Busy season. Busy bees. Busy mind. And, there are a lot of words below, so let’s just get to it.
In My Glass
When I tell people that I like Oregon Chardonnay, Roserock’s is telling of why. It’s benchmark Eola Amity Hills to me: mineral driven, flinty, accentuated by notes of lemon curd, stone and orchard fruits, with a touch of hazelnut. That said, it’s that flinty, reductiveness alongside the electric acidity that gets me every time. It’s not the best in the Valley, but it’s classic, reasonably priced, gives me the feels, and quells a craving on random nights when I’m not willing to open the more expensive bottles. My wine collecting and drinking friend John would call this a “cellar defender.” Royal Guard. $42
2020 Brendan Stater-West Saumur Rouge “La Ripaille”
I’m just going to state the obvious, if my local wine bar has a Cab Franc I have not yet had, I will be ordering it, and chances are, you’ll be reading about it. This week’s pick (which I believe was the only one left in my affordability category that I had yet to try), was the most surprising yet. Coming from the Saumur region of the Loire, I expected the typical umami, barnyard-driven funk that drives me wild (and turns others off), but these aromatics were more reserved, and somewhat fresh. Similarly, the palate was also fresh and fruity with little to no “funk” evident. If I didn’t know this was Saumur, I would have guessed it was from the nearby region of Anjou where this flavor profile is more typical. That said, I thoroughly enjoyed it - especially after a decant as it’s quite structured. For a crunchy, red-fruited wine it demonstrated depth, character, and most certainly longevity, and it is one I can safely recommend to any red wine fan as an approachable, democratic Loire Cab Franc. Pleasingly populist. $49
2015 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino
After last week’s issue highlighting all things Brunello (plus a chat with Salvatore Ferragamo), I needed to open one - and I did. And, what’s more, I am thankful I did. (If nothing else, I influence myself - ha!) These were the aromas and flavors I had been craving for weeks. I had attempted to satisfy my longing for this sensory moment with a few other Italian reds in previous weeks, but was left wanting, even disappointed in one case. But now, I’m quite content (momentarily anyway). This Brunello, from the renowned Il Poggione winery in Montalcino, had me in Tuscany the moment the cork slid from the neck of the bottle. It was rich, evocative, bursting with verve, charisma, and exactly reminiscent of the romance you imagine seeing/experiencing/living in the countryside of a picturesque Italian village. Virtual Reality. $70
In the Spotlight
Winery of the Week
Prince Hill Vineyards, formerly Twomey, kicked off its rebranded image with a dinner of Dundee Hills neighbors - winemakers, growers, and actual neighbors, all longtime residents and stewards of this storied area. The evening was hosted by the Duncan Family who launched Twomey here in Oregon as a testament to the profound connection between land and wine, and the long-time friendship between Dick Erath and David Duncan, Proprietor and CEO of Twomey and the new Prince Hill Vineyards label. Twomey will retain its name for its California locations, but operate under the Prince Hill Vineyards label in the Willamette Valley.
Now, for those that don’t know of the late Dick Erath, or have heard the name but don’t know the story, Dick Erath was a pioneer of wine here in the Willamette Valley. He was an engineer-turned-viticulturist that after completing coursework at UC-Davis (major wine school) in 1968, relocated his family from California to a logger’s cabin on 49 acres in the Willamette Valley’s Chehalem Mountains. He then planted 23 varieties of grapes and found that the Pinot Noir flourished. By 1972, he had produced his first cases of wine, and the first official wine of the Dundee Hills. In 1976, he then broke ground on the first winery in the Dundee Hills and the rest is history - a successful many decades of an entire industry’s history.
Today his eponymous winery, Erath, is owned by Chateau St. Michelle, but Dick Erath’s original Prince Hill Vineyard and Dundee Hills’ home site were bought from St. Michelle by his California friends, the Duncan family, for its Twomey brand in 2017. Sitting at an elevation of nearly 800 feet with 360-degree views of the surrounding Dundee Hills AVA, Dick Erath bequeathed a beautiful property and legacy for the Duncan family to continue. The 36 acres of red volcanic Jory soils are planted to Pinot Noir and primarily clone 95. The winery offers three wines, a Dundee Hills Pinot Noir, a Willamette Valley Chardonnay, and the single-vineyard Prince Hill Pinot Noir, all made by Chris Burrough, who during his 20-year career in winemaking trained under both Dick Erath and Gary Horner (current winemaker at Erath).
The winery is open for tastings. Reservations are recommended, but not required, and if space allows, glasses are available for purchase and enjoyment at the winery. My advice: come for the views, enjoy the three classic Dundee Hills wines, and then savor the moment as you take in the enormity of not only Oregon’s wine history here, but also the community spirit that evolved around it - and remains to this day.
Wine Region of the Week
The Dundee Hills AVA is located in Oregon's Willamette Valley about 30 miles southwest of Portland. The region has a rich, long, and storied history dating back to the late 1960s when wine pioneers including David Lett of The Eyrie Vineyards, Dick Erath of Erath (and formerly of Knudsen Erath Winery), Cal and Julia Lee Knudsen of Knudsen Vineyards, and Bill Blosser and Susan Sokol of Sokol Blosser, planted the first Pinot Noir vines in the region. The area exploded in vineyards thereafter, becoming the mostly densely planted AVA within the overarching Willamette Valley.
The Dundee Hills is characterized as a cool, marine-influenced climate with a long, dry, and typically warm growing season. The winters here are mild and wet, with an average annual rainfall of around 30-45 inches. However, the predominantly Jory soils within the region, a volcanic soil rich in iron and clay, is suitably well-draining. The region is protected from harsh weather by both the Coast Range mountains to the west and the Chehalem Mountains to the north, with its own elevations ranging from 200 to just over 1,000 feet. Most vineyards in the Dundee Hills are planted on slopes between 400 and 800 feet, which helps moderate temperatures and provides air flow, reducing the risk of frost and disease.
Dundee Hills was recognized as an American Viticultural Area (AVA) in 2004, and today is planted to around 2,200 acres of grapes, nearly 70% of which is Pinot Noir, across approximately 100 vineyards.
P.S. My all-time favorite winery is in Dundee… but more on that soon.
In Production
Harvest 2024 in the Willamette Valley is underway and has kicked off with the grapes destined for sparkling wines, including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Meunier. You’ll also find some Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gamay, and Riesling destined for bubbles.
Grapes for sparkling wines are often harvested earlier to achieve higher acid, lower sugar (which determines the potential alcohol), and the delicate flavors typically desired for the style. But it’s generally not desirable to have a lack of, or unripe, flavors either. That’s why many winemakers begin to walk the vineyards and sample grapes frequently ahead of the harvest, not only for the chemical make-up and lab numbers, but also to use their senses to gauge feel and taste.
Hand harvesting is required in Champagne, but in Oregon both hand and machine harvesting are permitted. Hand harvesting is generally most desired for sparkling wines as it allows for more careful sorting of the fruit to avoid diseased clusters. It’s also more gentle and minimizes splitting and crushing, which can lead to oxidation or undesirable extraction of tannins and color. That said, machine harvest can be a cost savings for larger vineyards, it can be faster, and it can be done at night which keeps the grapes cooler.
And harvest is only the beginning of what can be a very long process before these sparkling wines end up in the glass. In fact, with the traditional method for making sparkling wines, it will be years before we get to pop those corks!
In the Moment
This past week I had the opportunity to check out a new program at The Allison Inn & Spa, Willamette Valley’s only full-service resort with 77 deluxe rooms and eight suites, located in Newberg, Oregon. Not only is this one of the most luxurious and centrally located vacation destinations in the Willamette Valley, the resort’s wine director, Elaine Heide is also combining her own touch of wine education with various wine and bite experiences for guests and visitors, such as fireside chats with winemakers, art walks on the property, and estate vineyard walks.
For my experience, I attended a group, golden-hour walk through the property’s own vineyards. We were able to sample the ripening grapes and taste the wines produced in previous years from those very vines. We were also joined by a special visitor, the current guest winemaker, Luisa Ponzi of Ponzi Vineyards (aka one of the OG family wineries in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, recently acquired by the renowned Champagne house, Bolligner). It’s from these on-site vineyards that The Allison Inn & Spa produces its own wine label, Austin Knoll wines. Every five years or so, a different local winemaker takes on the project to put their own stamp on the wines, which are only available at the hotel and through the hotel’s restaurant, Jory - a must if you’re looking for a fine dining experience in wine country. The food and wine service teams are top notch.
This week, our wine chat focused on the quickly approaching harvest as well as past vintages. A then and now experience. And it culminated in a pairing by Chef Jack Strong of steak tartare over thinly sliced brioche and squash from the hotel garden. The whole experience was as delicious as it was educational, and is available for both hotel guests and local visitors.
In Brief
Let’s quick chat about bees in the vineyards. You may, or may not know, but grape vines have both male and female parts close together that facilitate self-pollination. So, why are bees, and other pollinators, beneficial to vineyards and often a part of organic, sustainable, and biodynamic practices?
First and foremost, cover crops for the ever-advantageous biodiversity are greatly benefited by bees. Many vineyards make use of cover crops like clover or wildflowers between vine rows to improve soil health and prevent erosion. The bees pollinate the cover crops and other plants which contribute organic matter to the soil, enhancing the soil’s structure, water retention abilities, and overall nutrient content, which ultimately benefits vine growth and grape quality. This biodiversity also helps to foster a more balanced eco-system in the vineyard. When the population of more beneficial insects increases, it helps to control the pest population, and thereby reduces or eliminates the need for chemical interventions.
Additionally, bees can be beneficial indicators of a vineyard’s overall environmental health. Bees are sensitive to environmental changes (and the presence of pesticides or other pollutants), so a healthy bee population can indicate that the vineyard's ecosystem is well-balanced and that sustainable practices are being effectively employed.
In Context
This time of year many of us, especially those that have done a harvest, or attempted to eat outdoors, are all too familiar with yellow jackets, the not fuzzy bees. They are definitely pesky and often somewhat aggressive - especially when it comes to our food. However, they too are beneficial. Unfortunately, I’ve often heard people say that they don’t make a difference because they are not pollinators, but that’s a myth, or rather a half-truth. Yellow jackets, although it is not their main function, can contribute to pollination as they search for nectar. But without the fuzzy body of other types of bees, pollination is far less efficient and more of an accidental byproduct. That said, yellow jackets are a natural form of pest control and can help to eliminate harmful insects (like certain caterpillars and flies) from gardens and even vineyards. In other words, let them be.
In the Know
Want to help our beneficial pollinators? Here’s a few actions you can take at home:
Plant habitats for pollinators including window boxes, flower beds, gardens, and parkways using plants native, or non-invasive, to your area.
Plant in clusters making it easier for pollinators to find.
Diversify your plants for continuous bloom, from spring to fall.
Allow material from dead branches or logs to remain as nesting sites; reduce mulch to allow for ground-nesting bees to find a home; or install wood nesting blocks for wood-nesting pollinators.
Reduce or eliminate pesticides when and where possible.
We will definitely have to look at staying at The Allison on a future trip!
Brendan Stater-West is doing some excellent work in Saumur. One of the young guns in Brézé!