVAs, and wandered into Hungarian wine bars and cellars before becoming a full-blown obsession in France’s Loire Valley.
I’ve made it, poured it, taught it, and toasted with it across cool-climate corners of the U.S., France, Hungary, Argentina, and even Spain. Cabernet Franc has shown me many expressions of itself over the years: cerebral, savory, restrained, electric. But I should have known it would be an Italian that ultimately captured my attention.
Italy looks very good on my boyfriend.
And so this week’s special issue is dedicated to those who, like me, tend to fall for Italians.
Special Feature
Cabernet Franc’s Seductive Evolution: Now Fluent in Italian
Cabernet Franc has long shined in the Loire Valley of France and in the exquisite blends of Bordeaux reds, but it is quietly moving beyond its cult-status and gaining attention among a growing number of wine consumers. Regions across the globe are staking a claim to this eminently drinkable variety, with many celebrating it as their regional star. Winemakers worldwide are raising its profile, both in red blends and through exemplary single-varietal expressions. From across the U.S. and Hungary, to the Languedoc, South Africa, Argentina - and of course, Italy too - Cabernet Franc is on the rise. But before we dive into its Italian chapter, let’s get to know the grape itself.
A Grape of Many Places
Cabernet Franc is a practical grape in the vineyard. It doesn’t require an extended growing season, making it more reliable in cooler vintages, and available for earlier harvests in seasons when rains or fires could pose a threat later on. It also generally fares better in warmer climates than earlier-ripening, thin-skinned varieties, due to its higher heat tolerance and better retention of acidity. This combination of flexibility and resilience allows Cabernet Franc to maintain quality and balance across a multitude of climates.
As a wine, Cabernet Franc is known for its freshness, bright acidic lift, and food-friendly versatility. Its expressions range from crunchy, brambly red fruits with the occasional green pepper or earthy note to more lush, dark-fruited wines with warming spices. It’s even being made in the juicy carbonic-maceration styles (like Beaujolais Nouveau), appassimento-style (like Amarone), sometimes without any oak at all, and yes, as rosé, white, and even sparkling wines.
But it’s not just climate or winemaking that creates these myriad expressions, there’s also terroir. The earthy notes of the Loire, the minerality found in parts of Argentina, the crunchy red fruits of the Finger Lakes, the raspberry notes of Livermore, California, or the dried herbs and black pepper of Napa Valley, all reflect their place.
But what of Italian Cabernet Franc? Nicoló Carrara, winemaker at Tuscany’s Tenuta Argentiera, describes it this way:
“I find it keeps a Mediterranean character, with silkier tannins and very fine spicy notes. It’s a grape that expresses terroir very clearly.”
Call Me By My Name: Cabernet Francesco
And I concur, having often described Italian Cab Francs as tasting distinctively of Italy, but why Cabernet Franc for this Mediterranean wine-producing region largely renowned for its Sangiovese and Nebbiolo?
It all started in the largely white wine producing regions of the Northeast, specifically Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Veneto where it was imported from Bordeaux over 150 years ago, along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carménère. Owing to the cool nights and gravelly, alluvial soils Cabernet Franc thrived, becoming firmly established; however, at the time it was often referred to as Bordò or Petite-Bordeaux and was frequently blended with or confused for Carménère.
“Cabernet Franc, especially in Northeastern Italy, is often known for its vegetal notes owing to our microclimate and soil characteristics,” says Giovanni Ruzzene, winemaker at Le Monde in Friuli. “But when planted in our silty-clay and limestone soils, we are able to reduce the vegetal character and obtain the unique savory, spicy nuances that are distinctive for the variety.”
The director of Consorizio Vini Colli Berici e Vicenza in the Veneto region, Giovanni Ponchia, also agrees that the right soil makes a big difference, adding, “The Colli Berici area, thanks to the peculiarity of the calcareous-clay soils, manages to ripen the grapes well, making the vegetal notes more elegant and never invasive.”
Ever in fashion, the Bordeaux varieties eventually made their way to Tuscany. They were most notably planted from Italian cuttings at Castiglioncello di Bolgheri by Marchese Mario Incisa Della Rocchetta in the 1940s. It was from these vines in 1972, Marchese Mario Incisa along with his nephew, Marchese Piero Antinori, introduced the world to the first official Sassicaia (vintage 1968), a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. By 1978, Sassicaia took the top spot for Cabernets worldwide in a blind tasting for Decanter, followed by a 100-point rating from Robert Parker in 1985. A Bordeaux-mania of sorts ensued, leading to a significant increase in the plantings of the Cabernets and Merlot and the production of Super Tuscans throughout Tuscany.
Alberto Moretti Cuseri of Tenuta Sette Ponti and the family’s Orma winery in Tuscany believes the grape is revered in the coastal areas of Tuscany for its contributions of freshness and elegance to a blend, adding, “Cabernet Franc is able to integrate and complement its various nuances found around the world into a particularly balanced expression in Italy. Its aromatics are capable of offering intense and multifaceted aromas, and on the palate, it offers a natural sweetness and softness, which make the wines elegant and harmonious.”
“Here it finds a balance between ripeness and freshness,” says Carrara. “In our coastal climate it can maintain tension, aromatic precision, and elegance.”
And both Moretti Cuseri and Carrara agree that soils are key. Carrara credits the limestone-based soils of Argentiera’s Ventaglio vineyard for imparting an energy into the wine he hasn’t found elsewhere, while Moretii Cuseri concurs the grape requires careful soil selection. “Cabernet Franc thrives in well-draining soils which prevent waterlogging and promote balanced root development,” he says. “These conditions help the vine maintain controlled vigor and focus on the grape quality.”
Living la Dolce Franc
And certainly, growers and winemakers across Italy appear to agree that Cabernet Franc has found a suitable home in this Mediterranean country. Plantings of the variety have surged since the 1990s, with approximately 16,000 acres planted across the boot. Marco Sabellico, editor of Gambero Rosso’s Vini d’Italia guide, credits this to the grape’s resilience and its ability to respond to quality viticulture.
“Cabernet Franc has become a staple in many parts of Italy,” he says. “It is responding well to global warming and with careful viticulture, it can produce deep and elegant wines. Cabernet Sauvignon, and especially Merlot, which were very popular in the 1980s and 1990s, are having a hard time doing so.”
Through my own experiences in Italy in the past 10 years, I can also attest to Cabernet Franc’s rising prominence. As previously mentioned, it became widely used in Super Tuscans, particularly in the Bolgheri region of Tuscany. But it was also in these regions that I began noticing more Cabernet Franc-dominant blends as well as single-varietal bottlings, including the discovery of Le Macchiole’s Paleo Rosso. Easily among my favorite wines of all time, Paleo is widely recognized as the first 100% Cabernet Franc to be produced in Bolgheri since 2001.
And it’s not simply my predilection for the variety. Sabellico, editor for the 1,000+ page Vini d’Italia guide and one of 70 tasters for Gambero Rosso which evaluates more than 40,000 Italian wines each year, is also seeing Cabernet Franc on the rise.
“Today many Bolgheri wines are based on Franc, and its percentage increases in blends,” says Sabellico. “And, in the Northeast, it’s a widely consumed, inexpensive, single-varietal wine with a good reputation.”
Interestingly, the Bolgheri Consorzio officially recognized Cabernet Franc’s potential in 2011, permitting its use as a single-varietal DOC wine. Carrara sees this as a sign of a region’s maturity, when the terroir can truly sustain the grape’s identity.
“In our area, Cabernet Franc has been present for several decades, but for a long time it was seen as a supporting variety used for blends. Today, I see more single-varietal or Cabernet Franc-dominant wines,” he notes. “At Argentiera, we’ve been working with it in a more conscious and focused way for about 15 years, and we now understand its potential. We use it in all our red wines. In blends it brings freshness and verticality. But I believe it shines best in specific parcels, like Ventaglio, where the limestone allows it to express a very precise and distinctive identity.”
At Tenuta Sette Ponti’s Orma winery in Bolgheri, Cabernet Franc has also been present since the early 2000s, allowing for its adaptation to the territory. It has become an increasingly important part of their red wine production, not only for its varietal character, but also in response to new qualitative and market demands.
“There is a solid market for Cabernet Franc, supported by growing interest from both wine enthusiasts and professionals,” says Moretti Cuseri. “We use Cabernet Franc in three wines: Orma IGT Toscana and Passi di Orma Bolgheri Superiore, both blends, and Aola di Orma Bolgheri Superiore, vinified as a single-varietal where it can fully express its identity. Its versatility and elegant profile make it particularly well-suited to important international markets.”
This international interest isn’t limited to Tuscany, but also applicable in the Northeast. Le Monde’s Ruzzene notes, “Domestic consumption is certainly important, but a large share of the market for single-varietal Cabernet Franc from our region is represented by the United States, Canada, Japan, China, and Brazil.” He credits this to the wine’s “austere character without ever being harsh – always well-balanced, with firm yet pleasant tannins and its versatility with food is also particularly appealing.”
Franc’s Future Affairs
Indeed, as Sabellico notes, Cabernet Franc is common in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto, and Trentino-Alto Adige in the Northeast, but he’s seeing it in the south, in small but growing quantities in Sicily and even Puglia.
“When Cabernet Franc is the product of quality viticulture, it manages to be a complex and harmonious wine, never characterized by excessively vegetal nuances,” he says. “In Italy it has a refined yet Mediterranean character with an excellent image.”
The future of Cabernet Franc across Italy looks bright, thanks particularly to its potential in the vineyard under global warming, as well as for its growing recognition worldwide among wine professionals and enthusiasts, who increasingly revere its ability to distinctively convey Italian terroir. Ruzzene and Ponchia agree that while white wine remains the star of the Northeast, Cabernet Franc will retain a meaningful place in the market.
“It certainly won’t be the most widely sought-after wine at a time when white wines dominate consumption. However, for us, it is a unique wine that will always have its admirers and is not easy to replace,” says Ruzzene.
Rather, it may be Cabernet Franc that does the replacing suggests Ponchia. “It will likely become increasingly popular in Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and even Tuscany, as an alternative to Merlot, given the climate conditions we’ve been experiencing for years now.”
Carrara agrees that Cabernet Franc is responding well to the changing climatic conditions, offering a profile that is fresher and more elegant than the other Bordeaux varieties. He cautions, however, “We have to be careful. I do not believe Cabernet Franc is an alternative to Merlot, but I do strongly believe that, in the right terroirs, it can express itself with a unique lightness and elegance that few other varieties can achieve.”
Moretti Cuseri of Tenuta Sette Ponti adds, “The future of Cabernet Franc appears very promising, thanks to its ability to authentically interpret different terroirs. In the way it expresses itself, it may even come to be perceived as a more ‘indigenous’ variety, enhancing local identity and strengthening the bond between grape variety and terroir.”
Italy has clearly left its mark on my beloved Cabernet Franc. From the northeastern valleys and hills where it quietly thrived, to the sun-soaked Tuscan coasts where it shines in Super Tuscans and single-varietal bottlings, this grape has proven its adaptability, elegance, and charm. Its Italian expressions are simultaneously fresh, nuanced, and unmistakably Mediterranean, a reminder that a great love, like a great wine, is shaped by where it grows.
While the future of Cabernet Franc in Italy is still being written, one thing is certain: it will continue to captivate those who fall for it, the way I already have, for its complexity, its versatility, and yes, its undeniable Italian flair.
In the Spotlight
Wine Region(s) of the Week
Colli Berici DOC is located in the southernmost area of Vicenza in Northeast Italy and situated east of the Soave region. The region’s landscape is made up of forests, vineyards, and cultivated fields across a series of hills reaching up to 1,600-feet in an otherwise mostly flat area that cover roughly 64 square miles. The soils here are complex with remnants of both an ancient seabed and volcanic activity, featuring marine fossils, limestone rock, red clay soils, and basaltic soils of volcanic origin. The hills help to keep fog and late frosts at bay, while the influence of the Adriatic make it measurably drier and warmer. It’s this combination of low annual precipitation, warmth, and the free-draining nature of the soils which promote full phenolic ripeness and mineral complexity in the grapes. And as for those grapes, they are split evenly between red and white, with both styles as well as sparkling wines from the traditional method approved for production. That said, Colli Berici fashions itself as the “lands of great red wines,” laying claim to Cabernet Franc Colli Berici as the first to receive the DOC designation in Italy in 1973. Other red varieties include the native Tai Rosso (aka Grenache), Pinot Nero, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Carménère. The white wines of Colli Berici DOC include: Chardonnay, Garganega, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon, Tai, and Professor Luigi Manzoni’s Riesling–Pinot Bianco hybrid, Manzoni Bianco.
And since we’re on the topic of Cabernet Franc this week, let’s also take a look at the Bolgheri DOC.
Bolgheri is a relatively young, prestigious, and somewhat bifurcated DOC when it comes to red wines. Overall it’s an Italian appellation located in the Maremma on the Tuscan coast just to the south of Livorno, Italy. It was first established as a DOC in 1983, however, only for the production of white and rosé wines. At the time, Sassicaia and other Super Tuscans were produced as Vino da Tavola or Toscana IGT. It wasn’t until 1994, red wines with grapes cultivated in the area (including the international varieties) were allowed to be produced as blends under either the Bolgheri Rosso or Bolgheri Superiore DOC labels, with single-varietal expressions of the international varieties (including Cabernet Franc) permitted in 2011.
Bolgheri’s landscape is a natural amphitheater, with the Colline Metalifere hills to the east protecting vineyards from cold winds, and the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west providing moderating breezes. Thick forests cover the surrounding hillsides, maintaining and protecting the diverse ecosystem. The sea breezes help to keep the area cool year-round while aerating the vineyards and reducing humidity and disease pressure. The area’s elevations range from sea level to 1,250 feet, and the vineyards see a great deal of sun with around 23 inches of rain annually. Bolgheri’s terroir has both marine and alluvial origins with soils of sandy clay loam, very fine gravel, and marine fossils. Today, Bolgheri Rosso, Rosso Superiore or Rosé may be made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, or a blend combining one or more of these, and/or up to 50% of Syrah or Sangiovese. Other red grapes, including Petit Verdot, may be added up to 30%.
Fun fact: In 2013, Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC became an official appellation. The decision was made to separate Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC from Bolgheri DOC in the interest of protecting and defending the Sassicaia’s wine production. It’s expected this region will eventually earn DOCG status.
Wineries of the Week
Tenuta Argentiera sits at the southern tip of the Castagneto Carducci area of the Bolgheri DOC. Its vineyards lie within close proximity to the sea on some of the highest elevations of the region. The estate extends more than 375 acres with 210 planted to vine across four distinct plots, each set amidst a diverse ecosystem of Mediterranean scrub, trees, and plants. The soils at Argentiera vary by vineyard parcel but include red sands, Flysch rock (a sedimentary rock of alternating limestone, marl, sandstone, and shale), calcareous and clay-limestone. Of note, the Ventaglio vineyard is planted to 3.75 acres of Cabernet Franc fanned in a circular formation surrounding a majestic holm oak tree. Argentiera’s vineyards are tended daily to best understand the impact of the season. The wines are reflective of the team’s logic, talent, and instinct as well as of the land in each specific snapshot of time.
Le Monde Wine, which takes its name from the Germanic word “mundio” and refers to a land protection granted by the Austrian Emperor to various lands long ago, is found in the Friuli Grave appellation within Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The winery was founded in 1970 by the Pistioni family, and later acquired by the Maccan family in 2008. Le Monde’s 321 acres of vines are sheltered by the Alpine foothills in stony, pebble soils with calcareous-dolomitic alluvial debris referred to as Magredi. The foothills protect the valley from the icy winds from the north, while the nearby Adriatic Sea provides a maritime influence. Le Monde grows not only international varieties (including Cabernet Franc), but also native varieties such as Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, each of which is expressed with personality and balance.
Earlier this year, I introduced you to Tenuta Sette Ponti and the Moretti Cuseri family. This issue, we are diving into Orma Bolgheri (because Cabernet Franc of course!). Orma is located in the heart of the Bolgheri DOC appellation, with Ornellaia to the right and Sassicaia to the left. The three-generation Moretti Cuseri family acquired this Bolgheri estate in 2004, to continue making wines representative of their passion for Bordeaux blends, which began at the historic family estate, Tenuta Sette Ponti in Castiglion Fibocchi. At Orma, the Moretti Cuseri family grows 18.5 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, a small portion of which is bush-trained in soils of stone and clay between 260 and 400-feet elevation. From these carefully tended vines, the family makes five wines, including a single-varietal Cabernet Franc.
In the Spirit
I’m going to preface this week’s wine recommendations with a recognition that single-varietal Cabernet Franc from Italy, and particularly from Bolgheri, are not inexpensive. Winemaking typically makes use of oak (a significant expense), and the wines are generally produced in limited quantities. Additionally, in the case of Bolgheri, the wines are often both highly-rated and ageable making them coveted by collectors. As a result, it’s the classic case of lower supplies combined with higher demand that drives up the cost. So, if you’re new to the Italian experience of Cabernet Franc, its Northeastern expressions will be on the wallet. I find them generally flirtatiously satiable, albeit they can have a bit more of the green pepper note (which I do enjoy). The variety is more highly regarded as a “fine wine” in Tuscany, and indeed a few sit on my list of all-time favorites, making them worth the experience to me. I usually source these when I’m in Italy (it avoids the $ mark-ups), but sometimes I just can’t wait to taste it again and I will splurge. I was able to source most of these wines on Wine.com this week, where you can get $20/off orders of $150 or more this month with the code “HEART20” or use the code “BRANDNEW” for $30/off orders of $200 or more.
Italy looks good on my beloved Cab Franc, particularly from these vines at 1300 feet above sea level in Tuscany, surrounded by the lush woods of Monteverdi Marittimo between Bolgheri and Castagneto Carducci overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Freshness and firmness are completely interwoven from start to finish with red fruits, herbs, tobacco, and a mouthwatering hint of grilled poblano peppers. It’s hoard-worthy in the glass. In other words, you’ll be making sure you don’t get shorted on the pours. And if no one is looking, you might splash yourself an extra ounce or two. Don Giovanni. $133
This one will set you back, in more ways than one. But omg, it’s worth it. A 100% Cabernet Franc from Italy’s Bolgheri region, this wine is ethereal and frankly could make me give up all other CF! It’s everything I love about the variety, but with a distinctly rustic Italian bravado. It’s scintillating with a killer mid-palate explosiveness. It’s herbaceous, spicy, and floral with bold, fresh dark fruits, peppers, olives, sage, graphite….I could go on, but I won’t because ultimately this wine leaves me speechless and without inhibition. Ziggy Stardust. $170
This dark-berried pour with its floral and earthy aromas is satisfyingly akin to a Loire-style Cab Franc. It’s silky, vibrant, and denotes sweet tannins with a decent finish. It’s surprisingly deep for the price point with dark fruits, coffee bean, herbs, and minerals on the palate and a touch of well-integrated bell pepper. This makes for an easy week night pour with an effortless post-work meal. It’s not one you’re going to overthink, but it is one you’ll enjoy more than you expected. At this price point, there’s no excuse not to get to know this Friulian Cab Franc. But be forewarned, it’s like a gateway - you’re just going to want more. Self-possessed. $17
“Il Fauno” takes its name from the Roman god of nature overlooking these lush Tuscan vineyards, which in 2018 saw to it that the Cabernet Franc got to do its thing in the dog days that characterized the end of the growing season. A warm vintage meant that the Cab Franc hand-selected for this wine showcased intensity, dark fruits, herbs, and spice. It’s opulent without being ostentatious, has whisps of bell pepper, and a spritely buoyancy. Mythological. $100
This vintage is a Bordeaux-blend leading with Merlot and Cabernet Franc, but it’s the Cab Sauv that takes center stage with dark fruits, spice, and dried herbs. This wine will benefit with some age or a decant, to soften the dusty, firm tannins. Pair it with a hearty meal and good conversation. Superb Tuscan. $38
This wine has a reputation. It’s scored 100-points at least four times (1985, 2016, 2021, and 2023 by various publications) and the 2015 was named Wine Spectator’s “Wine of the Year” in 2018. So, yes, I clamored amongst the thirsty throngs of tasters at the Gambero Rosso event in Rome to claim my splash of the ‘21 vintage. Seriously, one bottle is opened on the hour and dozens (if not a hundred) glasses are raised and pushed as far forward as possible to secure an ounce. Yes, I got one. (I’ve made my way to the stage of more than one concert pit. I can be scrappy when determined.) And as soon as that wine hit my glass, I scurried away to taste it in private. Was it the best wine I’ve ever tasted, not by a long-shot, but my god, it was outstanding and a moment I’ll remember. Intense, lively, well-structured but balanced, and exceedingly complex with florals, herbs, minerals, red fruits, and spice. It’s absolutely one to age, and I can imagine, might become one that would be among the best I ever tasted. Notorious C-A-B. $310
And below are a few additional Italian Cabernet Francs on my radar, but that I’ve yet to taste. If you do, let me know!
A confluence of two separate harvests, with the first pick in mid-September and the next later in the month, resulted in a wine of two distinctive souls elegantly woven into an expressive and exquisitely balanced wine with the potential for some serious longevity. That said, if you’re like me and want what you want, a simple decant will release the full and complex range of aromas and flavors in time for dinner. Leading with dark red and black fruit flavors, followed by leather, spice, and a notable salinity that heightens the myriad of sensations this wine elicits, Argentiera is worth the splurge - and probably the wait too, if you can. Soulmate. $90
P.S. And don’t miss their 2022 Scenario, a 100% Vermentino that will astound. I used my Coravin to sample this wine, and ended up pulling the cork minutes later for more. This wine needed to be in my mouth. And it was over the course of two very satisfying nights.
In Their Words
While it’s always fun to dig into the vineyards and technical aspects of a wine, or in this case Cabernet Franc in Italy, I also love to know what foods to pair with them. This week, I figured who better to ask than those behind the wines themselves!
Cabernet Franc is exceedingly food friendly, what regional dishes do you find pair best with it?
Giovani Ponchia, director of the Consorzio Vini Colli Berici and Vicenza
“I love the elegance of Cabernet Franc, especially Riserva versions, and for the food pairing, Bigoli pasta with duck ragù, risotto with black truffles from the Berici Hills, and mature Asiago cheese.”
Giovanni Ruzzene, winemaker at Le Monde in Friuli
“Cabernet Franc’s versatility with food is particularly appealing. It pairs beautifully with first courses featuring meat-based sauces, as well as grilled meats, oven-roasted meats, and aged cheeses.”
Alberto Moretti Cuseri, of Tenuta Sette Ponti/Orma Bolgheri
“It pairs with richly structured dishes such as wild boar stew, braised meats, and noble game, which enhance its aromatic depth and tannic structure. It is also excellent with braised red meats and substantial pasta dishes, capable of supporting its elegance and intensity.”
Nicoló Carrara, winemaker at Tuscany’s Tenuta Argentiera
“Cabernet Franc has a unique floral component, with a level of finesse and elegance that is very rare. It can be intense without ever being heavy. It speaks quietly, but very deeply, and from my experience with typical Tuscan meat dishes, it works perfectly. Its freshness and balance make it an extremely gastronomic wine.”
In the Hopper
I’ll be diving back into Rioja with a side of Hungary and a dash of local biz before hitting the road next month to a new-to-me destination. It’s not specifically for wine, but you know I’ll find some. Thank you for reading, supporting, sharing, and recommending my words. It is always appreciated.
Lovely piece and great recommendations! It’s been exciting to see the growth and enthusiasm around Cabernet Franc in Italy. And I think we’re just seeing the tip of the iceberg. It’s a great time to be a Cabernet Franc lover!
Lovely piece and great recommendations! It’s been exciting to see the growth and enthusiasm around Cabernet Franc in Italy. And I think we’re just seeing the tip of the iceberg. It’s a great time to be a Cabernet Franc lover!