In My Glass

2022 Miguel Torres La Causa

País, aka Listán Prieto in Spain, was all but abandoned in Chile in the 20th century. Fortunately, some vines were quietly preserved, which is the source for this rustic quaffer. From vines over 100 years old, this is an intensely aromatic wine with notes of wild flowers, red berries, and savory herbs. It’s light bodied with rippin’ acidity, 12.5% abv, dusty and supportive tannins, and a surprisingly long finish. It’s more provincial than refined, chillable, and incredibly food friendly. You won’t want to abandon this glass. Charmingly homey. $25

2022 G.D. Vajra Albe Barolo

Barolo. Under $35. I don’t feel like there’s a need to say more. But, I will. If you love this variety and region, do not sit idly by. And don’t worry about the youthful vintage. This wine is approachable, refined, characteristic of its name, and will keep you from opening your more expensive Barolo in the cellar. G.D. Vajra is a long-standing, family producer with a philosophy built around finesse over power. These are wines of place. And their Albe is the place to start. Say less. $32

2025 Masseria Li Veli Askos Susumaniello Rosato Salento

I want this rosato swishing around my mouth all sunny season long. It’s electric. Satiating. Loud. Delicious. And it’s absolutely anything but boring. It’s practically the embodiment of Puglia. Made from the Susumaniello grape, of which only 125 acres are planted in all of Italy, this is one of Masseria Li Veli’s three unforgettable rosés. It’s made for wherever the day takes you - the park, the pool, the patio, a backyard BBQ, or a cozy chair overlooking the sunset. It doesn’t need an occasion, it makes one. Diversion. $30

2022 Delrieu-Ducleux La Joue Chenin Vin de France

Fresh, textured, and savory. This matchstick-y, flinty, jolt of electricity shocked my system in the best of ways. It leads with fruit flavor, enlivens with saline minerality, and finishes with a crave-worthy sensation of savory umami. It’s mouth-coating, long-lasting, and will transport you right to a natty wine bar in the Loire. At least it did me, and I have zero complaints. Sapid. $32

In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

Arguably one of Japan’s oldest vine growing regions, the Yamanashi prefecture is certainly its largest with more than 30% of Japan’s wine grapes cultivated here. The region is situated southwest of Tokyo on the other side of Mt. Fuji. In fact, half of Mt. Fuji sits within the Yamanashi prefecture. The region has a basin climate, owing to the protection of the surrounding mountains. It is one of the warmest regions in Japan with the greatest amount of sunshine hours, and it has four distinct seasons. The majority of its annual rainfall, between 31 and 39 inches, falls during the growing season, making for more humid conditions. The majority of the region’s vineyards are planted around two rivers, the Kamanashi and Fuefuki, where the well-draining soils of sedimentary rock, gravel, granite, and andesite are advantageous to the vines. Elevations within the Yamanashi prefecture range from 820 to 3,200 feet with the average for most vineyards around 1,475 feet. It is believed vines were first cultivated in Yamanashi 1,000 years ago with winemaking taking hold around 130 years ago. The first official winemaking license was granted to Marufuji in 1890. Today, they are considered the oldest, continually operating family winery. Grapes grown in Yamanashi are predominately Koshu, Muscat Bailey A, Delaware, Merlot, and Chardonnay. In recent years, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot have also been showing well. Yamanashi is home to around 90 official wineries accounting for more than 110 brands.

Winery of the Week

Grace Wine is a fifth generation Japanese winery, originally founded as a cooperative in 1923. It was incorporated by third-generation Kazuo Misawa, in 1953 and renamed Grace Wine after the Greek goddesses the Kharites (aka the Graces), in 1957. The winery was one of the first to bottle their Koshu wine in 720ml bottles versus the standard 1.8L “farmer’s bottles.” They were also among the first to bring Japanese wine to international markets and have received multiple awards at the Decanter World Wine Awards. The winery is now led by fifth-generation Ayana Misawa who studied at the University of Bordeaux and trained in Bourgogne, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, and Argentina. Just as the previous generations did, Ayana focuses on the Koshu grape variety with an emphasis on single-vineyard expressions.

The family has 50 acres of vineyards within the Yamanashi prefecture, all farmed organically and regeneratively without the use of herbicides or chemical fertilizers. In the region of Katsunuma, the family has vineyards in the Toriibira and Hishiyama districts. Katsunuma is surrounded by high mountains and has a continental climate with plentiful sunshine and well-draining soils. The Toriibira district is a very small area on the south-western slopes of Mount Kashio at an altitude of around 1,475 feet with soils of gravel and clay. The Hishiyama district is the highest viticultural area in Katsunuma, situated between 1,640 and 1,960 feet with a complex topography of rivers, large granite rocks, and gravelly clay soils. Grace Wine also has vineyards in the Akeno region, which is protected from rain by the surrounding mountains and has the greatest amount of sunshine hours in Japan. Their Misawa Vineyard sits at 2,300 feet in soils of clay, volcanic ash, and chalk. The Koshu vineyards of the Foothills of Mt. Kayagatake, also within Akeno, are planted between 1,300 and 2,300 feet in volcanic, gravelly soils.

Varieties planted include: Koshu, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. Grace Wine produces around 20,000 cases of wine per year from four vineyard sites.

Although we did not have the opportunity to visit any of the Japanese wine regions on our recent holiday, I did bring home the 2024 Toriibira Vineyard Koshu from Grace Wine. After tasting and loving several Koshu wines throughout our travels, I was excited to bring one home to experience without the proverbial vacation blinders on and with foods I’m more accustomed to pairing wines with. The grapes for the Toriibira Vineyard Koshu were harvested in the second week of November from the best lots, carefully sorted, and fermented in neutral French oak. The wine matured in stainless prior to release. The aromas are rich and brimming with orchard fruit and spice, while the palate is clean, dry and laced with minerality. The Toriibira demonstrates power and elegance with a combination of intensity and rounded acidity. If I had to compare it, I’d say it’s most akin to Pinot Gris or Pinot Blanc. It lingers on the palate extensively and it was perhaps one of the best examples of Koshu we tasted - even outside of its cultural context. This Grace Wine confirmed my overall positive impression of Koshu and further lends to my belief that these wines deserve a spot on the global stage.

Restaurant of the Week

Julia is an intimate omakase owned and operated by a husband and wife team: she is the chef, he is the sommelier. This gem came recommended by a good friend that knew our first trip to Japan wasn’t for wine, but knows my predilection for fermented grape juice. It’s against my nature to travel to a place and not learn about their wine. I was assured, this was the place to be. Tokyo. High-end dining. Phenomenal food. A chic vibe. And Japanese wines. He was not wrong, and I couldn’t have been happier. Was it slightly above my “normal” place of being (both in terms of price point and “class”)? Yes. Especially with my family in tow. But we’ve often pushed our kids into experiences beyond what’s “normal,” and not only did they rise to the occasion with their curiosity and awe, but the team had a way of making the exceptional feel deserved. And when you have two big moments to celebrate - sometimes the splurge is necessary. That said, for 10-courses (with pairings), the price point was not out of bounds. Upon arrival, we were treated to an aperitif and appetizers in the first-floor hi-fi lounge before moving upstairs to the main dining room overlooking the open kitchen. The attention to detail, hospitality, quality, and inventiveness of the dishes, as combined with the thoughtfulness of the pairings, and the overall atmosphere went above and beyond what I could have imagined or hoped for. The hospitality was unpretentious, welcoming, but also exquisite and deftly executed.

The menu featured light, flavorful, and inventive Japanese dishes - we’re talking fresh cut fish with fruit, and local vegetables seamlessly interwoven with texture, flavor, and subtle nuance. Everything was thoughtfully and masterfully paired alongside Japanese wines or homemade juices - each equally complementary. My wine highlights were easily the Koshu — the sparkling orange Koshu and the more traditional expression — the Delaware orange, and the dessert wine from Merlot. The fact that I enjoyed two orange (skin-contact white) wines is telling of their quality. Unexpected and enjoyable.

Is Julia a traditional Japanese meal you need to experience? No. But is it uniquely cultural, wine-centric, and something unlike you’d experience in a westernized setting, absolutely. It’s worth every minute, every dollar, every bite, and every sip. The team at Julia brings a western-level of comfort to a distinctively eastern experience.

In Depth

Koshu is the best known and most revered indigenous grape variety of Japan. Growing in Japan for more than 1,000 years, you’ll find 90% of Koshu’s plantings within the Katsunuma area of the Yamanashi prefecture. It is likely a descendant of the vines carried along the Silk Road and has been found to carry DNA from Vitis vinifera as well as a wild Chinese grape species. It was the first Japanese grape to be recognized by the International Organization of Vine & Wine (OIV) and accounts for roughly 18.5% of the total wine grapes grown in Japan.

Koshu is distinctive for its pink skins, which are thick and bitter. It has high natural acidity and generally lower levels of sugar, which often result in wines with lower alcohol by volume. Koshu’s thick skins and loose bunches help protect the variety from humidity-born diseases. Koshu grapes are traditionally grown via the pergola trellising method, known locally as “tanashiki;” although some growers are experimenting with vertical shoot positioning (VSP) trellising systems. (Grace Wine was one of the first to successfully grow Koshu using VSP at their Misawa Vineyard.) In general, Koshu wines are a pale straw color with clean, delicate, fruity aromatics with overtones of orchard fruits, citrus, peach, and jasmine. Koshu is typically fresh, light to medium-bodied depending on the winemaking, and a good match for Japanese cuisine. You will find Koshu expressed in a variety of styles including sweet to dry, still and sparkling, and aged under flor*. Skin contact Koshu is gaining notice and popularity for its more subtle and less astringent qualities than many V. vinifera skin contact white wines. Koshu is mostly planted in Japan, but it is also being cultivated in California, Oregon, Germany, and Nepal.

*Flor is a film-forming yeast that develops on the surface of certain wines during aging. It creates a thick veil that protects the wine from over-oxidation while imparting distinct savory, nutty, and briny aromas and flavors.

In Living Color

Tokyo & Kyoto Wine Hot Spots

As I mentioned, my recent trip to Japan was not wine-centric, but wine is my way of life, and so, there was wine. The following are a few of the destinations we discovered: places for wine with wines of place.

First: Ginza Wine Bar G5. Their motto: No Wine, No Life. This is a wine-only destination. No beer, no cocktails. High-end wines by the glass or bottle near Ginza station. It has a “downtown” feel. High-rises. Glitz. The tony neighborhood. The quiet of Japan, but with humming conversations more familiar to a western ear. Ginza has an air of exclusivity, but in a way that says, “You belong here.” It’s open late and the menu equally welcomes those in the know and the curious.

MIDAIR. French cuisine and wine bar. While only a three-minute walk from the aforementioned Ginza Wine Bar, MIDAIR is exclusive. It’s a place you go knowingly and walk in knowing it. Is this a place I would frequent on the regular? Absolutely not. But is it worth a one-night splurge, you bet. This was our night of “go your own way.” After eight days together, everyone needed space, a nap, or stimulation. For me, it was wine with a view. A neighborhood spot that spoke to the culture, destination, and offered an hour’s respite. MIDAIR has all the feel of a private club. Upon walking in they said, “We only have wine.” Perfect. And the list - Burgundy and Bordeaux. No exceptions. No apologies. A glass of white and a glass of red, please. My window seat overlooking rainy downtown Tokyo gave me my city fix and a bird’s eye view. The service was perfectly attentive without being obtrusive, and the fact that I was alone, normal. It’s a business stopover. A place that rewards with quiet, luxury, and privacy. And yes, very good wine.

Now, we move to Kyoto. If I had to make a brash comparison - Tokyo is more New York while Kyoto is more Chicago. Kyoto is bustling but manageable, consuming, and adaptable to the mood. We spent five days exploring the sights, sounds, tastes, smells, and all-around vibe of Kyoto - and came to find three wine bars that more than delivered. First up, Rokka.

A quiet neighborhood bar with an unlikely double focus: Ayurveda and wine. Warm water in medieval goblets. Champagne. French and Spanish wines. Locally sourced cheeses. It shouldn't work as well as it does, but that's Rokka. An oasis of tranquility where the attention to aesthetics and taste prove that calm can pervade even the most bustling city.

I’m a Champagne loyalist and Rencontre in Kyoto is of the same ilk. It’s a Champagne-only bar. And specifically grower Champagne. It’s woman-owned, and carefully curated. These are wines that the owner has vetted. She knows the winemakers, their stories, the land, and what’s in the bottle. This isn’t about name, prestige, or marketing. She knows her shit and she’s sharing it with those willing to take a chance. It’s not inexpensive, but it is exquisite. It’s warm, cozy, intimate, and all about the best of Champagne.

Lastly, Wine Bar Musée is a small wine bar in Kyoto, just a three-minute walk from Shijo-Karasuma station. Located on the third-floor in an unassuming mid-city location that you have to work to find, Musée offers a stellar wine list - focusing mostly on Bourgogne. There are 15 rotating wines by the glass, alongside more than 200 different labels in the walk-in wine cellar. The Burgundian selections are both rare and/or stellar, but you can also find a top-end selection of options from the states, Spain, Australia, Italy, Australia, and more. It’s another intimate, quiet location overlooking a particularly soothing Zen garden. You can’t help but truly be in the moment with your glass. If you end up here, it’s for the wine. Period.

In the Know

Japan consists of four main islands divided into 47 prefectures. The main island - Honshu - is divided into five regions. A mountain chain runs through the center of each of the main islands with Mt. Fuji is the highest peak at 12,388 feet. Approximately 77% of Japan is mountainous with the majority of wine grapes grown in Yamanashi, Nagano, and Hokkaido. Globally, Japan is 42nd for grapevines grown with 43,560+ acres of vines (both table and wine grapes). Koshu is the most planted variety, with Muscat Bailey A being the only other grape currently used for fine wines of global recognition. There are currently more than 350 wineries in Japan, most of which are small-batch and family-owned.

In the Room Where It Happened

This week I attended the Hart Davis Hart Champagne Tasting in Portland. The line-up included both Grandes Marques and Grower Champagnes. A few of my takeaways:

• The Grandes Marques are renowned for good reason - consistency in style and quality. That said, vintage will play a role and not every one of them rises to expectation (ex. the 2013 Dom Perignon did not speak to me).

• Grower Champagne is an exceptional value for the quality.

• Grower Champagnes typically have more vintage variation, but they can also have a “house-style.” For example, some winemakers will ferment in oak, others will not. Some may use partial or full malolactic fermentation to create a more rich style, while others will not. And dosage, while used for balancing acids, can also be partly owing to a winemaker’s preferred style.

• Non-vintage is not to be overlooked, often offering better value, reliability, and immediate fruit-forward enjoyment. They are also often a representation of the house-style meaning there’s typically a high level of detail in crafting the blends to assure quality.

• With some labels, you’re paying for marketing, prestige, and a name. Pricing is not always commensurate with quality. (Ex. NV Armand de Brignac, Blanc de Blancs which sells for $595)

• Champagne is just damn delicious and as good as sparkling wines get — nothing else compares.

And my physical takeaways this year include:

NV A. Lamblot, Brut Nature, Mouvance 21

NV Pierre Peters, Cuvée de Reserve, Blanc de Blancs

NV Bérèche et Fils, Brut Reserve (Base vintage: 2022)

2012 Drappier, Grande Sendrée Brut

Others I would recommend: the 2016 Robert Moncuit Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru, Les Chetillons; the 2015 Billecart-Salmon, Le Rosé; the 2014 Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs; and the Krug, Grand Cuvée, 172nd Edition

In the Moment

Now, with the aforementioned case having just been made for Champagne…this domestic producer has consistently made me stop and take notice in a “holy shit” kind of way. They sit in my number one spot for Method Oregon sparkling wines, but also domestic sparkling wine overall, and they have for the last three years.

Arabilis.

Kenny and Allison McMahon’s venture stands alone in the uppermost echelon of Method Oregon sparkling wines. Yes, this is my opinion, and I’ll stand by it every time. Arabilis wines express a combination of terroir, expertise, passion, and remarkable quality. The detailed precision, the interwoven whispers of nuance, the notable balance struck between tension and delicacy — these wines are memorable. And this weekend, marked the unveiling of their newest releases, including their first sparkling rosé. More on those wines below, but first, I was able to catch up with Kenny for a few minutes to talk about a project they’ll be releasing this fall: the perpetuals.

While I look forward to the release of the perpetuals, I’m going to be enjoying the newest releases I picked up this weekend:

2020 “Sequence” Willamette Valley - Extra Brut - 60 months en tirage - 70/30 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir - Disgorged March 2026

2021 “Sequence” Willamette Valley - Extra Brut - 48 months en tirage - 64/36 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay - Disgorged March 2026

2022 Willamette Valley Rosé - Extra Brut - 36 months en tirage - 51/46/3 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay/Meunier - Disgorged March 2026

And because it has consistently been one of my favorites, I also picked up an extra bottle of the 2020 Columbia Gorge - Extra Brut - 70/30 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay - Disgorged 2025

Curious? You can shop for Arabilis wines here. Note that some of the sparkling wines are allocated for club members only.

In the Hopper

Let’s go to Italy! This week I’ll be returning to Campania and Umbria - each home to red wines that sit in my Top Five: Aglianico and Sagrantino.

This is the first of my trips to span the next eight weeks and will include in-depth studies, vineyard and winery visits, and tastings of the current vintages. I previously visited the Taurasi region of Campania in December 2024, but this visit to attend Campania Stories, will provide a more diverse education into the overall region, its many producers, and the various native varieties and wines including Fiano, Greco di Tufo, Falanghina, and of course, Aglianico.

The latter half of the trip to Umbria marks my return to AMontefalco, which you can read about here. I’m excited to compare last year’s notes with my impressions of the new vintages, as well as both discovering and revisiting favorite producers.

As always, if you have any questions or would like me to dive into something particular from either region, send me a note.

After another year of deep exploration across the Valley’s 11 AVAs, I’ve refreshed every category with new discoveries, a few surprises, and yes, some shake-ups among my longtime favorites. Spoiler: not everything stayed the same. A few wines and experiences I thought were untouchable got some serious competition.

And this edition has grown. I’ve added brand-new sections: Best Luxe Experiences (for when you want to really treat yourself), Best European Experiences (because the old world is alive and well in Oregon), and Best Wine Tasting Events (because some of the best sipping happens in a crowd).

Whether you’re planning your first trip to wine country or you’re a regular making your rounds, consider this your updated cheat sheet. Grab a glass and dig in.

Willamette Valley Guide 2.0

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If you find this guide useful, the best thing you can do is share it with a fellow wine lover! And if you’re not already subscribed to Kristy’s Wine Travels, now’s a great time — there’s plenty more where this came from. Cheers and thank you!

In My Glass

2021 Chateau Simone Palette Blanc

This is perhaps the most unique and beguiling white to grace my palate this year. A rare find - at least stateside - a white Provence wine largely derived from Clairette but blended with Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Bourboulenc, Muscat Blanc, Picpoul, Furmint, and Sémillon, some from vines over 150 years old. The aromas were ethereal - wax, orange blossom, minerals, and stone fruit - and the flavors were an exquisite intermingling of minerality, baked apple, and lemon peel with herbal undertones and a hint of oxidation for a nutty, but lifted finish. But while all of that is very well and good, it was the sumptuous, rounded texture with a counter-balancing electricity that made this wine one I wanted in my mouth again and again. A pegasus. $65

2022 Rico Nuevo

Ah, Madrid. I picked it up right out of the gate, or glass rather - that illustrious, deeply mineral, earthy and grounded aroma that sends chills down my spine, and that only comes from the Sierra de Gredos Garnacha. It’s magical and mysterious. At least to me. I’m utterly spellbound. And while some of this region’s wines can be an acquired taste to the masses - or at least a jarring, initial surprise - Rico Nuevo is an entry-level gateway, leading with crunchy red fruits and a subtle florality. Its juicy, easy flavors will bring you in, but it’s likely going to be that terroir-defining minerality, expressed here as an elusive backdrop, that keeps these mountains calling. John Muir. $23

2021 Marius by M. Chapoutier Vin de Pays d’Oc Rouge

I love when a bottle unexpectedly wows. My experience with M. Chapoutier wines is consistently positive, but this wine delivered quality and a hot-damn deliciousness at quite the value. Now, you’re not going to confuse it for a premium, fine wine, but for what it is - a carefree, easy-drinker - it will not only satisfy, but please. It’s dark-fruited, savory, spicy, and meaty, and delivers a gracefully bold wine that pairs solidly with a white bean and sausage stew while streaming The Pitt. Scrub in. $15 (for vintage 2024)

In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

The Languedoc is France’s largest wine-producing region, with roughly one-third of all French wines produced here. The Languedoc is home to 23 appellations, including Minervois, situated just north of Corbières in the foothills of the Black Mountains within the Massif Central. The appellation is home to 24 villages divided into five climatic zones ranging from cool and Atlantic-influenced to dry and Mediterranean: the Côtes Noires, La Clamoux, La Zone Centrale, Le Causse, and Les Serres. The soils of Minervois are highly diverse, featuring a mosaic of limestone, clay, shale, schist, sandstone, and quartz, often covered in stony, heat-retaining gravels.

The majority of wine production in Minervois (90%) is red, led by Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Lledoner Pelut as well as Carignan, Cinsault, Piquepoul, Terret, and Rivairenc. But since this is the Languedoc with its rebellious and experimental nature, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir will also be found. The appellation also allows for rosé and white wines, and it requires all wines be blended from at least two grape varieties. Minervois is known for its old, low-yielding vines, which produce supple wines with dense character and rich flavors, particularly from the area’s single cru appellation, Minervois La Livinière.

Winery of the Week

Last summer I visited the Languedoc - my favorite French region outside of Champagne - for the third time, and had my first introduction to Château de Fauzan. Located 31 miles from the Mediterranean in the aforementioned Minervois, on a clay-limestone plateau at an altitude of 1,150 feet, Château de Fauzan was founded by the Bourrel family, who moved to the area in 1956.

It wasn't wine that originally brought the family to Fauzan, but Albert Bourrel's passion for trout fishing. Fortunately for us, the family took to wine, and today the vineyard and winery are run by Albert's grandson Jean-Philippe and his family. The estate vineyard overlooks the lower Minervois plains with a backdrop of the Montagne Noir and is planted to Syrah, Carignan, Chardonnay, Cinsault, Grenache, and Pinot Noir. Jean-Philippe crafts high-altitude wines showcasing the minerality of the rugged soils and a freshness derived naturally from the region’s climate - a not-to-miss producer in Minervois. Public visits are welcome.

Recommended wines: While I enjoyed all the wines I tasted, none stayed with me quite like the Cuvée Albert Cru de La Livinière - a tribute to Grandfather Albert and 100% Syrah. It was rich, savory, and mineral-laden, with deep, dark fruit flavors and a lingering finish — and a lasting memory.

In Depth

Aligoté is a white grape with origins in the Bourgogne region of France. It’s commonly referred to as the “other Bourgogne grape,” as it sits in the shadow of white Burg star, Chardonnay. Like Chardonnay, Aligoté traces its lineage to Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc and can grow in a variety of soil types. It is an early-ripening grape and is well-suited to climate change in many regions. It's known for its high acidity and vigorous vines, though with widely varying yields. Wines produced from Aligoté are generally dry, with floral and herbal notes. When fully ripened, the grape can produce whites with verve, depth, and exceptional balance. It is produced both as a single-varietal wine and used in blends to lend acidity and aroma to richer, less-structured wines. It is grown throughout Bourgogne and in parts of the United States, but has a particularly significant presence in Eastern Europe.

In Production

On any given weekend in the Willamette Valley, you can likely find a themed walk-around tasting. I recently poured wines (under the wing of the Spruce Goose) at the McMinnville Food & Wine Classic and am currently planning the upcoming Chehalem Mountains AVA tasting, Magic in the Mountains, for May 30th.

Other upcoming events include a few AVA tastings (Yamhill-Carlton and Eola-Amity Hills), Method Oregon, and one of my particular favorites - highlighting small, independent wineries - the Indie Wine Mixer. Varietal tastings have also come onto the scene, including those dedicated to Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, and Malbec, and of course there’s the anything-BUT-Pinot tasting, the Alt Wine Fest. New to the mix this year is the recently announced Aligoté Affair.

Dedicated entirely to Aligoté, this debut Willamette Valley event marks the first of its kind in the United States focused solely on the “other white grape” of Bourgogne. The event will take place on Saturday, May 2, 2026, at Balsall Creek Vineyards, with 12 producers pouring various expressions and vintages of the variety. The Willamette Valley has long been renowned for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but in recent years, varieties like Aligoté, Grüner, and Sauvignon Blanc have been making an increasingly strong showing in regional tasting rooms, offering a fun, fresh spin on the WV terroir - and honestly, I’m here for it. I think these varieties are thriving, and many of the wines are showing exceptionally well.

Producers at this inaugural tasting include Abbey Road Farm, Andante Vineyard, Balsall Creek Vineyards, Beckham Estate Vineyard, Björnson Vineyard, Concinnitas Farm, Domaine Divio, Flâneur Wines, Limited Addition Wines, Lumos Wine Co., Moffett Vineyard, and Suzor Wines, representing the Yamhill-Carlton, Van Duzer, and Chehalem Mountains American Viticultural Areas. Alongside the wines, guests will enjoy French-inspired bites from Alchemy NW, curated specifically to highlight Aligoté’s affinity for food. And knowing how well this variety pairs with a range of foods, this tasting is sure to satisfy.

In the News

Oregon’s traditional method sparkling wines are getting a new label! As a quick review, traditional (or Champagne) method sparkling wines are those in which the second fermentation that creates the bubbles occurs within the bottle. Here’s a primer on all things sparkling:

Sparkling Guide

19.8MB ∙ PDF file

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Long story short, in the US it can be difficult to differentiate between wines made via the traditional method and those that aren’t. Sometimes a label will denote the production process, but all too often it’s a mystery. Well, Oregon has an answer to that: Method Oregon. Method Oregon is a new nonprofit, labeling standard, and an annual Grand Tasting (held in July). Founded by 45 wineries, Method Oregon unites pioneering producers and emerging brands, all focused on making world-class traditional method sparkling wine. The organization aims to celebrate exceptional wines, sustainable farming practices, and the distinct sense of place that defines Oregon sparkling wine. But what has me most interested and excited is the new labeling standard.

The Method Oregon mark will be available to wineries that meet the organization’s rigorous standards for traditional method production. In order to use the label the following guidelines must be met:

• 100% Oregon production using fruit from the Willamette Valley, Columbia Gorge, or Southern Oregon AVAs

• Traditional method production, including second fermentation in bottle

• A minimum of 24 months of aging en tirage

• Labels must include disgorgement dates and AVA identification to enhance transparency

• And beginning in 2029, additional sustainable farming requirements will require that fruit used for Method Oregon wines be farmed with OMRI-approved organic inputs only, or in LIVE-certified vineyards farmed without synthetic herbicides

This new standard will not only bring more transparency to the industry, but also make it easier for wine lovers to identify traditionally made wines. While I don’t discriminate against bubbles made via the tank or forced carbonation methods, I do like to know what to expect from a bottle - and for my money. The differing methods aren't intended to produce the same quality of bubbles and are generally not suited to the same scenarios and pairings. For example, a good force-carb bottle of bubbly makes a great picnic wine or cocktail addition when you don’t want to spend more than $20. And Prosecco is a fab choice for parties, to pair with appetizers, or when you’re in the mood for something fruity and floral rather than complex and yeasty.

I strongly believe that sparkling wine is Oregon’s next big thing. The climate is right, the grapes are here, and the talent is on the rise. I’ve said it before: keep an eye on this category. I believe Oregon will be the number one region in the US for bubbles within the next 10 years, and Method Oregon is proof that the industry is ready to make a serious, committed move in that direction.

In the Moment

While we’re on the topic of Oregon sparkling wines, I recently had the opportunity to taste through Corollary Wines’ new spring releases. For those unfamiliar, Corollary has sat in my top three for Oregon bubbles for the last two years - honestly the reason I stuck around hosting tastings there a year longer than planned, and why I'll continue to pour them for anyone curious about Oregon sparkling wine.

Created in 2017 by Dan Diephouse and Jeanne Feldkamp, a husband-and-wife duo, Corollary Wines is one of the Valley’s only all-sparkling producers. Their 57-acre property, planted to 13 acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Meunier, and Pinot Blanc, is one of the few vineyards in the state dedicated solely to the production of sparkling wines. The estate vineyard was planted in October 2023, however, meaning those grapes won’t see a glass until 2030 or beyond. In the meantime, Dan and Jeanne source grapes from vineyard partners across the Willamette Valley and craft their wines using the Champagne method. To-date, they have favored barrel fermentation and extended tirage aging for their range of extra-brut and brut cuvées, Blanc de Blancs, and rosés. Now, about those new releases…

In the Spirit

Corollary Wines are leap years ahead of most domestic bubbles I’ve tasted. They have depth, vibrancy, nuance - and are, honestly, gorgeous. Here are my takeaways and recommendations from the Spring 2026 lineup, plus a bonus sparkling Aligoté from Andante, one of the upcoming Aligoté Affair’s featured producers:

2022 Cuvée One - This is the house classic: a tribute to the Willamette Valley representing numerous vineyards in a vintage-varying blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Meunier, and Pinot Blanc. Disgorged after 30 months with a dosage of 3.5g/L, it makes for a pour you can count on vintage after vintage. The 2022 reminds me of a Champagne house’s non-vintage cuvée in that it expresses a creamy, rich, and brioche-laden palate. Honestly, this wine offers consistency in style regardless of vintage. It’s satisfying, food-friendly, and a solid QPR. $50

2022 Cuvée One Rosé - The pink version of the house cuvée is also a vintage-varying blend of grapes from multiple vineyards. The 2021 vintage marked the first to incorporate Meunier, featured alongside Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Prior to 2021, the blend typically included Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc. For the 2022 vintage, Pinot Blanc returns to the blend alongside Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Meunier. It spent 30 months in the bottle and has a dosage of 1.25g/L. The return of Pinot Blanc is notable, bringing more zesty citrus notes back to the game. $60

2021 X-Omni Blanc de Blancs (Eola-Amity Hills AVA) - If you'd asked me my favorite of the lineup any time in the last two years, I'd likely have answered X-Omni - depending on the day. It's typically mineral-rich, intense, and showcases a complex array of aromas and flavors. The 2021 hits the mark again, but with a few notable differences. I found the palate to feel more like the 2019 vintage - rounded, full, and enveloping. And while the 2020 was mineral-forward, the 2021 leans fruitier, butterier, and a touch savory. It underwent partial malolactic fermentation (80%), spent 42 months in the bottle, and received a dosage of 3.25g/L. It encapsulates the vintage and the site - a co-planting of 17 Chardonnay clones - and showcases why Oregon is heading toward becoming America's top sparkling wine region. $85

2021 Namaste Blanc de Blancs (Van Duzer Corridor AVA) - If I didn't answer X-Omni to that question, it was Namaste. This was the first bottle I acquired after getting acquainted with the winery. The Chardonnay comes from the oldest vines of the variety in the windswept Van Duzer Corridor. Made nearly identically to the X-Omni - 75% malo and a dosage of 3.75g/L - these two wines couldn't be more different. Side by side, they are an eye-opening example of terroir's impact on a wine. The Namaste is generally the more fruit-forward of the two Blanc de Blancs, and that holds again with the 2021. It had shades of a lemon-filled sandwich cookie in a racy liquid format. Delish! In my opinion, it’s the most balanced and focused bottling of this vineyard to date. It has a lot to say, and I know I’ll be sitting down for a few more listening sessions while supplies last. $70

2022 Momtazi Carbonic Rosé - Okay, I'll be honest: this one typically wasn't for me. That's not to say it hasn't been a quality wine - it most certainly excels there - and it has legions of fans. It just wasn't for my palate. Until now. The 2022 Momtazi achieves a new height in balance, nuance, and elegance. It's a bold wine bursting with candied red fruits, garden herbs, and citrus peel - and given it has about 24 hours of skin contact, it carries a bit of weight in the mouth too. In years past, I compared this wine to a Negroni - it had a Campari-like bitterness on the finish, which many people loved - and while that comparison still stands (with a bit less bite), the 2022 is a more seamless interweaving of flavors, with a finesse I hadn't found before. I tasted this bottle over a few days and a several meals, with my top pairings being sushi maki rolls and Thai food. I can also see this pairing gorgeously with anything duck. The Momtazi is more of a specific-occasion pour than one I’d drink any or every day, but I’ll absolutely be drinking it again. And it’s one I’ll now wholeheartedly recommend. $75

My top 3 recommendations from the new line-up: the 2021 Namaste, the 2021 X-Omni, and the 2022 Momtazi. Pro tip: If you plan to pick-up a bottle or two, make one of them a magnum. You’ll thank yourself - and me - later.

2023 Andante Blanc de Blancs

While this is not a traditional method wine, it's a force-carbonated bottling of exceptional quality - and a cheery, lively, downright delightful expression of Aligoté. The Andante sparkler is soft and delicate, with lingering flavors of orchard fruit and crisp white peach. It’s the perfect spring picnic wine and would make a delicious accompaniment to any salad - especially one topped with orchard fruits, walnuts, and blue cheese. If you’re curious about Bourgogne’s other white grape, this is a pleasantly playful place to start. $35

In the Know

Aligot - not to be confused with Aligoté wine - is a classic dish from the Aubrac region of France, and it’s basically the best cheesy mashed potatoes ever. Do they sit like lead in your stomach? Absolutely. But my god, they’re worth every extra pound.

Aligot is made by blending mass quantities of butter, cream, garlic, and of tomme fraîche cheese into hot, velvety, pureed potatoes. The result is a creamy yet gloriously elastic, stretchy texture loaded with comfort and flavor. And yes, you’ll definitely want some wine to help wash it down - perhaps an Aligoté.

In the Hopper

Willamette Valley Guide 2.0 coming this weekend.

In Memoriam

This one is tough.

I've completed six harvests over the course of my wine life, and in my experience it's something one either loves or hates. I loved it. Aside from writing, I don't think anything has ever given me more energy or joy. And while much of that passion was certainly for the making of wine, it was also because the connections formed were priceless and unmatched. A harvest, particularly one processing tons of fruit with a micro-team of two to four, is an incredibly intimate experience. It pushes, tests, strains, breaks, builds, and enlivens all at once.

People often say: if you want to really get to know someone, travel with them. I say, do a harvest with them. A harvest is like a small theatrical production. It intertwines a hodgepodge of individuals, working day and night, thrust into immediate collaboration to achieve peak performances for a limited run. But unlike a theatrical production, there is no acting on the crush pad, no pretending to be someone else. It forces you to be exactly who you are - exposing faults and weaknesses, highlighting strengths and talent - without exception or apology. And this all happens in one short, intense season. That combination, those circumstances, are never again repeated. They can be replicated, but never quite the same; nor fully understood by anyone but that vintage's cast of characters. And today I want to honor one such character, whose name and light will forever be etched in my story - as well as the stories of all he knew and touched.

Mark McBride - a son, a brother, a father, a grandfather, a friend, and an all-around incredible human who brought depth, humor, compassion, and loyalty to everything he did - was taken from us tragically, unexpectedly, and senselessly in a hit-and-run accident this past week. Mark was only 51. And while others can better tell his life story and share more accolades and years of memories, I want to briefly honor the few but impactful moments I had the opportunity to share with Mark at Hickory Creek Winery in Buchanan, Michigan, between 2019 and 2021.

I began working at Hickory Creek in 2018 with winery owner Adam McBride, Mark’s younger brother. At the time, both Mark and I helped out in the tasting room and cellar when we could. On the few occasions we worked the tasting room together, we made a hilarious, lively, and efficient team behind the bar - cracking each other and the guests up in equal measure. We planted Chardonnay vines side by side in the small estate vineyard, bottled and labeled hundreds of bottles of wine, and shared many a beer. But it was the harvest of 2020 that will stay with me most. It was the pandemic year. Everyone and everything was on lockdown, but grapes grow and wine must be made. The season started with caution, masks, and nervousness - but it proved to be the connection we all so desperately needed and craved those long, lonely months. Not only did we give everything we had that vintage - it was returned to us twofold - and in no small part thanks to Mark. Mark: a man whose character displayed honesty, thoughtfulness, humor, protectiveness, tenacity, and willingness. I remember laughing until it literally hurt - over the wetsuit, antics with the pallet jack, my "surprise" birthday party, the grunge band album covers, sing-alongs, and countless chats about spiders, bands, and Star Trek vs. Star Wars - as well as the heavier conversations about family, life, and finding meaning in it all. We were family - for one short season.

As I said, many of those tales and inside jokes aren’t likely to resonate with anyone who wasn’t a part of our small cast - in which Mark played such a large role. But hopefully this offers some insight into his character, a testament to how connections - regardless of size or length of time - can make and leave an imprint. I’m still without adequate words to do him or my feelings justice, but I wanted to raise a literal and figurative glass and say: To Mark. Thank you. I love you. And to the ensemble cast of harvest 2020 - the same. I miss you all.

Fortunately, both my palate and I eventually matured. After meeting my husband (on a pub crawl - a story for another time), our favorite dates revolved around food and wine, albeit more for the company than the quality of our meals. We sipped often, but not a lot - Napa Cabs, Merlot, Zin, Aussie Shiraz, the occasional low-budget Bordeaux or Burgundy (again, thinking we were fancy). And then we found Rioja. And Ribera. Again and again. Spanish wines lit a spark that whet my appetite, shaped my palate, and ultimately drove what has become an insatiable curiosity for all things wine.

Then came our first winery visit in Temecula, California, an unplanned pit stop mid-road trip because we were basically in the middle of the desert and needed a restroom. What was meant to be two minutes became two hours. After that, we started cutting our teeth on wine by tasting all across the U.S. Piling into the car for the holidays? There’s a winery on the way. Driving the kids to the Rockies? Wineries make fabulous lunch stops. Eventually, our European sabbatical became an extension of those stateside adventures. And just like at home, we still weren’t chasing points, vintages, or big names. Our discoveries were driven entirely by curiosity. We loved seeing what different regions were capable of, which grapes could and couldn’t grow, and most of all, sipping where the locals sipped - because that’s where the real stories live.

I love observing the role of wine within local communities - from Hector, New York to Eger, Hungary - because wine is a way of life. And the majority of those wines, in the majority of those communities, aren’t the highly revered, collectible variety. They’re local. Specific to that place - what’s made there, or simply what’s available. That’s something too often lost in the broader wine conversation. It’s not all points and prestige. The people chasing specific bottles, vintages, and producers are the minority. For most people, it’s simply about the wine that’s liked, known, affordable, and on hand.

That’s not to say I don’t geek out with my wine friends, splurge with my husband, and drink the wines I’ve come to love, I do for sure. But I’m also still buying the $10 bottles, stopping at the winery in the middle of the desert, doing the flight in a tasting room in Southern Illinois, having the random glass in someone’s garage in Italy, and trying varieties from regions not yet well-known or even well-regarded. And when the “Somm” on Instagram sends me a vomit emoji for talking about (and god forbid liking) one of those wines, I’ll raise my glass to the packed tables of locals and tourists laughing, sharing, and enjoying life all around me. Because that’s never been what this is about. Wine isn’t a test to pass or a hierarchy to climb. It’s an invitation - and everyone’s welcome at the table. At least my table.

It’s been a long time since those early days of Yellowtail Shiraz, and a lifetime since the homemade hooch. I’ve explored, studied, tasted, and collected a few certifications along the way. I’ve devoted both my life and my career to this beverage. But wine, for me, has never really been about the wine; although I do love what it brings to a meal, when its aromas stop me in my tracks, the way it can delight my palate, and when it brings me to a goosebump moment. But really, it’s the people, the stories, and the places that made me want to keep filling my glass.

Here are a few wines to fill your glass and get those memories going around your literal and figurative tables. Maybe one of them will even stop you in your tracks. Cheers!

In My Glass

2024 Frescobaldi Castiglioni Chianti DOCG

I’m an explorer at heart. But I’m also not going to settle for poor quality when I’m shopping for or opening wine either. And some nights I just want something I can count on without overthinking it (because I’m likely overthinking everything else!). Thankfully, there are plenty of wines under $30 and even under $20 that not only make the cut, but often exceed expectations. And Chianti is one - particularly from Frescobaldi, who’s been at the game for more than 700 years and across 30 generations. This budget-bev was exactly what I’ve come to expect from this Tuscan winemaking family: trusted quality and expression of place. The 2024 Chianti is predominantly Sangiovese, but it does have a touch of Merlot and does not see any oak - all of which make this wine fresh, fruit-forward, and approachable. In other words, it fit exactly what I was looking for on a post-work decompresh sesh with the hubby. Exhale. $12

2024 Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Rosé

I have strong feelings about rosés of Pinot Noir. I often find them boring and over-priced. Pinot Noir is not inexpensive fruit. And it’s a challenge to grow. So nine times out of 10, the grapes that are going towards the rosé aren’t the best stuff. Okay, maybe that’s an exaggeration and oversimplification, but when rosé got trendy, quantity seemed to prevail. Of course, that’s not true across the board, and the one I know I can count on year-over-year is at Bethel Heights Vineyard in the Willamette Valley’s Eola-Amity Hills AVA. This is an intentionally crafted rosé. It’s a showcase versus an afterthought. Until recently, the winery used only its own-rooted Pinot Noir vines from 1977 for this blushing beauty. Unfortunately, that section of the vineyard was eventually lost to phylloxera, but that didn’t deter the family who transitioned to another trusted estate block of Pinot planted in 1999. And the 2024 version is another winner. It’s confident, assertive, and dripping with quality. Not to mention ripe strawberries, juicy watermelon, and all things summer and sun. It’s not only good, it’s mood boosting. Seasonal Affective Remedy. $30

2021 Domaine Michel Lafarge Meursault

White Burgundy. I could just stop there. Those two words complete me. But in case you need more, this sometimes splurge is an every time satisfier. The aromas alone sent a shiver down my spine and my eyes back in my head. And the silky, enveloping texture with its insanely complex array of flavors lit up every taste bud, while the lightning energy had my mouth watering and toes curling. It’s certainly occasion-worthy, but you can also just make it the occasion. And you won’t be sorry. Had me at hello. $80

In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

In the spirit of sharing some of those lesser known wine regions across the United States, let’s take a brief look at Verde Valley AVA.

Located southwest of Sedona, Arizona, and about 100 miles north of the Phoenix area, the Verde Valley AVA encompasses around 200 square miles within the greater Verde Valley. The Verde River flows through the center of the valley from northwest to southeast, with steep higher terrain rising on all sides. The AVA sits at elevations between 3,000 and 5,000 feet with most vineyards around the 3,800 feet elevation marker. The region is sun-drenched with little rain and the soils are mostly alluvial with limestone and clay loam. Irrigation is permitted and often necessary; however, one of the most distinguishing factors for the AVA is the diurnal temperature swing which allows for more balanced ripening of the grapes. The grape varieties here are a mix including Cab, Merlot, Syrah, Grenache, Barbera, and even Aglianico for the reds. For whites: Malvasia Bianca, Viognier, Vermentino, Sauvignon Blanc, and more. Verde Valley is home to around 20 wineries, 130+ acres of vines, and over 25 tasting rooms.

Winery of the Week

Caduceus Cellars was founded by musician and Grammy-winning Tool frontman Maynard James Keenan in 2004. Caduceus and its sister winery, Merkin Vineyards, maintain 110 acres of high elevation vineyards across Arizona, including six in the Verde Valley and one in the Willcox AVA. The vineyards range in elevation from 3,300 to 4,900 feet in a variety of soil compositions (granite, chalk, volcanic, alluvial, limestone, loam, and clay among them), and are managed sustainably. Grapes grown include Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, Aglianico, and Malvasia among dozens of others. Caduceus Cellars and Merkin Vineyards operate two tasting rooms, one open to the public in the historic town of Jerome, Arizona and one available for private tastings in Cottonwood, Arizona. Pp poop They offer a wide range of white, rosé, and red wines including blends and single varietals. The Caduceus line is crafted more representative of Old World-style dry European wines while the Merkin Vineyard line is more of a New World fruit-forward style. They produce around 14,000 cases of wine annually and are easily one of the more recognized labels from this relatively unknown AVA, which they also helped to officially establish in 2021.

Recommendations: Based on my tasting of the red wine flight from the Caduceus line, I would recommend the 2022 Primer Paso (a blend of Syrah, Durif, and Malvasia), the 2021 Le Cortigiane Oneste (100% Barbera and my personal favorite), and the 2022 Anubis (a blend of Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, and Aglianico). I brought both the Oneste and Anubis home and plan to age the Anubis for a few more years. That Barbera though…that one will be going down soon!

In the Spirit

I have met more women winery owners and winemakers in Spain than most other wine regions or countries in which I’ve traveled (the only exception maybe being the Willamette Valley in Oregon). Granted, this is not hard data and more of an anecdotal and personal observation, but one that I have certainly noted. And since it was recently International Women’s Day and I’ve been writing a lot about Rioja recently, I wanted to share one more of my insights from Rioja Camp, the exciting news that Raquel Pérez Cuevas was elected as the first female President of Rioja DOCa and the Rioja Wine Interprofessional Organization - a significant development in one of the most renowned wine regions of the world.

Raquel, who welcomed our class to Rioja Camp, is a proprietor and fourth generation winemaker of the Ontañón family. The Ontañón Family winemaking company represents four generations and produces wines from their family-owned vineyards in the DOCa Rioja, DO Rueda, and DO Ribera de Duero appellations, through Bodegas Ontañón, Queirón, and Rippa Dorii. Raquel holds degrees in agricultural engineering, oenology, and business management, and is fluent in Spanish, English, and French, positioning her as a natural global ambassador for Rioja. In her leadership role with DOCa Rioja, she hopes to emphasize unity, transparency, and shared responsibility across the region as well as promoting Rioja’s diversity - in grape varieties, soils, climates, wines, and beyond - on an international level.

So, in the spirit of Women’s History Month, here’s a peek inside the Ontañón Family’s newest winery, in Raquel’s home village of Quel, Queirón. Quel sits in the Rioja Oriental zone of DOCa Rioja in the Cidacos River Valley, between the Sierra Yerga and Sierra la Hez mountain ranges. It’s a unique area and home to the “Barrio de Bodegas,” ancient winemaking caves from the 18th century that were built into sheer sandstone cliffs.

Queirón, a long-time dream of Raquel’s father Gabriel, is a four-level, gravity-flow winery built into a historic, existing cave within Quel where they process grapes from more than 30 separate vineyard parcels located in and around the village, including the Garnacha vineyard “El Arca,” planted in 1892, and the “La Pasada” Tempranillo vineyard planted at some of the highest elevation vineyards in the entire DOCa Rioja. The six limited collection wines produced here are intended to express the soul of Quel and are as such labeled under the DOCa’s village-level classification of origin, Vinos de Quel.

In the Room Where It Happened

This past weekend, I had the opportunity to attend the first annual Oregon Truffle Dinner at Anacréon Winery, as part of the winery’s new intimate dinner experiences.

Nestled in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, Anacréon Winery is the realization of a long-time dream for husband and wife, Kipp and Danell Myers. The Utah-natives began as wine travelers, but after a few visits to the Willamette Valley, they decided to open their own winery and share their passion with others. And that’s exactly what they do through their privately hosted tasting experiences where you share in this special time, often with Danell and Kipp, because for them, wine is connection and community.

The Truffle Dinner was held at the winery’s newly opened Tasting House, which sits at the heart of the Belle Colline Vineyard overlooking the Ribbon Ridge, the Dundee Hills, and of course, the Chehalem Mountains. The intimate dinner, much like the winery’s ongoing tasting experiences, featured the clever creations of Chef Erick Caballero paired with the Estate’s wines. And while the delectables are the star of the experience, it’s the connections made that will leave you fulfilled - whether those are with your own company, newly met friends, or Kipp and Danell themselves. It’s that whole thing about wine bringing people to a shared table again. And if that table includes truffle-laden dishes, well, that’s all the better.

In Depth

Let’s keep rolling on unusual grapes this week because I’ve found a few winners in my recent travels, like this Pineau d’Aunis from Domaine Colin and the little known Coteaux du Vendômois region of the Loire Valley. I first came upon this wine a few years ago in the Loire, but again more recently at a restaurant in Chicago.

Pineau d’Aunis is a grape variety used to produce single-varietal and blended red wines. It brings a distinct character, producing a range of bright red fruit flavors, to herbal and peppery notes, with a notable tannic structure and acidity. Prior to my visit to the Loire, I had heard of neither the grape nor the appellation, but that’s no surprise as 90% of Vendôme’s vineyards were pulled out after WWII. Fortunately in 2001, the region was designated as an AOC for wine in France and producers started to refocus their efforts on the local grapes. Now that said, there’s currently only around 20 producers, and I’ll be honest, a lot of it still needs refinement, but that’s also to be expected in a region that is reviving its winemaking. But there were also a few producers that stood out for exceptional quality, talent, and some beautifully crafted wines - and for me Domaine Colin was at the top of that list.

Domaine Colin has been farmed since 1735, and today Patrice Colin and his son, Pierre François represent the eighth and ninth generations farming 28 hectares of Pineau d’Aunis, Chenin, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, and Chardonnay. They focus on winemaking with natural yeast and minimal intervention. And they do it expertly. I had the opportunity to taste their Chenin, red blend of Pineau d’Aunis and Pinot Noir, and several vintages of their limited edition “Red Intuition,” a 100% Pineau d’Aunis (including a 2008 that has aged exquisitely). The Red Intuition comes from vines planted in 1890, where soil work is done by horse and carried out in harmony with the moon’s phases. It’s then vinified and aged in both barrels and amphorae. Unfortunately, the Intuition is not available here in the states, but the Domaine’s current vintages are imported and absolutely worth seeking out.

In the Moment

We’ve all likely seen images of barrel rooms, have maybe walked through them, tasted from them, or even had the opportunity to work in them. But have you seen *racking take place?

*Racking is the process of transferring wine from one vessel to another and serves a number of different purposes, from removing wine from the gross lees (dead yeast cells and other solids leftover from fermentation), or to provide oxygen to the wine as part of maturation.

In Rioja, when it comes to racking, a few cellars continue an old tradition of carrying out this process by candlelight. They begin by releasing wine from a full barrel into another empty barrel or vessel as seen here at Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta.

As the wine flows, the cellar master checks the clarity of the wine by candlelight. The moment they see sediment in the wine as it’s transferring, which indicates they are nearing the bottom of the barrel where the sediment has settled, they stop the flow and move on to another full barrel. The process then begins all over again until every barrel has been racked.

The number of times this process takes place depends on the cellar. For example, in the case of La Rioja Alta S.A., this process occurs every six months for its barrel aging wines - and that’s across some 50,000 barrels!

In Production

Something new, fun, and exciting is fermenting. The thing I love most about wine is sharing it. I do it often with friends, family, fellow travelers, writers, and of course nearly anyone that I meet through my various channels or organically around the world. Well, I’m now spreading that love of wine and sharing it with anyone visiting (or living in) Willamette Valley, as well as officially for travelers staying at the fabulously chic, cozy, and woman-owned Compass McMinnville.

My tastings, which kicked off last month, are built around the guest’s curiosities and interests, whether it’s discovering more of what makes the Willamette Valley so fascinating, or adventuring beyond. For example, you can compare Oregon bubbles to Champagne, taste local Pinot Noir or Chardonnay next to those from around the globe, dive deeper into Willamette Valley favorites without the rush of hopping from place to place, get geeky on the basics of tasting, wine 101, or even explore wines from around the world. It’s truly a choose-your-adventure tasting, thoughtfully curated, story-driven, and hosted without crowds or pretense - just exceptional wine and great conversation. And of course, guests are also treated to a random bottle from my own collection, because it’s still all about sharing!

Visiting the Willamette Valley or know someone that is? You know where to find me. (When I’m not buzzing around the world collecting more wine and stories! )

In the Hopper

Speaking of buzzing around the world…The wine is calling. Obviously, I’m answering. I’m currently in route to Japan where grape-based wine is on the scavenger hunt! Then it’s off to Italy, California, and Armenia, all in the coming weeks. Travel season is here and it’s about to get real! Stay-tuned. But before things get too chaotic, I promise to get you that Willamette Valley Guide reboot before the end of the month. More wine, more world, more words. See you on the other side.

In My Glass

2024 Segno Librandi Cirò DOC Rosato

This pink pour is definitively Italian and it has something to say. It’s not shy or the slightest bit subtle either. It’s sassy, in your face, and most certainly will have you standing at attention. From the Calabria region of Southern Italy, this rosato from the native grape Gaglioppo is deeply salmon-colored with assertive aromas of red fruits and herbs. It was both intense and robust enough to stand up to a variety of flavorful sushi maki with its bold notes of pomegranate, strawberry, and zesty blood orange, not to mention its engaging texture. I’m pretty sure if this wine had a persona, it would be the one starting the post-Vinitaly bash at the gas station - the one that starts with wine, cigarettes, and local songs, and devolves (or evolves) into dancing, debauchery, and credit card sabering of an untold number of bottles of metodo classico. It’s ubiquitously unboring. Fuck. (or Kiss depending on your penchant or lack-there-of for profanity) $18

2022 Angelo Negro Perdaudin Roero Arneis Riserva

Alright, after that adrenaline-junkie of a wine that will leave you breathless after its memorable goodbye (chef’s) kiss, let’s slow things down to a more subtle, romantic, yet equally enticing cascade of flavors and complexity. This dry and exotic white wine will charm with a soft, silky finesse. A wine often recognized for its delicate yet warming floral aromas and unctuous orchard fruit flavors, this expression takes a refreshing tropical turn with hints of pineapple, laced with a clean minerality. It’s smart and calming, and leaves a lasting impression. Marry. $29

2021 Jean-Luc Jamet Côte Rôtie “Pirate”

I’m gunna start off by saying, I did not pay the current retail price of this wine when I bought it last year. Pretty sure I shelled out around $75. I guess this is one of those wines that appreciates in value? Well, based on our ignorant enjoyment, for good reason. It’s a limited production Syrah from a prestigious lieu-dit* and frankly, it rocks. If you’re a fan of that dirty, mineral, earthy Syrah synonymous with the Northern Rhône - think meaty, olive tapenade, grilled herbs, and white pepper, with a core of red fruit - this is one to snag and lay down. It’s a punchy juvenile atm, dense and concentrated, but it’s marked for future success and reward. Granted, picking it up now may be something of a FOMO buy. So maybe… Kill? (or just plan to kill the bottle at some point in the future - your call) $200

2022 Muga Rioja Blanca

Plot twist! I know I said this week’s pours were non-Rioja, but after that last bottle, I thought I’d share a few more reasonably priced bevies that deliver quality and deliciousness without causing anyone to raise an eyebrow at your cc statement. White Rioja. It’s a thing. And it’s not all oxidative, aged, and pricey. The category is trending and this Muga demonstrates why. It’s clean, crisp, has a popping acidity, and a range of aromas and flavors, making it anything but simple and forgettable. If you see this on a btg list, don’t hesitate. In fact, at this price point, it’s likely to be one that the bartender wittingly over pours (past the 5 oz mark), and for that you’ll be grateful. Fill‘er up. $20

2018 Conde Valdemar Rioja Crianza

It’s hard to beat a Crianza on price and quality. Seriously, Rioja is basically the Napa equivalent of Spain - well-marketed, sold and recognized worldwide, and yet many of the region’s second-tier labels are not only palatably priced, they’re also unequivocally palatable. Okay, maybe not every single one, but I’ve yet to be disappointed by anything Bodegas Valdemar produces - and that goes for their Valdemar Estate in Walla Walla, Washington as well. So yes, you could elevate your Tuesday night by inadvertently pouring a $200 wine, or you could knowingly crack open this affordable Crianza for a better-than-average Tuesday, because it’s gunna get a Second Date. $18 (for the 2019)

*Lieu-dit is a French term translated to "named place." In wine, it often refers to a particular parcel of land that under traditional and historical use is referred to by that name and has a boundary defined by distinct soil, elevation, or history, highlighting terroir.

In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

I’m going to keep the regional section brief and somewhat redundant this week. Many of the stories below will pertain to the Rioja Alavesa zone of DOCa Rioja, so here’s a refresher:

Rioja Alavesa sits in the western part of the Rioja region with the Ebro River to the south and the Sierra de Cantabria mountain range to the north. It is planted to 33,900 acres of vines and encompasses 18 municipalities. It is defined by its rugged terrain, higher altitude, Atlantic influence, and its soils of clay, iron, and limestone. Rioja Alavesa wines are generally described as classic and elegant with higher acidity, fine tannins, and the ability to age extensively.

Wineries of the Week

When thinking of Rioja Alavesa a few big names come to mind including Marqués de Riscal, Bodegas Luis Cañas, and Bodegas Ysios. This week, I want to highlight a few of the lesser-known names making big impressions with small plots and old vines.

Bodegas Aiurri in Leza, Spain, sits in some of the higher elevations of Rioja Alavesa. Its historic vineyards consist of a collection of 60 small plots in the foothills of the Sierra del Toloño mountain range, each with unique clonal biodiversity, orientations, soils, altitudes, and microclimates. The female-led team at Bodegas Aiurri works each plot individually to showcase the unique character of the land. The grapes for Aiurri are grown between 500 and 600 meters above sea level in soils of loam and limestone. Here, the notable diurnal temperature shift helps to maintain the freshness of the grapes and wines. These diverse, small vineyard plots span 67 acres of bush vines aged 50 to 100 years and are farmed with ecological and sustainable viticulture practices to promote vine longevity. Primarily planted to various clones of Tempranillo, interspersed with Viura, Graciano, Garnacha, and other unidentified vines, the vineyards coexist with olive trees, oaks, and aromatic plants like lavender and rosemary to further balance the precious ecosystem.

As for the wines, you’ll find three: Landua, Aiurri, and Salas. Each label is fermented with native yeast and only gentle extraction to preserve the unique terroir of the 60 small vineyard plots from which the wines are crafted. Landua is a reflection of the small plots of old vineyards between the municipalities of Sonsierra and Laguardia; Aiurri represents the character of Rioja Alavesa and the old vines that grow in the shelter of the Toloño mountain range; and the Salas is crafted from a 6.4-acre plot of 100-year-old vines with such clonal diversity, that there are multiple micro-plots within this small plot. Each wine is a unique encapsulation of place, time, and culture. And perhaps the village of Leza itself…

Making a case for village-level wines in Rioja? That’s exactly the aim of Bodega Bideona founded in 2018 in Rioja Alavesa as a joint-venture between the Izagirre family and Península Vinicultores. Bideona cultivates over 300 parcels of vineyards in the villages of Villabuena de Álava, Samaniego, Laguardia, Leza, Baños de Ebro, Navaridas, Lanciego and Elciego. The average vineyard size is around 0.75 acres and the average age is around 50 years old, with many parcels planted in the 1920s, 30s and 40s. Each plot is managed independently to contribute decisively to wines more expressive of origin versus method of production and aging.

Bodega Bideona currently offers nine wines each intended to reflect their parcels, village, or region. The single parcel wines include Bideona Cofrades, a red wine from a 1.75 acre, ancient vineyard in Leza with a diversity of old massal selections including Tempranillo, Viura, Garnacha, Graciano, and Mencía, and Bideona Galtzada a red wine from a 1.1 acre vineyard of old vine Garnacha in Lanciego.

The village wines labeled creatively by letters and numbers**, include Bideona Laguardia (L4GD4), Bideona Villabuena (V1BN4), Bideona Samaniego (S4MG0), Bideona Leza (L3Z4), and Bideona Lanciego (LNCG0). Each wine is a field blend of Tempranillo made the same way to highlight the different characteristics resulting from each village’s clones, soils, position, and climate.

And as for the regional wines, Bideona Las Parcelas Blanco is a white blend with a majority of Viura. Las Parcelas Tinto is a red wine primarily of Tempranillo. Each is comprised of grapes from across Bideona’s 300 parcels.

**Under the DOCa Rioja regulations, there are three different classifications of origin: Viñedo Singular - single vineyard or parcel with a minimum vine age of 35 years and must be Rioja DOCa accredited for 10 years; Vinos de Pueblo - all grapes are exclusive to one village; and Vinos de Zona - the grapes are exclusively from one of Rioja’s 3 zones. While Bideona’s village wines would seemingly fall into the category of Vinos de Pueblo, the regulations require the winery’s physical location to also be in the same village as the vineyard from which the grapes are sourced. In other words, Bideona cannot use “Laguardia” on the label for their wine sourced from their Laguardia vineyards since the winery itself sits in Villabuena. Thus they named the wine “L4GD4.”

In My Mind

Bodega Bideona is still in its infancy (particularly for a Rioja winery), but the proof of their “origin vs production” philosophy is notable in the glass. Each village-level wine had unique qualities and characteristics. I personally would like to see a multi-vintage tasting of each of Bideona’s village wines to see if the characteristics remain consistent vintage after vintage, as well as to compare their Leza village wine next to Aiurri’s Salas, also from Leza. If there is consistency, I would definitely think they are on to something significant, which as a wine geek I can completely get behind. And I’m certainly up for the research.

That said, I do wonder if this push for a classification system that recognizes village labeling by vineyard vs. winery location will complicate the marketplace. It would essentially be similar to the Bourgogne-model of classification, which makes sense for the hundreds of parcels and dozens of villages with unique terroir across Rioja, but could also make it challenging or intimidating for the average wine enthusiast. I mean, hell, I’ve been studying wine for decades, and while Bourgogne has not been an area I’ve focused on heavily, I have studied it on numerous occasions, and I still get incredibly lost, and yes, definitely intimidated. And that’s with only 44 villages. Rioja has 144. That said, maybe the world is ready for a more nuanced version of Rioja. It is one of the most recognized regions globally, and it could create a new level of excitement and discovery. Wine Food for thought.

In The Room Where It Happened

Isn’t it wonderful to think, despite all of society’s incredible advances, that new discoveries are still possible out there in the wild? For me, it’s also one of the most rewarding aspects of wine. Whether it’s exploring new regions, varieties, or producers, or simply peeling back the layers of places previously delved into, the insights and revelations are never-ending. Such was the case on my most recent visit to Rioja, a region I’ve loved and studied for two decades and whose layers prove to be ever more numerous each time.

As students of wine we’re first taught about the main wine grape varieties. Then as we delve deeper into our studies, we learn that many of them are spontaneous crossings of other grapes, the most famous example being the crossing of Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc to create Cabernet Sauvignon. Well, in a recent visit to Bodegas Amaren in Rioja Alavesa, I learned that Tempranillo is also born of a natural and spontaneous crossing. In this case, a crossing of two native Spanish varieties, Albillo Mayor (a white grape) and Benedicto (a red grape). I’ll give Benedicto the attention it deserves below, but first I want to shine a light on the groundbreaking work happening at Amaren.

Bodegas Amaren, founded in 2016, was born from the Amaren label at Bodegas Luis Cañas. The label, Amaren Reserva Tempranillo, was named for Ángeles, the wife of Luis Cañas and mother of the winery’s next generation leader, Juan Luis Cañas. In 1995, Juan Luis set out to create a wine that expressed the personality of Tempranillo from several plots of old vineyards. At that time, his mother, who worked the vineyards alongside Luis and Juan Luis, passed. Amaren translates to “of the mother” in the Basque language, and the wine is a tribute to her role in the creation and development of the family winery. Eventually, Juan Luis opened the new winery, Bodegas Amaren in Rioja Alavesa, dedicated both to his late mother and to a style of wines more representative of place and vine, than aging and oak.

In recent years, the Cañas family, now led by Juan Luis and his son, Jon, began to take notice of the subtle differences in some of the old vines planted in their vineyards. Ever dedicated to the unique character of each vineyard, they teamed up with the Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences in Logroño to begin identifying each of the vines. In doing so, they discovered 37 vines of Benedicto as well as another 30 varieties and numerous clones that have been on their land for at least 100 years. They have since begun a recovery project of these vines and have planted over a hundred different biotypes of Tempranillo; dozens of variations of Graciano, Garnacha, Viura, and Malvasía de Rioja, among others.

The Cañas family not only uses these varieties to add more nuance to their wines, but they also believe the various clones and species can potentially be used as a tool to manage climate change with some varieties having more natural resistance to drought and heat. And while many of the old vines don’t produce much fruit, they are also experimenting with the various varieties through small batch and micro-vinifications, even bottling a few for limited production releases. And yes, a few of these newly rediscovered varieties, including Benedicto and Cadrete can be tasted at Bodegas Amaren! It’s proof that vineyards still hold secrets, even in regions as studied as Rioja.

In Good Conscience

Trees are vital to our shared environment. They pull carbon dioxide from the air, while producing the oxygen vital to our existence. In fact, according to the Arbor Day Foundation, a large tree will absorb more than 48 pounds of carbon dioxide in one year and can provide oxygen for up to four people daily. These natural wonders also transpire the water they take in from their roots, putting it back into the atmosphere, which ultimately forms clouds, rain, and snow.

In a 2020 study by Spain’s Basque Government, it was determined that the amount of greenhouse gasses released each year in the Basque Country can reach up to 18.9 million metric tons, while 10% of those emissions are absorbed by forests and crops. Recognizing the significance of trees to the local environment, the aforementioned Cañas family behind Bodegas Amaren and Luis Cañas, began planting new trees in their vineyards. They also extended the initiative to the 40+ vineyard families from which they source grapes. It’s estimated that within a few years, these newly planted trees will be capable of absorbing 6,500 kg of CO2, which equates to the total emissions of 65 car trips between the border of Northern California and Mexico. In other words, it’s not nothing for our mother Earth, especially as these trees will also enhance the vistas, lend biological diversity to the region, shelter local wildlife, provide fruit, and lend vital shade for the growers working the vines. And I might add, it also adds a bit of a celestial and dual meaning to their Basque name, Amaren.

In Depth

Rather than dive into one grape variety this week, let’s take a look at the 14 approved varieties for DOCa Rioja. Unsurprisingly, of the 165,000 acres of vines, Tempranillo makes up 88% of the plantings. And of course, you’re going to find that other wildly popular red Spanish variety of Garnacha. But there are a few more reds you might not know:

Graciano - an often favorite single-varietal wine of mine (if well-crafted), is widespread and boasts a long history in Rioja. It makes up only about 2.5% of plantings in the region, but it is known to be drought resistant and friendly in a blend adding aging potential with its tannins and acidity. On its own, it often has a deep color with notes of crushed cherries, herbs, and minerality.

Mazuelo - also makes up roughly 2% of plantings in Rioja and is often used in blends for its acidity and tannins. It too showcases red fruits, herbs, and spice.

Maturana Tinta - a variety I’m most excited about as it is becoming more common as a single-varietal wine. It is a delicious descendent of Cabernet Franc. Maturana Tinta has an intense color and tannins, and as you might suspect, is notably herbaceous. Keep your eyes out for this one!

Before we move onto the white grapes of Rioja, let’s quickly chat about the recently discovered (although technically not approved variety) of Benedicto. Benedicto, which we now know is a parent of Tempranillo with Albillo Mayor, was long thought to be extinct. The recent findings in Rioja Alavesa have shown that this native grape produces a solid quality wine with high aromatic potential. It’s structured, but with notable balance, juicy acidity, and fine tannins. And it definitely does not lack for freshness. It’s also proving to be a suitable variety to stand-up to climate change.

Now, let’s turn our attention to the all too overlooked side of Rioja, the white wines, of which there are nine varieties. In other words, it’s definitely not all the oxidative, oaked style of Viura many of us first encounter when seeking a White Rioja (looking at you, with utter love and devotion, López de Heredia).

Viura (aka Macabeo) is the most widely planted white grape accounting for 66% of plantings. It spans a range of styles from fresh and crisp to more complex and brooding with flavors of green apple, white flowers, and almonds. Among the other white grapes, you’ll encounter the typical international varieties, including Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, alongside well-known Spanish grapes like Verdejo and Garnacha Blanca. And as for those lesser-known white grape stars, they include:

Tempranillo Blanco — not made from red grapes, but a white mutation of Tempranillo discovered in 1988 and found only here. Aromatic, with floral, citrus, and tropical notes, and refreshing acidity.

Malvasía de Rioja — one of Rioja’s oldest whites, not related to the Malvasía family. Fuller-bodied, creamy, and highly aromatic, with stone fruit and floral notes.

Maturana Blanca — the most historic variety, showing apple, banana, citrus, and subtle herbaceous undertones.

Turruntés (Albillo Mayor) — unrelated to Torrontés from Galicia or Argentina. It’s light on the palate, with bright acidity, gentle bitterness, and orchard fruit, vegetal, and herbaceous notes. And it’s half of the parentage for Tempranillo!

While these whites are going to be found mostly in blends, as a category, white Rioja now makes up 12% of Rioja’s overall sales. Not only that, Rioja is now the 2nd largest white wine producing region - even ahead of Rías Baixas. These crisp quaffers are easily changing how people drink Rioja, and I think you’ll soon see them taking more deserved space on wine lists. I, for one, am ready for that!

In Brief

While we’re on the topic of interesting grape discoveries, a few years ago on a trip to the Navarra region of Spain I had the opportunity to visit the Estación de Viticultura y Enología de Navarra, EVENA, in the town of Olite. EVENA is a government organization specializing in education and exploration.

The research station has its own greenhouses where they cultivate various ancient vines, as well as an experimental vineyard and winery. The group conducts research and experiments, and serves as a resource to local growers by offering technical advice on the subjects of viticulture and oenology. Some projects have included old vine identification and cultivation, the history of Garnacha, carbon capture in soils, sulfite-free winemaking, and growing strategies for climate change. The studies I found most interesting was that of the ancient vines.

The researchers at EVENA have discovered 10 completely unidentifiable grape varieties in the area’s ancient vineyards. They refer to these 10 mystery grapes collectively as the Zoca Zarras. Currently, EVENA has put forth four of the 10 Zoca Zarras, which they believe to be viable as wine grapes, for inclusion in the Register of Commercial Varieties.

In Living Color

If you’re new to Rioja, or even just a general enthusiast of the region, the town of Haro is one of the easiest places to begin your regional travels and explorations. Located at the heart of the Rioja Alta zone, Haro is home to the legendary Barrio de la Estación, the greatest concentration of century-old wineries in the world. Some of Rioja’s most iconic producers are based here, and even after several visits, I still discover something new each time.

The Haro train station, built in 1863, quickly became a vital artery for transporting Spanish wine, as well as French winemakers into Rioja when phylloxera devastated French vineyards. With the French came new techniques, most notably an emphasis on barrel aging. When many of the French eventually returned home, Basque families stepped in, blending that French precision with Spanish tradition. This is when the legacy emerged. The first of the wineries established in the Barrio was R. López de Heredia y Landeta in 1877. In 1879, two brothers from Bilbao founded the Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España, more commonly known as CVNE. Three more wineries followed in relatively short order: A. y J. Gómez Cruzado (1886), La Rioja Alta S.A. (1890), and Bodegas Bilbaínas (1901). Eventually, in 1970, Bodegas Muga (1932) moved its headquarters to the Barrio, and in 1987, Bodegas Roda became the last winery established in the Barrio. Today, the Barrio de La Estación offers wine tours, a “Passport” experience, and every two years they host a fast-selling festival at which all six wineries open their doors to ticket holders and offer two wines and a variety of tapas.

(Special note: R. López de Heredia, although a founding member of the Barrio, no longer participates in its tourism programs.)

In Context

Rioja is not all big name producers with thousands of barrels and millions of bottles. Like any region, there are plentiful producers spanning from the large and globally recognized to the micro and relatively unknown. In recent years, a group of those small wineries formed Menudas Bodegas, a collective to help raise not only their individual profiles, but their shared mindset. Scattered across Rioja, these artisanal wineries share a set of simple philosophies:

• The vineyard and cellar center around one person - a vigneron who both grows the grapes and makes the wine.

• Production is tiny. Generally fewer than 10,000 bottles per winery (roughly less than 1,000 cases/year).

• Quality isn’t scaled here. It’s handcrafted, driven by detail, devotion, and the steady hand of the grower for a pure expression of site, season, and soul.

As part of my experience at Rioja Camp, I was able to meet two Menudas Bodegas near Haro and both in Rioja Alta: Elena Corzana and Bodegas Óscar Pérez. The two vignerons shared their limited production wines inside the Pérez family’s 200-year-old underground cellar in the medieval village of Briones (a historic town worth a visit if you’re in the region).

Óscar Pérez produces just two wines: “Zaruga Blanco” a white Rioja of Viura and Garnacha Blanca and “Zaruga Tinto,” a Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Mazuelo. This is a small family project with heart, history, and a desire to communicate them both through wine. And they are open by appointment for tours as well.

Elena Corzana crafts four wines from her family vineyard in Navarrete: Maturana Tinta, Graciano, Maturana Blanca, and “Lane Greta,” a Tempranillo made in collaboration with her cousin, Sandra Corzana. Like Óscar, Elena grew up in Rioja where her family has long ties to viticulture. After spending 20 years making wine around the world, she returned home to begin her own label with wines distinctly reflective of her home village of Navarrete.

If you want a more complete picture of DOCa Rioja when you visit Haro (or another part of Rioja), plan to seek out a few Menudas Bodegas as part of the adventure. They are as equal a part of Rioja’s authentic soul as the big names you already know and worth discovering.

In the Know

Here are a couple of extra details about DOCa Rioja and Haro that you might not know:

Bodegas Bilbaínas has produced a sparkling wine since its inception in 1901. It is named “Lumen” for the electric lights that were used in Haro - one of only two Spanish towns with electricity at the time. The other was Jerez.

Gómez Cruzado, founded in 1886, is considered the “boutique” winery of Haro’s Barrio with only a 240,000 bottle production. By contrast, CVNE produces between 7 to 8 million bottles.

Sixty-six percent of wines in the DOCa Rioja are barrel aged. There are approximately 329 “aging wineries,” home to around 1,330,000 225-liter oak barrels containing more than 400 million liters of wine.

In the News

Excited to share the news: I am now a Certified Rioja Wine Educator. (If this Substack isn’t evidence enough - ha!) As a wine writer, educator, consultant, and communicator with a long-standing focus on Spanish wine, Rioja represents both a professional cornerstone and a personal source of inspiration.

Spain was the country that first ignited my passion for wine, and Rioja remains one of the regions that continues to shape my curiosity and ambitions. It is an honor to have taken part in this program and to now be able to better contribute my voice, experience, and enthusiasm about this beautiful Spanish region.

In Production

The most downloaded guide I produced here in the last few years was easily my Willamette Valley Guide published in the fall of 2024. I’ve also received many emails and DMs from travelers requesting it, as well as from those that discovered something new as a result of using it for their trip planning or wine shopping. Well, since the publishing of the guide, I have likely visited dozens more wineries across the Valley, and I have certainly tasted hundreds more local wines. So, I think it’s time for an updated version. Stay-tuned. I’m hoping to drop my 2026 Willamette Valley Guide with new lists, new categories, and a few other surprises.

In the Hopper

Aside from the aforementioned WV Guide, I’ve just returned from a short trip to the Southwest and will have a few things to share from one of Arizona’s three American Viticultural Areas. And then it’s time to set off again for a trip that won’t be centered on wine, but will certainly include it. The region? Japan! I won’t be visiting the wine production areas on this visit, but with more than 350 wineries and several unique grape varieties in production, you know I’ll be “researching.”

I’ve made it, poured it, taught it, and toasted with it across cool-climate corners of the U.S., France, Hungary, Argentina, and even Spain. Cabernet Franc has shown me many expressions of itself over the years: cerebral, savory, restrained, electric. But I should have known it would be an Italian that ultimately captured my attention.

Italy looks very good on my boyfriend.

And so this week’s special issue is dedicated to those who, like me, tend to fall for Italians.

Special Feature

Cabernet Franc’s Seductive Evolution: Now Fluent in Italian

Cabernet Franc has long shined in the Loire Valley of France and in the exquisite blends of Bordeaux reds, but it is quietly moving beyond its cult-status and gaining attention among a growing number of wine consumers. Regions across the globe are staking a claim to this eminently drinkable variety, with many celebrating it as their regional star. Winemakers worldwide are raising its profile, both in red blends and through exemplary single-varietal expressions. From across the U.S. and Hungary, to the Languedoc, South Africa, Argentina - and of course, Italy too - Cabernet Franc is on the rise. But before we dive into its Italian chapter, let’s get to know the grape itself.

A Grape of Many Places

Cabernet Franc is a practical grape in the vineyard. It doesn’t require an extended growing season, making it more reliable in cooler vintages, and available for earlier harvests in seasons when rains or fires could pose a threat later on. It also generally fares better in warmer climates than earlier-ripening, thin-skinned varieties, due to its higher heat tolerance and better retention of acidity. This combination of flexibility and resilience allows Cabernet Franc to maintain quality and balance across a multitude of climates.

As a wine, Cabernet Franc is known for its freshness, bright acidic lift, and food-friendly versatility. Its expressions range from crunchy, brambly red fruits with the occasional green pepper or earthy note to more lush, dark-fruited wines with warming spices. It’s even being made in the juicy carbonic-maceration styles (like Beaujolais Nouveau), appassimento-style (like Amarone), sometimes without any oak at all, and yes, as rosé, white, and even sparkling wines.

But it’s not just climate or winemaking that creates these myriad expressions, there’s also terroir. The earthy notes of the Loire, the minerality found in parts of Argentina, the crunchy red fruits of the Finger Lakes, the raspberry notes of Livermore, California, or the dried herbs and black pepper of Napa Valley, all reflect their place.

But what of Italian Cabernet Franc? Nicoló Carrara, winemaker at Tuscany’s Tenuta Argentiera, describes it this way:

“I find it keeps a Mediterranean character, with silkier tannins and very fine spicy notes. It’s a grape that expresses terroir very clearly.”

Call Me By My Name: Cabernet Francesco

And I concur, having often described Italian Cab Francs as tasting distinctively of Italy, but why Cabernet Franc for this Mediterranean wine-producing region largely renowned for its Sangiovese and Nebbiolo?

It all started in the largely white wine producing regions of the Northeast, specifically Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Veneto where it was imported from Bordeaux over 150 years ago, along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carménère. Owing to the cool nights and gravelly, alluvial soils Cabernet Franc thrived, becoming firmly established; however, at the time it was often referred to as Bordò or Petite-Bordeaux and was frequently blended with or confused for Carménère.

“Cabernet Franc, especially in Northeastern Italy, is often known for its vegetal notes owing to our microclimate and soil characteristics,” says Giovanni Ruzzene, winemaker at Le Monde in Friuli. “But when planted in our silty-clay and limestone soils, we are able to reduce the vegetal character and obtain the unique savory, spicy nuances that are distinctive for the variety.”

The director of Consorizio Vini Colli Berici e Vicenza in the Veneto region, Giovanni Ponchia, also agrees that the right soil makes a big difference, adding, “The Colli Berici area, thanks to the peculiarity of the calcareous-clay soils, manages to ripen the grapes well, making the vegetal notes more elegant and never invasive.”

Ever in fashion, the Bordeaux varieties eventually made their way to Tuscany. They were most notably planted from Italian cuttings at Castiglioncello di Bolgheri by Marchese Mario Incisa Della Rocchetta in the 1940s. It was from these vines in 1972, Marchese Mario Incisa along with his nephew, Marchese Piero Antinori, introduced the world to the first official Sassicaia (vintage 1968), a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. By 1978, Sassicaia took the top spot for Cabernets worldwide in a blind tasting for Decanter, followed by a 100-point rating from Robert Parker in 1985. A Bordeaux-mania of sorts ensued, leading to a significant increase in the plantings of the Cabernets and Merlot and the production of Super Tuscans throughout Tuscany.

Alberto Moretti Cuseri of Tenuta Sette Ponti and the family’s Orma winery in Tuscany believes the grape is revered in the coastal areas of Tuscany for its contributions of freshness and elegance to a blend, adding, “Cabernet Franc is able to integrate and complement its various nuances found around the world into a particularly balanced expression in Italy. Its aromatics are capable of offering intense and multifaceted aromas, and on the palate, it offers a natural sweetness and softness, which make the wines elegant and harmonious.”

“Here it finds a balance between ripeness and freshness,” says Carrara. “In our coastal climate it can maintain tension, aromatic precision, and elegance.”

And both Moretti Cuseri and Carrara agree that soils are key. Carrara credits the limestone-based soils of Argentiera’s Ventaglio vineyard for imparting an energy into the wine he hasn’t found elsewhere, while Moretii Cuseri concurs the grape requires careful soil selection. “Cabernet Franc thrives in well-draining soils which prevent waterlogging and promote balanced root development,” he says. “These conditions help the vine maintain controlled vigor and focus on the grape quality.”

Living la Dolce Franc

And certainly, growers and winemakers across Italy appear to agree that Cabernet Franc has found a suitable home in this Mediterranean country. Plantings of the variety have surged since the 1990s, with approximately 16,000 acres planted across the boot. Marco Sabellico, editor of Gambero Rosso’s Vini d’Italia guide, credits this to the grape’s resilience and its ability to respond to quality viticulture.

“Cabernet Franc has become a staple in many parts of Italy,” he says. “It is responding well to global warming and with careful viticulture, it can produce deep and elegant wines. Cabernet Sauvignon, and especially Merlot, which were very popular in the 1980s and 1990s, are having a hard time doing so.”

Through my own experiences in Italy in the past 10 years, I can also attest to Cabernet Franc’s rising prominence. As previously mentioned, it became widely used in Super Tuscans, particularly in the Bolgheri region of Tuscany. But it was also in these regions that I began noticing more Cabernet Franc-dominant blends as well as single-varietal bottlings, including the discovery of Le Macchiole’s Paleo Rosso. Easily among my favorite wines of all time, Paleo is widely recognized as the first 100% Cabernet Franc to be produced in Bolgheri since 2001.

And it’s not simply my predilection for the variety. Sabellico, editor for the 1,000+ page Vini d’Italia guide and one of 70 tasters for Gambero Rosso which evaluates more than 40,000 Italian wines each year, is also seeing Cabernet Franc on the rise.

“Today many Bolgheri wines are based on Franc, and its percentage increases in blends,” says Sabellico. “And, in the Northeast, it’s a widely consumed, inexpensive, single-varietal wine with a good reputation.”

Interestingly, the Bolgheri Consorzio officially recognized Cabernet Franc’s potential in 2011, permitting its use as a single-varietal DOC wine. Carrara sees this as a sign of a region’s maturity, when the terroir can truly sustain the grape’s identity.

“In our area, Cabernet Franc has been present for several decades, but for a long time it was seen as a supporting variety used for blends. Today, I see more single-varietal or Cabernet Franc-dominant wines,” he notes. “At Argentiera, we’ve been working with it in a more conscious and focused way for about 15 years, and we now understand its potential. We use it in all our red wines. In blends it brings freshness and verticality. But I believe it shines best in specific parcels, like Ventaglio, where the limestone allows it to express a very precise and distinctive identity.”

At Tenuta Sette Ponti’s Orma winery in Bolgheri, Cabernet Franc has also been present since the early 2000s, allowing for its adaptation to the territory. It has become an increasingly important part of their red wine production, not only for its varietal character, but also in response to new qualitative and market demands.

“There is a solid market for Cabernet Franc, supported by growing interest from both wine enthusiasts and professionals,” says Moretti Cuseri. “We use Cabernet Franc in three wines: Orma IGT Toscana and Passi di Orma Bolgheri Superiore, both blends, and Aola di Orma Bolgheri Superiore, vinified as a single-varietal where it can fully express its identity. Its versatility and elegant profile make it particularly well-suited to important international markets.”

This international interest isn’t limited to Tuscany, but also applicable in the Northeast. Le Monde’s Ruzzene notes, “Domestic consumption is certainly important, but a large share of the market for single-varietal Cabernet Franc from our region is represented by the United States, Canada, Japan, China, and Brazil.” He credits this to the wine’s “austere character without ever being harsh – always well-balanced, with firm yet pleasant tannins and its versatility with food is also particularly appealing.”

Franc’s Future Affairs

Indeed, as Sabellico notes, Cabernet Franc is common in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto, and Trentino-Alto Adige in the Northeast, but he’s seeing it in the south, in small but growing quantities in Sicily and even Puglia.

“When Cabernet Franc is the product of quality viticulture, it manages to be a complex and harmonious wine, never characterized by excessively vegetal nuances,” he says. “In Italy it has a refined yet Mediterranean character with an excellent image.”

The future of Cabernet Franc across Italy looks bright, thanks particularly to its potential in the vineyard under global warming, as well as for its growing recognition worldwide among wine professionals and enthusiasts, who increasingly revere its ability to distinctively convey Italian terroir. Ruzzene and Ponchia agree that while white wine remains the star of the Northeast, Cabernet Franc will retain a meaningful place in the market.

“It certainly won’t be the most widely sought-after wine at a time when white wines dominate consumption. However, for us, it is a unique wine that will always have its admirers and is not easy to replace,” says Ruzzene.

Rather, it may be Cabernet Franc that does the replacing suggests Ponchia. “It will likely become increasingly popular in Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and even Tuscany, as an alternative to Merlot, given the climate conditions we’ve been experiencing for years now.”

Carrara agrees that Cabernet Franc is responding well to the changing climatic conditions, offering a profile that is fresher and more elegant than the other Bordeaux varieties. He cautions, however, “We have to be careful. I do not believe Cabernet Franc is an alternative to Merlot, but I do strongly believe that, in the right terroirs, it can express itself with a unique lightness and elegance that few other varieties can achieve.”

Moretti Cuseri of Tenuta Sette Ponti adds, “The future of Cabernet Franc appears very promising, thanks to its ability to authentically interpret different terroirs. In the way it expresses itself, it may even come to be perceived as a more ‘indigenous’ variety, enhancing local identity and strengthening the bond between grape variety and terroir.”

Italy has clearly left its mark on my beloved Cabernet Franc. From the northeastern valleys and hills where it quietly thrived, to the sun-soaked Tuscan coasts where it shines in Super Tuscans and single-varietal bottlings, this grape has proven its adaptability, elegance, and charm. Its Italian expressions are simultaneously fresh, nuanced, and unmistakably Mediterranean, a reminder that a great love, like a great wine, is shaped by where it grows.

While the future of Cabernet Franc in Italy is still being written, one thing is certain: it will continue to captivate those who fall for it, the way I already have, for its complexity, its versatility, and yes, its undeniable Italian flair.

In the Spotlight

Wine Region(s) of the Week

Colli Berici DOC is located in the southernmost area of Vicenza in Northeast Italy and situated east of the Soave region. The region’s landscape is made up of forests, vineyards, and cultivated fields across a series of hills reaching up to 1,600-feet in an otherwise mostly flat area that cover roughly 64 square miles. The soils here are complex with remnants of both an ancient seabed and volcanic activity, featuring marine fossils, limestone rock, red clay soils, and basaltic soils of volcanic origin. The hills help to keep fog and late frosts at bay, while the influence of the Adriatic make it measurably drier and warmer. It’s this combination of low annual precipitation, warmth, and the free-draining nature of the soils which promote full phenolic ripeness and mineral complexity in the grapes. And as for those grapes, they are split evenly between red and white, with both styles as well as sparkling wines from the traditional method approved for production. That said, Colli Berici fashions itself as the “lands of great red wines,” laying claim to Cabernet Franc Colli Berici as the first to receive the DOC designation in Italy in 1973. Other red varieties include the native Tai Rosso (aka Grenache), Pinot Nero, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Carménère. The white wines of Colli Berici DOC include: Chardonnay, Garganega, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon, Tai, and Professor Luigi Manzoni’s Riesling–Pinot Bianco hybrid, Manzoni Bianco.

And since we’re on the topic of Cabernet Franc this week, let’s also take a look at the Bolgheri DOC.

Bolgheri is a relatively young, prestigious, and somewhat bifurcated DOC when it comes to red wines. Overall it’s an Italian appellation located in the Maremma on the Tuscan coast just to the south of Livorno, Italy. It was first established as a DOC in 1983, however, only for the production of white and rosé wines. At the time, Sassicaia and other Super Tuscans were produced as Vino da Tavola or Toscana IGT. It wasn’t until 1994, red wines with grapes cultivated in the area (including the international varieties) were allowed to be produced as blends under either the Bolgheri Rosso or Bolgheri Superiore DOC labels, with single-varietal expressions of the international varieties (including Cabernet Franc) permitted in 2011.

Bolgheri’s landscape is a natural amphitheater, with the Colline Metalifere hills to the east protecting vineyards from cold winds, and the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west providing moderating breezes. Thick forests cover the surrounding hillsides, maintaining and protecting the diverse ecosystem. The sea breezes help to keep the area cool year-round while aerating the vineyards and reducing humidity and disease pressure. The area’s elevations range from sea level to 1,250 feet, and the vineyards see a great deal of sun with around 23 inches of rain annually. Bolgheri’s terroir has both marine and alluvial origins with soils of sandy clay loam, very fine gravel, and marine fossils. Today, Bolgheri Rosso, Rosso Superiore or Rosé may be made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, or a blend combining one or more of these, and/or up to 50% of Syrah or Sangiovese. Other red grapes, including Petit Verdot, may be added up to 30%.

Fun fact: In 2013, Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC became an official appellation. The decision was made to separate Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC from Bolgheri DOC in the interest of protecting and defending the Sassicaia’s wine production. It’s expected this region will eventually earn DOCG status.

Wineries of the Week

Tenuta Argentiera sits at the southern tip of the Castagneto Carducci area of the Bolgheri DOC. Its vineyards lie within close proximity to the sea on some of the highest elevations of the region. The estate extends more than 375 acres with 210 planted to vine across four distinct plots, each set amidst a diverse ecosystem of Mediterranean scrub, trees, and plants. The soils at Argentiera vary by vineyard parcel but include red sands, Flysch rock (a sedimentary rock of alternating limestone, marl, sandstone, and shale), calcareous and clay-limestone. Of note, the Ventaglio vineyard is planted to 3.75 acres of Cabernet Franc fanned in a circular formation surrounding a majestic holm oak tree. Argentiera’s vineyards are tended daily to best understand the impact of the season. The wines are reflective of the team’s logic, talent, and instinct as well as of the land in each specific snapshot of time.

Le Monde Wine, which takes its name from the Germanic word “mundio” and refers to a land protection granted by the Austrian Emperor to various lands long ago, is found in the Friuli Grave appellation within Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The winery was founded in 1970 by the Pistioni family, and later acquired by the Maccan family in 2008. Le Monde’s 321 acres of vines are sheltered by the Alpine foothills in stony, pebble soils with calcareous-dolomitic alluvial debris referred to as Magredi. The foothills protect the valley from the icy winds from the north, while the nearby Adriatic Sea provides a maritime influence. Le Monde grows not only international varieties (including Cabernet Franc), but also native varieties such as Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, each of which is expressed with personality and balance.

Earlier this year, I introduced you to Tenuta Sette Ponti and the Moretti Cuseri family. This issue, we are diving into Orma Bolgheri (because Cabernet Franc of course!). Orma is located in the heart of the Bolgheri DOC appellation, with Ornellaia to the right and Sassicaia to the left. The three-generation Moretti Cuseri family acquired this Bolgheri estate in 2004, to continue making wines representative of their passion for Bordeaux blends, which began at the historic family estate, Tenuta Sette Ponti in Castiglion Fibocchi. At Orma, the Moretti Cuseri family grows 18.5 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, a small portion of which is bush-trained in soils of stone and clay between 260 and 400-feet elevation. From these carefully tended vines, the family makes five wines, including a single-varietal Cabernet Franc.

In the Spirit

I’m going to preface this week’s wine recommendations with a recognition that single-varietal Cabernet Franc from Italy, and particularly from Bolgheri, are not inexpensive. Winemaking typically makes use of oak (a significant expense), and the wines are generally produced in limited quantities. Additionally, in the case of Bolgheri, the wines are often both highly-rated and ageable making them coveted by collectors. As a result, it’s the classic case of lower supplies combined with higher demand that drives up the cost. So, if you’re new to the Italian experience of Cabernet Franc, its Northeastern expressions will be on the wallet. I find them generally flirtatiously satiable, albeit they can have a bit more of the green pepper note (which I do enjoy). The variety is more highly regarded as a “fine wine” in Tuscany, and indeed a few sit on my list of all-time favorites, making them worth the experience to me. I usually source these when I’m in Italy (it avoids the $ mark-ups), but sometimes I just can’t wait to taste it again and I will splurge. I was able to source most of these wines on Wine.com this week, where you can get $20/off orders of $150 or more this month with the code “HEART20” or use the code “BRANDNEW” for $30/off orders of $200 or more.

2019 Tenuta Sette Cieli Scipio

Italy looks good on my beloved Cab Franc, particularly from these vines at 1300 feet above sea level in Tuscany, surrounded by the lush woods of Monteverdi Marittimo between Bolgheri and Castagneto Carducci overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Freshness and firmness are completely interwoven from start to finish with red fruits, herbs, tobacco, and a mouthwatering hint of grilled poblano peppers. It’s hoard-worthy in the glass. In other words, you’ll be making sure you don’t get shorted on the pours. And if no one is looking, you might splash yourself an extra ounce or two. Don Giovanni. $133

2021 Le Macchiole Paleo

This one will set you back, in more ways than one. But omg, it’s worth it. A 100% Cabernet Franc from Italy’s Bolgheri region, this wine is ethereal and frankly could make me give up all other CF! It’s everything I love about the variety, but with a distinctly rustic Italian bravado. It’s scintillating with a killer mid-palate explosiveness. It’s herbaceous, spicy, and floral with bold, fresh dark fruits, peppers, olives, sage, graphite….I could go on, but I won’t because ultimately this wine leaves me speechless and without inhibition. Ziggy Stardust. $170

2021 Vigneti Le Monde Cabernet Franc

This dark-berried pour with its floral and earthy aromas is satisfyingly akin to a Loire-style Cab Franc. It’s silky, vibrant, and denotes sweet tannins with a decent finish. It’s surprisingly deep for the price point with dark fruits, coffee bean, herbs, and minerals on the palate and a touch of well-integrated bell pepper. This makes for an easy week night pour with an effortless post-work meal. It’s not one you’re going to overthink, but it is one you’ll enjoy more than you expected. At this price point, there’s no excuse not to get to know this Friulian Cab Franc. But be forewarned, it’s like a gateway - you’re just going to want more. Self-possessed. $17

2018 Tenuta di Arceno Arcanum

“Il Fauno” takes its name from the Roman god of nature overlooking these lush Tuscan vineyards, which in 2018 saw to it that the Cabernet Franc got to do its thing in the dog days that characterized the end of the growing season. A warm vintage meant that the Cab Franc hand-selected for this wine showcased intensity, dark fruits, herbs, and spice. It’s opulent without being ostentatious, has whisps of bell pepper, and a spritely buoyancy. Mythological. $100

2022 Tenuta di Arceno Arcanum

This vintage is a Bordeaux-blend leading with Merlot and Cabernet Franc, but it’s the Cab Sauv that takes center stage with dark fruits, spice, and dried herbs. This wine will benefit with some age or a decant, to soften the dusty, firm tannins. Pair it with a hearty meal and good conversation. Superb Tuscan. $38

2021 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia Bolgheri

This wine has a reputation. It’s scored 100-points at least four times (1985, 2016, 2021, and 2023 by various publications) and the 2015 was named Wine Spectator’s “Wine of the Year” in 2018. So, yes, I clamored amongst the thirsty throngs of tasters at the Gambero Rosso event in Rome to claim my splash of the ‘21 vintage. Seriously, one bottle is opened on the hour and dozens (if not a hundred) glasses are raised and pushed as far forward as possible to secure an ounce. Yes, I got one. (I’ve made my way to the stage of more than one concert pit. I can be scrappy when determined.) And as soon as that wine hit my glass, I scurried away to taste it in private. Was it the best wine I’ve ever tasted, not by a long-shot, but my god, it was outstanding and a moment I’ll remember. Intense, lively, well-structured but balanced, and exceedingly complex with florals, herbs, minerals, red fruits, and spice. It’s absolutely one to age, and I can imagine, might become one that would be among the best I ever tasted. Notorious C-A-B. $310

And below are a few additional Italian Cabernet Francs on my radar, but that I’ve yet to taste. If you do, let me know!

2020 Duemani Cabernet Franc - Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy - $161

2018 Planeta Didacus Cabernet Franc - Sicily, Italy - $124

2022 Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore Cab Franc - Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy - $42

2018 Argentiera Ventaglio - Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy - $445

While I’ve not tasted the 100% Cabernet Franc from Argentiera, I have previously reviewed their Bolgheri Superiore as well as their Vermentino:

2020 Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore DOC

A confluence of two separate harvests, with the first pick in mid-September and the next later in the month, resulted in a wine of two distinctive souls elegantly woven into an expressive and exquisitely balanced wine with the potential for some serious longevity. That said, if you’re like me and want what you want, a simple decant will release the full and complex range of aromas and flavors in time for dinner. Leading with dark red and black fruit flavors, followed by leather, spice, and a notable salinity that heightens the myriad of sensations this wine elicits, Argentiera is worth the splurge - and probably the wait too, if you can. Soulmate. $90

P.S. And don’t miss their 2022 Scenario, a 100% Vermentino that will astound. I used my Coravin to sample this wine, and ended up pulling the cork minutes later for more. This wine needed to be in my mouth. And it was over the course of two very satisfying nights.

In Their Words

While it’s always fun to dig into the vineyards and technical aspects of a wine, or in this case Cabernet Franc in Italy, I also love to know what foods to pair with them. This week, I figured who better to ask than those behind the wines themselves!

Cabernet Franc is exceedingly food friendly, what regional dishes do you find pair best with it?

Giovani Ponchia, director of the Consorzio Vini Colli Berici and Vicenza

“I love the elegance of Cabernet Franc, especially Riserva versions, and for the food pairing, Bigoli pasta with duck ragù, risotto with black truffles from the Berici Hills, and mature Asiago cheese.”

Giovanni Ruzzene, winemaker at Le Monde in Friuli

“Cabernet Franc’s versatility with food is particularly appealing. It pairs beautifully with first courses featuring meat-based sauces, as well as grilled meats, oven-roasted meats, and aged cheeses.”

Alberto Moretti Cuseri, of Tenuta Sette Ponti/Orma Bolgheri

“It pairs with richly structured dishes such as wild boar stew, braised meats, and noble game, which enhance its aromatic depth and tannic structure. It is also excellent with braised red meats and substantial pasta dishes, capable of supporting its elegance and intensity.”

Nicoló Carrara, winemaker at Tuscany’s Tenuta Argentiera

“Cabernet Franc has a unique floral component, with a level of finesse and elegance that is very rare. It can be intense without ever being heavy. It speaks quietly, but very deeply, and from my experience with typical Tuscan meat dishes, it works perfectly. Its freshness and balance make it an extremely gastronomic wine.”

In the Hopper

I’ll be diving back into Rioja with a side of Hungary and a dash of local biz before hitting the road next month to a new-to-me destination. It’s not specifically for wine, but you know I’ll find some. Thank you for reading, supporting, sharing, and recommending my words. It is always appreciated.

Sure there were camp fires, crafts, and fun (all of which I remember proudly showing off to my mom when she picked me up, as if none of the aforementioned things had happened). But what I privately, and still remember, is my grip on the ropes crossing the wooden suspension bridge of death to the cafeteria, and how all I would eat was canned corn and applesauce, partly because I was a picky eater and also because they forgot about the dairy allergy I had at the time. There was also that time my camp counselor lodged our canoe in muck on the opposite side of the “lake” from whose waters I always emerged covered in a stubborn algae. But perhaps the most upsetting to my seven-year-old self, was when I lost my underwear on the way to the shower. I’m not sure what was most upsetting - that my name was in them, or that I had no clean undergarments. And yes, much to my horror, someone did return them to me the next day. You would think after this experience, I would never have left home again.

But for every sleepaway camp-like experience (imagined and realized), there are also the inspiring moments of random chance, unexpected adventures, and new discoveries. One of my most memorable came about on that 2016 family sabbatical I mentioned last week. We were visiting a winery in Ronda - in the Andalucía region of southern Spain - that we chose both for its Roman ruins (to entertain/educate the kids) and the visits available in English. As we were leaving, we asked our host for a lunch recommendation in the area. She couldn’t think of much that would be open, but made some calls and found a small, family winery that was willing to offer some lunch with a tasting. The owner spoke English and was on his way back from running errands, but his (Spanish-speaking) wife would welcome us in the meantime.

We arrived to a small, rural property, where Zabel kindly greeted us and led us to a great room where a small table had been set. We were all clumsy not knowing how to communicate past formalities, so Zabel had us sit while she went back to the kitchen. I remember the four of us looking around to each other as we nervously realized we were sitting in their home, and my husband and I sharing a look that said, “Well, this is either going to be really special, or weirdly uncomfortable.” Miguel returned in short order and was equally as gracious as Zabel. He began pouring wines and sharing the story behind each label - one based on his wife’s nickname. Each of the wines was crafted as a small batch and from international varieties grown on the property. As we were tasting, Zabel would silently swoop in with dishes of food - tomatoes and onions, olives, bread, tortilla Española, Jamón, cheeses, olive oils…it was a never-ending train of delectables. After at least an hour of feasting (my kids were in heaven), Zabel began clearing dishes and we began preparing to make our purchases and head home. Then out came Zabel from the kitchen with an iron skillet filled with paella. A true, homemade Spanish paella with meats, seafood, and that enviable socarrat.

Miguel and Zabel left us to eat, but later returned for dessert. And conversation. Hours of conversation. Zabel and I spoke together in broken versions of the other’s native language, but primarily in the common language of motherhood. We shared stories about Chicago and they talked about life in rural Ronda. At one point, Zabel, who’s children were grown, embraced mine as any good grandmother would, taking the kids on an adventure to discover the native wildlife in the backyard. By the time we left, we were past our clumsy niceties and embracing as friends. We returned the next day to bring them a few gifts from Chicago, after which we departed again with hugs, but this time also tears (well at least from Zabel, my daughter, and I).

This unexpected afternoon came to define our time in Spain - much like the Rioja wines that were the first to spark my passion for this fermented grape juice - unforgettable and fulfilling. And so it’s been since. Even with the occasional hiccup or road block along the way. Spain connected. Connects. It’s why it stays in my skin.

Now, much like the roads throughout Spain, wine discovery can be a series of roundabouts. Sometimes you get it right, sometimes you end up circling, sometimes you go wrong, and sometimes you lose your underwear on the way to the shower. But every time, you move forward taking with you all that came before, so here are a few wines that came before, and in my opinion deserve a circle back.

In My Glass

2023 Valle Reale Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC

My favorite white of the year (so far)…and it’s not what I expected. I’m guessing it’s not one you’d expect either. I opened this wine to do a quick tasting for this review, and well, it went from a tasting pour, to our dinner pairing (with steak over tomato risotto). Maybe I was just in the mood for a white that wasn’t a “usual suspect,” but this 2023 Valle Reale Trebbiano d’Abruzzo surprised and delighted. I’m generally a fan of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, but this one is a standout for its notable nuance. Florals, fruits, herbs, a flinty minerality, and a long finish - it felt good, tasted good, and I didn’t want it to end. If you told me a Trebbiano d’Abruzzo would stick in my memory, I’d probably say “yeah, I like those wines.” But to have a specific producer and bottle stay with me for weeks, well, that tells you everything. Stock up. Like really, Get Greedy. $20

2019 Vinedos del Jorco Las Cabañuelas

I’ve been on something of a Madrid Garnacha kick in the last few months. Okay, maybe I’ve been on that kick since my first taste of one in 2020, but seriously, these Garnachas are too delish to miss. I mean take this one from Raúl Pérez, Spain’s wizard of Mencia wines from the Bierzo region, he’s been dabbling with Garnacha in Madrid, and damn if he isn’t wielding his magical powers yet again.

This particular wine is made with grapes grown organically and biodynamically (although not certified) in the sandy, granite, and slate soils typical of the Cebreros pocket of the Madrid DO. It’s fermented with native yeasts in concrete and then aged for six months in neutral French oak. It’s juicy and crunchy, but with more finesse than I typically associate with those descriptors. It’s fruit forward, floral, and of course loaded with that ethereal minerality that I crave from this region, but the real wizardry is its price point. Accio. $16

2024 Comm. G.B. Burlotto, Verduno Pelaverga

Let’s take a walk on the wild side of Piemonte. I’m not talking Nebbiolo, or even Arneis. This my daring darlings, is Pelaverga, a dark-skinned grape found in relatively small quantities in Piemonte, Italy, and primarily in the Verduno Pelaverga DOC. The wines are often described as sharing similarities with Pinot Noir - lighter body and color, with softer tannins, and hints of strawberries. Interestingly, I likened this bottle more to a Blaufränkisch owing to its prominent spicy, black peppery overtones, which I loved. It did, however, denote more red than black fruits, with some herbs, and minerals too, and it was light, bright, and most certainly quickly disappearing. Go wild. $32

Champagne Delamotte Brut Rosé

Bonus bubbles! It is Valentine’s tomorrow after all. Plus, it’s never a bad time for Champagne, especially from the 5th-oldest house in the region. Delamotte, founded in 1860, is located in the Côte des Blancs in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, which is the origin of this NV brut rosé. A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced from Grand Cru vineyards, this pink drink is made via the traditional saignée method. I’m a big fan of the depth and complexity a saignée rosé can bring. It’s bold, rich, zippy, supple, and brimming with red berries, tangerine, spice, and minerality, and it’s made for cozy evenings and canoodling. Be mine. $98

In the Spotlight

For context, Spain has around 70 wine Denominaciones de Origen (DO) and two Denominaciones de Origen Calificada (DOCa) and it’s been growing grapes for around 3,000 years. It’s also the third largest country in Europe, and it leads both France and Italy in area under vine with 2.4 million planted acres. That said, fewer vines are planted per acre to manage yields and water stress, so it actually comes in at third in overall wine production. And although difficult to state definitively, it has around 200 indigenous grape varieties, with 20 of the varieties (both native and international) making up 89% of the grapes grown and wines made. Spain is also the 2nd highest country in elevation in Europe with almost half covered by the Meseta, a large central plateau. It has one of the most diverse climates in Europe ranging from maritime and Mediterranean to continental. There are areas of heavy rainfall, deserts, places with extremely hot summers and cold winters, and those that maintain more moderate temperatures. And as you might imagine, with such geological and climatic diversity, there are quite a range of different soils too, running the gamut from metamorphic (shale, slate, and schist), to sedimentary (limestone, chalk, clay, sand, and alluvial), and volcanic (including granite).

In other words, there is a lot to dive into, but this week, we’re going to dive into its leading wine region and its first DOCa: Rioja.

Wine Region of the Week

Based along the Ebro River, 60 miles south of Bilboa and 210 miles north of Madrid, Rioja was one of Spain’s first wine producing regions dating back more than 3,000 years. It was also the first DO, established in 1925, and the first DOCa, since 1991. Rioja encompasses all or parts of three autonomous communities (think of them like provinces or states) including La Rioja, Navarra, and Basque Country. It is also broken down into three grape growing/wine producing sub-zones: Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta, and Rioja Oriental (formerly Rioja Baja). The region is bordered by mountains to the north and south which protect it from harsh weather, and it ranges between 985 to 2950 feet in elevation with soils classified into three types: calcareous clay, ferrous clay, and alluviums.

Across Rioja, 165,000+ acres are planted to vine, of which 91% are red grape varieties. There are 14 approved varieties in total with only five, surprisingly, being red. Tempranillo of course making up 88% of the plantings, but you’ll also find Garnacha Tinta, Mazuelo (Carignan), Graciano, and Maturana Tinta. For the white grapes, Viura (Macabeo) is predominant, but with white wine production on the rise, you’ll also find Verdejo, Tempranillo Blanco, Malvasia, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Garnacha Blanca, Maturano Blanca, and Turrentés (Albillo Mayor). Wine styles here include a diverse range of reds, rosés, whites, and even sparkling all of which are bottled under four wine classifications, which we’ll get into below.

In Context

Rioja Alta

Rioja Alta is one of the three sub-zones of Rioja. It sits in the westernmost portion of the region, with the Ebro River to the north. It is generally a cooler region influenced by the Atlantic with significant diurnal temperature swings and elevations between 1300 and 1950 feet. The soil here is limestone-clay, although less rich in limestone than in Rioja Alavesa, ferrous clay, and alluvial with iron throughout giving the soils a more orangish-reddish coloring. Rioja Alta has a long history of winemaking and viticulture going back into the 18th century in one of its key cities, Cenicero. The other key city in Rioja Alta is Haro, which is home to the Haro Oenological Station, established in 1892, and many renowned wineries including La Rioja Alta S.A., Bodega Muga, Lopez de Heredia, CVNE, Bodegas Bilbainas, Bodega Roda, and of course, Lopez de Heredia.

Rioja Alavesa

Rioja Alavesa sits in the western part of the Rioja region with the Ebro River to the south and the Sierra de Cantabria mountain range to the north. It is planted to 33,900 acres of vines and encompasses 18 municipalities. Laguardia, a medieval, fortified city of 1,500 inhabitants, is the key city of the region. Rioja Alavesa is defined by its rugged terrain and higher altitude. Its soils are a mix of clay, iron, limestone, and like the Rioja Alta zone, it sees more of a climatic influence from the Atlantic Ocean than Rioja Oriental. The wines from this area of Rioja are generally described as classic, elegant wines with higher acidity and fine tannins, and the ability to age extensively. Here are some producers to note: Marqués de Riscal, Bodegas Bideona, Sierra de Toloño, Bodegas Aiurri, Ysios, and Bodegas Amaren.

Rioja Oriental

Rioja Oriental (formerly Rioja Baja) is the largest and easternmost sub-zone of Rioja. It extends southeast from Logroño to the town of Alfaro and sits mostly south of the Ebro River, with a small portion to the north. Rioja Oriental has a more Mediterranean influenced climate than the other sub-zones with very dry and warm summers. The soils here are primarily silt and alluvial with ferrous clay and small amounts of chalk with most vineyards between 980 and 1300 feet. But despite its textbook reputation, Rioja Oriental also has vineyards going up to 2900 feet with some of the coldest climates in Rioja. For the grapes, Garnacha is widely planted here, but you’ll also find many white varieties as well as Tempranillo, Graciano, and Mazuelo among others. With around 36,000 acres of vines, Rioja Oriental is home to 94 wineries and several co-operatives. They are also responsible for about 40% of Rioja’s wines owing to the many grapes from the sub-region being used in blends from wineries across Rioja. Wineries of note include: Palacios Vinos de Finca, Finca Vistahermosa, Arizcuren, Carlos Mazo Gutiérrez, and Bodegas Queirón.

In the Spotlight Cont.

Winery of the Week

You’re likely familiar with the labels of Marques de Riscal, or perhaps it’s iconic hotel designed by the late Frank Gehry, but did you know it’s considered the first winery in Rioja and that it houses a bottle of every vintage since its first release in 1862?

Marqués de Riscal was founded in 1858 by D. Guillermo Hurtado de Amézaga and his son, Camilo Hurtado de Amézaga. Guillermo, holding the hereditary noble title of the Marqués de Riscal, was originally from Spain’s Basque Country. He was living in Bordeaux when he inherited land from his sister in Elciego, Spain within the Rioja Alavesa zone of what is today the Rioja DOCa. Prior to her passing, his sister, Marceliana Hurtado de Amezaga, had been making wine from the property’s vineyards - early drinking wines for local consumption as was the fashion. In fact, it was so on trend, that it was in oversupply and the local government was trying to resolve the problem by finding solutions to both aging and selling wine. It was for these reasons, Guillermo sent his son Camilo, a journalist with many diplomatic connections, to oversee a new winery and its operations. This was the beginning of Herederos del Marqués de Riscal.

Camilo relocated from Bordeaux to Elciego within the province of Álava where he hired Jean Pineau, an oenology expert from Bordeaux to demonstrate to the local government the Bordeaux methods for aging wines. It was during this time, Rioja began to adopt the French methods of both aging wines in 225-liter French barrels, as well as bottles stored horizontally. After working alongside Jean Pineau, Camilo not only incorporated these aging methods at Marqués de Riscal, he also brought in the first 9,000 French vines to Rioja, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which he had planted at the estate. As production ramped up, a new space for the aging wines was needed, and so Camilo built a new winery modeled after those in Bordeaux (which also included an onsite cooperage for making barrels). He then bottled his first vintage under the Marqués de Riscal label in 1862, making them the first wines ever bottled in Rioja.

Now, as you might imagine, these “aged” wines were vastly different (and more expensive) than the typical wines of the time. They quickly became favored by Spain’s noble class, and gained even more notoriety after becoming the first non-French wine to win a Diploma of Honor at the 1895 Bordeaux Exhibition. As such, Camilo not only began developing expansive distribution networks for exporting the wines, he also commissioned the use of gold mesh netting for their bottles to ensure authenticity and help prevent fraudulent imitations.

Today, the grapes used to make Marqués de Riscal’s Rioja DOCa wines are grown on 3,700 acres in Elciego and the neighboring villages within Rioja Alavesa including Leza, Laguardia, and Villabuena. The soils, from the various terraces above the Ebro River, are generally chalky clay, producing grapes with notable acidity and structure. The winery currently offers 12 labels of Rioja DOCa wines, including two rosés as well as wines across each of the classifications (Genérico to Gran Reserva). They also continue to export 60% of their wines, which are available in more than 110 countries.

Recommended wines: I’d highly recommend exploring the range, but if you’re looking for a few options, I’d say either the Reservas or Gran Reserva for a traditional taste of Rioja, and the Barón de Chirel for a more modern take on the classic style.

Fun fact: Marqués de Riscal also makes white wines from Rueda, where they were instrumental in establishing the renowned white wine D.O. in 1980.

In the Moment

During Rioja Camp, I had the opportunity to taste a vertical of Marqués de Riscal’s “Barón de Chirel” label, a more modern take on Rioja’s traditional wines, developed in 1986 in response to worldwide interest in fine wines from the region. This wine is crafted from vines aged between 80-110 years in Rioja Alavesa at elevations around 1500-feet, and is a blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon (the percentages are variable by vintage). The inclusion of Cabernet Sauvignon is a nod to the Médoc Reservas produced in the winery’s early days, but with today’s more expert winemaking. It’s also permitted in the DOCa as a special exception given the winery’s history in the region. The wines, which age in 225-liter French oak for around 20 months, are meant to showcase the identity of Marqués de Riscal as well as both the traditionality and modernity of Rioja.

The wines I had the privilege of tasting ranged from 2016 to 1995, and honestly, it’s difficult to find the words to describe this experience. The Barón de Chirel is a complex, structured wine which in its youth demonstrates a richness of fruit, well-integrated oak, sweet tannins, and the vibrancy characteristic of Rioja Alavesa. While it’s hard to resist opening the current release of these wines, patient cellaring brings incredible rewards - the goosebumpy, ethereal kind. As proven by this tasting, Barón de Chirel can age for decades, but honestly, anywhere from six to 10 years after the vintage is generally considered ideal. That said, my favorites from this tasting were undoubtedly the 2004, 1996, and 1995. The 1995 was admittedly past prime, but my goodness, when a wine is still that good after 30 years…whether it was the best or not, it was an absolute honor.

In the Room Where It Happened

Have you ever seen a bottle of wine opened with hot tongs that slice cleanly through the glass?

This process of opening a wine bottle can be referred to as thermal shock or Port-tonging. The practice began in Portugal in the 18th century as a way to open old Port bottles whose corks were too brittle for a regular corkscrew. Basically, specialized metal tongs, known as Tenaz in Portugal, are heated in a fire or with a torch until red-hot and then clamped around the neck of the bottle for between 20-30 seconds. A cold, wet cloth or brush, as seen in the video above, is then applied to the heated area as soon as the tongs are removed. That rapid temperature change breaks the glass cleanly at the site and keeps the cork from coming into contact with the wine.

In Practice

Since Rioja wines, and Ribera del Duero wines as pictured below, are known to age for decades, it’s not uncommon to come across back vintages, so here’s something to keep in mind should you be considering making a purchase: ullage. As wine ages in bottle, small amounts are lost to evaporation through the cork, leaving an increasing amount of space between the wine and the cork. This gap, or fill level, is known as ullage. Note the red line drawn on the photo below.

While ullage is a natural occurrence, a low ullage can indicate seepage and oxidation of the wine. In general, for wines in Bordeaux-shaped bottles (such as those typically used in Rioja), a fill line around the base of or into the neck of the bottle is considered ideal at any age. A wine level at the very top of the shoulder of the bottle is considered excellent for wines around 20 years old, while levels slightly lower at the top of the shoulder are normal for wines 15 years and older, but are considered excellent for those 35 years and older. But not to fear, even a mid-shoulder fill level for bottles 40 years and older is considered normal. Of course, there’s always risk when acquiring back vintages, especially when the provenance and storage of the bottle is unknown. That said, it can also be a lot of fun, and occasionally even inducing of one of those goosebump, pinch-me moments.

In Brief (ish)

The amount of quality control that goes into every bottle of Rioja DOCa wine is both impressive and astounding, as well as overseen by a regional Control Board. This is not a region that cuts corners, and it’s not one that is going to put its brand on a label unless the provenance and quality are tested and proven.

The Rioja DO was established in 1925 and became Spain’s first DOCa in 1991. It remains one of only two in the country (Priorat being the other). To become a DOCa a region must have maintained DO status for a minimum of 10 years and it must undergo annual sensory tests on the wines as well as adhere to strict regulations as established by the regional Control Board. The Rioja DOCa encompasses 144 municipalities across La Rioja, Navarra, and Basque Country. To use the Rioja DOCa name, all vineyards must be registered with the Control Board and maintain planting density between 2,850 to 10,000 vines per hectare. Only the 14 approved grape varieties are permitted for use (excepting rare and special circumstances like in the case of Cabernet Sauvignon at Marqués de Riscal). The Control Board also dictates the number of buds permitted per vine - Garnacha Tinta and Blanca are allowed 14 buds, the other grape varieties are allowed 12 max - as well as the number of kilograms per hectare, 6,500kg/ha for red grapes and 9,000 kg/ha for white grapes.

In addition to vineyard planting and vine management regulations, the Control Board also produces reports to help growers determine the timing of harvest. Each grower is required to notify the Control Board within 48-hours of a pick to be included in the DOCa, and must present their Grape Growers Card to the Control Board at the pick. The Grape Growers Card is a smart card which records weights, quality, potential alcohol levels, and tracks the transport of the grapes from vineyard to the winery. There are a number of additional requirements and regulations at this stage and prior to which an affidavit must be submitted post-harvest by November 30th. But that name assurance is not done yet, at the winery all wine movement is tracked electronically to ensure authenticity and provenance. Additionally, to use the Rioja DOCa label, samples of each wine to be included must be sent to the Control Board for testing between December 1st and February 28th. Five tasters, overseen by the Control Board, assess the wine’s alcohol, acidities, sulfur dioxide levels, sugar, density, dry extract, color index, and polyphenol index. The tasters then determine if the wine is Rioja DOCa quality as well as then publish the Official Vintage Rating for the region overall.

Like I said, there are no corners cut in assuring the quality behind wines labeled with Rioja DOCa, which must also include the wine’s classification and the optional classification of origin on each label - which provides us with information on exactly what’s in the bottle. Here are the wine classifications to know and what they mean:

Guarantee of Origin/Genérico - guarantees origin and vintage (green label)

Crianza - must see 12 months in barrel and can only be released two years after harvest (red label)

Reserva - need a minimum of 12 months in barrel, six months in bottle and 36 months prior to release (garnet label)

Gran Reserva - must go for 24 months in oak, 24 months in bottle, with a minimum of 60 months prior to release (blue label)

As for those optional classifications of origin, there are three permitted for use:

Viñedo Singular - single vineyard or parcel with a minimum vine age of 35 years and must be Rioja DOCa accredited for 10 years

Viños de Pueblo - all grapes are exclusive to one village

and Vinos de Zona - the grapes are exclusively from one of Rioja’s 3 zones.

It may seem like a lot to take in at first, but really once you look at a label or two it becomes clear. And really the most important thing to remember is:
If it says Rioja DOCa, it’s going to be a quality wine. Now whether it suits your palate is another question, but they most certainly do right by me.

In the Know

Rioja sells around 328 million bottles of wine globally each year - in around 136 countries! It’s largest markets are the UK, the U.S., Netherlands, and Germany.

Rioja is home to 528 wineries, 13,078 growers, and over 1.3 million barrels. Of the 528 wineries, 214 of them are open to the public and see nearly one million visitors each year (36% of which are international visitors).

In the Hopper

Well, that’s a lot to digest this week. Take your time, reread it, save it for future reference, and of course share it with anyone you think might find it useful or just enjoy reading it. In the next issue, believe it or not, there will be even more Rioja! I’m also working on a special feature article about Cab Franc you won’t want to miss. As always, thank you for reading, sharing, and supporting my work, and if you have any questions or there are any topics you’d love to know more about, I’m only a message away. Cheers and ciao!

P.S. You can find a few of my recommended Rioja wines available in my most recent wine guide

2025 Wine Guide

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I’m going to be honest, I did not want to write today. Saturday, I woke up and opened Instagram to draft my morning post as is my near daily routine. The posts may be about something weeks ago, but the writing always occurs the day of. It’s my writing practice. But as my eyes adjusted to the light of the screen, I wasn’t greeted by my Down Under friends’ humorous wine posts, or even the East Coast or early morning posters, instead I watched a man, Alex Pretti, executed on an American city street by the U.S. government. I watched him go from alive to dead, his body instantly motionless. That was the first thing my eyes saw and my ears heard on a Saturday morning. I’m not okay. And frankly, I’m at peace with my pain. In fact, I am grateful that I’m not desensitized to violence or atrocities, or caught up in a mentality that can justify it. Nor do I ever want to be. It’s not okay. Everyone has a name.

I did not write Saturday. Or Sunday. I had no words left and nothing of value to share - at least not that seemed of meaning in relation to the life I watched end. I thought. I cried. I cursed. I donated. But I also thought about things pertaining to this space - wine, wine travel, and the words I share. I struggled with guilt, emptiness, and incredulity: How can I write? What do I write? Does it even matter where I traveled or what I thought about this wine right now (or ever)? Is writing about it frivolous and nonsensical given the seriousness of these obvious watershed moments? Will it make me appear silent or complicit? And if I do decide to write, will my passion be dimmed, my voice hollow, the results lackluster and devoid of emotion? I cursed some more. And then I came to a conclusion:

This space, while framed by wine and wine travel, holds stories of community, connection, and humanity. Wine fosters connections, inspires moments, breaks down barriers, and brings people to a common and shared table. And, I do strongly believe that in times such as these, it is not only okay, but necessary, to have something hopeful and revelatory to embrace, and certainly to share with others. For me, honoring such things means I will never succumb to an existence of desensitization. It means I’m going to keep making connections - around the world and at home. I’m going to sit at tables engrossed in conversations and laughter with wine in my glass. I’m going to continue learning, discovering new histories, appreciating different cultures, and reveling in a world full of flavor. I’m going marvel at the selfless generosity of others and spread it in return. I’m going to wonder, wander, and delight in the richness wine brings to my life in so many different forms and unexpected places. And hopefully, some of these wines or words will also inspire tiny moments of joy for you, lead to new connections, or maybe even to grand marvelous adventures in your life. I hope so.

Now, will I sit passively and turn a blind eye on world events, absolutely not. I know which side of history I plan to be on - and I will be there with glasses in hand, for me and for you. Each of you. Everyone has a name.

Now, let’s talk about what you might find in said glasses.

In My Glass

NV Dark Rock Sparkling Wine Brut

USA born and raised, this traditional method bubbly brings Crémant-level quality at Crémant-level pricing. That might make this Dark Rock a dark horse. Seriously though, this was a clean, zesty, vibrant sparkling wine from Washington state’s basalt soils, a four-generation farming family, and women-winemakers. It made for a satisfying aperitif enjoyed as equally in the bath with Olivia Dean piping through my speaker and book in my hand, as it was with spicy shrimp tacos and Netflix’s Nobody Wants This from my couch. See, I do rest sometimes! And I do love a good value. Streaming. $20

2023 Vina Meín “Meín Castes Brancas”

I’ve raved here before about Alma Carraovejas’ Ossian whites (more than once) as well as their enigmatic Emilio Rojo, but this Spanish white from Ribeiro deserves its moment in the sun as well. A field blend of native white grapes, this dry white is a cross-rhythm of verve and silk for tension-laden bursts of flavor and sensation. It’s youthful, generous - a cornucopia of fruit seasoned with marine salinity - and it will be as refreshing in warmer temps as it is satiating in winter months. Acid Jazz. $30

2022 Domaine Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage

The right Syrah from the Northern Rhône, will induce in me an animalistic desire. It’s not unlike the guttural craving I get at the first hint of truffle. And this Syrah, it was oh-so right: aromatic AF, crunchy, savory, and utterly tantalizing. Violets and dark woodsy berries, are overlayed with savory spices, herbs, and olives that reveal in layer upon layer of mouth-watering goodness. If pure, fruity, purply, easy-drinking Syrah is your thing, this is not for you. But if you’re into the dirty, earthy, brooding, slow-play style of Syrah… Foreplay. $36

In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

I first tried wines from the Texas Hill Country AVA seven years ago. My notes about these 2016 and 2017 Tempranillos recount varietal typicity and personal enjoyment, but not enough that I pursued any further exploration. A Texas Mourvèdre made it’s way to my glass not long after that, but again, it lent more novelty than intrigue. Fast forward to the summer of 2025, and I had the opportunity - while in China of all places - to try a Texas Malbec. I was more impressed, even surprised by this wine, so much so, it inspired me enough to dip a toe into some Texas Hill Country AVA wines while in Austin last week.

Now, before I delve into one of the largest AVAs in the country, let me start by answering a question some of you may be asking: Texas makes wine? Why yes, they sure do, to the tune of an economic impact around $24.4 billion! As someone that knew Texas was in the wine game (as are all 50 states at this point), what I did not know was that there are a total of eight AVAs across the state producing more than 70 grape varieties across 14,043 acres of vines and 617 wineries. Everything is bigger in Texas, well, at least bigger than I thought.

As for the Texas Hill Country AVA, it was founded in 1991 and sits in central Texas at the western edge of Austin. And it is big, encompassing a total of 9.6 million acres with 2,000 of them planted to vine. The region includes two distinctive, nested-AVAs: the 3,200-acre Bell Mountain AVA (the first established AVA in the state in 1986) and Fredericksburg (est. 1988), which sits at 70,400 acres; although there are local rumblings that more sub-division is on the horizon. The topography features low hills and deep canyons with elevations ranging between 425 to 2,550 feet, and notable features including the Llano Uplift, Enchanted Rock, the Edwards Plateau, and the Balcones Fault. The soils here are predominately comprised of limestone, but there are outcroppings of clay, sandy loam, granite rock, and alluvial deposits.

Texas Hill Country is largely considered a continental climate with varied humid, sub-tropical areas and is influenced both by the Gulf of Mexico as well as the Mexican Chihuahua Desert. Due to its hilly landscape and the winds from the desert, there is a marked diurnal temperature variation, particularly in the winter months. Rainfall is usually between 24 to 27 inches annually, and can fall throughout the year. Challenges faced in the vineyards of Texas Hill Country are many and include hail, spring frost, humidity, and pests, but that hasn’t stopped the more than 100 wineries from establishing within the vast AVA. As for what they’re working with, the overall region tends to favor Mediterranean grapes that thrive in arid conditions including Spanish, Rhône, and Italian varieties like Tempranillo, Tannat, Mourvèdre, Sangiovese, and Montepuliciano among the reds, as well as Viognier, Vermentino, Chardonnay, Muscat, and Albariño for the whites. Given the unique terroir of Bell Mountain and Fredericksburg, these nested AVAs are home to more Bordeaux style reds including Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

On a personal note, after this last visit to Austin and as a long time champion of developing and underrated wine regions, I’m curious to go back and dig in the actual dirt of this captivating AVA.

Winery of the Week

The Austin Winery is self-proclaimed the first and only grape-to-glass winery within the city limits of Austin (and may in fact be based on my brief research and limited knowledge of Austin). Founded by Ross McLauchlan, Cooper Anderson (winemaker - pictured on the left), and Matt Smith in 2013, the winery established partnerships with small, family-owned vineyards around Texas. The team stays involved at the vineyard throughout the growing season and keeps intervention within the cellar to a minimum, fermenting with native yeasts and minimal SO2 (sulfur dioxide) added only at bottling. The Austin Winery produces around 5,000 cases of wine, all from Texas vineyards, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre, Sangiovese, and an aromatic white blend of Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne.

The winery sits within the “natural” wine space owing to its minimal interventions and hands-off winemaking, but as someone that generally approaches the category with apprehension, I have to say, these wines demonstrated the winemakers’ talent for showcasing vintage, terroir, and grape. I tasted four wines and each was distinctive, complex, structurally sound, and thankfully devoid of any volatile acidity or unfavorable “mousey” characteristics often associated with “natty” wines. They were flavorful and nuanced with fresh fruits, spice, and herbs as well as minerality. There was no hint of over-extracted oak or over-ripe jammy characteristics. The wines, although not high in acidity, were juicy and balanced with ABVs hovering between 13 to 14%. I found them incredibly drinkable and downright enjoyable. I wouldn’t describe the wines as refined or demonstrating finesse, but I can say I bought several and look forward to drinking them again. The wines had character, were balanced, and honestly, they just tasted good.

Recommended picks: Ocho Blanco, Mourvèdre 2024, and Work Horse

In Living Color

On the chance you find yourself in Austin, Texas for a few days, here are a few of my recommended dining and drinking establishments (in addition to the aforementioned Austin Winery):

Uchi - An upscale, but comfortable sushi house that was packed and buzzing with energy on a Tuesday night. The service was warm, welcoming, and just the right amount of attentive. The dishes from James Beard Award‑winning Chef Tyson Cole were fresh, flavorful, and some of the best, melt-in-your-mouth sushi I’ve had in years. They offer omakase, a variation of omakase based on your table’s interests, and a la carte. It’s not inexpensive, but it is worth every penny. The wine list isn’t the best I’ve ever seen, but it was the best I personally came across in Austin. I tasted my way around Albariño, Assyrtiko, Chablis, and Champagne, and would happily do it again.

Fish Shop - Yes, more fish. I do appreciate meats of all types, immensely, and I did devour some Texas BBQ while in town. It’s a must for which there’s an endless stream of recommendations out there. But I’m generally a one and done gal for the category, so after licking my fingers clean at Black’s BBQ, it was back to lighter fare for me. The Fish Shop was my last meal on this adventure, and also my most memorable. It’s a European-style neighborhood joint with both quaint table and counter service. The fresh seafood dishes can be served up with a cocktail, beer, or wine. I chose the counter and a Vermentino from Sardinia with the Texas oysters, mussels, and the most unforgettable boquerones I’ve ever experienced. But if you are still feeling carnivorous, they do offer a wagyu quarter pounder served with a steak knife stuck through center and all the cheesy, saucy drippings spilling down the sides. If I wasn’t immediately hopping on a plane…

The Powder Room - This hidden gem is a prohibition-era speakeasy fever dream draped in velvet, brass, and mahogany, overseen by the life-size leopard atop the bar. It’s The Shining meets the Florida Keys. The entrance isn’t obvious and may leave you scratching your head or cursing Google, but it’s all part of the adventure. Now, there’s a few things to note: 1) They take your phone. This is a no-phone, no photo zone, and 2) if you’re looking for more of a laid-back lounge vibe, hit this spot Sunday through Wednesday. It’s more of a bumping night-club Thursday through Saturday. The Garden Party gin-based cocktail was my first drink of choice, but the Mezcal Effect won drink-of-the-night (if not the whole trip). I’m still craving those mezcal-laced spicy, citrus gummy bears!

Texas French Bread - The original location burned down in a fire in 2021, but they’ve opened a “garden” location behind the brick and mortar address where they serve up fresh breads, pastries, sweets, and the most delicious rosemary latte. It was the perfect place to refuel and start the day. (P.S. They offer an educator discount if there are any teachers in your group.)

The Elephant Room - Located in the basement of a historic downtown Austin building, The Elephant Room has been cranking out live jazz every night of the week since 1991. It’s dark, divey, and believe it or not has decent wines on the list! Granted, not a lot of them, but I’ll take a Barbaresco any day of the week - especially one imported by Kermit Lynch. Honestly though, this place is far more about the music than the drinks, and Monday nights are student night. Inspiring artists of all ages - truly, one kid was 15! - add their name to the clipboard, from which they’re called up to jump in for both specific sets and improvisational jam sessions.

Paperboy - Breakfast, lunch, coffee, and cocktails. What more can you ask for - especially after a late night at the Powder Room. The inventive menu takes familiar brunch dishes and flips them completely on their head with creative flavor combinations, cooking techniques, and style. If it sounds fancy, it’s because it kind of is, but not to worry, it’s still served up in complete diner-style with brusque service and ginormous portions.

The Vintage Bookstore & Wine Bar - This spot bills itself as Austin’s living room, and for good reason - it’s located in a historic Austin home where each space is filled with books and decorated as Victorian-era sitting rooms. Both new and used books are available for browsing or buying, while the bar offers coffee, tea, a variety of wines, and mocktails. It is a 21-and-up spot, but does offer a patio to bring your furry friends. As for the rotating wine list, I have two words pertaining to my visit: Bernard Baudry.

In the Spirit

The Chinese Lunar New Year (the year of the Horse in case you’re curious) begins on February 17th this year with celebrations spanning 16 days; although the public holiday lasts only until February 23rd. And since I had the opportunity to visit China, and explore its Ningxia wine region last year (fittingly in my sign’s year of the Snake), I thought it would be fun to share a Chinese wine available here in the states (and that doesn’t cost a fortune).

As a refresher, Ningxia is situated in inland north-western China at the eastern foothills of the Helan Mountains between the 37th and 39th parallels, 375 miles northwest of Beijing, with a population of 7.2 million people. The region encompasses Shizuishan City, Yinchuan City, Qingtongxia City, and Honsipu. The Helan Mountains, which span 124 miles separate the autonomous regions of Ningxia and Inner Mongolia. Shielded by the mountains to the west and bordered by the Yellow River to the east, Ningxia is home to one third of China’s vineyards with 96,000 acres of once barren desert planted lushly and successfully to vine. The region lies between 3,600 to 4,800 feet in elevation with calcareous, gravelly, and sandy soils. The climate is continental with around 3,000 hours of sunshine and only about 11 inches of rainfall annually. The hot summers are somewhat moderated by the cool northerly wind that flows through the Yinba road, a natural gap in the Helan Mountains. However, the arid conditions necessitate the use of the Yellow River for irrigating the region’s vineyards. Grapes planted here include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Marselan, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Viognier, among many other vinifera, hybrid, and indigineous varieties. There are currently 228 wineries producing around 138 million bottles of wine, and one of those producers is: Longyu Estate/Chateau Changyu Moser XV.

Chateau Changyu Moser XV (Longyu Estate in China) is a partnership between Zhang Yu Wine Company, the first Chinese winery established in 1892, and the Austrian Moser winemaking family. Longyu Estate was established in Ningxia in 2013 and sits within the Helan Mountain wine region at an elevation of 3,600 feet. Lenz M. Moser V is the chief winemaker for Chateau Changyu Moser XV and represents the 15th generation of his Austrian winemaking family. He works alongside his Chinese winemaking counterpart, Jiang Wenguang. The winery produces several wines including two white wines of Cabernet Sauvignon (one oaked, one not), and several reds of Cabernet Sauvignon. I previously tried the Moser Family Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc de Noir which is the oaked version, but can currently only find the unoaked Helan Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc de Noir available stateside. I’ve linked it below, which if you’re curious about a Chinese wine is available for $26.

Chateau Changyu Moser XV Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc de Noir

First, let’s clear up any confusion. This is a still wine. While the term “Blanc de Noir” typically is found on sparkling wines, here it simply refers to the literal translation, white from black. In this instance, it means this is a white wine derived from the black/red grape of Cabernet Sauvignon. Each version - the oaked and unoaked - come in at 14.5% ABV. They are both Cab Sauv which have been directly pressed without skin contact to fermentation vessels. In the case of the Moser Family wine, it is aged in French oak for one year. The Helan Mountain label, ages only in stainless steel. While I cannot attest to the unoaked version, the oaked white Cab was rounded and intensely flavored with notes of peaches and cream. It was very fruit-forward with a luscious mouthfeel and a lingering finish. I’m guessing the unoaked version will be brighter with a less viscous character - perhaps you can let me know! At any rate, what I can say, is that when I was in China, I tended to favor the sparkling wines and the reds, but this white demonstrates more refinement than in some of the other labels I tried. Did it blow me out of the water, not really, but is it interesting, absolutely. It’s rare to find Chinese wines in the US market, let alone one under $30. So if you’re curious, grab one to ring in the year of the Horse next month!

In the News

Washington’s Chateau Ste. Michelle is a familiar label across the country and in many homes. I personally have a few friends that consider it their “house wine.” Well, last year, Ste. Michelle returned to local private ownership for the first time in 50 years through an acquisition by the Wyckoff family of Eastern Washington. Under the new ownership, the winery has plans to release new wines, guest experiences, and most notably for those of you that regularly swipe these wines off the shelf, new labels. So, beginning early this year, look for newly stylized labels with an updated logo, fresh fonts, and different foil colors.

In the Know

The modern Texas wine industry may only be around 50 years in the making, but the state’s history with the vine and wine date back to 1659 when Spanish missionaries planted some of the USA’s first vitis vinifera vines along the Rio Grande. The state’s oldest winery, Val Verde Winery in Del Rio, dates back to 1883, and remains operational today having survived prohibition owing to their sacramental wine production.

In the Hopper

Who’s ready for Rioja? Brace yourselves…or rather, just grab a glass and get ready to dig deep in this vast region of deliciousness.

Now, let’s get to it.

In Retrospect

2025 by the Numbers:

33 newsletters and 33 regional spotlights

170 wines reviewed from 13 countries

Most reviewed varietal: Cabernet Franc (no shocker) with Tempranillo behind by one

Most reviewed country: Italy and France are tied at first with Spain and the US tied for second

Most reviewed style: Red wine

Top Three Newsletters for 2025:

Half Empty Tables for Two

Drink Up Grinches! (And Whos, Too!) - This issue is home to my 2025 Wine Guide, which you can still download free for a limited time. It’s got timely and evergreen picks for your whole year based entirely on my travels and personal recos.

By Any Other Name

In Summation

These are the wines that moved and shaped me most in 2025, in no particular order (outside of the top spots).

My Top 10 Reds of 2025:

2020 Ronco della Simia from Ronchi di Castelluccio

2023 Artuke Rioja

2009 Mas de Daumas Gassac

2018 Clos Florentin from Domaine Jean-Louis Chave

2015 Goodfellow Pinto Noir Heritage No. 4

2021 La Cuesta de los Liebres from Pago de Carraovejas

1996 Condado de Haza from Familia Fernandez

2013 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino

1996 Bernard Baudry Clos Boissee

2001 Antonelli Montefalco Sagrantino

My Top 10 Whites of 2025:

2022 Ossian and Capitel from Ossian Vides y Vinos

(Ossian held this slot in 2024 as well)

2017 Emilio Rojo Ribeiro

2023 Walter Scott Novo Chardonnay

2023 Approachment Chardonnay

2023 Belondrade y Lurton

2022 Meursault Saint-Christophe from Domaine de Montille

2022 Bodegas Marañones Picarana

1973 Chateau Yquiem

2023 Morgen Long Willamette Valley Chardonnay

2022 Farfarello Brix Romagna Albana from Poggio della Dogana

My Top 10 Sparking Wines of 2025:

1992 Champagne Goutorbe

Ulysse Collin Les Maillons

2019 Adrien Dhondt ‘Chetillons de Haut’ Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut

Champagne Jacquesson 744

2017 Lia by Nivarios Rioja Reserva

Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Itération n°24

Maison Jussiaume 2020 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs

Arabilis 2020 Columbia Gorge Extra Brut Sparkling Wine

NV Champagne Francis Orban

2019 JM Sélèque Soliste Meunier Rosé

In My Glass

2024 Chateau de Sancerre Passe Avant le Meilleur

I forgot how much I love Sancerre. I mean, I didn’t really forget, but it had been a while and this bottle was a perfectly timed reminder. It’s not often I order wine at sushi restaurants - at least not the strip-mall variety that I frequent. Thankfully, this crisp, citrusy acquisition didn’t disappoint. There were orchard fruits too. And minerality. But mostly, I just loved how it heightened the flavors of the fresh sashimi and creatively comprised rolls. It didn’t overpower and wasn’t overshadowed. And that it was enjoyed al fresco after weeks of rain, well, that was a definitive bonus. Gentle reminder. $35

2024 Giant Steps Circle of Fifths Chardonnay

Is Chardonnay my favorite white grape variety? Yes, but… As a former card-carrying ABC-club member (Anything But Chardonnay), I am particular. Over-oaked, butter bombs are not my thing. And those that are slightly adjacent aren’t my go-to either. I much prefer a higher acid, softly oaked, and mineral delivering style. It’s why Oregon Chards are often in my wheelhouse (and White Burgs when I have the budget). Chablis too - once upon a time it saved the variety for me. So, how did this Aussie Chard fare? Well. Very, very well. It checked all my boxes and yet was distinctively of its own place. It was flinty, textural, mouth-watering with citrus, orchard, and tropical fruits upheld by subtle, well-integrated, supporting-character style of oak. I don’t have a lot of experience with Chard from down under, but I gotta say, so far they have a winning record. A ripper. $50

2020 Bodegas Muriel Vino de Elciego Reserva

Shit is getting expensive out there and the tariffs on our fave international wines aren’t exactly helping the cause. Thankfully, Spanish wines often punch far above their price points, making them an exceptional value in today’s winescape. In fact, they’re still going to come in less costly than, or competitive with, domestic wines of equal (and even greater) value making this the perfect time to start exploring wines from across España. So, if you’re looking for a classicly oaky, fruity, balanced and character-driven Rioja Reserva, this is a solid and food-friendly example. The label was unfamiliar to me - even after November’s 200+ Rioja wines - but it’s now going to be one I get very familiar with. It will most certainly find its way to my glass again. And again after that. Past the talking stage. $22

Serena Mode 00

Last January I promised to give a shout-out to the non-alc wines that I’d actually put in my glass. My opinion still stands that they aren’t technically wine. By definition, wine is grape juice that has been fermented - and fermented things contain alcohol. That said, this Sauv Blanc was fermented as a traditional wine after which it was dealcoholized. In other words, for NA wine, it’s about as winey as it gets. And while so far, I’m still more partial to the sparkling NA variety as the bubbles help with the structure, this Sauv B from Miguel Torres in Chile gets a passing grade from me. I poured a glass while I was cooking one night and it did give me that wine kind of feeling. The aromas were characteristic of the variety - grapefruit in particular. It was fruity with notable acidity and the finish, although short was pleasant. You won’t mistake it as wine, but it did scratch a wine itch, and I did pour a second glass. I would still choose water if I wasn’t drinking wine, but for those looking for a wine-like NA alternative, this gets a firm nod and a green light. $13

(This is also a fab price point for dealcoholized wines so I’d also say for the category it’s a solid quality price ratio (QPR) wine.)

In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

In 2019, Paso Robles, California was the first California wine region I visited in a wine writer capacity. At the time I was not only impressed by the wine, but also the community, the diversity of activities available, and the ease of travel. I passed through the area again on our family holiday a few weeks ago, and it became clear that this is a region I need to return to for further, and updated, research and recos. Until then, here’s a bit of Paso Robles 101 to pique your curiosity.

Paso Robles is a large and diverse wine appellation with 11 distinctive sub-AVAs. It is located just inland of the Santa Lucia coastal mountains in San Luis Obispo County on California’s Central Coast, and it offers more than 40,000 acres of vineyards across the 614,000-acre AVA, over 60 grape varieties, and 200+ tasting rooms. Although situated inland from the coast, the Paso Robles AVA still benefits from maritime influences of the Pacific Ocean and it has one of the greatest day-to-night temperature swings in California. Additionally, the altitudes (from 700 to 2,000 feet), mesoclimates, and the 30+ types of soils lend to a long growing season with advantageous conditions for growing a variety of vines that produce a range of expressive and terroir-driven wines. As for the wines, the region is best known for both its Cabernet Sauvignon and GSMs (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdres), but you’ll also find reds and whites from Spanish to Italian varieties, and Bordeaux to Rhône blends, as well as the region’s heritage Zinfandel.

Winery of the Week

Since we’re on the subject, let’s dive into Paso Robles’ Pelletiere Estate founded by a kindred spirit of mine, Janis Pelletiere. Janis grew up in the Chicago area, founded her own business, and eventually found her calling in wine (relatable). When Janis was 21 years old, she left the Midwest for California and established her own Marketing business. After a successful 30-year run, she again yearned to push her boundaries, but this time in wine. Janis moved to Paso Robles where she found a historic 12-acre property to support her desire to make Italian wines. Pelletiere Estate was named in honor of Janis’ father, and is today led by both Janis and her daughter, Morgan Stepp. Together, this feisty female duo grow grape varieties including Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Montepulciano, Lagrein, Zinfandel, and Viognier, which were planted between 1993 and 1996. The Pelletiere vineyards are farmed sustainably and feature south-facing slopes and rocky limestone soils, which benefit from cool coastal breezes and the significant diurnal temperature fluctuations within the region. They produce around 10 wine labels including single-varietal and blended Italian red wines (including an Aglianico I obviously need to try), a Viognier, and an off-label Chardonnay, “Dorothy Jean Chardonnay,” from Santa Maria Valley. And as a final, fun fact, the Pelletiere Estate dates back to the 1890s with the original onsite farmhouse available as a vacation rental.

Recommended wines: Lagrein, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese Reserva, and the Dorothy Jean Chardonnay

In the News

It’s not uncommon for winemakers to transition from one winery to another - especially when it’s not their own brand. As such, this isn’t a topic I typically cover, but this job change seemed relevant as it is a winemaker I’ve previously described as one of Willamette Valley’s brightest talents (particularly as it relates to Chardonnay), Paden West. Previously the winemaker at Benza Vineyards, Paden is now winemaker for the sparkling wine label, Lytle-Barnett and its sister label, Aubaine where he rejoins Directors of Winemaking Andrew Davis and Isabelle Meunier with whom he worked 10-years ago (2026 is the new 2016!*). Could this mean my top 3 for Willamette sparkling wines will see a shift? We’ll see! Paden will also continue working alongside his wife and partner, Jess West, at their shared label, Approachment Wines (which I highly recommend and whose Chardonnay made my top 10 whites for 2025).

*2026 is the new 2016 is a recent social media trend where people post nostalgic photos and videos from 2016. It was meant as an escape from today’s overwhelming digital landscape and as a throwback to more authentic and less-curated adventures. Mostly I just found it fun to reminisce…

In the Spirit

Yes, I too hopped on that recent trend on Instagram with a throwback to my family’s sabbatical in 2016:

Well this 2016 trend took me down a rabbit hole of procrastination this morning, and while there are far too many pictures, I think I picked the ones that best captured the intangibles of the year.

In January of 2016, we pulled the kids from school, packed our lives into 2 suitcases and a backpack each, left our home, neighbors, family, and cats bound for 8 months abroad.

Our adventures began in Spain, where we traveled from Madrid to Andalucìa, and back north to Basque Country. It marked our first visits to Jerez and Rioja, then Bordeaux and Bourgogne. We eventually made our way via Alsace through Germany to our 4.5 month home in Częstochowa, Poland. As we built a life in our new neighborhood, we also explored much of Eastern Europe (discovering wine in Hungary, Slovakia, Czech Republic, Austria, and Slovenia). And eventually, we made our way to Italy, where we immersed for the summer.

Nothing can prepare you for the logistical, emotional, and physical elements of an adventure like this; and nothing can compare. Words still feel inadequate 10 years later. A sabbatical while at times is like an extended vacation, it’s also drastically different. This was our life, even if it was brief. We worked, made friends, and experienced everyday life in a place very foreign to us.

There is no question 2016 changed me, changed us. We all knew it would, but none of us knew how, and in many ways those changes are still playing out. But we can all say, we are certainly not the same people that stepped on that plane back in January 2016. And I can also say with certainty, it was one of the best years of my life.

As for the rest of 2016, re-entry was a learning process in and of itself, but we did pull the kids out of school one more time that year… #webleedcubbyblue - Yeah, 2016 was kind of momentous. And words still aren’t enough.

And if this snippet isn’t enough for you, and you’re ready to jump down another rabbit hole, our sabbatical life was chronicled on my family’s food blog (published from 2006 to 2016).

In Living Color

This past holiday I sat down with a new, beginner’s level wine book, Stikky Wine. The book is designed to be read in an hour or two and between two sittings. Its goal is to “to teach essential wine tasting skills to anyone with just a little time,” and I can attest it is a quick read. It’s also full of wine 101 tidbits from how wine is made, to how to choose a wine from a list. As a former teacher of WSET Level 1, I will say that it covers nearly everything I taught in the course including a wine’s structural components and how to taste a wine. While it doesn’t come with a certification or a pin, it is a fun resource for those looking to brush up on basic wine knowledge. I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone already well-versed in wine, or even somewhat-versed in wine, but for the truly new-to-wine and curious, it’s quick, informative, and will give you a solid base from which to start your further, more in-depth explorations. It’s also great for those that need or want a base-level of wine knowledge, say maybe someone that entertains clients and needs some wine expertise, but isn’t particularly interested in it for themselves. It’s also likely a book I’ll gift to my kids when they move into their first “adult” home along with their first cookbook. Never hurts to have a handy resource (outside of mom!).

In the Hopper

This weekend I’m off to a Austin, Texas to visit with my college roommates. There will no doubt be wine - and not the Franzia we used to keep in the apartment fridge. As for what’s to come here, I have a lot in the works from an Italian tour with my boyfriend (#cabernetfranc is my boyfriend), all things Rioja, hidden Italian travel destinations, and a revamp of my Willamette Valley Guide. And yes, there’s also a bit of travel lining up, both wine-centric and not (although wine is always adjacent).

In Memoriam

Last year I explored and shared a lot about Montefalco, Italy as well as its native wines, Sagrantino, Grechetto, and Trebbiano. Sadly, this month, Montefalco said goodbye to one of its early visionaries and storied legends. Arnaldo Caprai the founder of Arnaldo Caprai winery died at the age of 92. Mr. Caprai was an Umbrian entrepreneur in the textile industry, who in 1971, acquired 104-acres (10 planted to vine) in Montefalco, Italy. At the time, most of the Sagrantino planted was used to produce a dessert-style wine, but Mr. Caprai believed it could also be used to produce a powerful, age-worthy dry red. He gradually acquired adjacent lands brining the holdings to more than 395 acres planted to Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Grechetto, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Mr. Caprai eventually transitioned the operations to his son Marco Caprai who joined his father in 1986. Marco has since continued his father’s vision of showcasing and amplifying Sagrantino. On a personal note, Arnaldo Caprai Sagrantino was among the first Sagrantinos I tasted (also back in 2016!), and they were among those I rated highly this past summer on my immersive trip to the region for A-Montefalco. Mr. Caprai certainly leaves the world with a powerful wine legacy - and as Sagrantino sits in my top 5 reds of all time, one I am eternally grateful for.

Should you want to raise a glass in his honor, I recommended this one in my 2025 wine guide:

2020 Arnaldo Caprai 25 Anni Montefalco Sagrantino

Sagrantino also lives in my top 5 reds, and Arnaldo Caprai is one of the OGs. This label comes from hand-selected grapes that are rotated in barrels daily during fermentation for a softer extraction of tannins. It’s still a dense, and concentrated wine with dark fruits, warm spices, and volcanic minerality. It’s probably not one you want to sip on a patio under Umbrian sun, but believe me there are worse ways to spend a summer. Bold and Beautiful. $140

I know many of you can relate. That’s how life goes, always throwing us ups, downs, and curveballs (or cork-tainted wines). Well, this past week, I took one to the gut. It was the kind of stuff my literal nightmares are made of: one of my children calling me from the scene of a bad car accident. But there in also lies the best part - really the only part that mattered -they called. They were okay (completely - and no one else was involved). It wasn’t hard to find the silver lining in this one - or in what followed exactly a week later, when I was the one making the phone call having been t-boned in an intersection after someone failed to stop. Obviously, these are extreme examples, but that’s the typical yin and yang, dueling sides of a coin thing that makes Dickens’ opening line as applicable to the big picture as it is to the smaller story lines; to the year as it is to the day.

Needless to say, there were some definite emotions evoked in those chaotic, car-less, post-trauma days - which happened to also coincide with my son’s final “homecoming” ahead of his college graduation and marking his last “childhood” Christmas. Cue the deep breath. And so once the nerves were calmed, tears were wiped, the grievances aired, the hugs hugged, and life began its slip back into normalcy, my husband and I sat down for a bottle of wine. In these private, home moments, I’m usually more collaborative in my wine choices, but this time I went for the cellar alone, with purpose. I knew I wanted something “good,” which meant higher in quality than our typical weeknight glass pour, a wine that I love, that brings comfort, and that I don’t have to think about. And so, without hesitation, I went for something Italian. It was an intrinsic pull, a choice that wasn’t debated, thought out, or second guessed, because unlike the works of Dickens or Beckett, Italian wines give more than they evoke, and my chosen Brunello, it gave me a long, soothing liquid hug.

And now, here are a few wines that also bear merit in my book. Hopefully they’ll either elicit or proffer a bit of emotion for you as well.

In My Glass

Westborn Perpetual Reserve No. 01

Looking for a good Cali sparkler? This non-vintage Extra Brut is derived from vineyards often considered “Grand Cru” for Napa, Sonoma, and Mendocino. It’s also the first non-vintage bottling for the three winemakers that collab’d to bring the Westborn label to fruition. A blend of primarily Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with a touch of Meunier, the three-vintage, first-edition of this Perpetual Reserve aged for 37 months in bottle and delivers a savory expression that satisfies and delights - even for this discerning bubbles lover. It does tend to showcase more tropical fruits, making it distinctively “new world,” but with more depth of character than I typically equate with Golden State sparkling wines. The perlage was fine, persistent and zippy, and the finish was lasting earning this domestic drink a definitive nod. Go West! $100

2021 Nicolas Grosbois “La Cuisine de Ma Mere” Chinon

Chillable red alert! This unoaked, crunchy quaffer is best served with a slight chill and charcuterie at happy hour. It is a pure and unadulterated Cab Franc. Personally, I’m enjoying this juicy red on a lazy Sunday afternoon between bites of winter sausage and cornichons, while battling it out over a few competitive rounds of gin or Euchre. That said, it works equally well with burgers, pork, or a roast chicken. You gotta love the versatility of Cab Franc. I know I do. A bower. $26

2021 Donnafugata Su Vulcano Enta Rosso DOC

As I mentioned, I’ve been craving the comfort of Italian wine (and food) this month and this volcanic red from Sicily’s Etna DOC was more than a wine, it was a sensory adventure. If you want a wine that brings you into the moment or to cut through the gooey goodness and baked layers of pasta and copious amounts of cheese - this is it. Crunchy red berries, brushy wild herbs, and that flinty, ashen minerality reminiscent of our earth’s tumultuous core, erupt across the palate leaving you with citrus zest and a thirst for more. There’s a few more days before those resolutions kick in, so get your carbs and cheese on. Seismic wave. $36

In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

The Benedictine monk Dom Pierre Pérignon (1638–1715) is often mythically attributed with having developed the practice of making Champagne. Granted, this is more than 100 years after the process was “discovered” by monks in Limoux. Whichever story you ascribe to, or don’t, one thing is certain, Champagne not only harnessed the mystique of the tale, but also the renown for the product with Ruinart as the first Champagne house in 1729. By the mid-1730s, Champagne was an integral part of Parisian nightlife.

The Champagne terroir encompasses a mosaic of small vineyards, around 280,000 individual plots, each one bringing a unique combination of climate, soil, and topography. The region’s cool climate is marked by high levels of rainfall with seasonal frost risk, but the predominately chalky and limestone soils are highly porous, free-draining, and have the ability to retain water, which can be useful to the vines in the drier seasons. Not a particularly mountainous or hilly region, most of Champagne’s 84,000 acres of vineyards are planted at 300 to 1,000 feet above sea level. The hillsides in the northern part of the region have proven the most advantageous for growing high-quality grapes, particularly Chardonnay. Only 17 villages in Champagne have a traditional entitlement to a “Grand Cru” ranking with 42 qualified as “Premier Cru.”

Although eight grapes are technically approved for use in Champagne, three varieties are used most often: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier. The other five include Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Champagne Rose (as of 2025), and can be included in the blends or produced as single-varietal bottlings. The key to each of these grapes is their ability to thrive (although not without challenges) in a cool climate, render high levels of acidity, and as they are harvested earlier than grapes for still wines, not produce off-putting, under-ripe aromas and flavors.

Here are a few basics for the big three:

Chardonnay

Chardonnay is the most often used white grape for Champagne as well as sparkling wines worldwide. Its subtle apple and citrus aromas and flavors complement the biscuit and pastry notes from those imparted by the yeast cells in the aging process. Chardonnay is often credited for bringing elegance, finesse, and bright acidity to sparkling wine.

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is a red grape also well-suited for sparkling wines and adds structure, body, and red fruit flavors for additional depth and complexity.

Meunier

Meunier, another red grape, is a mutation of Pinot Noir that buds slightly later than both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Meunier imparts roundness, fruitiness, and approachability to sparkling wines, often softening the blend and enhancing earlier drinkability.

Winery of the Week

In 2019, Champagne R. Pouillon et Fil’s Solera was the very first grower* Champagne I ever experienced, and to say it changed everything is hardly an exaggeration. In fact, it took my appreciation for the category to new entirely heights and dare I say, even sparked an obsession. I’ve since been to Champagne twice, and each time I begin with a visit to Pouillon and the husband and wife duo, Fabrice & Bénédicte. The passion and effort going into the integrity of their Champagne - as well as their kindness and generosity - is next level. With organic and biodynamic practices; use of natural composts; the hand-selecting of grapes by parcel; and the pressing via a traditional small batch wooden press before vinifying with native yeasts and natural sugars, Pouillon is looking to express a particular focus of origin to each plot. And that is exactly what their wines showcase.

The Pouillon family began growing and selling grapes in Champagne more than 100 years ago. In 1947, Fabrice’s grandfather Roger Pouillon, however, decided to begin production of his own wines and label. The venture proved successful and as outside contracts for the grapes lapsed, the plots were reincorporated into the family estate and used for their own bottlings. Fabrice’s father, James, joined the family business in 1964, with Fabrice eventually following in 1998, after which he began some dramatic changes, beginning with the vineyard’s conversion to organic viticulture. He also implemented biodynamic principles to ensure the health of the soils, the vines, and ultimately, the quality of the wines. He also began to produce single-parcel cuvées to showcase their varied and individual terroirs. Today, Pouillon’s 15 acres of vineyards, planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier, are found in Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, and Avenay Val d’Or in the Grande Vallée, as well as in Epernay and Festigny along the Marne River, and Tauxières-Mutry, just to the north in the Montagne de Reims.

As for the wines, once the fruit is hand-harvested and sorted, it is brought to the winery where it is pressed in the family’s ancient wooden press - as has been tradition and which was moved to the newly completed winery this very harvest. Beginning in 2025 at this new production facility - built entirely of local and natural resources - the juice now falls via gravity into the fermentation tanks below ground. It is here, where they will also be aged and put through full malolactic fermentation in a combination of stainless steel, aged oak demi-muids, and barriques, and eventually bottled for the second fermentation and further aging as one of two cuvées or the several single-parcel labels. Now, about that “solera” Champagne previously referenced, this is a perpetual cuvée aged in oak uprights with wines in the blend dating back to 1997. Equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, each year 30% of the perpetual wine is removed for that second fermentation in the bottle and eventual release as the “Solera,’ and then replaced with 30% new wine from the current vintage. So in essence, the current cuvée represents 29 vintages! And do I recommend this wine? Yes, yes, I do. It’s strongly encouraged. As is a visit to their new winery, cellar, and tasting room in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ.

Recommended wines: This is getting to be a theme in this space, but I do recommend all of them. That said, if I were to choose (and I often have to because I can’t bring them all home), I’d select the Solera, the Grande Vallée, the Les Terres Froides, Les Chataigniers, and Les Blanchiens.

*“Grower Champagnes” differ from the large house Champagnes in that they are grown, made, and aged by the same grower/family and are a distinctive reflection of terroir. It’s essentially farm to table.

Some grower Champagne vineyards are only 2-5 acres. And of the 20,000 independent growers, there are roughly just 5,000 of them. Styles vary, but vintage variation is almost always reflected in grower Champagne. These Champagnes are not done to recipe, but to reflect Mother Nature and the vineyards in the given year.

Only 5% of Champagne imported into the US is grower Champagne. There are no labeling requirements, but many grower bottles will feature the letters “RM” or phrasing Récoltant Manipulant, which means a minimum of 95% of the Champagne is estate grown.

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In Brief

Clubs carry a certain level of prestige and mystique. There’s secret clubs, private clubs, exclusive clubs, sports clubs, dance clubs, adventure clubs…and of course there’s Special Club Champagnes. You can spot them by their uniquely designed and embossed bottles.

Of course, it’s more than looks that makes these bottles special. In 1971, a group of 12 growers formed a coalition to promote the terroir of grower Champagne. Today, the collective consists of 25 growers and features only wines of an outstanding vintage. ⁣To achieve “Special Club” status, the champagne considered is subject to two blind tastings (once at the still wine stage before bottling and again after three years aging in the bottle) by a panel of oenologists and wine makers.⁣ If the Champagne is deemed worthy (which many are not owing to the extreme selectivity), it is then bottled as a Special Club.

In the Room Where It Happened

A tale of two Chardonnays: the Buscado Vivo o Muerto 2020 “El Cerro” and 2019 “La Verdad” from the Uco Valley of Mendoza, Argentina:

“Buscado Vivo o Muerto,” translates to Wanted Dead or Alive, which is the search that business partners Alejandro Sejonovich and Jeff Mausbach embarked on in pursuit of old mountain vineyards with unique terroir from which they could craft distinctive wines. And while they do produce multiple red wines, often co-fermentations of Mablec with other red varieties growing in the same vineyards, I dove into the single-varietal, single-vineyard Chardonnays. The first, the Buscado Vivo o Muerto 2020 “El Cerro,” comes from the Gualtallary appellation, while the second wine, the 2019 “La Verdad,” comes from the San Pablo appellation. Each of these appellations are within the greater Uco Valley of Mendoza where the steep slopes offer protection against frost and extreme weather, and where the Chardonnay grows slow and steady owing to the intensity and amount of sunlight throughout the growing season.

Let’s start with the El Cerro from the Gualtallary. The grapes for this wine come from vines around 15 years old, planted in shallow sandy soils with limestone-driven top soils at 4,600 feet. The grapes are hand-harvested and fermented in 500-liter French oak. The wine goes through malolactic fermentation and is aged for another nine months in the 500L barrels. This was a complex wine with notable acidity and a mouth-coating roundness. I picked up aromas and flavors of hazelnut, orchard fruits, and citrus with a distinctive herbal quality. It was layered, evocative, and would easily pair with any number of meals from roast chicken to scallops, or even a marbled cut of steak with a side of potatoes.

La Verdad is crafted from 20-year old vines in shallow silty soils with a limestone top soil at 5,000 feet elevation. The grapes are again hand-harvested, but fermented in larger 2,000-liter French oak fudre**. The wine undergoes partial malolactic fermentation and ages nine months in the fudre. To me this wine had greater aromatic intensity and a more creamy texture than El Cerro, but with equally vibrant acidity. I also found La Verdad to be more notably mineral with both citrus and tropical fruits, including a bit of pineapple ahead of a saline finish. It was also more energetic and youthful despite being a year older. And it definitely had me craving some shellfish or a creamy pasta.

I can’t say with certainty that the differences between these wines are entirely terroir driven, or that the winemaking had little influence, but what I can say is that I was impressed by each of these Argentine Chardonnays. They demonstrated complexity and depth, but most importantly, they were downright pleasurable to drink. They also reinforced my belief that Chardonnay from the Andes is a gem for the region. Malbec certainly gets most of the attention with the Cabs also garnering recognition, but Chardonnay as well as several other white wines from Argentina are an indication that this South American landscape is home to several truly world-class wine regions.

**A fudre is a large wooden vessel often between 1,000 to 30,000 liters, typically made of oak, for fermenting and aging wines.

In the Press

Last week I stopped by Portland’s KOIN AM Extra to share five tips to serving Champagne & Sparkling wine at the holidays:

In the Moment

I’ve mentioned before that my husband and I take part weekly in the blind tastings offered at my local wine bar. It’s partly for practice, but mostly for fun. It’s a good way to sharpen my quality assessment skills, but is largely a crapshoot when it comes to successfully naming the variety, vintage, and region. I won’t even attempt guessing the producer! And while I certainly fail (way) more than I succeed, it does feel good to get one right and I’ve recently nailed a few: Rioja, Sangiovese, and a Cabernet Franc, vintage 2022, Loire Valley.

My recent wine trips helped me to recognize the Rioja and Sangiovese, but the Cab Franc, I attribute that to true love and repetition. Cabernet Franc sits firmly in my Top 5 Reds of all time and is often found in my glass.

My obsession for Cabernet Franc began in the Finger Lakes (FLX) of New York. The year was 2011 and we were returning home from a cross-country family road trip - hiking, picking mussels, and gorging on fried clams off the coast of Maine - when we decided to stop for a rest (and check out a winery). What was meant to be a brief respite, ended up lasting 3 days! And it was during that off-course adventure I tasted my first single-varietal Cabernet Franc.

A few sips and years later, I found myself tying vines in the FLX, doing photo shoots for their marketing team, writing for their magazine, and helping with wine events. But, in between my dozens of trips to New York, I also discovered that Michigan had some killer cool climate Cab Franc, and I began spending MANY weekends touring 4 of the state’s 5 AVAs. Those Mitten State adventures also pushed me further down the wine rabbit hole, and with the encouragement of a good friend and winemaker, I jumped into Instagram, WSET, and wine production. From education and tourism, to vineyard work, marketing consulting, writing, and winemaking (my first CabF included!), Cabernet Franc launched an entire movement - or at least my second career.

I’ve since had many incredible moments making, drinking, pouring, teaching about, and celebrating with this versatile red grape from cool climate regions in the U.S., France, Italy, Hungary, Argentina, and even Spain! It’s obviously my ultimate grape and wine for reasons beyond its deliciousness, but as for that Cabernet Franc, it’s known for its freshness, bright acidic lift, and its food pairing abilities. It can range from crunchy red, brambly fruits with the occasional green pepper or earthy notes, to more lush, dark-fruited versions with warming spices. It also comes in red, rosé, white, and bubbly bottlings! I could go on, but you get the point. I dig the stuff. But make no mistake, while I’m stoked I got it right in this blind, rest assured, I’ll miss it in another down the road!

In the Spirit

…and from behind the paywall.

If you missed my 2025 wine guide, it’s not just for the holidays. These recommended wines are entirely based on my travels and personal cellar which can be enjoyed year-round. Download it here:

2025 Holiday Wine Guide

15MB ∙ PDF file

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But, if it’s bubbles you’re after, particularly for the upcoming New Year’s celebrations, this guide not only offers my personal recommendations, but will also give you the expertise to go discover your own favorites from around the world:

Sparkling Guide

19.8MB ∙ PDF file

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And lastly, as I’ve been getting a lot of requests for Willamette Valley recommendations, below is the guide I put out about the region last year. I do plan to update the guide for 2026, but this is still a great place to start:

Willamette Valley Guide

4.63MB ∙ PDF file

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In the Hopper

I’m off on a much-needed family holiday for the next week, but after the New Year, I’ll be back and we’ll be talking all things Spanish wine as well as my top wines from 2025. And of course we’ll be traveling the world by bottle, glass, word, and memory. I have a lot planned! Until then, if you’re so inspired, you can help me reach that subscriber goal that I’m so close to…Subscribe or share a subscription below, and as always, if you have any specific topics, wine regions, or wine travels you’re curious to know more about, drop me a line!

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In the Spirit

I’m sure many of you have already begun your holiday shopping, but if you’re anything like me, much of it will be done last minute and online. So, this year I decided to put together something new, a digital holiday wine guide based entirely around my personal recommendations and recent wine travels.

2025 Holiday Wine Guide

15MB ∙ PDF file

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50+ wines, regional highlights, gift recommendations, and more - all based on my personal travels, wine cellar, and year-round favorites - and all from one source!

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It’s too often the case that wines can be difficult to source, expensive to ship, or just generally inaccessible. And, it can certainly be challenging to even know where to start, let alone remember all of the suggestions that caught our attention. With these potential roadblocks in mind, I’ve sourced this guide entirely from one readily available source: wine.com.

It’s a one-stop shop with more than 10,000 wines from around the world. A go-to for me, they offer solid value and a diverse selection. The availability of each wine will vary by shipping destination, but I’ve picked more than 50 wines of all styles from across Italy, Spain, France, and the western USA. Is every variety, region, and favorite hit upon? Obviously not, but each selection is a wine I drink regularly, have in my cellar, often, and is based on my recent wine adventures.

Any one of my selections can make for a tantalizing food and wine pairing, or a thoughtful gift - for oneself or others - and they are also simply a good buy and pour to consider year round. But if 50+ wines aren’t quite enough, or you’re looking for something specific, make sure to check-out the gift guide wine.com has put together this year as well. I know I already hit “add to cart” on a few (and two of them have already been consumed!). Seriously. I put my money where my mouth is, and it’s generally filled with wine! As always, if you have any questions or need additional recommendations, you know where to find me. Until then, happy shopping, happy sipping, and happy holidays.

In the Hopper

I’ll be back next week with more wine recommendations, regional highlights, and more. I’m also in the process of organizing all of my thoughts, impressions, and stories from my most recent travels to Spain. That will be coming at ya in the New Year! Oh! And don’t worry, you know I’ve got a few sparkling suggestions before the calendar flips too.

Now, until then…hit download and enjoy this labor of love. And if you love it too, please share this post with your friends and family. The greatest reward for us writers: readers. (And a glass of wine, which I’m off to go sip now.) Cheers!

2025 Holiday Wine Guide

15MB ∙ PDF file

Download

Download

With just over a week back in my domestic surroundings, I’m still digesting the 11 days spent in Spain (as well as Thanksgiving dinner!). This personal excursion was an experience that took me back to familiar stomping grounds, introduced me to new sites, senses, and wines, put me behind the wheel on a solo road trip across parts of the Meseta Central, introduced me to an eclectic and integral cast of characters, as well as sent me over a few rainbows. In the coming weeks, I’ll be parsing it all down into less of a potluck and more of a dégustation - can someone please pass me a digestif? - but until then, there’s still much to appreciate, dive into, and of course serve up. Let’s get to it.

In My Glass

2022 L’erta di Radda Chianti Classico

These days, Chianti Classico offers terroir-driven, soulful expressions of Sangiovese, not the ubiquitous singular expression once relegated to basket-bottles on red-checkered tablecloths. Although, I’ll be honest, those do have a nostalgic appeal on occasion. This irresistible, mineral-driven, stony and energetic Chianti doesn’t hide its Tuscan origins with classic red berries and tomato leaf aromas. It’s as herbal as it is fruity and will have you craving a heaping bowl of pasta with short-rib ragu. Okay, maybe that’s just what I’m craving. But it would make for a satisfying, even if somewhat indulgent evening, because let’s face it, I’m not stopping at one serving of either. Loosen the belt a notch and dig in. Nourishment. $30

2017 La Rioja Alta S.A. “Viña Arana” Gran Reserva

I might be back in the Willamette Valley, but I’m still deeply in a Spanish mindset after spending the last few weeks traversing a few of its more well-known wine regions. I will have LOTS to cover soon, but this week I want to share a Gran Reserva from the winery that has spoken to me from the start (of my wine drinking days): La Rioja Alta SA. The Viña Arana boasts all the classic aromas and flavors of Rioja - red berries, vanilla, coconut and those sweet barrel spices. It’s also incredibly balanced with soft tannins, lively acidity and a finish dusted with orange zest. For me this elicits a bounty of memories both at home and abroad, and it’s one I recommend for creating a few of your own. Bank it. $50

2023 Belondrade Y Lurton

This wine was new to me. And if you don’t know it, let’s change that ASAP. I’ve been gushing about the Verdejos from Ossian Vides y Vinos for the past year. And that praise won’t cease anytime soon. But, as it turns out, they’re not the only ones kicking out some unbelievably good Verdejo. In fact, Belondrade has been on it since 1994! You might even say they set the stage for Ossian some 20 years later. Insanely complex Verdejo from Rueda, however, is where the comparison between the two producers ends. These are entirely different labels, philosophies, styles, and frankly, terroirs, and I’m all in on both. In my hand-written notes, I gave this wine four stars - my top mark. I then walked miles out of my way in Madrid to buy one to bring home. It’s an explosion of citrus on the palate, but it’s not sharp or linear. It’s a rounded and mouth-coating burst of intensity - florals, citrus, yellow fruits, herbs (fennel), peaches, and salinity with a slightly, and pleasantly bitter finish. It’s serious and seriously delicious. Consummately captivating. $47

In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

I’ve previously covered the Campania region of Italy and one its red wine appellations, Taurasi DOCG, so this week, let’s dive into one of the white wine zones: the Greco di Tufo DOCG.

Greco di Tufo DOCG is situated in the hilly and mountainous central-east area of Campania within the winegrowing region of Irpinia and known for complex wines of the same name. Greco di Tufo is one of Campania’s oldest grape varieties that was largely unheard of until one producer began its revival in the mid-20th century. Today, it’s a highly-regarded, complex white wine from southern Italy. A DOCG since 2003, only eight villages are allowed to use the label: Tufo, Montefusco, Petruro Irpino, Chianche, Torrioni, Altavilla, Irpina, and Prata di Principato Ultra. Most of the vineyards within Greco di Tufo DOCG are planted on slopes at elevations between 1300 and 1650 feet and benefit from a cooler climate than other areas of Campania. As such, the grapes enjoy a longer ripening season while also retaining their natural acidity. The soils within the region vary from limestone, sand, and clay to ash, pumice, and lapilli. Some vineyards also feature deposits of sulfur, which lend to even greater minerality in the resulting wines. As for the wines, the DOCG requires a minimum of 85% Greco di Tufo be used, although most will be 100%. That said, up to 15 percent of Coda di Volpe is also permitted. And while the majority of the wines produced are still, dry whites, sparkling Greco di Tufo is also permitted and must be aged for at least three years prior to release. The typical profile for Greco di Tufo is a medium to full-bodied, dry white with high acid, medium alcohol and descriptors including minerality, citrus, orchard fruits, stone fruits, and hazelnut.

Something to consider: Greco di Tufo can be fantastic pairing at the holidays, with its acidity, minerality, and complexity. Its citrus and stone fruit notes can also pair well with a feast of seven fishes, goose, ham, squash dishes, and the richer dishes like roasted or mashed potatoes, while its mineral backbone and body can stand up to gravy and savory stuffings.

Winery of the Week

Curious who is credited for having revived the revered Greco di Tufo? Well, that would be Antonio Mastroberardino, the 9th generation figure-head from the winery bearing the same name: Mastroberardino. Mastroberardino was founded in the 1750s and today is led by 10th generation, Piero Mastroberardino.

Piero’s father, Antonio, is credited for pioneering quality production in the region, but it was not without struggle. After returning to his family’s estate after WWII, he found it in ruins and not only had to rebuild the entire business, but also restore all the vineyards. He spent the next several decades restoring the vineyards while also acquiring new ones in Irpinia and greater Campania. He focused his attention on three nearly extinct ancient Campanian grape varietals: Fiano, Greco, and Aglianico. While at the time, many other Italian winemakers chose to cultivate international grapes, Antonio wanted to preserve Campania’s winemaking tradition. In fact, for decades Mastroberardino was the only producer of high-quality Aglianico, establishing the reputation of Taurasi. Today, he is credited with having saved another white wine grape, Fiano, from extinction while bringing attention back to Greco and Aglianico. Praise be! But, I should also note, prior to Antonio, a few other generations deserve a nod as well, in 1878, Angelo kicked off exports while his son Michele took the wines global. (And you can learn all about this in the family’s museum which Piero has painstakingly pieced together from generations of archives.)

Back to the future, today, Piero Mastroberardino is crafting wines reflective of both Irpinian tradition as well as modern tastes and innovation across 260 hectares and 17 estates. The winery offers several lines of wines including the newest, Stilèma, through which they intend to evoke the style of winemaking of the native Irpinia vines in honor of Antonio. These wines are derived from the family’s estate vineyards, including the own-rooted vines of Fiano, Aglianico, Greco, and made to represent the wine styles as they were between the late 1950s and the early 1980s. They also produce a white wine from Aglianico, and, I have it on good authority, they might even be playing around with bubbles!

Recommended wines: all three Stilèma wines, Radici Taurasi DOCG, Radici Taurasi Riserva DOCG, Neroametà, and the Heritage line of single-varietal bottlings.

In the Spirit

Tis the season to sparkle! Now, I’m not one to need an “occasion” to open a bottle of bubbles. Tuesday night will suffice. I drink and serve sparkling wine from around the world year-round and on the regular, but during the holiday season, it becomes my general go-to. Whether I’m welcoming friends to the house, sharing an aperitivo glass with colleagues, bringing a bottle to share to the holiday party, gifting one to the host, or simply sipping at home while decorating, cooking/baking, wrapping gifts, etc., bubbles exude happiness, celebration, and an extra level of conviviality. Plus, they’re just delicious. This week, I want to share a few easily accessible bottles that serve up as much quality as they do festivity. I figured I’d start with two classics and then round-out the list with a few bottles that aren’t too far outside of the box, they’re more box adjacent. They’re also affordable and likely to be something different than what everyone else will be bringing. Let’s get shopping and popping:

Champagne Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé

Is it one of the most recognized rosé Champagnes? Yes. I’d even say it’s a benchmark, and for good reason. No one is going to be disappointed with this bottle of 100% Pinot Noir. It’s a classic, crowd-pleasing bottle that delivers consistent quality and delight. It’s dry with a vivacious mousse and yields an explosion of bright red berries, spice, and minerality with a hint of almond skin on the finish. More importantly, it’s easy to pair with appetizers, main courses, and cheese platters with your wine-loving friends. I also find it a mighty fine accompaniment to a fireplace, cozy blanket, and my favorite Christmas movie with the family or a quiet date night. Holly Jolly. $100

2022 Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs

Sticking with the classics, this Blanc de Blancs (which in this instance is 100% Chardonnay), was the first wine California-based Schramsberg produced in 1965, and it was America’s first commercially produced Chardonnay-based brut sparkling wine. How’s that for some fun facts you can spout while serving this one up. Schramsberg’s got some serious history and legions of fans across the country, so it’s always a welcome sight. As for what to expect, it’s bright, crisp, and fruit-forward with notes of apples, citrus, and stone fruits with a touch of spice and brioche to round it all out. It’s a bottle I’m going to share with my less wine-geeky crowd that’s showing up for the company, fun, and festivities because I’m still going to serve up a quality fizz. It’s going to make for a notable welcome glass and will easily pair with shrimp cocktail, oysters, ceviche, passed hors d’oeuvres, or takeout. Yuletide. $45

Langlois Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé

It’s creamy, zippy, fruity, and it’s primarily Cabernet Franc (with a side of Pinot Noir). Crémant is essentially “Champagne” from anywhere in France except “Champagne.” It’s made the same way as Champagne, often uses grapes local to its region, and it’s typically far easier on the pocket-book. This pink-hued pour from the Loire region bursts with red fruits and a touch of almond skin. It doesn’t necessarily require food, but will pair well with berry desserts, cheeses, and easy conversations. I’m bringing this one to the post-work holiday party or as a gift to the host. And it’s one I’ll keep chilled in the fridge for those unexpected or unplanned mid-week get-togethers. Merriment. $35

Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut

While Champagne forever reigns supreme, for me, Franciacorta has always run a close second. A DOCG since 1995, Franciacorta is Italy’s answer to Champagne with rigorous production, aging requirements, and similar grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Blanc. While I’m generally a fan of the region’s Brut Nature (bone dry, high acid) bottlings, they can be a bit intense for the uninitiated, so I’m going to draw them over to la dolce vita with this balanced and satiating Brut from Contadi Castaldi. It’s a starry blend of citrus, stone fruits, spice, and salinity. It brings the party, which is exactly where it belongs. Buone feste! $35

2020 Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Metodo Classico Oudeis Brut

Vintage bottlings (produced from grapes from one specific harvest) tend to step things up a notch as does this Pinot Noir dominant sparkling wine from Alta Langa, Italy’s first region to produce Champagne-method wines. That history, combined with Serafino’s nearly 150-year legacy, makes this a wine to share when you want to stand-out from the crowd. More savory than fruity, this is an elegant and rich sparkler with notes of honeysuckle, white fleshy fruits, and lemon zest with a throughline of minerality ahead of a toasty finish. I’m reserving this one for a more intimate dinner party, a host gift for a good friend, a post-work decompress-sesh with my bff, and at this price point, I’m also picking one up to sip as I tackle all of the holiday to-dos. Twinkle, twinkle. $40

In Practice

Recommended Glassware for Serving/Sipping Sparkling Wine

Personally, I prefer to drink all of my bubbles from a larger tulip shaped, or white wine/universal glass rather than a typical flute. The more open mouth of the glass will help to enhance the fresh aromas. But why are bubbles always served in flutes? Temperature control, they help to keep the bubbles cool, and to preserve the effervescence (aka the bubbles). So, if using a tulip, white wine, or universal glass, simply do smaller pours (2 oz) and keep the bottle chilled. The same small pour rule applies for coupes, which are actually the least practical for enjoying bubbles, but you can bet I’m using my Grandma’s antique crystal coupes this time of year!

Sparkling wines are best served between 43 and 48 degrees F - which is slightly warmer than your refrigerator setting.

And for those rare instances you might have sparkling wine leftovers, it’s important to use a stopper to preserve the bubbles. There are a lot of options available on the market, but the Peugeot Sparkling Wine Stopper for $15 gets my vote. It’s got an easy to use lock system - simply push down and give a small twist to the lock/unlock positions - and it’s effective for at least a few days (stored in the fridge).

Side note: Keep in mind, to keep those precious bubbles, you’re also locking in pressure. So, as you would remove the cork on a sparkling wine bottle, do so with your thumb over the top of the stopper at all times, tilt the bottle to a 45-degree angle, and slowly remove the the stopper. We don’t want anyone losing an eye!

In Context

Since we’re on the topic of sparkling wines, here’s a brief refresher on the various production methods and styles. While I tend to prefer sparkling wines made via the Champagne method, that’s a personal preference and not to say the others are inferior - I pop plenty of those too! Each sparkling wine production method is done for different reasons, intentions, and results. These bubbly styles are not intended to be the same and each has merit.

Champagne Method

Also known as the “traditional method,” the Champagne method is a process by which wine undergoes a second fermentation in bottle to achieve the bubbly sensation we all love. The secondary fermentation is key to this method. During the primary fermentation, the yeast converted all the sugar to alcohol. So, in order for a secondary fermentation to commence, a small amount of “liqueur de tirage,” a mixture of grape sugars and yeast, is added to the wine as it is bottled. Each bottle is then capped with a crown cap (or cork) and stacked horizontally in a cellar. As the yeast convert the additional sugars to alcohol, they emit carbon dioxide, which creates the effervescence. The decaying yeast then form a sediment known as “the lees” which release chemical compounds and create the bready, biscuity and toasty notes associated with traditional method sparkling wines. After a period of maturation with the lees (dictated by style and/or regulation), the sediment is removed through riddling and disgorgement and the sparkling wine is then topped with the “liqueur d’expédition” (aka dosage - or grape juice sugar), and sealed with a cork and wire cage. The resulting sparkling wines are then either released or aged further in the bottle.

Charmat Method

In the Charmat method, the second fermentation - which creates the effervescence in a sparkling wine - takes place when yeast and sugar is added to the base wine held in bulk in a pressurized tank. The yeast consumes the sugar and emits carbon dioxide creating the bubbles. The wine is then clarified, dosage is added (or not) and the now sparkling wine is bottled under counter pressure (sometimes on an as-needed basis as determined by market demand).⁣ ⁣While this method is often derided in wine circles as being inferior to the traditional method, it has its place. First, it is far more economical and less labor intensive. But for the wine drinker’s purposes, it’s also not meant to create Champagne-style wines with yeasty, bready, and toasty notes. Rather the tank method helps to preserve the fresh fruit aromas and flavors of the wine, and is (generally) meant to be consumed within a year of harvest.

Ancestral Method

Méthode Ancestrale (or Pét-Nat) is the process by which a wine is bottled before the primary fermentation has finished. The wines, which retain some yeast and sugars, then finish the fermentation process in the bottle which creates carbon dioxide as the yeast consume the remaining sugars. The wines are often then released unfiltered and with the crown cap; although they can be filtered and bottled with a traditional cork and cage. Méthode Ancestrale is like the Wild West of sparkling wine production and the results can vary from cloudy and fully carbonated to softer carbonation and more sweetness. It’s often a guessing game with results varying bottle to bottle, but typically you’ll find a more rustic wine, truly representative of the terroir.

Force Carbonation

The least expensive method of sparkling wine production is the injection of carbon dioxide under pressure into a base wine - think Soda Stream (just don’t try it at home!). Although the bubbles may die quickly in a full-force carbonated sparkling wine, carbonation can be used successfully for pétillant or frizzante wines (those with less intense effervescence). Carbonation also has the advantage of leaving the aroma and flavour characteristics of the base wine intact and thus it is suitable for aromatic or fruity sparkling wines. The base wine ideally needs to be of good quality, as any faults will be accentuated by bubbles.

In Brief

The terms Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Dry and Dry indicate the level of sugar and resulting sweetness in the wine – and they may not be what you think. Here’s a quick rundown from the least amount of sugar to the most:

Brut Nature/Zéro dosage = 0–3 g/L* of sugar

Extra Brut = 0–6 g/L of sugar

Brut = 0–12 g/L of sugar

Extra-Sec/Extra-Dry/Extra Trocken = 12–17 g/L of sugar

Sec/Secco/Seco/Dry/Trocken = 17–32 g/L of sugar

Demi-Sec/Semi-Seco/Medium-Dry/Halbtrocken = 32–50 g/L of sugar

Doux/Dulce/Sweet/Mild = 50+ g/L of sugar

In the Know

Piero Mastroberardino is not only a winemaker and the 10th generation for the aforementioned eponymous winery, he is also a full professor of Business Management and the author of numerous international scientific publications on management topics. He has also published two novels, Umano Errare and Giro di Vite, and two collections of poems, All’origine dei Sensi and Frammenti. But his artistry does not culminate on a ball-point, he is also a successful painter whose works have been exhibited in numerous solo and group exhibitions in Italy and abroad, and are showcased in national and international collections. You might even catch a few of his pieces on a label or two!

In the Room Where It Happened

Coming soon…

In the Hopper

I’m going to be hunkered down stateside for the next few months, but we’ve got lots to cover from Champagne to Rioja with a few side trips to France, Italy, and possibly even some Eastern European hot spots. Plus, stay-tuned for a forthcoming Holiday Gift Guide!

2019 Aljibes Cabernet Franc

Well, now. This was unexpected. A Spanish Cabernet Franc. Despite being a card-carrying Cabernet Francophile, this was a first for me, and a thrill. A good friend and fellow wine judge from overseas, knowing my predilection for this red wine variety and the rarity of it from the Iberian Peninsula, sent it my way. And oh my, my, my - am I glad he did. What a treat it was. This wine was smooth, unctuous, and captivating. It was floral, fruity, herbaceous, and exceedingly mineral-driven with a hint of bell pepper on the nose, but just a hint. The acidity and tannins were as synchronized as well-matched dance partners at full crescendo, and made for a satiating pairing with my caramelized onion and mushroom tart. And while it is more a bistro wine than a Michelin pour, for this Cab Franc fanatic it was a solid reminder why I love both this grape and wine in general: pure pleasure. Placer español. $15

2021 Trabucco Érre

Young Aglianico can be somewhat abrasive, if not just a bit much. I love it and won’t shy away, but I can also put away a glass of a youthful Sagrantino on a 90-degree summer day. I like my Italian reds bold and aggressive. But with that said, this 2021 Aglianico from the Campania region was truly agreeable. It’s ready to come out and play and make friends. You’ll still want some food with this dark-fruited, somewhat savory, powerhouse, but with its supple tannins there’s no patience required. Drink up. $26

Champagne Dehours & Fils Grande Reserve Brut

Looking for your house Champagne? Meunier leads the cast of characters for this ensemblage with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. A Meunier-focused house, Dehours knows how to make this dark and juicy grape own its prowess, even, if not especially so, in a blend. This is an aromatic sparkler with a vibrant mousse and classic, but elevated range of flavors with florals, minerality, citrus, orchard, and stone fruits, with a finish of pastry and orange peel. It’s incredibly nuanced for the style, with a bright and easy personality. It’s also everything you crave about Champagne, perfect for those mid-week cravings, at home Friday nights, or to kick-off the dinner party. No stopper necessary. $59

2020 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Chante-Alouette Blanc

Forget the PSL. This is the very essence of autumn in a bottle. It’s warm, rich, cozy, honeyed, nutty, and full of baked orchard fruits and herbal goodness. A 100-percent Marsanne from biodynamic vineyards in the Hermitage appellation of the Rhône, this beauty is textured, sensuous, and sapid. It’s a wine that creates presence and bonds, making it a fitting date night wine, alongside creamy pasta dishes, savory tarts, or even a roast with all the root veggie sides. But make sure to save a glass for an after dinner fireside snuggle. Cashmere. $130 (for vintage 2021)

In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

The Loire Valley is one of the more incredibly diverse wine appellations within France (and its third largest) with, at the time of this writing, 51 Appellations d’Origine Protégée (AOPs) and one IGP, the Val de Loire. The region runs from east to west along the Loire River from the Atlantic coast inland, and is generally grouped into four sub-regions (these are not appellations) including, from east to west, Nantes, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine, and the Central Vineyards. Given the vast expanse of the Loire, the climate varies from maritime to continental, and the elevations and soils are even more diverse; however, it can be categorized as a cool climate region generally producing wines of greater freshness and acidity, leaner body and lower alcohol.

There are no specific grapes or styles for the Loire Valley overall, rather these are defined by the sub-appellations where you’ll find still and sparkling wines, all shades of wine, and all levels of sweetness. The more renowned (or recognized) regions for white wines include Sancerre, Touraine, and Pouilly-Fumé (Sauvignon Blanc); Vouvray, Anjou, Saumur, and Savennières (Chenin Blanc); and Muscadet and Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Melon Blanc). And for the reds, it’s really all about the Cabernet Franc, of which there are 35,000 acres planted in appellations including Chinon, Bourgueil, Saumur-Champigny, Anjou, and Saumur. But if you do come across a Sancerre Rouge, that’s going to be Pinot Noir. And one of these days, I’ll dig into a few lesser known reds by the names of Pineau d’Aunis and Grolleau.

Winery of the Week

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, Domaine Bernard Baudry is quite possibly the best value in Chinon - and also my favorite producer. These Cabernet Francs are what this Loire lover’s dreams are made of - crunchy, juicy, red-fruited, silky, minerally, ethereal, and even a touch meaty. They satisfy the senses. I’ve reviewed several Baudry wines here and on the socials, and have certainly consumed many more. So, when we were on holiday in the Loire this summer, a stop at the Domaine was necessary, and it is one of the wine highlights of my life, if not the wine highlight.

As a little background, Bernard Baudry founded the Domaine in 1975 after planting a five acre vineyard. His son Matthieu joined the Domaine in 2000 after studying winemaking in California, New Zealand, and across France. They now have 80 acres of vineyards in Chinon, 90% of which are planted to Cabernet Franc with the balance being Chenin Blanc. The vineyards were converted to organic farming in 2006, and are found spread across the Chinon appellation in Cravant les Coteaux and Chinon. The vineyards are planted in a variety of soils including gravel in the valley areas, limestone and clay on the hills, and more sandy limestone on the plateaus. The grapes are hand-harvested and gravity fed into the cellar where they ferment with wild yeasts, each in separate plots in concrete, stainless, or oak. The Baudry’s refer to this as “piecemeal” winemaking, whereby they harvest and vinify grapes from each plot - and its unique soils - separately. The extraction (of color and tannin from the skins during fermentation) is gentle and only via pumpovers. There are no punchdowns. The wine then ages in unlined cement vats for the “soft” wines and in oak barrels for more structured wines. With the exception of the rosé, Chenins, and Les Granges, the wines are unfined and unfiltered. In layman’s terms, the actual “winemaking” is minimal in order to let the vineyard speak through the wine.

And speak these wines do. After a warm welcome by Matthieu, and tour of the caves, where the wines age, we tasted through 10 wines, nine of them Cabernet Franc. While I thoroughly enjoyed the Chenin (Le Domaine Blanc) and found Le Rosé to be among the more nuanced and exciting, I admit I spent the first few minutes of the tasting trying to get my excitement and incredulity about where I was under control. Thankfully, as soon as the familiar aromas of my favorite wine hit my nose, my attention was solidly and singularly focused. Of the reds, there are six Cabernet Franc labels, from six plots. Piecemeal. Beautiful, incredible, piecemeal. Each wine was paired with a discussion of its soils and the ways in which the soils influence the flavor, structure, and sensation of the wine. And yes, the differences were notable. At the end of the current release tasting, Matthieu blind tasted us on two additional wines from past vintages. The first challenge was to guess the label based on how the wine tasted and felt, to see if we could detect the soils’ influence and work our way back to the vineyard. We did (Le Clos Guillot and La Croix Boissée)! The second challenge was to guess the vintage. For Le Clos Guillot (2006) my husband came close, I did not. For La Croix Boissée (1996) I came close and he did not. It was a fascinating exercise in both terroir and ageability, whereby these wines unequivocally excel.

The wines:

Les Granges ($20) - from a terraced plot of sandy gravel

Le Domaine ($25) - 80% from a plateau plot on limestone and 20% from a sandy gravel plot

LesMollières ($28) - from a plateau plot with soils of yellow tuff, clay, and limestone

Les Grézeaux ($28) - from a parcel of clay, silex, and gravel

Le Clos Guillot ($34) - from slopes of yellow tuff, clay, and limestone

La Croix Boissée ($52) - from the mid-slope of the hill and soils of white tuff, clay, and limestone

My recommendations: Every. Single. One. Seriously. I’m not being cheeky here. It’s rare to have a tasting at which each wine is to your liking. Now granted, I am a Cabernet Franc fanatic, and the various Loire expressions are very much in my wheelhouse. However, as I’ve said before, they are not for everyone. But if they are for you, these wines are each worth getting to know, or at least picking up/ordering if you happen upon them. As for what came home, a mixed case of Le Domaine, Les Grézeaux, Le Clos Guillot, and La Croix Boissée.

I should also note, this being a cool climate region, vintage variation owing to weather is a thing and you can find a good breakdown of each on Baudry’s website. I’ve personally enjoyed 2006, 2010, 2011, 2015, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, and 2023 of the various labels and again have yet to be disappointed. In fact, I remain very much smitten.

Previous review (April 2024)

2020 Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux

Quite possibly the best value in Chinon. This wine is from old vines where the grapes are hand-harvested, fermented with wild yeasts with zero SO2 added during vinification, and it ages in large cement vats. Like most Chinon, it’s distinctive and not for everyone, but when I see Baudry on a list or a shelf, I pick it up - and pour it - immediately. They can age too, but why wait? Salient. $30

In Context

With around 35,000 acres of Cabernet Franc growing across the Loire Valley in varied soils and at different elevations, not to mention within the numerous micro-climates, the grape and resulting wines express with varied and distinctive characteristics. It’s most widely planted in Chinon, which represents 52% of the Loire Valley Cabernet Franc imported to the United States. Cabernet Franc is also the primary grape of Anjou, Anjou-Brissac, Anjou-Villages, Saumur, Saumur-Champigny, Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame, Bourgueil, and Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil. And while what follows isn’t a definitive guide to the grape or wines as they expressed in each region, as they will vary by vintage and producer, it can be a good starting point from which to explore.

Anjou - this regional AOC covers 1,975 acres and around 300 producers making wines noted for their freshness, juicy, and mineral qualities from the schist soils and more moderate climate.

Anjou Brissac - is a geographical area encompassing 10 communes around the village of Brissac. These wines express a more mineral quality and are often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon.

Anjou-Villages - is a selection of parcels split among 46 communes. It covers 370 acres with around 120 different winemakers. These fruit forward wines express more depth and structure.

Bourgueil - has 122 winemakers and 3,000 acres of vines. Here the Cab Franc is more light-bodied and crunchy from the more gravelly soils and more complex and structured on the limestone soils.

Chinon - the largest red wine producing appellation in the Loire, these Cab Francs will again range in style based on soil, but generally denote more savory flavors of raspberry, forest floor, black tea, and graphite with silky tannins.

Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil - Cab Franc is the flagship again here with typical notes of raspberries, strawberries, blueberries, peony, and violet, again with smooth, slender tannins.

Saumur-Champigny - the entire appellation is prized for its limestone soils and Cabernet Franc that is typically fruity and balanced with silky tannins and notable freshness. 90% of this region’s domaines have environmental certifications.

Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame - Located in the southern region of Saumur, these are well-structured and powerful Cab Francs with red and black fruits and long cellaring potential.

Saumur - encompassing 1,000 acres of Cab Franc in limestone and volcanic/Jurassic soils, these again range from light and easy, to more round and complex with notes of red and black berries, violets, herbs, gravel, and pyrazines.

In the Know

The most imported categories for Loire Valley wines into the United States are Vouvray (Chenin Blanc), Touraine Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc), and Crémant de Loire (traditional method sparkling wines from various grapes - and typically a fab value!).

While Loire reds have a long history with Cabernet Franc, as does nearby Bordeaux, its origins go back to northern Spain where similar forms of Cabernet Franc, first known as Biturica, have existed for centuries. Maybe all roads lead back to Spain?

Within the Interloire (which excludes the Central Vineyard region), there are 3,000 winegrowers, wine merchants, and cooperatives. There are also 540 estates managed by women!

In Living Color

Paris. There is no shortage on the number of recommendations, suggested tours, and itineraries for the City of Lights. And I am certainly not an expert. I can’t get the pronunciations in French right even some of the time. But what I can do, is eat and drink my way through a city in 24-48 hours, usually on foot, but occasionally on a scooter. Now, what follows is not my suggested itinerary if it’s your first time visiting Paris, but rather if you’ve already seen the “sights” and are looking for places to get your French wine and food fix without a mass of other tourists. And while you could fit these into any length of a stay and any itinerary, they are certainly fabulous when passing through en route to another destination or home, or if you’re only dipping in for a day or two.

Wine Bars

Le Barav - This is simply the best happy hour hang on the north side of the Seine. It also happens to be within easy walking distance of L’Aller Retour reco’d below. Arrive early to snag a streetside table, they fill quickly - with young, urban locals. The bottle shop is adjacent to the bar, and once you have a table you can pop in, browse, and buy. They’ll bring the delightfully crappy glasses to your rickety folding table and uncomfortable wood-slat chairs as smoke and conversation fill the air.

Bar a Vin (A Lot of Wine) - This is another must-stop for a pre-dinner glass or bottle with friends. The crowd here skews slightly older and a bit more refined than Le Barav. The bar is adjacent to the Seine, but the streetside cafe seating is on a more traffic-heavy thoroughfare. I’ve sat both inside and out, and found the city vibes equally energizing. The wine on offer is all natural and includes a great selection of Champagne. You can order from the menu, bar, or grab a bottle from the shelf which they’ll chill and open for you. Again, this is a wine bar that fills fast with locals and a few non-locals alike, so plan accordingly to ensure a seat.

Le Willi’s Wine Bar - This chic but easy-going wine bar filled with colorful bottle art posters offers both table and counter seating and has some of the more convenient hours, opening at noon. Willi’s serves both lunch and dinner, but remains open in between and as such became my midway stop on the way to my hotel after seeing the sights. It’s sort of a regroup and recoup destination. A glass here is best suited with quiet conversation, routing the evening’s stops on Google Maps, or a good book at the bar. And as an added bonus - they have espresso!

Bubble Bliss - And for when you’re over on the south side of the Seine, Bubble Bliss is a must. This stop is going to be a bit more touristy, but they specialize in all things Champagne - by the glass, by the bottle or for takeaway - so, it gets a pass. They also have a delectable menu where each dish is prepared in-house by a talented chef that knows how to pair with fizz. We chose a spot at the counter, but there is seating available as well. It’s a well-curated list and the staff are well-versed in the offerings, both the stories behind the labels, and how to best suit your personal taste.

Good Eats

Soces - My latest discovery thanks to a friend’s recommendation, Soces is now in my top three for best meals of all time. The Parisian brasserie with modern cuisine more heavily focused on seafood is in the 19th arrondissement, which means you’ll likely need to hop the subway or hail a cab, but it’s absolutely worth it. The atmosphere is buzzing with energy, the tables are packed in tight, the food coursed leisurely is next level, and the wine list is more than satisfactory. Soces makes for an unforgettable evening. Just don’t forget to make a reservation first.

L’Aller Retour Marais - This is one of my go-tos in Paris, a contemporary steakhouse with a neighborhood vibe. It also has one of the better wine lists I’ve come across. It’s not too big to be overwhelming and offers a balance between newer producers and the classics. While there are endless recommendations for that stereotypical French bistro experience and meal, I have yet to find better. The location is tucked away, the atmosphere is homey, and the staff is friendly and unobtrusive. No one will put on a show with chalkboards in English, try and force the cliché dishes on you, and they won’t rush your meal to turn the tables for the next wave of bookings. And I must say, they set an impossibly high bar for steak tartare.

Chonbou - This wine-centric restaurant and bottle shop in the 9th arrondissement has nearly 300 wines from the prestigious domaines to the lesser known gems. The menu is small but refined with creative dishes well-suited for pairing with the many organic, biodynamic, and natural wines available. There are four starters, four main courses, and four desserts, reflective of the season and local farm fresh finds, and the team will happily suggest a variety of wines for each. And when finished dining, or if there’s no time for a meal, the bottle shop offers a range of interesting wines not typically found stateside. Handy for a few of the “must-do's” below.

Must-dos

A Picnic in Jardin des Tuileries - While wine isn’t technically allowed in public parks, it is often tolerated if consumed discretely and respectfully (aka not drunken or slovenly), and from plastic cups versus glassware. I’ve enjoyed a cup on various walks through the Tuileries and in my opinion, there’s few more picturesque places for a little bubbly (or Cabernet Franc) and a baguette.

Walk/lounge on the Seine - and preferably with a bottle in tow. Stash a hotel glass or two in a backpack if you are particular, or just grab some disposable cups like I do, along with a few bottles - one of wine, one of water - and take a stroll down the Seine, sporadically stopping to pull the cork, pour, sit, and sip. While you can pick one spot to drain the bottle, I find it more fun to spend a few hours wandering and chatting with multiple wine (and water) breaks along the way. The occasional (French) kiss is also recommended.

The Passage des Panoramas - This is a great escape from the rain, but worth your time in any weather. The Passage des Panoramas was the first covered passageway in Paris built in 1799 and its home to numerous shops, eateries, and a theater.

The Abbey Bookshop - Alright, so this is a British establishment in Paris, but for those of us less versed in the romance languages, there are plenty of English titles and even more vintage finds. It’s an eclectic little space, and I do mean little - if you’re the least bit claustrophobic it’s best skipped - and worth 30 minutes to an hour of leisurely browsing. Plus, it’s close to Bubble Bliss!

Coffee - Caffeination is a must on short stays to fuel stops at all of the places that must be visited. The more hours that can be dedicated to the city versus sleep, the better. Life is too short to be wasted in a hotel room. And if a few years are taken off the end of my life for lack of sleep, well, it just means the more hours I spent staying awake seeing the world. As for where to grab that café au lait, anywhere. Seriously. In this case, the cheesier the better. Pick a hot spot, grab a brew, and take it all in. Then get back on your way to the food and wine.

In “Case” of Emergency

HEMA. This is a Dutch chain store with cheap household items, including hardcover suitcases. With numerous locations, it’s great in a suitcase emergency - like when an extra bag is needed to get home the several bottles of wine that simply could not be passed up. You can generally bring home an unlimited number of wine bottles for personal consumption - although this can vary by state - and up to 1 liter duty-free. The duty and taxes are typically low, but U.S. Customs and Border Protection officers usually waive the fees for a reasonable amount of extra bottles. My personal best - 24 bottles. And yes, that required an extra bag from HEMA.

In Production

Leveled up. The past several months I’ve been squeezing in studies to obtain my Rioja Wine Diploma from the Rioja Academy. Three things became clear to me throughout the process: 1) I forgot how much I love studying wine, 2) I really do love Spanish wine, 3) The amount of quality control that goes into every bottle of Rioja wine is both impressive and astounding. This is not a region that cuts corners, and it’s not one that is going to put its brand on a label unless the provenance and quality are proven. I’m going to have a lot to share about Rioja - its history, the wines, and its exciting future - but, first…

In the Hopper

The roads are leading me back to Spain. I’m taking that newly gained knowledge and certificate with me to Rioja!

“Dear Kristy,

Congratulations! We’re excited to let you know that you’ve made it to the final selection for the Rioja Camp. With nearly 200 applications from passionate and highly qualified professionals like yourself, this is an achievement to be proud of. The group will consist of 24 other wine experts from around the world working in various fields such as trade, hospitality, and wine education.”

I’m departing tomorrow (barring any flight cancellations) for the aforementioned Rioja Camp, a five-day immersion into the region, the wines, and visits with more than 15 producers. So, yes, there will be a lot of Rioja to come. And that’s not all. I’ve extended my stay to include Ribera del Duero, Rueda, and DO Madrid as well. Spain may not officially be in my DNA, but there’s no question it’s in my skin. Always. And I’m excited to soon share not only what I learn and taste, but also what inspires and drives my curiosity - hopefully it will yours too. Until next time…Salud!

It’s Halloween weekend 2005. I make my way down a blustery Michigan Avenue in Chicago surrounded by crowds of shoppers, diners, and costumed merrymakers. I walk quietly and alone, self-conscious in my ill-fitting cocktail dress and postpartum body. Thankfully my heels inspire a modicum of confidence. If there’s one thing I can do, it’s walk in heels, having practiced since I was 10 because I loved the damn things. Still do. But this scenario was not one I was accustomed to - no husband, no kid, no friends. I was alone on the Mag Mile on a Saturday night with nowhere to go, no car, and certainly no smartphone. I had just extracted myself from the wedding of Dracula and his black laced and sequined, winged bride. A seemingly odd, but celebratory affair. There was just one problem, I don’t do costumes. They’ve never been my thing, and not for any real reason. There’s no traumatic history or story to tell; although I’m sure a therapist could have a field day dissecting this one. Nevertheless, I made it through our friends’ nuptials, but not without panic welling up in my chest, after which the receiving line and reception were too much to ask, and so, I left. Discretely.

After about 30 minutes spent meandering shop windows, getting colder and more self-conscious by the minute, I knew I needed to grab some dinner. My husband was going to be hours at the reception, and I was not about to walk back into that celebratory den of darkness. Now, I could have found a pizza joint, bar, or any number of fast food options. I’m certain there was some sort of food court or atrium area inside of Water Tower Place. But this seemed like an opportunity.

Like many restless and dissatisfied 20-somethings, I was in the throws of a disgruntled quarter-life crisis, and had spent the better part of three years sporadically working my way through Julia Cameron’s The Artist Way. The book, still in print today, offers a 12-week program to unlock creativity, which she posited is blocked by fear, self-doubt, and a scarcity mindset. One of the suggested activities: Artist Dates. These were not scheduled writing times, or intended for anything other than taking oneself on a date - just as if someone else had asked you on one, except in this scenario, you ask yourself. And so, because I was not about to be a cheap date, I asked myself to a “fancy” dinner, that while I could technically afford, was definitely not in my budget.

It took me a few spins around the block before I mustered the confidence to walk through the front door, into the crowd of couples and groups waiting to be seated, and up to the host nervously squeaking, “Table for one, please.” The restaurant was packed, loud, and full of energy and yet, my inner dialogue was the only thing I could hear, What the fuck are you doing? I was seated in the back corner of a dimly, candle lit, side room facing into the entirety of the restaurant where I was sure everyone was staring at me. In hindsight, it was a perfect vantage point to see and not be seen. To observe. To take it all in.

I ordered the cheapest red wine by the glass. I knew I liked wine at that point - red wine, not white and definitely not bubbles - but I was also not the least bit educated in it. Still, I was in a French restaurant, wine seemed like the thing to do - and what a date would order - and so I did. I don’t recall what else I ordered that night. I remember being nervous about my budget and desperately uncomfortable sitting alone with no one to talk to, nothing to read, and locked in for at least 90 minutes. But I made it - through dessert and all. And feeling proud, I decided to continue the independent adventure and took a cab home where I envisioned a quiet night warming up in a candlelit bath - no husband, no toddler, just the safety of home and quiet. But as we know, not everything goes to plan, and after the cab drove away, I stood at my front door rummaging through my purse, before dumping its entire contents on the front stoop in search of my keys. I was locked out. And that’s where I remained, freezing, crying, and tucked as far into my coat as I could in a little ball inside my downstairs’ neighbor’s three-season porch for the last hour of my date.

But what that 20-something in her poor fitting dress (and killer shoes), with what she was sure were frivolous charges on her credit card, didn’t realize as she sat feeling defeated, stupid, probably a little irritated, and definitely exhausted, was that she had just been on the most impactful date of her life. And she most certainly did not foresee or even predict that 20 years later, from a half empty table for two at a Michelin restaurant, a continent away, a glass of Sangiovese di Romagna, raised in front of watery eyes and a proud smile, would be raised confidently, and proudly, in her honor.

In My Glass

2022 Loop de Loop Chardonnay

Add this to the list of wines I’ve bought more than once. Living and working in Willamette Valley, I had heard mention of Loop de Loop wines in Columbia Gorge. They apparently have a Cabernet Franc that folks say has my name on it. So, when I was recently offered a sample taste of their Chardonnay at a local wine bar, I jumped at the chance, and after which, I immediately bought a glass. This wine is popping, silky, bursting with orchard fruits and lemon curd with a notable mineral finish. I have very specific Chard taste, and this fit. So much so, I bought a bottle to go too. Now, I just need to go find that Cab Franc cuz I’m definitely more intrigued. There’s no shortage of fab Chardy in the Willamette Valley, but this Valley-adjacent Washington bottle comes at a much more palatable price and dare I say, could stand up to even a White Burg or two. Sent for a loop. $29

2022 Eugenio Collavini Pucino Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso Colli Orientali del Friuli

I’m still on my light-bodied red from Northern Italy kick. It’s hard not to crave a lean, spicy, crunchy, chillable chugger - though maybe don’t really chug it. Refosco is a variety I came to discover in Veneto last year, and when I can get my hands on some, I do. It’s exceedingly food friendly, lower in alcohol, and as comforting as sitting back under a blanket watching a tv show from a basic cable channel of your childhood with a bowl of your favorite pasta. And while I do enjoy the less refined versions of this variety, Collavini’s bottling brings a subtle finesse and certain depth. Red fruits with threads of dried herbs woven across the mid-palate and ahead of the bright, fruity finish make this a wine to tune into any night of the week. Press play. $20

2017 Symington Quinta do Ataíde

As previously noted, I don’t do costumes. But that’s not to say I can’t still enjoy the spooky season, and a scary movie pairs exceptionally with a wine of dark and brooding character. Black and dried fruits, leather and wood make their presence known ahead of a spicy, smooth finish, all of which call for stew, chili, or a good ol’ cheeseburger, just make sure not to have a mouthful ahead of that inevitable on-screen jumpscare. You know it’s coming. A thriller. $27

2020 Ronchi di Castelluccio “Ronco della Simia”

The Monkey Wine. This wine lingers. On the palate. In your mind. A Sangiovese di Romagna - floral, red-fruited, savory, mineral, juicy, dusty, and damn near addictive. I had a taste and needed more. I still need more. It renders my monkey brain singularly focused. And it’s why four bottles of this wine made it home in my suitcase after buying an extra duffle bag for clothes. But that’s not the story behind the prehistoric primate on the label whose fossils were discovered in the Romagna region, the same region where a US soldier opted to stay with his regiment’s beloved pet monkey after the War, and which was lovingly buried somewhere near the vineyard. Regardless, I still need more. Lust. $140

In the Spotlight

Wine Region(s) of the Week

A few weeks ago, I found myself for the second time in Emilia-Romagna, Italy, and what I immediately observed is that it has a vast range of topography, microclimates, soil deposits, and even subtle cultural differences across its two DOCGs, 19 DOCs, and nine IGPs. Today, I want to dig further into Emila-Romagna’s Romagna DOC, which lies in the eastern portion of Emilia-Romagna and encompasses around 8,700 acres stretching from just east of Bologna to the Adriatic Coast and the village of Rimini. The DOC was established in 2011 and engulfed the five previous DOCs within its borders: Cagnina di Romagna, Pagadebit di Romagna, Romagna Albana Spumante, Sangiovese di Romagna, and Trebbiano di Romagna. It did not, however fold in its only DOCG, the Albana di Romagna DOCG, which remains embedded, yet separate.

The Romagna DOC has a subtropical climate with hot summers and year-round rainfall, including the common occurrence of thunderstorms. As such, powdery and downy mildews can be a challenge for the region, but can also be partially mitigated by the cooling winds from the Adriatic which help to moderate the temperatures and keep things dry. Many of the DOC’s best vineyards are found southeast of Bologna at higher elevations which provide more protection from humidity, greater UV exposure, and soils with better drainage. The soils vary across the region and range from alluvial and sand to clay, sandstone, and marl. Sangiovese dominates production for the red grapes with Albana and Trebbiano making up the majority of the white varieties. Other grapes approved in the DOC include Centesimino, Cagnina (Refosco), and Terrano for the reds, and Garganega, Grechetto, and Pagadebit (Bombino Bianco) for the whites. Small plantings of international varieties including Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon can also be found.

Now, let’s delve a little deeper into the Romagna DOC and look specifically at the Albana di Romagna DOCG and one of its Sangiovese di Romagna subzones, Modigliana. The Albana di Romagna DOCG sits in the southwest of Romagna and is solely based on the white wines of Albana, the first white grape to receive DOCG classification in 1987. Albana is a very ancient variety grown primarily around Spungone Romagnolo, a rocky outcrop of the Apennines Mountains that extends east from Bologna to the Adriatic Sea. The area features rolling hills, a mixture of rocky, limestone, and chalk based soils, and a hot, dry Mediterranean climate moderated by cooling breezes from the Adriatic Sea. The DOCG permits dry and sweet (passito and riserva passito) styles of which the dry wines are typically light to medium-bodied with good acidity and will be vinified in either stainless, concrete or oak, with some opting for skin-contact versions in clay amphora. Its characteristics typically include sweet and yellow floral aromatics with various fruit flavors, firm tannins from its thick skins, and a notable salinity.

Now for Modigliana, Romagna, Italy, which might be my new favorite destination with its small, quiet mountain villages, abundant forests, mountainous landscapes, hiking trails, and yes, its food and wines. Modigliana consists of three valleys along the Ibola, Tramazzo, and Acerreta streams in the Romagna DOC. The region sits at elevations between 1,000 to 1,650 feet and is surrounded by lush (and protected) forests. It is largely influenced by the Adriatic sea to the east and the Apennines to the west. The forests and soils are key to the wine styles here with the trees lending a cooling influence during the growing season. The vineyards in the Modigliana, in fact, are practically enclosed by the woods creating a unique and vast biodiversity - one in which the vines and trees are practically integrated. The soils here are a mix of sandstone and marl developed over millions of years and where Sangiovese tends to thrive on the steep, rocky slopes.

While I observed many differences across the Emilia-Romagna region, and there are many more yet to discover, I did want to briefly note what I did find to be synonymous thanks to Taste the Difference: Quality wines from the heart of Europe: the absolute deliciousness of its foods and cuisines. Chef’s kiss!

Wineries of the Week

Born in New Orleans and raised between the US and Switzerland, brothers Paolo and Aldo Rametta moved to Romagna to fulfill their dreams of working together and returning to their familial origins. They also wanted to showcase the area’s food and wine, which is how they came to find Poggio della Dogana and its 35-year-old vineyards in 2017. The Poggio della Dogana estate sits at an altitude between 590 to 1,000 feet above sea level, between the Tuscan-Romagnolo Apennines and the Adriatic coast, which is only 18 miles away. The 50 acres of vineyards are found in two distinct areas: Castrocaro and Brisighella. In Castrocaro, the soil is dominated by brown and ochre clays and the sea breezes coming from the Adriatic coast are pronounced, but in nearby Brisighella, the soils are comprised of marl and sandstone, with veins of sand and clay, which lend an unmistakable saline finish to the wines. The Poggio della Dogana vineyards are farmed organically and only planted to native varieties, including Sangiovese, Albana, and Trebbiano.

The second winery project for the Rametta brothers began with their purchase of Ronchi di Castelluccio in 2020. I previously featured this winery in April of this year, but it’s worth a revisit now that I’ve actually walked the grounds. The vineyards and winery were originally founded in the early 1970s by film director Gian Vittorio Baldii who had visions of creating terroir-driven wines from this unique, high-elevation land in Romagna. Ronchi di Castelluccio covers an area of about 500 acres with 27 planted to vine in soils of sandstone and marl that denote a “memory of the sea.” The vines are rooted at high elevations between 820 and 1600 feet, where trees out number the vines four to one, and where five donkeys, six alpaca, 30 sheep and a herd of 150 cattle are also found happily grazing. The winery situated on-site is where Winemaker Paola Antonello and Consulting Winemaker Francesco Bernini process the grapes for both Ronchi di Castelluccio and Poggio della Dogana wines. As for the wines, there is a white wine of Sauvignon Blanc, but my attention went to the range of Sangiovese processed as single-plot wines to showcase the distinctive terroirs - two of which I’ve also previously reviewed (and raved about). These are boldly structured reds, with fruity and savory notes, bright acidity, notable complexity, and an ethereal rustic elegance. They beg for food and pair well with rich pastas, Bolognese, mushrooms, meats, or even roast harvest squash dishes.

Now, if you think you know Sangiovese after drinking your fave Tuscan wines, it’s time to open your mind and mouth for Sangiovese from Romagna. These wines are an utter delight, representative of a passionate vision, detailed dedication, and I can also say from personal experience, certainly of place.

Restaurant of the Week

Everyone will have their opinion when it comes to Italian cuisine, but for me Emilia-Romagna is tops. I previously shared one of my favorite meals in Bologna at Ahimè, a modern more vegetarian take on local cuisine. Today, I want to highlight what was one of the best experiences I’ve had when it comes to authentic local fare. It can be tricky to find these spots. More times than I can count, I’ve experienced places with high ratings for both food and ambiance that end up being (or becoming) grossly catered to the tourist crowds. One oft recommended establishment in Paris comes to mind. Thankfully, however, every now and again, a wonderful little place comes recommended or is randomly stumbled upon that boasts not only high ratings, but also an atmosphere as authentically local as the dishes served up from the kitchen, and Trattoria Da Me in Bologna was one such place. While there were certainly tourists seated throughout, Italian conversations dominated - and frankly, that was music to my ears.

Da Me was established before WWII in 1937. Today, the founder’s granddaughter Elisa is at the helm and holding fast to the traditions of her family: pastas homemade daily, Bolognese lasagna on Sundays, and local flavors at the core of it all. I chose to dine at lunch knowing I was going to consume mass quantities of food and would want to spend the rest of the day walking it off. I made a reservation for 2 p.m. and the place was bustling with servers and guests, chatter, and the clanking of silverware on dishes, co-mingling with mouth-watering aromas lingering in the air, and a cozy, cottage-core meets taverna-style atmosphere. I was seated at a small table for two with a view of the comings and goings at the front as well as the center of the dining area - which I now know is the ideal spot to soak it all in (see and not be seen). The service was kind, attentive, and the recommendations they made for each course were spot on. For the starter I chose the Al Contadino Non Far Sapere, a dish of Gorgonzola creme caramel with radicchio, braised in red fruits and pear sauce with tapioca wafers. I then chose the traditional Tagliatelle al Ragu for the primi and the Viaggiando, a fried maitake mushroom in gravy with roasted pumpkin, Jerusalem artichoke cream, pumpkin seed hummus and citrus caviar for the secondi. And to close out the meal I chose the Tartelleta, with caramelized apple, cream cheese, cinnamon, and walnuts. If Elisa’s goal is to showcase a complex and complementary array of flavors, Da Me accomplishes just that. Each dish was a kaleidoscope of sweet, savory, bitter, sour, salty, and even a few hints of umami across soft, chewy, crunchy, and crisp textures - aka ultimate satisfaction.

Of course the wine list did not disappoint either. I chose to stick local and started with a glass of sparkling, Il Pigro Metodo Classico Dosaggiozero from Cantine Romagnoli in Piacenza, and then followed that up with a bottle of Sangiovese di Romagna, “Il Sasso” from Tenuta Pertinello (of which half was donated back to the staff since I was flying solo). And I must say, what grows together, does indeed go together. Molto buono!

In the Room Where It Happened

This week a good friend and I ventured to the Coast (we don’t say “beach” in Oregon) for a dose of waves, sand, and exercise. Originally hailing from the Midwest, having an ocean within a 45-minute drive is still a novel concept. What’s even more incredible to me is that parking and beach access are free - and the public restrooms are clean! Now that said, it is typically fairly windy and requires multiple layers because the weather conditions often alter by the hour (if not half-hour). This isn’t a place you go to lay in the sun, but rather leisurely stroll, fly a kite, or toss around some form of flying object be it a disk or a prolate spheroid-shaped pigskin. And it is frankly quite stunning - every season and in any weather. I try to make it to the coast at least once a month to walk, work, hike, or drive, and while I love the cheeky shops, cafes and seafood options, the ability to find a decent bottle of wine to enjoy on the beach, or with a picnic post-hike, or even while dining, has been near impossible and often abysmal. Well, not anymore thanks to Shawn and Michelle Horsey who recently opened Sea Horsey Bottle Shop in Lincoln City, Oregon. This quaint little street-front spot, evoking the spirit of its original corner mercantile, is part bottle shop, part wine bar offering by the glass pours of PNW wines with a small menu of snacks, sandwiches, cheeses, and desserts. Guests can also purchase a bottle from the shop and enjoy it while snacking for a minimal corkage fee. The bottle selection is personally curated by the husband-wife duo and focuses solely on small, well-crafted PNW wines with a few local brews, and low to no-alc options thrown in.

I was thrilled to find Sea Horsey open on a Monday, one of the more difficult days to find a spot for lunch or dinner, and that they had a little wood-burning stove fireplace for both warmth and ambiance. The decor is “fisherman coastal,” but more modern-cozy, minimalistic than tacky. There are artistic touches throughout, red and white striped pillows, retro chairs, and fresh flowers. Shawn and Michelle are truly a delight and well-versed in the story behind each of the wines they sell - because they only sell what they will drink. And let me tell you, they have some seriously good taste. A few of my top threes from the Willamette Valley were repping. (I may have come home with yet another bottle of Arabilis sparkling wine of which I’d say I was a hoarder, but I open them too often to build a collection.) So, if you find yourself at the Coast, are planning a trip to the Coast, or live locally, Sea Horsey is a must. It’s a much-needed local wine experience both outside of and complementary to the Valley.

In the News

Last year I attended the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri Awards in Rome. Think red carpets, media screens, photographers, trophies, proud and grateful speeches, all from a theater in the heart of the capital city. It’s not unlike the Emmys or Oscars, and in fact, is often considered the Oscars of Italian wine. Each year a 70-person team of Gambero Rosso tasters sources approximately 40,000 wines from across Italy from which they award three, two, and one cup (bicchieri) ratings as well as announce their Special Awards. The 39th edition of the Vini D’Italia was officially released this month at this year’s event in Rome and features reviews of the 2,300 finalists, including the 508 “Tre Bicchieri” winners, selected for 2026.

Of particular note to me (and fitting for this issue), this year’s guide marks the first time that the wines of Emilia have been distinguished from those of Romagna, reflecting the differing terroirs, grape varieties, and winemaking styles of these distinctive northern Italian regions. This year also saw the introduction of a new category, Young Producers of the Year. As for the 2026 guide’s Special Awards recipients, the winners are:

• Young Producers of the Year: Davide Zoppi and Giuseppe Luciano Aieta – Cà du Ferrà

• Award for Sustainable Viticulture: Antonelli – San Marco

• Red Wine of the Year: Brunello di Montalcino 2020 – Giodo

• White Wine of the Year: Roero Arneis Renesio Incisa Riserva 2020 – Monchiero Carbone

• Sparkling Wine of the Year: Franciacorta Brut Nature 2021 – Bosio

• Rosé Wine of the Year: Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Baldovino 2024 – Tenuta I Fauri

• Sweet Wine of the Year: Lina Passito 2023 – Santa Barbara

• Solidarity Project Award: Nino Caravaglio

• Emerging Winery: Torre Zambra

• Best Value for Money: Cirò Bianco Mare Chiaro 2024 – Ippolito

• Winemaker of the Year: Francesco Carfagna – Altura

• Cooperative Winery of the Year: La Guardiense – Janare

• Winery of the Year: ABFV Italy – Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards

In Brief

It’s official. Champagne has added an eighth approved grape to its appellation specifications. “Chardonnay Rose” or “Pink Chardonnay” will be joining Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Meunier, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Petit Meslier, and Arbane as an authorized variety. Chardonnay Rose is a rare and natural genetic mutation of the Chardonnay grape variety with pink grape skins. It was first discovered on scattered vines in the early 1900s and it was added to France’s catalog of wine grape varieties in 2018, after which point it was allowed to be propagated. Although plantings remain few, the Comité Champagne hopes that by adding the grape to the authorized list, it will encourage its proliferation. The grape itself generally resembles its parent grape in that it buds early, grows vigorously, and produces wines with moderate acidity and a medium body (depending on the region, vine management, and winemaking) and tends to showcase citrus flavors.

In the Know

Other new grapes have also spawned from natural genetic mutations, including a few of Champagne’s other authorized varieties. Pinot Noir once mutated to create the lighter skinned Pinot Gris, which then mutated further to create Pinot Blanc. Incidentally, Chardonnay is also the result of a random cross-pollination between Pinot Noir and the white grape Gouais Blanc.

In Good Conscience

This is the first in a series of highlights, write-ups, and potentially even a few features that will showcase the people, places, and things that are in some way making an effort to improve the environment. For the inaugural, though not entirely regular column, I’m going to delve into a somewhat controversial, if not polarizing, space: Boxed Wines.

Now, I know that will turn some of you away, and that’s okay. But for those of you willing to trust me, this is a great, sustainable, and cost-effective way to enjoy a random (and refreshing) single-glass pour any night of the week. It’s also a cost-effective option for parties and gatherings - or on any occasion where you might be inclined to buy a bunch of random, nondescript bottles from the grocery store or even Costco to serve to friends and family that enjoy wine but are generally non-discerning.

Generally speaking, boxed wines can hold up to three liters (or four bottles of wine). They represent half the carbon footprint of glass bottles and can stay fresh up to 90 days after they are opened. Now, I will say not all boxed wines are created equal. There’s some definitive crap on the market - a few of which even looking at will give me a headache - but here are a few that I’ve personally tasted (on opening and again weeks and months later) and that I recommend with confidence.

Domaine Bousquet Chardonnay: I had faith this might not be your ordinary bag-in-box wine owing to the fact that I’ve previously enjoyed this Argentine producer’s bottled labels. And it’s not. It’s good. I don’t drink wine that’s not good. Life is too short. It was also consistently good - day after day, week after week. It’s an easy, crisp, dry and organic Chardonnay that’s full of orchard blossoms, green apples, and lime zest with a hint of green herbs. Translation it’s a simple crowd-pleaser - one even the anti-Chardonnay crowd just might dig - and it’s only $25 for the 3-liter box. That’s basically around $6/bottle!

Alileo Wines: From the west coast of Sicily come these 1.5-liter (two bottles) recycled cardboard bag-in-box wines. Alileo was founded by Antonio Bertone and Alexandra Drane who produce the wines in partnership with Ationio’s family in Sicily. I’ve tried the skin-contact white wine from Zibibbo (aka Muscat de Alexandria) and the Syrah. Each of the wines were fruit forward, clean, and absolutely easy drinking. They didn’t have the over-produced or artificial flavors of many big named boxed wines, nor did they leave me with any lingering headaches. Rather, these were downright enjoyable and the wines remained fresh for the eight-plus weeks they lasted. $20

Patelin de Tablas Rosé: This is consistently one of my favorite rosés every year and Tablas Creek offers it in a 3-liter bag-in-box. It’s a bit pricier than the aforementioned options, so maybe save this one for your more wine particular friends - or yourself! A blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Rolle, and Counoise, this is an aromatic, creamy pink drinker with fresh cut flowers, raspberries, and stone fruits. It’s hands-down the burger and brat pull for summertime, but will work year-round with your fave rosé fare. It sells out fast, so when the new vintage launches, jump on it. $105

Holiday inspo: Take a bag of wine from the box and place it inside of a hollowed out, large jack-o-lantern. Place the dispenser at the mouth hole, keg style, and you’re all set to pour out some holiday fun one glass at a time.

In the Hopper

Solo travel isn’t always romantic. While there are many hours spent writing at cafes, wandering cobblestone corridors and marble-floored art museums, and dining both tableside or on the steps of a piazza, there are equally as many hours metaphorically spent locked out on the front porch of a three-flat with nothing but lipstick and dead cell phone. But, dozens of solo trips later, it always and simultaneously pushes me out of my comfort zone, heightens all of my senses, resets, and recharges. And it certainly fuels my writing. I fall in love, break my heart, get scared, embarrass myself, get lost, laugh unexpectedly, dance on occasion, and often still have to search for confidence. I am constantly and consciously inspired.

Travel is a powerful (and seductive) muse, and solo adventures, well, they are now an integral part of my DNA. And so, I’ve got one more issue here before I take to the skies seeking further inspiration on my next wine and vine-laden adventure. And yes, I’ll be packing heels. But before the suitcases come back out of the closet to the disappointment of my cats, I’ll be featuring one of my top five red grapes, my absolute favorite producer of said variety, its home region, and how to enjoy 48-hours worth of wine travels in Paris.

M Côté Mas Crémant Brut

This was easily one of the more pleasurable pours this week. It was zesty, zippy, and laced with zeal. It’s not overly serious. It’s just delicious, easy, and will brighten up your day. Seriously, I popped this one open on a Monday night, post-work, with sushi takeaway and I remember at one point looking at my husband and saying, “This is just really friggin’ good.” If you’re looking for bubbles to keep on-hand for that “whenever, whatever” occasion, or to lift your spirits at the start of a work week, this traditional method has your name it. Whenever. $12

2022 Umani Ronchi Castelli di Jesi Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio

I love a good white wine in the autumn season, particularly with seasonal risottos, squash soups, or creamy mushroom pastas, and this is a better than good white wine from some relatively old vines over 50 years in age. It’s concentrated and brimming with personality. Every time I brought my nose to the glass, I discovered something new and most certainly inviting. This wine has received numerous Tre Bicchieri awards (Italy’s equivalent of a wine Oscar), which is no small accomplishment. And scoring this enticing elixir for sub-fifty seems an accomplishment to me as well. In Verdicchio Veritas. $45

2011 R. López De Heredia, Viña Tondonia Reserva

Oh, Spain. (Deep sigh.) Spanish wines, particularly those of Rioja, hit my palate with such intensity of emotion and sensory elation. It’s partly that expression of its rustic, rugged origins, but it’s also the profound sense of soul Spain has ingrained in my skin. My personal adoration for this region aside, this is a delicious bottle, representative of all things Rioja - red fruits and leather with a captivating savory undertone. The 2011 I experienced this last week was drinking at its peak with the fruits giving way to more earthy tertiary flavors. Much longer and this bottle would have been past its prime. I generally think Rioja, and López De Heredia wines, can age longer (often significantly so), but it can be largely dependent on how the bottles are stored. My guess is this one was not held in ideal conditions, and a more properly stored 2011, may still have some time left. That said, you’ll hear no complaints from me about this beauty going down with my cheesy smashburger and fries. Got Lucky. $48

In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

The Ica Valley of Peru was first planted by the Spanish in the 1540s, shortly after they conquered the Incan Empire. It was a successful region for wine with nearly 100,000 acres of vines, supplying wine to much of South America and even back to Spain. That success, however, was ultimately not well received by Spain which in a protectionist measure, banned exports in order to protect its own domestic wine production. The Ica Valley then turned its grape growing focus toward making Pisco (an unaged brandy distilled from fermented grape juice). Today it remains one of the five areas within the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for Pisco, but there is also a small wine grape growing and making community among the 10,000 growers across 13,600 acres of vineyards.

The Ica Valley, located 185 miles south of the Peru’s capital of Lima, is one of the world’s driest wine regions with an average of less than an inch of rain per year. Yes, you read that right. Less than an inch per year. The Ica River, which created the Valley, runs - typically dry - from the highlands in Huancavelica to the Pacific Ocean. That said, the region does take advantage of its mosaic of beneficial soils, the influences of the sea and wind, and more than 300 days of sun per year to benefit vine growth and grape development. Given the region’s lack of water, the vine’s roots must dig deeper for nutrients, resulting in lower grape yields and greater concentration with notable minerality. The Ica Valley’s position at the 14^th parallel of the Southern Hemisphere - in other words, very near the equator - also means that the grapes receive a high level of ultraviolet light lending to increased phenolics as the grapes ripen. As for that oceanic influence, as the Humboldt Current travels up the Pacific Coast from southern Chile, it brings cooling winds which help to keep the clouds at bay for maximum sun exposure, as well as drops the overnight temperatures which preserves the grapes’ natural acidity as they ripen.

The majority of the region’s vines are planted in the Valley along the riverbanks and irrigation channels as access to water is essential for vine health. The soils here are more sandy with limestone distributed throughout. By contrast, the highest vineyards in the Ica Valley sit around 1,650 feet above sea level in rocky soils with significant amounts of calcium carbonate. Grape varieties planted for wine are typically the big international players including Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc among others. However, the majority of vines planted remain dedicated to Pisco varieties from the Muscat family.

Winery of the Week

As I previously mentioned, the Ica Valley is home to a small number of wine grape growers and makers, some of which have been making Peruvian wine for centuries, including Viñas Queirolo. In 1877, the Queirolo family emigrated from Italy to Peru, bringing with them a history in viticulture and winemaking. Just more than a decade after arriving, the Queirolos established Taberna Queirolo in Lima and began successfully producing both wine and Pisco. The family remained in Lima until 1960 when rapid urban growth ground the city’s wine industry to a halt and the family relocated their vineyards to the Cañete Valley south of Lima. Then in 2002, the third generation including Santiago, Jorge, and Francisco Queirolo, expanded the family’s vineyard holdings into the Ica Valley from which they launched a new brand, Intipalka, in 2008.

Intipalka, which translates to “valley of the sun” in the Incan language of Quechua is named for the Incan god of the sun, Inti. The aforementioned third generation Jorge Queirolo sits at the helm of the agriculture and winery team at Intipalka where he has tapped the talent of two esteemed Argentine winemakers to harness the best expressions of the Ica Valley: Winemaking Consultant Alejandro “El Colo” Sejanovich and Head Winemaker Luis Gomez. El Colo, a renowned winemaker, was named the 2021 Winemaker of the Year by Master of Wine Tim Atkin and is best known for the highly-regarded Manos Negras, Estancia Uspallata, and Teho & Zaha wines from Argentina. Luis Gomez was brought to Viñas Queirolo/Intipalka for his talent at capturing a place of origin in his wines. He began his career as a winemaker for Finca La Celia, but most recently gained notoriety for his role as Chief Winemaker for Bodegas Caro (Catena – Rothschild/Lafite).

Together, Jorge Queirolo, El Colo, and Luis Gomez, each convinced of the Ica Valley’s ability to produce top internationally marketed wines, are making terroir-focused wines at Intipalka through both technical innovation in the vineyards and minimal intervention in the cellar. In the vines they are experimenting with white clay sprays to protect the vines from the sun’s harshest rays as well as various canopy management techniques to provide greater shade to the clusters as they ripen. They are also building a new microvinification facility in Ica Valley where they will focus on deriving the highest quality and expression from this Valley’s vineyards. Additionally, Intipalka has been investing in small tanks and various sizes of untoasted French oak barrels from multiple cooperages to allow the wines to express more fruit and less oak. Today, Intipalka has more than 1700 acres of vines and is producing more than one million liters of wine each year. They have found a particularly marked expression of place in Malbec and Tannat, as well as Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, all of which are sold in various US markets. And as for things to watch, Intipalka is also now bottling an indigenous varietal line that includes wines from the native grapes of Negra Criolla, Quebranta, and Torontel. Consider me intrigued!

In the Moment

I first discovered Intipalka wines nearly five years ago when I had the opportunity to taste their single-varietal Malbec and Sauvignon Blanc wines. At the time, I was deep diving into Argentine wines - and particularly the various expressions of Malbec - and I remember being fascinated by the very different characteristics of it coming from Peru’s Ica Valley. Here’s what I wrote in 2021:

An unoaked Malbec, Intipalka’s entry level red, but don’t let that fool you - it’s definitely not one dimensional. The very particular nose on this wine was fascinating! It was completely laden with fresh thyme and red fruits. And on the palate - florals, fruits, a hint of that thyme, a smoky meatiness, and a solid structure with refreshing acidity. One to open within a few years for sure, but also one you won’t be disappointed with now. Overall I’m excited about wines from Peru and Intipalka’s Ica Valley. These are distinctive, well-crafted, and a terrific value. Now I’m set to find their No. 1 - Malbec/Tannat blend.

Fast forward to this week, and guess what? I found not only their No. 1 Gran Reserva, but also their Chardonnay, the newest vintage of their Malbec, and the 2022 Reserva, and they are equally as fascinating. In fact, the red wines all have a common throughline of minerality, which I can only assume is specific to the site. They each were also extraordinarily complex with a wide range of flavors including florals, fruits, herbs, spices, and minerals. I would not say they have a refined sense of finesse or elegance, but they all have length, character, and drinkability - and they all come in between 13% and 13.5% ABV. They are also incredibly food friendly. As I was tasting them, I had a plethora of recipe ideas from grilled white fish and roast chicken, to beef & bean chili and grilled steaks streaming through my mind. While the wines are all produced from international varieties, it would not be fair to compare these to wines of French or even Argentine or Chilean origin. They have certain aromas and flavors characteristic of the grape/wine varieties, but they are most certainly unique to their origin, and I think, would be both welcomed and of interest on any dinner table.

2023 Intipalka Chardonnay - If you like a stainless steel, lighter style of Chardonnay, this is right up your alley. In fact, it’s a nice gateway to the more opulent styles as it’s still brimming with orchard fruits (particularly quince), has a soft herbal note, lemon zest, and herbs. $14

Between the 2023 Malbec ($12), the 2022 Intipalka Reserva (70% Cab Sauv/30% Petit Verdot $18), and the 2019 No. 1 Gran Reserva (45% Malbec, 25% Tannat, 20% Cab Sauv, and 10% Petit Verdot), my personal favorite was the No. 1 Gran Reserva with its dark and tart red fruits, savory minerals, and coffee notes. I also enjoyed the other reds, which are available in the states, the Reserva had the most interesting character with red fruits, herbs, earth, spices, and minerality. It also had a lengthy finish and was begging for a hearty steak, cooked rare to medium-rare. The Malbec was the easiest of the bunch with the most generous of fruit flavors. Think tomato-based stews, chilis, or pastas for this one.

In the Room Where It Happened

I’ve written a lot about the Chinese wines presented at Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, but this week, I want to focus on another region that was heavily represented at this years Red & White Session. Overall the wines increasing in submissions to Concours Mondial in the last few years tend to come from countries whose wine regions are newly emerging or are lesser known in the marketplace, which makes sense as they try to seek greater recognition and credibility. I’ve personally tasted numerous wines from this region, including those submitted to the CMB in the last two years as well as at regional tastings, and in my local restaurants and wine bars, and in my personal view they are significantly increasing in quality. They just need a bit more name recognition - or regional education, because I’ll be honest, the names can be tough. As for that region, I’m referring to the country of Portugal.

In the last four Red & White CMB sessions, a total of 3,505 Portuguese wines have been reviewed. They rank 4th in volume submitted behind Spain, France, and Italy - all of which, as I previously wrote, are reducing in their number of submissions. Portugal, however, is holding steady. They also brought home an average of 308 medals over the past four sessions between 2022 and 2025. By comparison the big three (Spain, France, and Italy) submitted roughly 33% more wines on average than Portugal in that same time period, but took home only 20% more medals on average. That’s definitely interesting to note. I also found it interesting that in 2024, three out of seven of the Portuguese wines I tasted would have received a medal, based on the points I gave, but in 2025, 12 out of 15 of the Portuguese wines I tasted would have medaled, again based on my personal point rankings. Granted, these were three different regions, but on average the wines from the Douro would have taken home golds from me.

Now, I’ll note this is a pretty basic analysis based on limited data and reference points. But I can also anecdotally note that I have personally observed increasing quality as well as personal pleasure in wines - of all styles - from this Iberian country. The reds once thought to be too tannic and/or rustic, are showing increasing finesse and complexity. The whites often written off as easy-going, crowd-pleasing, or non-descript acid bombs, are likewise, increasingly demonstrating range, texture, complexity, and even, dare I say, serious ageability. Now, this isn’t to say there have never been high-quality wines from Portugal. Certainly not. I’m just saying, I think there are far more of them - and perhaps far more finally making it to our continent. And I believe they are worth exploring and even adding to a regular rotation. That said, the challenge again will be the language barrier, which is why regional education and a basic understanding of style by region will be of increasing importance for those selling Portuguese wines. Perhaps I’ll have to begin diving in further here. What do you think? In the meantime, if you’re looking for a great introduction to the wines and regions of Portugal, check out the book by John Sumners, There’s More Than Port in Portugal - The Unpretentious Guide to Portuguese Wine (previously reviewed in July 2024). It’s a great place to start if you’re even a little bit curious about wines from this Iberian hot spot.

In Brief

Two brief notes this week: first, speaking of Portugal, an Alvarinho worth seeking out, and second, an Albariño revisited.

2024 João Portugal Ramos Alvarinho Vinho Verde DOC

This bright white, is textural, aromatic, and boasts notes of white florals with intense bursts of lime and peach. It has a subtle minerality and a long, pleasant finish. Talk about versatile too - this could pair with seafood, veggie dishes, chicken, pork, or just be drunk on its own as a happy hour glass.

$17

Now let’s revisit the 2022 Sacred Shores - $40 - 13%

My previous notes from my varietal side-by-side published on 9/4/25:

Unfortunately, the Sacred Shores had noticeable volatile acidity (VA). I did note that the VA blew off with some aeration, so I do plan to revisit this wine. It was one I purchased at a tasting after thoroughly enjoying it - and even previously recommending it here.

Aromas & Flavors: Nail polish remover, orchard fruits, citrus, minerality

Characteristics: Intense, high acidity, medium-bodied, medium finish

Personal notation: Revisit and decant

Vindicated. That’s the word for this one. I knew I loved this wine when I purchased it at a tasting and thankfully, it came back to life! I had previously Coravined the wine for the Albariño side-by-sides, and as noted above, it demonstrated some pretty noticeable volatile acidity (VA/aka nail polish remover in this case). I uncorked the wine this week and much to my relief, the VA had blown off entirely and the wine presented as I remembered it.

Aromas & Flavors: Intense aromas of flint, lemon, peach, and a stony minerality. On the palate - marked acidity, tart citrus notes with hints of peach and rocky minerals, with a medium, silky body, and long finish.

Characteristics: Intense, high acidity, medium-bodied, medium-plus finish.

Personal notation: It’s really hard to put this wine down. It was all I could do to return it to the fridge after one serving and save it for the next day, but I did, and I’m thankful for the extended evening of palate pleasure. If you’re an acid head - this is a positive trip. Is it varietally correct? It’s close, but it also definitely has that electricity that Oregon whites uniquely capture. And if you do grab a bottle and you note some VA on opening, give it a decant and a good amount of air before diving in.

In Box

You asked: What are Old and New World Wines?

I answer: It’s hard to escape references to the Old World and the New World when it comes to wine. And while there has been a movement to do away with the terminology owing to the confusion it generates as well as its inaccuracies, it’s still helpful to have an understanding of its original intended meanings.

In general, Old World and New World are terms used to describe not only a wine’s general region of origin, but also its style. Old World wines are typically in reference to those from European and Mediterranean regions with ancient winemaking traditions, whereas the New World refers to wines from countries whose wine regions were established more recently (relatively speaking). Historically these two categories have also referred to generalized wine styles with those of the Old World being more terroir-focused with wines described as higher in acidity, lower in alcohol, with fresh fruit flavors, and more earthy or mineral-driven notes. New World wines by contrast were described as typically having more pronounced fruit and oak flavors, fuller body, and higher alcohol.

Now, obviously, these are gross generalizations as there examples of either style in nearly every region making wine today, and both terroir and innovation are in-vogue industry-wide. But it can be a useful reference when describing your preferred wine style when ordering or shopping. It’s also useful to know that in general Old World wines are typically labeled by region as opposed to grape, which unless you know which grapes are grown in each region, can make it somewhat challenging when selecting a wine. For example, Chianti is from the Sangiovese grape, but labeled for its region of Chianti. Likewise, Chablis is Chardonnay from the Chablis region of Bourgogne. New World wines, by contrast, are typically labeled by grape, often featuring it prominently on the label with the region taking a backseat on the front or back label.

Wine speak takes a long time to change, so I dare say you’ll likely continue to see Old and New World references used. I don’t personally feel like they are “bad” categories, but I do see the confusion and misinformation they might cause in today’s modern wine world, and why it can be useful to adapt to different terminology and explanations. For now, however, as with anything, having a bit of education and background can be useful, so hopefully this has lent some insight into the context of these oft-cited descriptors.

In Production

I can now say a harvest has NOT passed without me getting in and getting dirty. Many thanks to Winemaker Erich Berg at my former cellar home of Ricochet Wine in McMinnville for reading last week’s issue and inviting me in for some action. This week I got to dip back into the bins to measure Brix, take the fermentation temps, and do some pigeage* on the 2025 Gamay from the Jubilee Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, the Pinot Noir from Holmes Gap Vineyard in the Van Duzer AVA, and the Mourvèdre from Southern Oregon. The Gamay was nearest to dry with a mix of both whole cluster and destemmed fermentations, and based on my first tastes, it is setting up to be a winner yet again. Ricochet also has a new white variety in the works likely to be bottled under a separate label - and let me tell you, I’m excited for it! Stay-tuned on that. Thanks again, Erich! There’s nothing I love more than working a harvest - even if only for a day or two these days. It’s a good reminder of the effort, passion, hours, dedication, talent, expertise, and physical exertion that go into a bottle of wine.

*Pigeage is the physical pushing down of the “cap” of grape skins and solids which forms over the fermenting juice on the top of a fermentation vessel. Also known as a “punch down,” this winemaking technique is used in red wine production to extract color, tannins, and flavor compounds. It also helps to manage fermentation temperatures by releasing heat trapped underneath the cap.

In the Know

The oldest and one of the most visited wineries in South America, Viña Tacama, is found in the Ica Valley. It was established in the 1540s by Francisco de Carabantes.

And as another fun fact, the Queirolo family of Intipalka, which is also one of Peru’s most visited wineries, operates a luxury hotel resort. Viñas Queirolo Hotel sits in the foothills of the Ica Valley surrounded by 200 acres of vineyards, where grapes and guests are said to be illuminated by the energy of “Inti.”

In the Hopper

First, thank you and welcome to this week’s new subscribers and supporters. You are truly appreciated. And feel free to spread the word if you enjoy reading. While I’m not one to get hung up on numbers and analytics, your support certainly helps fuel my fire. There are few things I love more than talking about and sharing wines - and the ways both wine and travel enrich life.

Now, what’s next? I’ve got two more issues planned ahead of November’s wine travel adventure and next week, we’re diving back into Italy and Sangiovese, but not from its most well-known regions.

In My Glass

2023 António Maçanita Fitapreta Ancestral

Portuguese wines are not my strong suit. When I open or sip one, I do tend to enjoy them, although I rarely remember them. This one, however, made it to my glass not once, but twice. It was so good, the next time I was at my local wine bar, rather than order something new as I typically do, I went back to this sumptuous, juicy white wine blend of an inexplicable amount of grapes. Seriously, there’s like six varieties in here, most of which are new to me. It’s a blend from two vineyards and includes Roupeiro, Rabo de Ovelha, Arinto, Tamarez, Alicante Branco, Antão Vaz, and Boal de Alicante grown in granite soils. The wine is primarily vinified and aged in stainless, but 10% sees oak, which along with the lees contact gives it a nice rounded, creamy texture. It’s citrus-driven with a touch of stone fruit, and loads of minerality for a clean, lengthy, and zesty pleasurable pour. This wine demonstrates why we all should pay more attention to Portugal. Vin-ho! $24

2023 Madrevite La Bisbetica

You know those moments, that lie between, where the best thing to do is to just let it all slip, and I’m going to take that moment with La Bisbetica rosato (or “The Shrew” - a nod to Shakespeare’s renowned comedy). From an 1150-foot vineyard site in the rolling hills of Umbria, I’ve enjoyed this rosé of Gamay del Trasimeno (aka Grenache) on more than one occasion and always with extreme pleasure. It’s a thirst quenching drop, worthy of ink here and most certainly of being poured out in the glass. It’s tangy, vibrant and full of fruit flavor - assertive and willful - and thankfully, joyfully, deliciously… Untamed. $24

2019 Quady North Syrah

If there is one name for wine I trust in Southern Oregon, it’s Quady North. (Incidentally, for bubbles it Maison Jussiaume.) And this Syrah is exactly why. It’s meaty, fruity, spicy, bold, and beautiful. I picked this one up after tasting it at the winery last fall and now I’m wishing I had more. Southern Oregon doesn’t get as much attention as the Willamette Valley, but there are some good folks growing good grapes and making great juice. If you’re curious about the region, I’d start here. They make a pretty killer Cab Franc too, just sayin’. Q it up. $75 (for the 2020)

2017 Guímaro Finca Capeliños Ribeira Sacra

You’ve likely heard me say (more than once), that Spain has my soul - and if you haven’t yet, this time won’t be the last. And this wine, well, it exudes its own soul. I’ve often likened Mencia to Cabernet Franc for its earthy, savory funk but of course, it also has an essence all its own. It’s rustic with crunchy red berries and tree fruits. It’s lean, denotes herbaceous undertones, minerality, and often has a savoriness that straddles raw and exotic. It can be somewhat dirty, but in a wanton kinda way, and it can also be refined, which was the case here. I’ve yet to be disappointed by the wines of Guímaro. They tend to capture, and tease with, that intangible something that lures and binds me to this Iberian land. Terrestrial. $70 (for the 2020)

In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

This week, I’m going to highlight a small village within the Trasimeno DOC (which I covered here): Castiglione del Lago. This small village, whose fortress dates back to 1247, juts into Lake Trasimeno as a small peninsula. The historic center of this charming medieval town is surrounded by the walls of this fortress, Rocca del Leone. The structure has five towers and a 100-foot high triangular keep. Once the central stronghold of the fortress, today it serves as a natural amphitheater for local performances and cultural events. The entire town can be traversed on foot in about 20 minutes or less, but you’ll find it just might take you a bit longer as you’ll undoubtedly be distracted by the numerous shops, gelaterias, delis, trattorias, and wine bars. The Lake also offers boating and a walkable shoreline.

It’s a quaint lakeside escape reminiscent of Midwestern “Main Street” beach towns along the Great Lakes, only this one happens to be medieval and distinctively Italian. It’s also located between Tuscany and Umbria, about halfway between Montepulciano and Perugia. If you’re visiting the region, it makes a great overnight destination for a night or two for couples, families, or friends. It would also be a nice place to hang your hat as a solo traveler for a few days respite. While I only made it to a few, I don’t think any of the village’s dining options will disappoint, but be sure not to miss a meal in town at the rustically vibey L’Acquario for delicious homemade pastas and local specialties including the area’s freshwater seafood, and of course a selection of local Trasimeno wines.

Winery of the Week

Madrevite was founded by Nicola Chiucchiurlotto in 2003, when he began to restore his family farm and his grandfather Zino’s vineyards from 1978. Today Madrevite covers 150 acres of land with 37 acres planted to vine. The remainder of the undulating property is planted to a small olive grove and natural woodlands. It is the embodiment of “green Umbria,” an unspoilt countryside. The Madrevite vineyards span three different hillsides as a “just-in-case” strategy. As hail can be problematic in the area, and as opposed to losing an entire crop planted on one vineyard site, they are spread across three. The plots range in elevation from 900 to 1150 feet asl. The soils are diverse with deposits of sand, calcareous rock, clay, marine sediments, tuff, limestone, marl, and galestro, and their health is a priority supported by maximizing biodiversity and eliminating the use of chemical herbicides and pesticides. As for grapes, you’ll find primarily Gamay del Trasimeno (aka Grenache), Trebbiano Spoletino, and Grechetto. There are also small plantings of Sangiovese, Syrah, and Montepulciano. Grenache, however, is the focus as it’s long been growing in the region, it is drought resistant, can be cultivated for higher yields and lower alcohol potential. It is also a suitable variety to sustain climate change. Harvests are only carried out by hand. This year the season began in mid-September and wrapped up just last week with Trebbiano as the final pick.

Madrevite offers nine labels of which I’ve now tried seven, focusing on Grenache and Trebbiano Spoletino. The winery overlooks the estate vineyards and it is here where spontaneous fermentations take place under temperature control. Winemaking is gentle and as minimal as possible with soft pressings and natural clarifications. The two aging rooms hold the original concrete tanks, large wooden casks, and French oak barriques. The wines of Madrevite, in my opinion, demonstrate high quality levels and notable balance. They are expressive, uncompromised, and delicious wines made for any day drinking - current and back vintages alike. But while they can age, they are ready to be enjoyed now - with friends, family, meals, picnics, or any time you just want to ensure a good time.

All technicalities aside, Madrevite has soul. It’s welcoming, unpretentious, and neighborly. The winery is open to everyone, hosts regular sunset picnics for families, couples, friends, visitors and locals, alike. It’s a place you can sit back and enjoy a taste of this special region, and feel a part of this authentic, untouched lakeside wine country. And Madrevite’s wines offer a unique and authentic take on the Umbrian terroir through wines that are made for every day. They are crowd pleasers, but with extra quality and deliciousness. In other words - a hard to beat QPR. Madrevite is, simply put, purity and pleasure.

Recommendations: I’m a big fan of the La Bisbetica rosato and the Opra. I also was seriously impressed by - and thoroughly enjoyed sipping - the Futura Metodo Ancestrale sparkling wine of Trebbiano Spoletino. And I gotta say, the partially carbonic C’osa is pretty dang delish with some Lasagna Bolognese.

Restaurant of the Week

On the recommendation of a reader/subscriber (thank you!), I recently made a reservation to dine at Ahimè in Bologna, Italy. A Michelin-guide restaurant, this isn’t your traditional trattoria. Ahimè translates to the woeful expression, “ah, me,” which you certainly will NOT feel after dining, but rather if you don’t make a reservation. This spot is becoming wildly popular, particularly among locals, and for good reason. Co-owned by two friends and food/hospitality industry veterans, Gian Marco Bucci and Lorenzo Costa, with award-winning Executive Chef Lorenzo Vecchia at the kitchen’s helm, Ahimè specializes in rotating, innovative, fresh recipes crafted from local ingredients. But rather than focus on pasta and meat, here you’ll find vegetables center stage. Both the produce and meat are sourced from local winemaker, biodynamic gardener and farmer, Federico Orsi, and the bread is handmade from a 10-year sourdough starter and local Emilian grains. Their premise: “a simple place for daily use.”

For my lunch experience, I chose a counter seat and the chef’s selection, a five-dish meal (served for flow rather than as courses) served from the kitchen, where from my vantage point I could witness all the expert preparations. The space is chic, minimalistic, and comfortable. Table seating is limited, but spacious, and counter spots are open both facing the kitchen and at the storefront window. Service began with the aforementioned homemade bread and creamy butter infused with fennel. One bite in, I knew I was going to be more than satisfied. The courses that followed included a fennel salad with coconut milk, grapes, amaranth and yuzu; maccheroncini with beetroot, goat milk, and herring caviar; puréed beans with eggplant, pesto, wild herbs, and fig leaves; and pork filet with ajo blanco and leeks. Everything was portioned and presented perfectly, and each dish was an explosion of flavors, remarkably complex, yet decidedly simple. I’ll also add, as someone that generally detests all things beet-related, I LOVED and devoured the beetroot maccheroncini. I don’t know how they did it, but I’m grateful I live by the rule: keep trying. As for the wines, the list focuses on natural, minimal intervention offerings. They do offer a wine pairing experience with the meal, but I opted to choose my own for which I selected a glass of Cherubini Riserva Subsidium Dosaggio Zero, a zero-dosage bubbly of Chard/Pinot Noir, from Lombardia, and a bottle of Filippo Manetti’s Vigne di San Lorenzo Campaglione, a Sangiovese from Romagna. Each paired beautifully.

In short, I’ll second my subscriber’s recommendation. Ahimè is a must in Bologna. It’s unpretentious, unexpected, refreshing, and damn delicious. I’ll also note the entire meal with wine and a double espresso only ran me $125, which I consider more than reasonable, a value in fact, for the quality, service, meal, and experience. And I realize not everyone can or will spend this on themselves for lunch, but consider that for two, it would still come in under $200 - something I find near impossible at a comparable level stateside.

*Pro-tip: When dining alone, I’ll still often opt for a bottle of wine versus selecting from the glass pour options. It typically, although there are exceptions, allows for more variety and options. And since, I’m not planning to drink an entire bottle on my own, I’ll ask to have it corked to go and save it for later, or as I did here, I’ll share it with the staff.

In the Moment

This past week I had the opportunity to visit Madrevite in person. Having enjoyed these wines for the past two years, it was a thrill to walk the vineyards and meet with owner, Nicola Chiucchiurlotto in person. Despite being in the midst of harvest, he spent a generous amount of his time walking through not only the story, the farming, the winemaking, and the culture, but he also demonstrated the essence of Madrevite: community. He wants his wines to be the ones reached for on a Tuesday night when your friends drop by, rather than stored away in a cellar (although you can do that too - read on for more on their ageability). He wants to offer uncompromised quality at price points most won’t think twice about, and he wants the wines enjoyed as he believes they are meant to be - in good company and shared with good food. It’s the Umbrian way. No pretensions, no special occasions, just time spent connecting and living. As such, Nicola makes wines that, while they can age, are meant to be opened and enjoyed as they are released. Here’s what he had to say about it In the Moment:

In the Room Where It Happened

Before I dive into the vertical tastings at Madrevite, let me start by briefly describing the difference between a wine that’s ready to drink and a wine that benefits from cellar aging. Generally speaking, wines that are ready to drink showcase softer tannic structure, open (not shy) aromas and flavors, and a solid balance between the alcohol, tannin, acidity, and fruit. Wines that benefit from age tend to have more aggressive or firm tannins, can be less expressive, or in some cases too expressive (ie. over-dominating barrel aromas and flavors), and instead of leaving your mouth watering might leave it puckered or dried out. Now, there are things you can do to make a “not ready” wine more approachable. For example, pairing wines with salty or fatty foods, decanting or aerating, or simply letting them age in the bottle (preferably on their sides, away from light, in a cool, humid environment), can help to bring the fruit flavors forward and soften tannins. And as for why some wines can be more or less approachable, a lot of it has to do with grape variety, but it can also be the result of climate, farming, and winemaking. I should also note, I’m speaking in generalities here, because personal preference always plays a role. For example, I’m happy to drink and enjoy the hell out of a current vintage Sagrantino on a 90-degree day mid-July, but I’m gunna guess I’m not in the majority there. It all goes back to what I’ll say on repeat: drink what you like (and how you like it).

Now about those Madrevite wines…

For our tasting, Nicola showcased two grapes, the Gamay del Trasimeno (Grenache) and the Trebbiano Spoletino, across four labels, a white (Il Reminore), rosato (La Bisbetica), and two reds (Opra and C’osa). Interestingly, the rosé and two reds each come from the Gamay del Trasimeno and represent the three separate harvests as determined by wine style. The oldest vintages presented were the 2011 Reminore and the 2013 Bisbetica. The Opra and C’osa are newer labels so the oldest vintages presented here were the 2019 and 2021, respectively.

We began with the La Bisbetica. This is actually my favorite of the labels. I do enjoy rosés, but I don’t often find them to be lastingly memorable - this one and Clos du Temple, which I gushed about in last year’s rosé guide, are the exceptions. But let’s be honest, I’m not going to drop +$100 on a rosé (let alone most wines) on the regular. La Bisbetica’s sub $25 is much more palatable and equally as memorable to me. For the vertical, we tasted the 2013, 2015, and the current release 2024. I had a strong preference for the 2024 - so juicy, tart, and lip-smackingly fresh - but I also very much enjoyed the 2015. It was smooth, balanced and although not as intense as its current counterpart, it had floral aromas and notes of tangerine laced with minerality. The 2013 in my opinion was past its prime, showing notes of oxidation and slightly off aromas owing to a lesser quality of cork (which has been changed out for better quality since). That said, it did demonstrate some hints of orange blossom and citrus zest on the palate and was a fascinating opportunity. It’s not often you see rosés past a few years old, let alone 12!

Next up was the Il Reminore, a 100-percent Trebbiano Spoletino. You may recall my feature on this variety a few weeks ago. It’s recently been gaining fashion in Umbria, but Madrevite has been working with it for decades. Now, I’m personally not the biggest fan of the variety and prefer the other OG native of Umbria, Grechetto. That said, as previously noted, I always “try.” And I have found several expressions I would open and enjoy. The variety is noted for florals, citrus, tropical fruits, stone fruits, minerals, smoke, almonds, and herbs. In my experience, I found many examples with yellow waxy fruits (sometimes vegetables), honeycomb, honeysuckle, and stone fruits. My personal preference is the fruity, mineral, and herb-driven expressions. I tend to shy away from strong floral aromas and flavors - not because they are wrong, they’re just not my preference. So that being said, the current release of Madrevite’s Il Reminore is more of a floral, yellow waxy fruit expression. It’s balanced, complex, and has a lengthy finish. In other words, it’s a well made wine - and one many of my colleagues thoroughly enjoyed. My preference went to the 2015. While the floral character certainly remained, notes of pineapple, peach, bright yellow fruits, and honey made my tongue want to dance. As for the 2011, it aged well, but had less bright fruits and more of an herbal quality. Overall, this tasting demonstrated that Trebbiano Spoletino has definite aging potential.

Now, onto the reds! Opra is 100-percent Gamay del Trasimeno (Grenache) fermented spontaneously with native yeasts. It spends 10 months in concrete tanks and an additional three months in bottle. For this label we tasted the 2019, 2021, and 2024 vintages and I loved them all. That said, the 2021 stood out as my winner. It had a graceful texture, red fruits - especially cherries, and was just a pure delight to drink. The 2019 had some leather and mineral notes, a bit of smoke (the good kind), and a finish of orange peel. My note here was “gorge.” As for the 2024, this one was the most intensely fruity on the nose, but was slightly restrained on the palate. The tannins are firm, but malleable. It’s certainly drinkable out of the gate, but best with some salty or meaty foods, whereas the 2021, well, that one I’m happy to pour in a glass, take my blanket out on the lawn and sip it overlooking Lake Chiusi without a care in the world. Overall, I’d say Nicola and the Madrevite cellar team nail this Grenache in terms of balance, quality, and his preferred style of drink now or age.

And finally, the C’osa (meaning “who is daring?”), which is also 100-percent Grenache but is partially whole cluster/carbonic maceration (where the fermentation occurs intracellularly within the grape berry versus as juice). The percentage of whole cluster/carbonic varies by vintage, but generally ranges between 20% to 30%. The finished wine is aged six months in cement tanks, followed by 12 months in large format (10hl) oak casks, and another six months in the bottle. We tasted the 2021, 2022, and 2023 of the C’osa and each vintage of this wine showcased bright red, candied fruits with silky tannins, zippy acids, and a lean mouthfeel. It’s complex in a fun, lively way and has a good deal of length. The vintages didn’t demonstrate much variation outside of a few differing fruit flavors, and tertiary notes have not set in yet. The 2023 was the most intense on the nose with a touch more floral character coming through than the others. As for my favorite, honestly, I forgot to note it. Oops! I was too busy sampling them with bites of homemade lasagna Bolognese with which they all paired incredibly. Easily one of the most sensorily jovial lunches I’ve enjoyed - and that am still craving. I’ll be curious to see how these continue to age, but for now, just slap a chill on any one of the C’osas and prepare for a light-hearted, bliss-laden experience.

In summation, this was a unique opportunity thanks to Taste the Difference: Quality wines from the heart of Europe, to experience the aging of wines from both a lesser known region and lesser known grape varieties. It’s not every day, or even occasionally, that you’ll see line ups like this. But what it did demonstrate to me was that these wines - of Gamay del Trasimeno and Trebbiano Spoletino - from the Trasimeno DOC, and Madrevite in particular, have aging potential. I’d say it’s going to be largely dependent on the vintage, but fun to play around with and experiment regardless. Personally, I don’t see any reason to age these - they go down way too easy as they are, but at these price points and if you’re curious, it’s not a bad idea to grab a few - some for now, some for later (if you can hold out).

In Production

This is the first harvest season in eight years that I haven’t touched a bunch, bin, or barrel. To say that it’s a tad bittersweet would be an understatement. Fortunately, I did get to catch some winemaking in action at Madrevite where they were harvesting the Gamay del Trasimeno as I walked through the vines. I later spied the destemmer in action on the crushpad (it was all I could do not to grab the rake and help out), and took in the aromas of fermentation as we walked through the cellar - where only gentle pumpovers (no punch downs) were taking place. By all accounts, the 2025 vintage in the region is shaping up to be a good one. Now the wait begins…

In Depth

This week, let’s dive into Gamay del Trasimeno - which as you’ve likely noted by now is actually Grenache with no relation to Gamay. Confusing for sure, which is why winemakers in the Trasimeno DOC have been pushing an official name change for the variety, a complex process that involves various regulatory agencies as well as international authorities. The process hangs on a lot of documentation, scientific evidence and analysis, and legal reviews so as to prevent consumer deception. But, rumor has it that the DOC has been successful and the grape will undergo an official name change in 2026.

Now, back to this Grenache. To throw it back to Shakespeare, Grenache by any other name is, well, it’s Alicante, Aragonés, Cannonau, Garnaccho Negro, Garnacha Negra, Garnacha Roja, Garnacha Tinta, Grenache, Tintilla, Toledana, Uva di Spagna, or as we have been discussing Gamay del Trasimeno to list a few. Specifically, Gamay del Trasimeno is a biotype* of Grenache, also found in Sardinia where its called Cannonau. It’s also known as Tai Rosso in Veneto and Bordò in Marche, Italy.

Grenache (or Garnacha) is widespread in southern France, but has its origins in Spain (or Sardinia - its open to debate). How it came to Lake Trasimeno isn’t entirely clear, but it has been documented in the region for over 400 years. The most popular story is that it arrived from Spain as a dowry for Eleonora Mendoza on her marriage to Duke Fulvio Alessandro della Corgna, the last Lord of Castiglione del Lago. Centuries later, more Grenache arrived in the form of Cannonau as Sardinian shepherds came inland. In other words, it’s lived in Trasimeno for a long time, taken root, and adapted to its terroir, thereby entrenching it as a local variety.

As for the grape’s characteristics, Grenache is a rich, red grape variety, vigorous in the vineyard and often grown as free-standing bush vines - although in Trasimeno you’ll find it trained to the traditional pergola or the more common vertical shoot positioning. The thin skinned, late ripening variety is resistant to wind and drought, making it well-suited to more arid climates. It’s long and deep roots are also adaptable and well-suited to water stress, as the variety thrives in hot, dry, well-drained soils, where it can develop concentrated flavors and aromas, especially with older vines. Grenache can be vinified in a variety of styles from the lean and fresh, to the more full-bodied style with deep flavors. In terms of its aromatic and flavor profile, Grenache can be spicy, sometimes candied, with red berry flavors and orange rind, and depending on where its grown it can also present distinctive minerality, herbaceousness, and sometimes even black pepper or licorice. It’s generally medium to full-bodied, with medium tannins and acidity. It can be made as rosé, still red, sparkling, and as a dessert style wine.

*A biotype is essentially a grape variety that has mutated and adapted to a new environment, but unlike a clone is not genetically identical to its parent variety. It’s still the same variety, and in the same family, it’s just taken on new biological and morphological characteristics. In other words, biotypes can have different traits ranging from varied berry size and sugar concentration, to differing leaf shape or color.

In the Know

The name “Trasimeno” is often linked to the fabled story of Prince Trasimeno who is said to have fallen in love with the nymph Agilla, but tragically perished in the lake that now bears his name. Fisherman to this day claim to hear Agilla’s cries of mourning when the summer winds blow across the lake.

In the Hopper

Italy, France, and Spain, oh my! What’s not in the hopper at this point? In fact, I have so much to share, I actually built out my editorial calendar through the end of the year. Normally, I’m not near that organized. I’ve also ambitiously laid out a plan for a few guides to bring your way before year’s end. We’ll see how the year plays out, but until then, and as always, thank you for reading, subscribing, supporting, and spreading the word. And if you have any questions, or there’s any topic you’d like covered, shoot me a message. Cheers!

And here are the new sips that hit my glass this week:

In My Glass

2023 Las Positas Vineyard Verdelho

You know I love my Spanish wines. In fact, my favorite white wine of 2024 was a Spanish Verdejo. So, I’m often curious how Iberian grapes perform around the world. I first happened upon Las Positas in California in 2023 on the heels of a trip to Spain, so the native varieties were fresh in my mind. And do you know what I discovered? Las Positas gets it right. Maybe it’s the Livermore vineyards or the deft hand of winemaker Brent Amos, or more likely its a combination thereof, but either way, this Verdelho (spelled as the Portuguese version of the grape) is a delight. It’s crisp, aromatically popping and brings a kaleidoscope of flavors to the mouth. I’m not opposed to opening a +$30 bottle for Taco Tuesday - especially one this good - but you can also hold out for the weekend and whip up something a bit more elaborate. The wine’s stone fruit, floral, tropical and subtle herbal flavors will complement a variety of cuisines and more than satisfy most palates. Que linda. $45 (for the 2024)

2023 Nysa Vineyard Marsanne

This Willamette Valley winery might be best known for its age-worthy Pinots, but hot dang they sure know what they’re doing with this white Rhône variety. It’s lush, luxe, satiny, and ever so pleasing. From the basalt-laden Columbia Gorge area, this brings all the electricity characteristic of PNW whites along with flavors of stone fruits, minerality, and a touch of nuttiness. If you’re as ready as I am for roasted squash of any and all the autumnal types, this should find its way to your glass. Pucker-up buttercup. $55

2018 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Clos Florentin

Alright, did I go a bit over the top with this one? Yes, I did. We only get one birthday a year though, and besides when I saw a Chave on the menu at a *somewhat* more digestible price point than is typical, I had to. You see, I had the opportunity to taste a Chave Hermitage many years back at a wine auction, and since that rainy Chicago afternoon, it has held a top spot on my GOAT list. Now Chave is best known for their wines from the Hermitage region of the Rhône, but the family did get its start in vineyards in Saint-Joseph back in the 15th century. This bottle is not from those first parcels, however, but rather a more recent vineyard acquisition of 90-year old vines in the valley near a river that had never seen a drop of chemical treatment. Given that, and that Jean-Louis rehabbed this new vineyard and didn’t release its wines as single-vineyard until he felt they were ready, I took a chance. And yes, it was 100-percent worth it. As for the wine, I knew based on the spark in the sommelier’s eye and the energy that he tried not to overly exude (and it wasn’t the price point - I had him comparing this to a few others more $$), this was going to be something. It was more herbaceous, herbal, spicy, and dark-fruited than it was meaty or animalistic. It was bold, but utterly approachable. Certainly distinguished. I felt only what I can describe as butterflies in my chest which shaped their way into bodywide goosebumps. Yeah, I was a bit smote. I’m not saying rush out and grab one - but I’m not not saying that either. Hedonistic. $260

Terra Pop Peach

From cru-level Syrah to wine laced popsicles, why not! Like I said, not every day is your birthday, and some days call for something light-hearted, portable, and tasty. I’ve tried canned wines, non-alc wines, interesting, multi-variety blended low-alc wines, and honestly none of them have made me stop to take notice. This did. Is it wine? Sort of. Is it a fruity snack? Kinda that too. Is it serious? Far from it. But is it seriously good? If you like a lightly spiked version of peach cobbler (with only two ingredients: peach puree and white wine), yeah it is. I mean, give me this over a hard seltzer any day of the week - or better yet, at any concert venue, beach, pool, or even as dessert. From the creative and innovative Terragena Wine, which I have followed along for years, this was not like anything I expected. You can eat it like a popsicle, drink it straight over ice, or mix it up in a fizzy cocktail. At around 8% abv and completely portable, it’s a fun alternative for those “no glass” venues. Peachy keen. $60 for 12-100ml servings

In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

While I’ve been highlighting Umbria a lot these past several months, my primary focus has been on its most well-known wine area, Montefalco DOC, and its white wine counterpart, Trebbiano Spoletino DOC. This week, however, I want to share another lesser-known, but equally interesting, region of Umbria designated in 1972: Colli del Trasimeno DOC.

Located to the east of Perugia, the appellation surrounds Lake Trasimeno, which has a moderating influence on the local climate. The region around the lake gets plentiful sun exposure with the added benefit of year-round temperature moderation and ventilation which helps to promote favorable balance in the grapes and resulting wines. The soils throughout Trasimeno are shaped by ancient volcanic activity, sediment deposits, and glaciers, resulting in a diverse geological range from calcareous, clay, marine sediments, and sandy soils with a distribution of stones and rocks to tuff, limestone, marl, and galestro. The region sits between 650 to 1,300 feet and sees roughly 27 to 35 inches of rain annually.

Colli del Trasimeno has around 20 wineries across the region growing a variety of grapes for whites, reds, rosés, sparkling, and dessert wines. The most planted grapes are Sangiovese and Trebbiano Toscano, but you’ll also find Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Ciliegiolo for the reds, and Grechetto, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino, and Welschriesling for the whites. The flagship grape of the region is Trasimeno Gamay, which is actually Grenache. I’ll have more to say about this soon.

Wineries of the Week - Chateau Dulaan, Yinchuan, Ningxia, China

Diving back into one of the newer and emerging wine regions: Yinchuan, Ningxia, China, this week, I want to introduce you to Chateau Dulaan, a regional leader for high-end, luxury wine tourism. Located in the Helan Mountains East Foothills, Chateau Dulann was opened in 2023 as an extensive wine “town,” combining culture and entertainment with wine tasting experiences, luxury stays, camping sites, and bike trails. The goal of the winery is to not only offer a taste of terroir through the wines, but to also foster tourism in this growing wine region.

My experience included a food and wine pairing followed by digestifs and fireworks overlooking the mountains. The dishes were served family style to encourage conversation and cultural exchange, and featured an array of cold and hot selections from beef shank, boiled shrimp with sweet & sour sauce, and goose liver, to Ningxia-style boiled chicken with pepper sauce, steamed scallops & glass noodles, and boiled lamb chops. The Chateau Dulaan wines paired with the meal included a bright and floral oak-aged 2023 Chardonnay, a powerful 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, and a deep and rich 2022 Marselan. As a Westerner, this was a very approachable and familiar way to ease into a region with which I had very little prior knowledge or understanding. The overall concept of cultural exchange by way of experiences, all while getting to learn about the wines, makes this a great stop on your Chinese wine adventures.

My recommendation: the 2022 Marselan

Azienda Agricola Bocale di Valentini, Montefalco, Italy

Bocale Valentini is a winery whose wines are on repeat in this house. We first visited this small, family-run winery during our “Summer of Sagrantino” in 2016. At the time, the Co-owner & Winemaker, Valentino Valentini was also the (youngest) Mayor of Montefalco, a post in which he served for 10 years. My kids, despite their young ages at the time, still remember the visit - it was the day they met the Mayor! Today, Mr. Valentini spends his time dedicated to the 14-acre vineyard with sweeping views of the Montefalco countryside and the 3,500 cases of wine he produces. He, his wife and extended family also host the tastings at the winery, a small farmhouse where his grandfather lived and farmed. Although only producing wines under the Bocale label for just over two decades, the Valentini family is deeply rooted for generations in the Montefalco region. It’s home, and the wines reflect it.

As for those vineyards, they are farmed with respect to the land without the use of synthetic chemicals or herbicides. Cover crops are grown between the vines and mechanical operations are limited to prevent erosion. The eco-friendly practices extend to the winery which is powered by solar panels. Here, fermentations are the result of indigenous yeasts, the wines are aged in French oak of various sizes, and they remain unfined and unfiltered to reflect the character of the native grape varieties. Bocale produces wines including Trebbiano Spoletino, Montefalco Rosso, Sagrantino, Sagrantino Passito, and Grappa di Sagrantino. And while many of these wines are available stateside, I strongly encourage a visit to the winery if you find yourself in the area. Having the unexpected opportunity to visit again this past summer, the experience was every bit as welcoming, engaging, and memorable as the day we “met the mayor!” And the wines, they will continue to fill my cellar and grace my glass. I plan to, in fact, survive on Sagrantino.

My recommendations: If you can get your hands on the 2012 Sagrantino, I reviewed it here last February. Otherwise, I’d also suggest the 2024 Trebbiano Spoletino, the 2010, 2015, 2020, and 2021 Sagrantinos (I gave the 2021 high-marks too in the A Montefalco blind tasting salon!).

*You can read my full 2021 vintage report on Montefalco here.

In the Know

The Ningxia wine region of China was the first to develop a classification system for its wineries. Officially launched in 2013, the system was inspired by the 1855 classification system in Bordeaux which ranked wineries based on reputation and price and subsequently classified them into five tiers - First through Fifth Growth (or Cru). Initially 10 vineyards/wineries in Ningxia were selected for their excellence and placed in one of five tiers, Class I through Class V, with Class I being equivalent to 1er Cru status. Evaluations occur every two years at which time wineries can retain their Class status, or either be promoted or demoted. Based on the latest information available, no winery has yet achieved Class I status, which begs the question: what is the classification criteria?

10 Classification Selection Criteria

1. The vineyard and winery must be located in the Eastern Foothills of the Helan Mountains. The grapes for the wine must be entirely from the region and handled from fermentation through bottling at the winery.

2. The main winery should have regional features and support tourism.

3. The National Standard on Wine Quality & Management are applied to the winery and its surroundings as well as health and personnel management.

4. Grapes must come from the winery’s own vineyards with vines at least five years of age. The data for the vines must be registered and available for random inspection by the regional department of viticulture.

5. Vineyards must meet specifications, be neat, and attractive. The vines must not have pests or harmful diseases and missing vines should not exceed 10% of plantings.

6. Each block must be planted to a single variety.

7. Grape yields should range from 500kg to 800kg at most per mu (or .165 acres).

8. The use of fertilizers and pesticides should be in accordance with local law.

9. The quality of wine should be consistent and reflect the typicity of wines from the region. The winery must exert control of its marketing channels and ensure stability in its markets. The brand must be representative and present in China and abroad. Quality is inspected regularly and at random.

10. There should be a stable team of professionals for grape growing, winemaking, tourist reception and sales promotion.

That may seem like a lot to digest, and it most certainly is rigorous. As of 2021, the number of wineries in each Class broke out as follows:

Class I - 0

Class II - 9

Class III - 15

Class IV - 18

Class V - 15

Classification systems, while part bureaucratic nightmare, can be advantageous to sales and marketing. They can contribute to consumer understanding of the region and its wineries, as well as establish confidence in not only the wines, but ultimately in their purchases. Much like Ningxia’s wine region overall, this system is still in its relative infancy and is likely subject to change as the industry continues to gain understanding of the terroir and varietal typicity, and as they establish their cultural identity in regard to viticulture and oenology.

In the Moment

Founded by Lynn Penner-Ash, the first woman to be a winemaker in Oregon in 1998, a visit to the iconic Penner-Ash Wine Cellars is an experience not to miss. After studying at UC Davis, Lynn began her winemaking career in the early 1980s at California’s Domaine Chandon. She spent eight years in California also working for Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and Chateau St. Jean before she was hired by the Willamette Valley’s Rex Hill Vineyards as the region’s first (paid) woman winemaker. Lynn worked her way up to President of Rex Hill before she left in 2002 to work full-time at the namesake winery she and her husband, Ron, began in 1998, Penner-Ash Wine Cellars. In 2005, Lynn and Ron designed and built this namesake estate winery overlooking the Valley which they grew to success before its sale to Jackson Family Wines in 2016. Lynn was a key player in selecting her successor, Kate Ayers, and establishing the core philosophies of this Willamette Valley mainstay. Today Kate remains at the winemaking helm, crafting single-vineyard wines from both the estate vineyard and select vineyards across the Willamette Valley with which they have worked with for decades.

I can’t believe it took me this long to get here! At this visit I joined an intimate Pavilion Tasting, a private, hosted tasting in the estate’s Pavilion building set among gardens overlooking the Valley. The Pavillion tasting features a flight of the current offerings each paired with a local seasonal bites (often straight out of the neighboring garden). The Pavilion can be reserved for intimate tastings or larger gatherings, and the open, organic modern space with its abundant windows and unlimited views is a stunning setting for either. As for the wines, while they are rightfully known for their Pinot Noir, their Viognier is also not to be missed.

In Box

You asked: Do I belong to any wine clubs?

I answer: Yes. I currently belong to one. My husband and I have generally lived by the one club at a time rule. At times, we’ve made exceptions, but in general this keeps us from accumulating too many wines from any one producer. Variety is key around here. And we’re far more interested in sharing and enjoying bottles than we are about collecting, although we do have some agers on hand (plus a random unintentional mass which may or may not age well). When we do opt to join a club, it’s usually because we found wines we particularly love (across an entire portfolio), or we found awesome wines as well as a unique tasting experience we want to revisit. As for my current wine club selected for its quality, deliciousness and approachable price points: Benza Vineyards (our third since our move to the PNW). And the first we ever joined - a long time ago - was less about the wines, and more because we had many a lingering afternoon visiting and wanted to support a local business: Prairie State Winery.

In the Hopper

I’ll be taking to the skies this week for a unique trip highlighting a few of Central Italy’s hidden gems for both wine and tourism. As someone that cut my proverbial wine teeth (and career) on New York and Michigan wines, I love an off-the-beaten wine trail story! I will be sharing the travels in the moment on the socials, but I promise to bring you the more in-depth and behind the scenes goodies upon my return - maybe even some Trasimeno Gamay! And as we wrap up the final weeks of 2025, we’ll be revisiting the Loire, Champagne, and Paris, taking a sip trip trip to South America, diving deep into another one of my favorite Italian wine regions, and closing out my 2025 Concours Mondial insights with a peak at what I believe is a country that is poised to become a bigger player on the world stage. Oh! And I’ll have a lot more of Spain coming your way as I visit several of my favorite regions and producers ahead of the holidays. How many weeks do we have left?! Phew!

When we returned to the states we dove into nearby Michigan wines, viticulture, took classes, more wine holidays, and began building our eclectic cellar. Wine eventually turned from hobby to career for me, but at home we were still consumers first - making and sharing discoveries together and with friends. I think if you were to ask either of us what we love most about wine we’d say the same thing: the unbelievable experiences and incredible people it has brought into our lives. It has opened us to a global community, welcomed us into new families, brought us to diverse tables, inspired many adventures, and had us falling in love again and again. And so it only seemed fitting that to celebrate 25 years, for all its many joys and adventures, and equally as many trials and tribulations, we center it yet again around wine. After much consideration, many conversations, and yes, a few glasses, we came to it: Champagne for celebration and Loire Valley for the love of Cabernet Franc. We split the trip into thirds with equal time in Paris, Champagne, and the Loire, and dedicated it to visiting our favorite producers as well as to making a few new discoveries. So this week, here’s a peak at a few of the places and pours that once again reminded us of not only the reasons we came to wine, but also how rich it has made the last 25 years.

First up, the first pours:

In My Glass

2021 Beatrice et Pascal Lambert Chinon 'Les Perruches'

After arriving in Paris, there was no question that our first bottle was going to be a Cabernet Franc. We snagged a patio seat at a buzzing wine bar ahead of dinner and busted out the deck of cards. And let me tell you, there’s nothing like sipping a juicy but dense red-fruited elixir from a shitty wine glass at a rickety, wooden folding table on cobblestones where you’re packed in so close you all share one body odor - of rain, smoke, and booze. A delicious and seductive wine, it’s also anything but fancy. It’s the perfect way to blend into the crowd - even when you’re the only ones not smoking. Buzzed. $60

Champagne Pierre Paillard 'Les Terres Roses' Bouzy Grand Cru Brut Rose XIX

Well, if we were going to start day one with Cab Franc, we were certainly going to start day two with Champagne, mind you technically at midnight of day one. A bougie night cap? Perhaps, but also one that’s absolutely worth it with those rich and intoxicating red fruit flavors laced with chalky minerality. This one is assertive, proud even, and an excellent third wheel for the long walk back to your arrondissement. Moveable feast. $80

2023 Domaine Oliveira Lecestre Petit Chablis

Although not as goosebump inducing as many a Chablis, this unoaked Chard makes for a crisp, clean, and refreshing aperitivo or by-the-glass pour with a light lunch. It’s citrus-laden with a steely minerality and delicate, pleasant finish. It would be the perfect side piece to a salade niçoise or a simple tartine, and for that full Parisian feel, throw on a scarf and pair it with some French café tunes. It’s all a matter of perspective. Mediterranean diet. $30

In the Spotlight

Wine Region of the Week

Named for a village along the south bank of the Loire River, the Saumur AOP extends from Gennes-Val-de-Loire to Montsoreau and from Saumur to Puy-Notre-Dame. It officially gained appellation status in 1936, but its first vineyards can be dated back to the 6th century with the region becoming an important wine trading center from the 12th century onwards. Saumur has around 5,700 acres of vineyards dedicated primarily to Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc and wines of all types: whites, rosés, reds, and bubbles. The region encompasses approximately 70 villages in Maine-et-Loire as well as a few in Vienne and Deux-Sèvres and is broken into 7 distinct appellations including the highly-regarded Saumur-Champigny for red wines from Cabernet Franc (and up to 15% Cabernet Sauvignon or Pineau d'Aunis). The other appellations include: Saumur Blanc, Saumur Rosé, Saumur Rouge, Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame, Coteaux-de-Saumur, and Saumur-Mousseux.

The climate in the Saumur sits between the maritime influence from the Atlantic coast and the more continental climate found further inland making it semi-oceanic. Westerly winds are blocked by the hilly terrain lending to warmer summers and milder winters. The region sees relatively little rainfall and thus less disease pressure in the vineyards than some of the more coastally influenced areas of the Loire. Top soils in Saumur include clay, alluvial sands, gravel, and flint which sit atop of the region’s renowned “tuffeau” soil, a porous, white to yellow calcareous rock. In the glass, still whites tend to showcase aromas of white flowers and fruits with assertive minerality and notable acidity, while the reds will lend aromas of fresh red fruits with earthy notes, and are generally graceful and expressive. There are more than 450 wine growers and estates in Saumur.

An afternoon in Saumur: After a winery or two in the morning, stop for a fresh, exotic and inventive lunch at Dragon Chouquette and a glass or two of local organic wine before walking to the historic castle of Saumur with rotating exhibitions and sweeping views. Finally, make your way back down to town and grab a seat in the square for people watching, playing cards, and kicking back with a glass of the house wine. You’ll find it’s easy to lose yourself for several blissful, casual hours.

Winery of the Week

I first came to know this week’s winery at my local wine bar who often features their wines by the glass. It was love at first sip and one of our two must-stops in Loire. Guiberteau (pronounced: Gee-bear-toe) is found in Saumur and produces white wines from Chenin Blanc and red wines from Cabernet Franc. Founded in the early 1900s by Clément Manguin, the domaine was eventually passed on to Clément’s son-in-law, Robert Guiberteau. Guiberteau was a talented winemaker and one of the founding members of the cave cooperative of Saumur. In 1954, Robert purchased several hectares on the hill of Brézé, including the cru-status Clos des Carmes. However, when Robert retired in 1976 none of his children wanted to work in wine, and the domaine was leased to other farmers. Fast forward a generation, and the family’s vineyards would again find themselves under Guiberteau guidance. In 1996, Robert’s grandson Romain Guiberteau took over management of the family’s vineyards and under the tutelage of Clos Rougeard’s Nady Foucalut, he made around 400 cases of red wines, which he sold to much success. He eventually began to take back his grapes from the cooperative to produce his own wines under the Domaine Guiberteau label. Today the domaine sits at 30 acres with 23 acres planted to vine, the majority of which are located in Brézé and range in age from a few to 80 years old. The vineyards do not see any synthetic products and have been certified organic since 2007. They are planted to cover crops between the rows with soils worked only underneath the vines. The wines are also made with minimal intervention. The fruit is 100% de-stemmed, all fermentations are kicked off with ambient yeast, malolactic is blocked on the whites and aging takes place in tanks, foudres, and barrels crafted by top cooperages. As a nod to family legacy, all of the red wines will begin in the Domaine’s original concrete tanks as a matter of tradition before moving to their respective aging vessels.

Recommended wines: All of them, but if I have to select a few, the 2023 "Les Chapaudaises” and the 2022 "Les Arboises" for the reds, and the 2023 Guiberteau "Le Bourg," and the "Clos de Guichaux" for the whites. Seriously though, all of them. If you see them, grab one or three. And if they happen to grace your btg list, it’s a no brainer.

Hotel of the Week

If you’re going to be wining in the Saumur and Chinon regions of the Loire Valley, I’d highly recommend the four-star, 37-room hotel Château de Rochecotte in Saint-Patrice. I referred to the stay as our Downton Abbey moment. Although not quite a palatial English estate, it was a vibe, and our “Grand Comfort Room” was practically palatial by European standards complete with a sitting area that opened to the gardens, a king-size bed, and a spacious bath with a vanity, a soaking tub and separate shower. The Château’s grounds are immaculately landscaped with trails throughout, where you’ll find romantic secluded nooks amongst the French gardens, a heated swimming pool and sun deck, a vine-laden terrace, wooded paths, and even a few friendly felines. The Chateau’s gourmet restaurant offers breakfast and dinner services with a delightful selection of local wines and dishes, or you can opt for a cocktail in the conservatory before heading out to dinner.

Chateau de Rochecotte is a picturesque respite with all the baroque architectural grandeur and splendor of another age, and at which the hospitality team will make you feel right at home. They were nothing short of welcoming, jovial, soft, generous, and kind. My only regret about our stay is that three nights were not nearly enough. So, if you go, plan to stay as long as you can to make the most of the peaceful, fairytale grounds before, between, and after your wine adventures - which should absolutely include a late night garden stroll with bubbles you had chilled in your room for the occasion. Crémant de Loire would be the most appropriate, but I won’t tell if it’s Champagne.

In Depth

Chenin Blanc is the emblematic white grape of the Loire known for producing a variety of wine styles from sparkling to dessert with some exquisite dry whites in between. It’s rich and diverse and can present from mineral-driven and Riesling-like, to more lush, textural and Chardonnay-like making it a challenge in blind tastings; although anything but challenging to drink (imo). While it’s not related to either of the aforementioned grapes, it showcases this wide breadth of aromas and flavors based on its terroir as well as the winemaking. In the vineyard, it is high yielding, buds early, and ripens late. It can be vinified in stainless or oak, in blends or with extended lees contact and, as mentioned, made in a range of styles. AOP wines for Chenin Blanc can be found in Anjou, Saumur, Vouvray, and Crémant de Loire. It’s planted heavily in its homeland of Loire Valley as well as South Africa. You’ll also find it growing throughout the United States, Canada, Argentina, Chile, New Zealand and Australia.

In the Room Where It Happened

Speaking of Chenin Blanc, after our return from the Loire we thought it would be fun to do a side-by-side comparison of some Chenins we had on hand from two other places it’s commonly grown - South Africa and the United States. Similar to the Albariño tasting I shared a few weeks ago, we also included two bottles in the line-up from the grape’s home base in Loire, specifically the Vouvray and Anjou appellations, to have as a baseline for varietal typicity. For our global selections, we opened two vintages of MAN Family Chenin Blanc from Cape Coast, South Africa, two vintages of Reyneke Chenin Blanc from Western Cape, South Africa, and one from Lange Twins in the Clarksburg AVA near Sacramento, California.

Chenin is the most planted grape variety in South Africa and its plantings nearly double that of those in France. At one point it was also more widely planted in California; although in recent years the acreage has decreased. In many wine circles, Chenin is often described as diluted outside of its French origins, owing largely to its over production in the vineyards. In the Loire, yields are generally limited to around 45 hectoliters per hectare, versus around 175 hectoliters per hectare in California for example. That said, both the Cape areas of South Africa and the Central Valley of California are typically well-regarded for the variety. Chenin in the Cape areas is noted for its acidity, productivity, and its resistance to disease and wind in the vineyards. In Clarksburg, which is at the north end of California’s Central Valley, it’s typically described for having distinctive melony and musky flavors.

Our tasting had some interesting results. I’d say that while there was varietal typicity across the board, the wines were distinctly unique to each region. As hinted at above, the examples from Loire were certainly more concentrated and complex. That said, they were also very different from each other. The Vouvray was more an off-dry style while the Anjou showed some oxidative character with nuttiness and flavors of baked apples and crème brûlée. The unique ways in which this variety can express itself even from within the same region are fascinating, and frankly rather delicious. As for the other examples, we rated the 2023 Chenins from the Cape Coast and Western Cape more highly than their 2024 counterparts with the 2023 MAN from the Cape Coast ranked highest and equal with the Vouvray. We also gave high marks to the Lange Twins Chenin from Clarksburg for its complexity and finish. Overall, these wines all received decent to high marks. I’d be happy to enjoy any one of them with a meal. (And I suspect I will!) As for our rankings:

1. 2023 Domaine Pichot, Vouvray, Loire Valley, France $20

2. 2023 Mann Family, Cape Coast, South Africa $10

3. 2022 Domaine Amirault “Les Quarterons,” Anjou, Loire, Valley, France $40

4. 2023 Lange Twins Merrill Vineyard, Clarksburg AVA, California $18

5. 2023 Reyneke “Vinehugger,” Western Cape, South Africa $16

6. 2024 Mann Family, Cape Coast, South Africa $10

7. 2024 Reyneke “Vinehugger,” Western Cape, South Africa $16

In the News

The Concours Mondial de Bruxelles held a competition in Moldova this month at which nearly 1,100 sparkling wines from 29 countries were blind-tasted by over 50 international judges. The results from the all sparkling wine competition placed Champagne atop the leaderboard with 11 Grand Gold Medals. Champagne’s Maison Tribaut-Schloesser’s “Authentique 2012” was also awarded the International Sparkling Wine Revelation trophy. Read the full announcement here.

In the Know

Curious to learn more about sparkling wines? I shared this guide earlier this year, but am making it available again here because honestly, there’s never a bad time to open bubbles!

Sparkling Guide

19.8MB ∙ PDF file

Download

Download

In the Hopper

Things are back in full-swing here for the next few months with wheels up in the next two weeks. But before that, we’re going to dive back into Montefalco reds as well as an unexpected South American wine region.

2019 Joseph Drouhin Meursault 1er Cru Charmes

Closed the “summer” out with a baller of a Chardonnay. Not only a Meursault, but a Drouhin 1er Cru. This is one of those goosebump inducing pours that had me swooning before I even brought the glass to my nose. As the wine hits the glass you’re immediately hit with aromas of fleshy orchard fruits and citrus laced with hazelnuts. It’s lush and creamy, but with an acidity that keeps it lip-smacking. This suitcase wine did not disappoint, Drouhin rarely does. We enjoyed a glass before dinner, one with dinner, and closed the evening out with another, toasting to the season to come. Tantric. $167 (pre-arrival of the 2020)

2024 Pure Mirabeau

I know rosé is a year-round quaffer, but I was not about to let a summer slip by without at least one pink beauty from Provence gracing my glass. And this was a classic: crisp, clean, tart, tangy, and refreshing under the hot sun while the smoker chugged along. It’s not one that you’re going to overthink, but it is one that will satisfy. So, yes, you can pour this autumn, winter or spring for a dose of summer energy, but for me there’s nothing quite like day drinking rosé on an 80-degree Sunday, and technically we’ve got one week of summer left to go. Present-tense. $20

2020 Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino

La Ragnaie. It’s a sommelier’s darling from Montalcino and while I was less than impressed with the 2019 (or maybe overly expectant), I wanted to see if the 2020 lived up to the hype. Phew! Thankfully, this one was much more to my liking and ready-to-drink out of the gate despite its youth. This Brunello was sassy and vibrant. Intensely fragrant, it gave off florals, red fruits, and spice and was perfectly paired with a savory flatbread. The tannins are firm but approachable and the fruity and herbaceous flavors are heightened by orange citrus and distinct minerality. Would I drink it again? You bet. Am I willing to give the producer another go? Not no! Try, try, try again. $80

In the Spotlight

Winery of the Week

Before I moved to Oregon, I knew relatively little about Oregon wines. I knew they were known for their Pinot Noir. I had also participated in a virtual Oregon Chardonnay tasting back when those were a thing - and they seriously surprised me, in the best of ways. Still, I truthfully only knew a handful of the big name producers - certainly not much about the 900+ others. But there was one name I did know, and I’m guessing many of you have heard of it as well - if not seen it on top tier restaurant lists: Evening Land. The Eola-Amity Hills winery and its Seven Springs Vineyard were thrust into the international spotlight with a combination of high scoring wines, French winemakers, and the involvement of sommelier, author, and vigneron Raj Parr, a well-known name in wine connoisseur circles with the release and popularity of the Somm movies. So, by the time I moved to Oregon, I knew the name. and I knew the wines. What I didn’t know was the winery’s extensive history and that a new team had taken the helm.

The Backstory

In the early 1980s, a young couple was gifted a piece of land by their parents as a wedding present. The young MacDonald family, unsure what to do with the land was encouraged by their neighbors (who happen to be the Casteel family of Bethel Heights Vineyard) to plant a vineyard. And so they did. They planted many acres of own-rooted Pinot Noir, Chenin Blanc, and even some of the first Gamay vines in Oregon. Then in the 1990s, Mark Vlossak of St. Innocent consulted with the MacDonalds and encouraged them to replant 14 rows of Pinot Noir to Chardonnay. The vineyard was gaining local notoriety for its quality, but in the early aughts the divorce of the MacDonalds split the vineyard into two - Anden Vineyard and Seven Springs Vineyard.

In 2005, Evening Land Vineyards, named for “Evening Land” in Homer’s Odyssey, was established by Hollywood producer Mark Tarlov (of Stephen King’s Christine fame). He brought in Dijon-educated Isabelle Meunier as winemaker and Burgundy's renowned Dominique Lafon as the consulting winemaker*. Evening Land was located on the Anden Vineyard and sourced fruit from the adjacent Seven Springs Vineyard (still under MacDonald family ownership). The first Evening Land wines were released in 2007, and the wines fast gained attention in 2011 after the 2009 Chardonnay was awarded 97-points by Wine Spectator, the highest points ever for an Oregon wine at the time. Unfortunately, Tarlov was not as great at business as he was at wine and in 2012 he was forced out of Evening Land by his investors.

In early 2014, Sashi Moorman and Raj Parr became minority investors in Evening Land, keeping both Meunier and Lafon on as winemakers. Then, in 2015, Wine Spectator gave its highest ever points for an Oregon wine, 98 points, this time to Evening Land for their La Source Pinot Noir. From here it was a meteoric rise for the Willamette Valley winery who began negotiations with the MacDonald family in 2021 to acquire Seven Springs Vineyard. Between 2014 and 2024, Evening Land saw many changes from multiple winemakers and the opening and closing of tasting rooms, to the acquisition of property and more changes to ownership, but one thing remained constant and true - the vineyards put out high quality fruit.

A New Era

Today, Evening Land Vineyards remains owned by Sashi Moorman and the estate’s original congruous vineyards have once again been reunited. Evening Land Vineyards now spans a 257-acre site in Eola-Amity Hills including 165 acres of stewarded forest and watershed, as well as 88 acres of biodynamically farmed vineyards all of which are tended by Netanya Welch, Evening Land’s Estate Viticulturist and Vineyard Manager who works closely with the new head winemaker, John Faulkner. Both Welch and Faulkner have long and reputable careers in the wine industry and their talents (and passion) are now on display at the newly opened and revamped tasting room in Eola-Amity Hills, which currently includes intimately curated tastings at the winery or glass/bottle service on the patio, overlooking the critically acclaimed vineyards. But, what I’m most excited about, is the soon-to-be offered Waterfall Experience, which I had the opportunity to preview last week.

Expected to take shape this month, the “waterfall experience” can either be a self-guided hike through the vineyards to the estate’s natural springs waterfall tucked in its 165-acres of woodland, or a guided tour which will culminate in a tasting at the base of the waterfall. While the estate tasting will remain on offer, and is certainly worth your time - these are fantastic wines after all - I really appreciated the opportunity to explore the vineyards. I’ve always believed that seeing, smelling, feeling, and hearing the place from which the grapes come, lends a new perspective to tasting the wines that result. It gives you a sense of geology, history, biology, people, and ultimately connects you personally with it all. And what’s more, despite the label’s fame and prestige, these aren’t intimidating, pretentious, or outrageously priced tasting experiences. They are, at their core, grounded, tangible, and rooted in a passion for good wines from good grapes, which is something wine lovers of any age, demographic, or experience level can appreciate - and for which they are hospitably welcomed to experience at Evening Land.

My recommendations: 2022 La Source Pinot Noir, 2022 Summum Pinot Noir and EVERY. SINGLE. CHARDONNAY. Evening Land Chardonnays, of which there are three ranging from $40 to $95, represent everything I love about Oregon Chardonnay - and specifically from Eola-Amity Hills Chardonnay.

Wine Region of the Week

We’ve covered the Languedoc region a lot this summer. As a refresher, it is France’s largest wine producing region and vineyard area, with roughly one-third of all French wines produced here. The region is situated along the Mediterranean coast running from the foothills of the Pyrenees in the south to Nimes and the banks of the Rhône in the north, and from the beaches of Montpellier in the east to the hills of Carcassonne in the west. Owing to its proximity to the Mediterranean Sea, the region is known for its typically hot, dry summers with very little rain between April and October. This combined with more than 320 days of sun year-round, lend to the ability of the grapes to fully ripen.

AOP Languedoc is home to more than 454 private and co-op wineries and is comprised of 23 individual appellations, 11 sub-regional appellations, five communale (village) appellations, four sweet wine appellations, and three sparkling wine appellations. This week, let’s delve into a few of the individual appellations I found to be the most compelling for red wines at this year’s four-day “Terroir and Millésime 2025,” which included the tasting of around 500 Languedoc wines from 15 of Languedoc’s appellations.

Pic Saint-Loup is the wettest and most northerly of the Languedoc sub-appellations, sitting between the mountains and the sea. It’s hilly and rugged with limestone dominant vineyards. It generally produces wines with aromatic freshness, firm, yet refined tannins, and flavors of charcuterie, earth, dark fruits and spices (northern Rhône-like). Ninety percent of the wines here are red and will include at least 50% Syrah with Grenache and Mourvèdre, and are often noted for their age-ability. Pic Saint-Loup features 83 independent wineries and three co-ops.

La Clape, Languedoc’s first village appellation, sits at the edge of Narbonne at the Mediterranean Sea and is noted for its free-draining limestone and sandy soils, mineral rich clay, and naturally growing garrigue (brush herbs such as thyme, sage, rosemary, and lavender), and of course the saline-laden marine air. The fruit-forward red wines here will feature Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, and are noted for a distinct saline character. There are 36 independent wineries.

Boutenac is another village appellation and also the town for which the region is named. About 20 miles from the Mediterranean, here you’ll find alluvial soils strewn with pebbles and silica, sandstone and shale in which the vines are forced to construct deep, strong root systems in search of water and nutrients. The region is hot, windy, and sees little rain. The vineyards are planted on slopes surrounded by garrigue and sheltered by pine covered ridges. Boutenac’s red wines are generally produced from Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre grapes and typically described as having a powerful, yet refined structure and aromas of spices and black fruits. Boutenac has 28 independent wineries.

Faugères, also a village appellation, lies in central Languedoc along the southern slopes a few miles inland from the Mediterranean coast. This unspoilt countryside boasts a warm, classically Mediterranean climate where the vines deeply root into the schist-laden soils, which lend to the notable mineral character of the wines. The red wines here are dominated by Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Lledoner Pelut, commonly showcasing the region’s garrigue with ample structure balanced by a coolness from the high-elevation woodlands. Faugères has 55 independent wineries.

La Livinière is a south-facing village appellation at in the foothills of they Pyrenees, and one fully dedicated to red wines. Gaining its own designation in 2024, the vineyards are spread across tiers rising to 1,300 feet in soils of limestone, schist, and sandstone. Many of the sites also sit on alluvial, stony terraces with sand and clay. Although Mediterranean, the cooling winds that sweep down from the plateau lend elegance to the notably powerful wines with aromas and flavors of garrigue, cooked red and dark fruits, and spices. La Livinière’s primary grapes include Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Carignan produced by 42 independent wineries.

Saint-Chinian, a sub-regional appellation, is located inland at the base of the Pyrenees where two rivers define its boundaries. Saint-Chinian is known for its uniquely divided soil types from two geological eras. In the northwest of the appellation, the layered schist and sandstone soils were created by tectonic upheavals in the Primary era. In the southeast, limestone, clay and marl dominate, stemming from ocean sediments in the Secondary and Tertiary eras. The wines here tend to take their shape based on the soil types of the vineyards. The main red grape varieties include Grenache, Lledoner Pelut, Mourvèdre, and Syrah. There are 92 independent wineries and eight co-ops. (There are also two designations within Saint-Chinian: Saint-Chinian Berlou and Saint-Chinian Roquebrun - noted for their higher-quality.)

In Context

I’ve visited the Languedoc region more than any other in France and each time for in-depth exploration and tasting, with this past summer’s experience being my most intensive yet. By tasting all 500+ wines available this year, I developed a better understanding of the region overall, as well as how the region was expressed differently by each vintage. And I took copious notes. So, as promised, I’m going to now dive into a brief analysis from this year’s tasting results, how they compared to my 2023 tasting results, as well as insights into the aforementioned sub-appellations and villages, and the most noteworthy vintages in my opinion.

In a brief analysis between my tasting notes from the 2023 Terroir and Millésime and the 2025 Terroir and Millésime, I found several consistencies. First, the 2022 vintage was not my favorite for reds across the Languedoc. I didn’t taste many in 2023 as they would have been very youthful reds, but of those I did taste, my marks were generally not high. The same can be said of this summer’s tasting. While I did find some 2022 wines I enjoyed, across the board they were inconsistent and lacking balance, many denoting strong tannic profiles. In short, when it comes to reds from 2022, the best are going to be more appellation and producer specific. Boutenac, Faugères, Saint-Chinian, and Cabardès had the most notable and high-scoring 2022s for me personally. That said, I am curious to see where the 2022 wines overall will go in time.

As for the other vintages, 2021 and 2020 have consistently rated highest for me with 2018 and 2017 also showing well across both tasting experiences. I noted across the Languedoc and its many AOPs that 2020 was a stand-out vintage and that it’s drinking very well right now. Jump on these if you see them.

The only two appellations that I highlighted as noteworthy in 2023 that I did not this year were Malepère and Cabardès. The Cabernet Franc blends in Malepère were particularly noteworthy to me in 2023, but I found many of them out of balance at the 2025 tasting. One exception was Domaine La Louviere whose wines, and playful labels, I very much enjoyed each year. And while Cabardès did have a decent amount of reds from the aforementioned 2022 vintage that I enjoyed, I found the wines tasted in 2023 - the majority of which were from 2020 or prior - showed more balance than at this year’s tasting. But honestly that’s getting nitpicky because I do generally enjoy the wines of this appellation.

Now, as for the red wines from the appellations highlighted in this week’s spotlight, these have consistently been among my favorites - both in 2023 and 2025. Here are a few of the raw notes from each:

Pic Saint-Loup - The 2023 vintage is showing very well. These wines were approachable and generally ready to drink now with freshness, berries and garrigue. Pleasurable overall. The 2022s are showing a lot of tannic structure, but with a decent depth of flavor. The 2021 vintage showcases a softer more tertiary side with dark fruits. Lovely. And the 2020s are beautifully balanced between fruits, leather, and herbs. Peak.

La Clape - Mostly subtle aromatics of florals, citrus and seaspray. Fresh, balanced and many showing gorgeous complexity.

Boutenac - A solid showing! Wines all demonstrated character and terroir. Loved the minerality, herbaceousness, acidity and overall balance. The 2023s showed freshness and sapidity. A strong appellation for the 2022 vintage. I was particularly smitten with Domaine de Fontsainte’s Le Clos Du Centurion 2022 - writing “winner,” not once, but twice.

Faugères - Really enjoyed the wines of this AOP and would like to taste more. These could easily be in my regular drinking rotation. Savory with a red and black fruits, good balance of earth and mineral notes, integrated and smooth tannins. Overall showed exceptionally well.

La Livinière - These wines show balance structure, finesse, minerality and a depth of flavors. The good were exceptionally good - particularly those from 2020 and the prior vintages. I did also enjoy the 2023s but found them a bit more tannic than Boutenac.

Saint-Chinian - The 2023s were in my wheelhouse with notable acidity bringing a softness to the tannins. These wines showcased darker fruits with a lot of earthy and mineral nuance. The 2022s, particularly those with more judicious use of oak showed a lovely contrast of sweet and savory flavors with firm, balanced structure. And the older vintages particularly shine in this appellation!

Languedoc has long been my favorite region for wine and tourism in France (outside of Champagne), and this trip reinforced my belief that it is one of the most exciting, dynamic, and diverse regions for high quality wines at price points that won’t break the bank. And while there are myriad producers and a plethora of wines from the region which can make shopping slightly overwhelming, I would suggest taking note of the regions mentioned above and start with wines - 2020s in particular - from the ones that sound most appealing to you, and then, have fun exploring from there.

In the Moment

I’ve mentioned here before about the importance of “spitting” or using the “dump bucket” not only as a wine professional (tasting 500+ wines over four days), but also when out wine tasting or attending tasting events. I usually travel with a solo cup stashed in my purse, but sometimes a winery drain or the dirt work just as well (where appropriate of course), and this week I was caught practicing what I preach in this candid video snapped at the aforementioned Evening Land:

To be completely honest, I did swallow a bit of the 2021 and 2017 Chardonnays though. That stuff is so dang good!

In the Hopper

This month took a bit of an unexpected turn, but things are slowly getting back on track. Looking ahead, I’ve got plenty yet to cover on this summer’s wine adventures, I’ll be dipping into some Southern Hemisphere wines, and as we move into fall, I’m going to be doing a series on one of my favorite Italian reds. And speaking of Italy, I’ll soon be on a plane again to my heart’s home. Stay-tuned!

In My Glass

2022 Bodegas Exopto Rioja Horizonte de Exopto

Floral, fruity, juicy and fun - atypical for what I usually think of when it comes to white Riojas (I generally associate these with the more savory and oxidative styles - which I also love). This was a refreshing surprise and a pleasure to find on a by-the-glass list at my local haunt. I always say, you know it was good if I willingly purchased it more than once. I went back to this beauty twice and then ordered it blindly for my husband as well (he didn’t guess it was Rioja either). Sneaky good. $20

2019 Umani Ronchi Pelago

Montepulciano (the grape, not to be confused with the region and its wines form Sangiovese) has long been a go-to as a “safe bet.” This version, although still a safe bet, kicks it up a notch on the quality scale. A blend of Montepulciano, Cab Sauv and Merlot, this bold but suave red is both fresh and savory. It’s a complex juxtaposition of dark berries with sweet spices, bitter notes of mocha and coffee, and savory herbs and minerality. It’s full-bodied enough for a big meal, but also bright enough to not bog you down. Carry-on. $60

2021 Milsetentayseis Tinto

From the vineyards of Milsetentayseis, set high in the Ribera del Duero, which upon visiting, breathed into my lungs, comes this remarkably drinkable Tinto Fino. A suitcase wine, this perfumed and ethereal Tempranillo, from just 85 small parcels of vines on clay and mica-rich soils, between 2,950 to 3,300 feet, lends a rustic finesse with its red berries, minerality, and grippy bit of power. Can it age? You bet. Does it need to? Nope. A straddler. $90

In the Spotlight

Winery of the Week

This week, let’s turn our attention to Tuscany and specifically to Tenuta Sette Ponti whose first vineyard, the “Vigna dell’Impero” Vineyard (Vineyard of the Empire) was planted in 1935 by Prince Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta and Viceroy of Ethiopia. During the 1950s, Architect Alberto Moretti Cuseri purchased the vineyard from the daughters of Prince Amedeo. Alberto then dedicated himself to viticulture, tending the Sangiovese and also planting Bordeaux varieties, all of which he was successfully selling until his son Antonio took the leadership role in the 1990s. Antonio decided it was time to use the family’s grapes for their own label. The first wine produced under the Tenuta Sette Ponti label was the Crognolo, made from the historic Sangiovese vines planted in 1935.

Today, the winery is led by Antonio and his sons, Amedeo and Alberto, and has since expanded to include properties in Maremma (Poggio al Luppo), Bolgheri (Orma), Sicily (Feudo Maccari), and Etna (Animaetnea). All of the family’s wines are of course reflective of their individual origins, but also consistently of above average quality, sensation, and expression. They are wines with elegance, luxuriousness, and memorability. Most notably, the Trebbiano Toscana and the Sangiovese from the original Vigna della Imparo vineyard were, to me, the most exquisite. My tasting notes for these two wines are laced with profanity, explanation points, and all caps. In short, not to be missed. These are bucket list wines.

Oh! And the Aola di Orma is a stellar example of my “boyfriend” in his distinguished Italian form. The 2022 bottling of this Cabernet Franc is one that will age with grace and distinctiveness.

Wine Region of the Week

Rías Baixas, found in northwestern Spain, actually resembles coastal Ireland more than the rest of Spain in terms of terrain. And while it is known as “Green Spain” owing to its significant ocean mists and the average of 67 inches of rainfall it gets per year, this Atlantic-influenced climate is also balanced by moderate temperatures and over 2,200 hours of sun. These factors combined with the predominantly granite-based soils make Rías Baixas the perfect place to grow and gently, but fully ripen, the region’s aromatic grapes that are characteristically high in natural acidity. Among those grapes is Albariño which accounts for 90% of vineyards in Rías Baixas, which have more than doubled since the late 1980s. But other grapes are officially permitted in the denomination as well, including Caiño Blanco, Loureira Blanca, Godello and Treixadura for whites and Mencia and Caiño Tinto among the reds.

In Depth

Since my trip to Montefalco in June, I’ve shared a lot of information about the central Italian region in Umbria including its terroir; the red grape variety for which it is best known, Sagrantino; my recommendations for that beautiful, bold red; and a few winery spotlights. What we have yet to touch on is the white grape variety seeing a serious resurgence in the region: Trebbiano Spoletino. Prior to this trip, I was not familiar with this variety. During my “summer of Sagrantino” in 2016, the white grape most in fashion in Montefalco was the crisp, quaffable Grechetto. While you will still find plenty of delicious Grechetto, many growers and producers in Montefalco today are banking hard on the future of its other native white variety, Trebbiano Spoletino.

Trebbiano Spoletino is a vigorous variety that is both largely disease and drought resistant. It is grown specifically in Umbria where it was deemed its own DOC in 2011, the Spoleto DOC. The harvest for this aromatic white grape ranges from late September to late October, sometimes even stretching into early November, but what’s particularly interesting and unique to this cultivar is that the vineyards planted in the lower elevation and more humid valley areas tend to ripen last, while the higher elevation sites ripen earliest. In general Trebbiano Spoletino is a rich, full-bodied white wine with notable acidity. It’s described by a variety of aromas and flavors which can include florals, citrus, tropical fruits, stone fruits, minerals, smoke, almonds, and herbs. Personally, I noted lots of yellow waxy fruits (sometimes vegetables), honeycomb, honeysuckle, and stone fruits on the examples I tasted. I also found them to be generally high in acidity, somewhat denoting a pithy bitterness, and with a particular viscosity. In other words, it’s a bit eclectic and certainly versatile as it can be produced as still, sparkling, or dessert wines.

Recommendations

If you’re curious about the aforementioned Trebbiano Spoletino, there are several expressions I would recommend seeking out - particularly those from Bocale, Saragano, Briziarelli, Scacciadiavoli, and Antonelli.

But if you really want to get geeky about it, then you need to know Colle Uncinano. Colle Uncinano, founded in 2005, has 50 acres of organically farmed vineyards and produces roughly 6,500 cases per year - of which half is Trebbiano Spoletino. In other words, it’s their thing. The vines are 16 years old and planted at 650 feet in soils of sand and clay. You’ll find various versions of Trebbiano Spoletino including pet-nat, Charmat method, and traditional method sparkling wines as well as a Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino Superiore. The Superiore is 100% Trebbiano Spoletino, directly pressed to stainless steel where it remains on fine lees for eight months. Colle Uncinano has in-person tastings as well as an agriturismo (with a pool!) and can offer vertical tastings of their Superiore which not only give you a sense of the grape, but of its aging potential. They are excited about this grape and their passion shows across their line.

And lastly, if you’re curious about Trebbiano Spoletino as an orange wine or about one of my favorite expressions, Benedetti & Grigi’s Macerato 73, is a must. I’m not generally an orange wine fan - hardly at all - but this concrete fermented Trebbiano Spoletino, which spent 20 days on the skins before being pressed and returned to the cement tank is noteworthy. For one, I chose it as my glass for lunch post-tasting. That says a lot because there was also a sparkling and Sagrantinos available! The first iteration of this wine for Benedetti & Grigi, its aromatic AF with initial notes of marmalade, orange blossom, and truffle. It’s dry, soft texturally with both rusticity and complexity. It evolves in the glass moving from those initial notes through more savory characteristics with orchard fruits and salinity. It instantly had me craving a picnic with roast chicken and panzanella. And frankly, I’m still in awe that an orange wine impressed me.

In Context

A few weeks ago, I shared my personal experiences and opinions on Chinese wines. You can read the full piece here, but for reference sake, here’s a brief synopsis:

“I personally found the wines of Ningxia (overall but not in their entirety) to lack identity and sense of self (and place). The majority of the wines feel to me as though they are trying to hit a particular mark, style, and sense of defined typicity. But based on an increasing number of more inspired samples I tasted, I also believe this is beginning to change and that the potential for wines from the region to find both their identity and a place on the world stage is high.”

In the last two years I’ve tasted over 50, maybe even close to 100, Chinese wines as a judge with Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, an international wine competition, founded in 1994. While I have not found them all commercially viable, or to my liking, I have noticed an increase in overall quality as they begin to understand their terroir and the varieties that work best. (And yes, I found a few that I very much enjoyed as well.) But while I trust my perception, it’s always nice to have such thoughts confirmed (or not) by tangible data. So, this week, I’m going to dive into the hard data and analysis compiled by the CMB over the past few years.

Let’s start first with the number of Chinese wines submitted to the CMB:

2022 - 339 Chinese wines submitted

2023 - 318 Chinese wines submitted

2024 - 338 Chinese wines submitted

2025 - 661 Chinese wines submitted

It’s important to note here that the CMB was held in Yinchuan, China in 2025, thus likely contributing to the influx of submissions. With that being the case, I compared the competition results from 2022 to 2025 based on the percentage of submitted Chinese wines receiving medals. In other words, the fact that 230 medals were awarded to Chinese wines in 2025, needs to account for the increased number of submissions; and so if we base it on a percentage of the Chinese wines submitted, that means 35% of the Chinese wines entered into the competition in 2025 received medals.

Now, what I was expecting to find, based on my personal experience and hypothesis, was a steady increase in the number of medals awarded. What I found, however, was less conclusive and even a bit ambiguous. As a percentage of the Chinese wines submitted, 2022 saw the highest number of awards with 42% of the entries from China receiving a medal. By comparison, 35% of wines submitted by China in 2025 did, and in 2023 and 2024, 40% of those entries took home awards. In other words, the Chinese wines are holding relatively steady. But, this doesn’t necessarily mean that the wines are not improving. It could mean that the Chinese wines submitted in 2022 were of higher quality, or it could reflect differences in the type/style of wines submitted, or it could even reflect the jury pool. The data here doesn’t outright reflect my assumption that the Chinese wines are improving, but I don’t think there is enough information or control factors in this analysis to make any real conclusions.

As for the types of medals awarded, in 2023 China took home its greatest number (both in total and by percentage) of Grand Golds, but took home a significantly higher number of both Golds in 2024 and Silvers in 2022. Again, I’m going to guess there are a lot of other factors at play here, but for fun, let’s take a look at the same set of data for a more established and renowned wine producing country: France.

We’ll again start with the number of wines submitted to the CMB:

2022 - 1645 French wines submitted

2023 - 1580 French wines submitted

2024 - 1354 French wines submitted

2025 - 1198 French wines submitted

Interestingly, here were see a steady decline in the number of French wine submissions, which isn’t surprising given that French wines have a fairly solid reputation worldwide. In fact, in giving a brief scan of the data, overall the wines increasing in submissions tend to come from countries whose wine regions are newly emerging or lesser known in the marketplace, which makes sense as they try to seek greater recognition and credibility. Regardless, let’s see what the data tells us about the number of awards for France. As for the percentage of French wines receiving medals between 2022 and 2025, the range is once again holding relatively steady between 26% and 31%. In the case of France vs. China, however, the percentage of French wines receiving awards was highest in 2025 compared to its lowest in 2023. The percentage of Grand Gold and Silver medals for wines submitted by France was also highest in 2025, with Golds awarded most in 2024, but unlike the results for China, there was no significant percentage change in any of the three medal categories for French wines, which suggests to me, at least anecdotally, that the quality range amongst Chinese wines is more significant than it is for French wines.

As for my personal rankings of the Chinese and French wines I judged at my table in 2024 and 2025, the data is more consistent with my perception that Chinese wines are indeed improving - and also widely ranging in quality. In 2024, on a 100-point scale, my average rating across the three flights of Chinese wines I tasted was 82.6, but across two flights in 2025 it was 84.8. Both my highest and lowest ranked flights of Chinese wines were in 2024 and had a 9-point spread between them, again, possibly a sign of the vast range in quality of the Chinese wines presented. The flights in 2025 were more consistent by my rankings. In comparison, the three flights of French wines I tasted in 2024 averaged a ranking of 86.6, which was basically unchanged at 86.7 across the two flights in 2025, which to me might demonstrate more consistency in quality by the French wines.

What can we draw from all of this? My hypothesis is somewhat ambiguous with the available CMB data, but it does make me want to delve further into the other variables - jury make-up as well as the styles/varieties, and regions of the wines submitted. And I’ll definitely be keeping my eye on the Chinese wine category as it plays out in future years, because my other hypothesis, as previously shared, is:

“I anticipate that as the industry matures, its sense of self will begin to take shape and that the wines will ultimately convey the land, the history, the culture, the climate, the soils, and the people stewarding the grapes from vine to bottle - and for that, I’m both eager and excited. It’s wine history in the making and I think Ningxia and its wines will prove to be an exciting addition to the world of wine.”

In the Room Where It Happened

Let’s talk about Albariño. It’s a gorgeous (in my opinion), aromatic white grape variety believed to be native to the Galicia region of Spain. It is thick-skinned and can be susceptible to mildew in the vineyard, so well-draining soils are preferred. Albariño tends to favor cool and intermediate climates which is why you’ll find around 13,500 acres planted throughout northwestern Spain. The variety is high in acidity, and can be produced as a light white wine or in a fuller style derived by oak or lees aging, which add to the texture and richness. The versions found in Rías Baixas also typically denote a saline marine character from the nearby Atlantic. And as a fun fact, Albariño was one of the first white Spanish varieties to be produced as a single-varietal wine. It’s also often listed by name versus its region on Spanish labels*.

But while Albariño does find its ancestral home in Spain, you will also find it growing around the world - and occasionally by different names, most commonly Alvarinho in Portugal. Do they all taste the same? Definitely not. Every grape growing region has its own unique climate, weather patterns, soils, elevations, clones, geographical influences, and winemakers that will each influence the overall aromas, flavors, and even structure of the wines. That said, most Albariño is dry, medium-bodied, and naturally high in acidity. Oak aging isn’t the norm, but it’s also not uncommon. And Albariño does have some general varietal typicity including aromas and flavors of citrus fruit (lemon, grapefruit, lime), stone fruit (peach, apricot, nectarine), and orchard fruit (apple, pear), with occasional subtle hints of honeysuckle, beeswax, pastry (from lees stirring), or salinity.

So, all that being said, I decided to put a few Albariños to the test last week. In my line-up I included two from Rías Baixas to establish typicity and sense of place. I then also opened bottles from California, Washington, Oregon, and Uruguay. Going in, I expected the wines from Uruguay and Oregon to be the most consistent with those from Spain given their cooler climates and marine influences. (I mean, Willamette Valley can sometimes even look a lot like Rías Baixas.) I guessed the wines from California and Washington would be the most different owing to the warmer climates. However, based on varietal typicity alone, what I found was slightly different.

The wine from Bodegas Garzón in Uruguay was the most similar in terms of typicity when compared to the examples from Rías Baixas, with the wines from Washington and California coming in respectively and closely thereafter. The two examples from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, however, showed much less varietal typicity. As for quality, the Fillaboa Albariño from Rías Baixas took the top spot, followed by a three-way tie between the Martín Códax from Rías Baixas, the C13 from Livermore Valley, California, and the Bodegas Garzón in Uruguay. The Wautoma Springs from Columbia Valley, Washington ranked just behind those with the Sacred Shores and Freja Cellars wines coming in lowest. Unfortunately, the Freja Cellars bottle showed significant oxidation and the Sacred Shores had noticeable volatile acidity (VA). I did note that the VA blew off with some aeration, so I do plan to revisit this wine. It was one I purchased at a tasting after thoroughly enjoying it - and even previously recommending it here. As for the breakdown, here you go:

2023 Fillaboa - $20 - 12.5% ABV

Aromas & Flavors: orchard fruits, citrus, salinity

Characteristics: Intense, high acidity, medium-bodied, medium finish

Personal notation: Zesty

2023 Martín Códax - $15 - 12% ABV

Aromas & Flavors: citrus (Meyer lemon), orchard fruits, kiwi, oyster shells, hints of herbaceousness

Characteristics: Intense, medium+ acidity, medium-bodied, long finish

Personal notation: Juicy

2021 C13 - $29 - 13.6% ABV

Aromas & Flavors: Yellow orchard fruits, citrus, minerality, hint of mint

Characteristics: Medium intensity, high acidity, medium-bodied, medium+ finish

Personal notation: Impressed

2022 Wautoma Springs - $15 - 12.5% ABV

Aromas & Flavors: Yellow orchard fruits, citrus, minerality

Characteristics: Medium intensity, medium acidity, medium-bodied, medium finish

Personal notation: Clean and simple

2024 Bodegas Garzón - $20 - 13% ABV

Aromas & Flavors: Citrus, orchard fruits, seashells, salinity, floral

Characteristics: Intense, high acidity, medium-bodied, medium finish

Personal notation: Most varietal typicity and tangy

2023 Freja Cellars - $26 - 13% ABV

Aromas & Flavors: Vanilla, butterscotch, bruised apples, mineral

Characteristics: Subtle, medium acidity, medium-bodied, long finish

Personal notation: Oxidized

2022 Sacred Shores - $40 - 13%

Aromas & Flavors: Nail polish remover, orchard fruits, citrus, minerality

Characteristics: Intense, high acidity, medium-bodied, medium finish

Personal notation: Revisit and decant

*In general, wines are named for their region of origin in “Old World” European countries. Examples include Rioja, Chinon, Bordeaux, Champagne, Chianti, etc. Conversely, they are typically named by variety in “New World” countries, for example: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, etc.

In Production

This week on Instagram, I’m launching a new series: Asked & Answered. As a tasting host and educator, I get a lot of questions about wines ranging from the basic to the uber technical. One thing I’ve noticed is that when people ask me a “basic” question, they nearly always start with, “I have a stupid question.” I always reply that there are no stupid questions. We don’t know what we don’t know, and curiosity and the courage to admit what we don’t know, should always be admired. But, I get it. I’ve been there and still find myself in that same situation - even in wine - when we think we should know something, and assume that everyone else does, we feel nervous and can be afraid to ask the question. So, in Asked & Answered I’m going to answer the questions I get asked most often, both in the classroom and tasting settings, because what many of us in the wine industry might think is common knowledge, in reality, is far more niche. Plus, I love answering wine questions. Seeing people have “ah-ha moments” or be inspired by wine fuels my own passion for it and also reminds me how I first came to wine - by being ceaselessly curious.

Here’s a sneak peak of some of the first questions: What is Blanc de Blancs? What is a cuvée? How long can you keep a wine after it’s opened? What is a GSM? How long can I save a sparkling wine? What is Meunier?

Have questions of your own? Shoot me a message. Because, there are no stupid questions.

In the Hopper

This coming week I’ll be diving into the Eola-Amity Hills AVA by visiting a winery that’s long been a favorite as well as attending a harvest dinner with a new-to-me winery. After that, it’s time to wrap up my Slow Wine entries for the 2026 Guide and start organizing my Substack and social content for the next few weeks in advance of my upcoming Italian adventures. And hey, maybe I can even take a day off…fingers crossed!