My days have been long and fulling this harvest season between both my writing and hosting tastings at Corollary Wines, but with views like this, there are no complaints. Be sure to set a reservation if you’re in the Willamette Valley. I said this before I was pouring these bubbles, and I’ll continue to say it, these are some of the best traditional method sparkling wines in the region.
While it’s mostly been non-stop days, I’ve snuck in a few hikes and wine-related wellness escapes too, including a “class and glass” night at Soter Vineyards, where we were guided through an hour-long yoga and meditation class followed by a lovely glass of wine by the fireplace.
Soter was founded by Tony and Michelle Soter in 1997. They converted the 240-acre property into a certified biodynamic farm and vineyard. Michelle Soter passed after a long and courageous battle with cancer in 2019, but her family and the Soter team continue to carry forth her legacy of holistic living and authenticity - with some beautiful wines to match.
I couldn’t think of a better place to relax and unwind with a session on the mat as the sun fell and stars emerged. Keep an eye on the events at this Willamette Valley gem, as well as for wine and wellness events organized and hosted by the talented and gracious Heather Ciprani.
In the meantime, here are a few of the wines I’ve tipped back recently - and coincidentally all from the 2019 vintage (which I’m struggling to believe was five years ago already!).
In My Glass
2019 Fattoria La Rivolta Coda di Volpe Sannio Taburno
Lesser known grape alert. Coda di Volpe is a mineral-driven, crisp white wine from the Campania region of Italy. With a few years of age on this bottle, the wine elicited more minerals and herbs, but was still showing off a bit of citrus and orchard fruits as well. It’s not an easy to find wine or grape variety, but well-worth your time if you do. I enjoyed this one over a few days with various dishes from pasta, to a cheesy veggie quiche. It’s not mind blowing, but it is dang satisfying and a nice transition season white wine. Vibey. $25
2019 Anthony Road Cabernet Franc
You might not be able to get the 2019 vintage anymore, but Anthony Road Cab Francs have rarely let me down. They are classic FLX with crunchy red fruits, a touch of bell pepper, graphite, and well-structured juiciness. It’s my style of CF to pair with spicy sushi rolls. Don’t knock it, til ya try it. And although I haven’t tasted the current vintages, I know they have been decent to pretty dang solid in this cool climate neck of the woods. Sushi night. $28
There’s no mistaken these grapes come from Walla Walla’s Rocks District. This Big Table Farm Syrah has some definite funk going on, which is both a good thing and fitting. This Oregon Syrah is actually made with grapes from the aptly named, Funk Estate Vineyard. The soils here are comprised of deep, well-draining basaltic alluvium and loess, which together with the basalt cobbles and high levels of iron, result in wines with savory notes of roasted meat, olive tapenade, and notable minerality. If you’re into the wines of northern Rhône, this is your jam. If you’re not sure, but are open to wines with a bit of funkadelic rhythm, pop a cork and tap out a beat. George Clinton. $75
In the Spotlight
Winery of the Week
Two Vintners is found both in the Warehouse District of Woodinville, Washington as well as The Vault, within the area’s newest winemaking district called Maltby. And although the Two Vintners label is relatively new, its sister winery, Covington Cellars was founded by Cindy & David Lawson as the 19th winery to open in Woodinville in 2002. They’ve since grown to include Two Vintners, in partnership with winemaker Morgan Lee. Lee oversees all wine production for both wineries and was recently named “Winemaker to Watch” by Seattle Magazine, but a few sips into his line up and you won’t need anyone to tell you that. His talent speaks through the wine. Between the two wineries Lee and the Lawsons are delivering a range of varieties from Riesling, Gewürtztraminer, and Grenache Blanc to Cabernet Franc, Cinsault, Syrah, and Merlot. They play with a lot of varieties, but not only are the wines great, you can tell they have fun making them.
Recommended wines: 2021 OG, 2021 Make Haste Cinsault, and 2020 Some Days Are Stones Syrah
Wine Region of the Week
Campania roughly translates to “happy land,” and with one look at these blue skies and water views along Italy’s Amalfi Coast, it’s easy to see why.
Situated along the western edge of southwest Italy, Naples is the capital and largest city; and although you may not think of Campania as being a wine region, there are in fact multiple designations and appellations as well as thousands of wineries. Campania is one of Italy’s oldest wine making regions, with production dating back to the 12th century BC. It was also once home to some of the most renowned wines of Italy and the Mediterranean.
Today Campania is home to four DOCGs including Aglianico del Taburno and Taurasi for red wines, and Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo for whites, as well as 15 DOCs and 10 IGPs. While you will find some of my favorite red wines derived from the Agilanico grape, white wines shine in this Mediterranean region. Campania boasts abundant sunshine, warm summers, and mild winters benefiting from higher inland elevations and constant breezes. The soils here are largely volcanic with sand, alluvial sediments, and porous limestone.
The amount of information and things to learn is extensive, so let’s focus on a few brief snapshots of some of the native grapes of Campania:
Fiano - A white grape which was saved from extinction (largely by Antonio Mastroberardino), Fiano can be deeply complex with pronounced acidity, medium body, and a range of flavors from florals and fruits to herbs, nuts and minerals.
Falanghina - This is Campania’s most widely planted white grape which produces distinctive wines ranging from simple to complex, and again marked by notable acidity and stone/tropical fruit flavors.
Greco di Tufo - The grape here is Greco, and the Greco di Tufo DOCG is considered the ultimate expression of this mineral driven white wine. Here you can expect a solid structure, elevated acidity, and a range of complex fruit, nut, and mineral flavors.
Aglianico - the king of Campania’s red grapes and thought to be the oldest native variety in Italy, this red grape can produce powerful wines! These full-bodied wines are noted for their complexity and ability to age. With savory flavors ranging from red florals and fruits to cured meats and leather, you can again expect some popping acidity.
In Production
I know I said I was done in wine production, but if someone asks if I want to foot stomp, punch down (do pigéage), or squeegee a crush pad, I can’t say no. I love this stuff - and have since my first harvest in 2018.
As for what my (sanitized) legs are doing in the wine, these whole cluster white grapes (Marsanne , Roussanne, Viognier at Ricochet Wine) were foot stomped prior to pressing. It’s gentle, helps to retain phenolics, and as the feet break apart the berries and the juice comes into contact with the grape skin, (that is naturally covered in yeast) fermentation is encouraged.
There can also be foot-stomping involved to break up the cap that forms when making red wine. During the fermentation process, the skins of the grapes rise to the top forming a “cap” with the juice below. It’s important to break the cap to release heat and carbon dioxide, both created by active fermentations, to keep the cap wet, as well as extract tannins and color from the skins. Breaking the cap can be done by pumping wine from the bottom of the vessel over the top of the cap (a pump over), or by punching down the cap with a punch down tool, or even feet (punch down).
In the Hopper
Travel season is about to kick-off, starting with a personal trip for my birthday - on which there will be plenty of good eats, wine, and new discoveries. And then it’s back to the old world. Stay-tuned as that next adventure is going to be very heavily wine and vine focused.