A Murder of Crows

Wine Travel Beyond the Socials

In My Glass

2020 Veronique Gunther-Chereau “Clos des Chapelles” Melon de Bourgogne

Add Melon de Bourgogne to the varieties of wine I need to drink more often. It’s bright, mineral-driven, pairs incredibly with seafood (halibut crudo anyone?!), and it’s often a phenomenal value. Popping. $15

2015 Col Solare “Shining Hill”

I don’t choose Cab Sauv-driven blends often. It’s not that I don’t enjoy them, it’s just that I tend to want them more aged versus just-released, and I lack patience. In other words, I prefer this style more savory vs. overly fruity. I enjoy the umami flavors that develop over time. Uncharacteristically, I exercised some patience here, and this Red Mountain beauty at nine years of age, well, it hit. Fruit, umami, softened, dusty tannins, and an acidity that interlaced it all. Summited. $60

2020 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Chante-Alouette

100-percent Marsanne, this memorable, weighty pour has bright acidity, a sensual mouthfeel, is a mid-palate mind-f$!% with a happy-ending kinda finish. Too profane? Perhaps, but true. This wine is a moment. In fact, I was so enraptured, I only recorded one word at the tasting: Amazeballs. $75

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In the Moment

Last week, I was in the state to my north. This week, you’ll find me in the state to my south, California, and specifically in Livermore Valley AVA. If you’re a regular follower of my social media, you might remember I took an eye-opening wine trip to Livermore last November. I’ve touched on that trip a few times, but I have honestly barely scraped the surface of all that I discovered.

Now, if you’ve never heard of Livermore (or are confusing it with Liverpool), you are not alone. Even within the wine industry its little known. Most people I talk to have no idea where Livermore is or that it’s even a wine region. And while I did know it was a wine region, and in California, I had no idea what type of wines to expect. My guess was that I’d come across big, bold, higher alcohol Cabs and Zins, and a warm to hot climate. I’ll be brutally honest, I wasn’t entirely optimistic - those wines just tend not to be my style.

Well, boy was I wrong. Really wrong. Not only does Livermore have some seriously high-quality, well-balanced, and expressive wines (and very little Zin), it also has deep history, a fascinating climate, and a number of generational growers and makers. So, yes, there’s a lot more Livermore I’ll be sharing in the weeks and months to come, both here and on the socials. But, for today, one of the most surprising discoveries I made last November: Cabernet Franc.

Now you might think, oh here she goes…her “boyfriend.” Of course she liked Livermore. Well, yes, you’re partly right because Cab Franc does well here. But it’s more than that. Historically, I’ve been known to say that I love all expressions of Cabernet Franc - except for California’s. Many of the California expressions I’ve explored are made in more of a Cab Sauvignon-style with fuller body, rich, warm fruits, higher alcohol, lower acidity, and heavy oak influence. It’s not that they’re not good, they’re just not my taste. But this is where Livermore surprised me. I found many Cab Franc expressions here to maintain varietal character, express a depth of complex aromas and flavors, and most notably, retain the higher acidity that I love about this grape so much. In other words, I was wrong about both Livermore and generalizing California Cab Franc. So, pass the utensils, I’ll happily eat all the crow - with a glass of Livermore Cab Franc please.

The must-try Livermore Cab Francs: All of the CF at Steven Kent Winery, but especially the L’Autre Côte labels including the blanc (a white Cab Franc), the 2023 rosé, Darcie Kent’s the “Strong Silent Type” Cabernet Franc, and the Cuda Ridge Cabernet Franc.

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In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

The Livermore Valley AVA is an oval bowl approximately 25 miles long and 18 miles wide, encompassing around 4000 acres of vineyards and some 40 wineries. Are they distinctly “new world?” Yes. As they should be. But they are also elegant, balanced, and have a level of finesse characteristic of world class wine. Why? The soils, climate, and the talented growers and makers, many of whom have been here for generations.

Located just 35 miles east of San Francisco Bay, the Livermore AVA is uniquely oriented east-to-west (most wine regions in California run north-to-south) allowing for the oceanic winds to sweep through the valley. The valley floor here starts at 340 feet on the west side of the valley with elevations rising to 1000 feet on the eastern side. If you’re challenged at envisioning measurements like me, we’re talking mountain foothill height.

As for the climate, this region has a significant day to night temperature swing - sometimes by as much as 40 degrees owing to the proximity to the Bay and the cool air coming in from the Pacific. In fact, the temperature difference here is so significant, the locals refer to the afternoon/evening cool down as their “natural air conditioning.” And as you might recall from our other regional features, those warm days/cool nights (that diurnal thing us wine geeks love to talk about) lend to balanced levels of sugar, color, aromas, and flavors in the grape while also retaining the grape’s natural acids*.

And lastly, the soils. They’re well-drained with areas of loam and sand, and most notably, and importantly, gravel. Gravel is key as it is known for reducing the vigor of the grape vines, thereby allowing the vines to focus their energy on the grapes, leading to greater concentration. Some even believe (me among them) that gravel lends a distinct minerality to wine as well. As for those wines: elegant, balanced, and a notable level of finesse.

*The diurnal temperature swing is important because sugar and acid have an inverse relationship in grape development. As warmth and sun increase the sugar levels of the grape, it simultaneously lowers the acid. But with cool nights, the grapes slow that development and retain more acidity than they otherwise would.

Must visits in Livermore:

Concannon Vineyard (Assemblage Blanc & 2019 Mother Vine Cab Sauv), Fenestra (2017 Cab Sauv), and Wente (Bubbles!) - for their histories, OG vines, wines, and the beautiful gardens.

For the wines & views:

McGrail Winery (Peyton Paige Sauv Blanc), Murrieta’s Well (Cab Franc), and Darcie Kent (Clone 30)

For the atmosphere and live music (and wine!):

Almost Famous (Cab Franc), Retzlaff Vineyards (old vine Sauv Blanc), Wood Family Vineyards (Cab Sauv)

For the wines:

Paige Mill Winery (GPS & Sparkling wine), Steven Kent Winery (Cab Francs), Cuda Ridge (Carménère & Malbec), Cellar 13 (2019 Cab Sauv), Nottingham Cellars (Cab Sauv), JMC Cellars Petite Sirah, and Pruet Farms (Bourgogne-style Chardonnay)

For the food & wines:

Las Positas Vineyards (the Mourvedré & Graciano are killer)

In town tasting bars:

1st Street Wine Company and Swirl on the Square

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In My Opinion

Livermore is a region with wines and culture worth discovering. The 40 wineries, many within walking, or bike riding distance of one another, are welcoming, approachable, and all offer an atmosphere where you’ll feel comfortable. I don’t know about you, but in some of the more well-known, big name wine regions, I can feel overwhelmed by the choices. Here, I just feel relaxed and welcome, and under zero pressure to “do it right.” It feels like I can simply enjoy the discoveries in my own way.

While reservations are appreciated at most wineries, many also take walk-ins if space allows, making it easier to be spontaneous, follow in-the-moment recommendations, and move at your own pace. You’ll find food and wine pairing experiences, live music, traditional tastings, and many wineries with beautiful grounds to enjoy a bottle with friends or a glass with a book. And best of all - it’s affordable! Most wineries have tasting fees, but they’re reasonable and often waived with bottle purchases. And those bottles - also more than reasonably priced.

I’ve found Livermore to be approachable all around. It represents everything I want wine tasting to be - and it reminded me of why I first fell for wine travel as a pastime. So, in my opinion, if you’re heading out to San Francisco, any of the nearby National Parks, or if you live in the Bay area (even the PNW), take a day, or few days, relaxing in this easy-going wine country.

Restaurant Reco - While you’re exploring Livermore, book a resy at Range Life. It is not to be missed. The wine list is a fun local and global exploration and the menu is fresh, inspired, and honestly, made me feel like I was in Paris. In fact it was the best steak tartare I’ve had outside of the City of Lights.

In Depth

Cabernet Franc (aka “my boyfriend)

While Cab Franc has long been used in Bordeaux blends, you’re starting to see it featured more and more as a single-varietal bottling, and beyond just the small production, high-demand label for wine club members. In the past several years, Cabernet Franc has been quietly moving past its cult-status in wine circles and gaining awareness and attention among a growing number of wine consumers.

The secret is getting out and for good reason. It's eminently drinkable. Cabernet Franc is known for its freshness, bright acidic lift, and its food pairing abilities. It can range from crunchy red, brambly fruits with the occasional green pepper or earthy notes, to more lush, dark-fruited versions with warming spices. It's even being made in the juicy carbonic-maceration style (like a Beaujolais Nouveau), appassimento-style (like Amarone), and on occasion without seeing any oak at all. But it's not just the climate or winemaking styles that can lead to myriad expressions of this red wine, there’s also terroir. The earthy notes of the Loire, the minerality found in parts of Argentina, the raspberry note of Livermore, or the dried herbs and black pepper found in Napa Valley expressions, are all by-products of place. 

Cabernet Franc is also practical in the vineyard. It doesn’t require the extended growing season of Cabernet Sauvignon, making it somewhat more reliable in cooler vintages, as well as more available for earlier harvests in seasons where rains or fires could pose a threat later in the season.

And just as we’re beginning to see more consumer awareness of this lovely grape, there’s also an increasing number of winemakers worldwide - in Tuscany, Hungary, Languedoc, South Africa, Argentina, and yes, here in the states - moving it from red blends to exemplary single-varietal expressions. The future is bright for Cabernet Franc around the world, and it's time to explore.

In the Hopper

And that Cabernet Franc is exactly why I’ve returned to Livermore. This weekend is the 2nd annual CabFrancAPalooza, a three-day festival celebrating my favorite grape. I’ll be sharing all about this celebratory extravaganza and my discoveries in next week’s issue - including a surprise find from Texas! Until then, I’m off to explore a few more restaurants, wineries, and shops in my down time here in Livermore. It’s all for the love of wine travel and the exploration of places both well-known and lesser known. This is why I’m in this business. There’s lots to explore, a never-ending rabbit hole of things to learn and people to meet, and there’s no better way than to just dive in.